Trains in Transylvania

[burgundy]

The following few posts will document a recent tour with a well known railway travel company to Transylvania. For the geographically challenged, Transylvania really does exist and forms the north western part of Romania. It is largely cut off from the main body of the country by the Carpathian mountains, which run down the eastern and southern sides, and, until the end of the First World War, it formed part of Hungary, so that the railway legacy of Transylvania is largely Hungarian. Before WW1, the area had a diverse racial/religious/linguistic mixture, with Romanian, Hungarian, German and Jewish communities intermixed. This diversity was brutally simplified during and after WW2, so that, now, there is a small, but influential Hungarian community in an otherwise largely Romanian population.
It is worth pointing out that, although the following posts will concentrate largely on the railway aspects of the trip, there was a lot more to see than trains and, by staying for a number of nights at “homestays” (something like bed and breakfasts), we enjoyed a good deal of local colour – and some excellent food!
Day 1 Sibiu
As one of the Seven Towns (Siebenburgen), Sibiu – or Hermannstadt or Nagyszeben – has a long history as a Saxon city. I confess that we played truant from the organised tour to the workshops at Criscior, where an enterprising Austrian is now renovating narrow gauge equipment in a workshop that demonstrates many of the characteristics of the communist era. Connoisseurs of historic engineering practice were most enthusiastic about the visit.
We wandered the historic central area with its pedestrian zone, sat in the sun eating pizza, visited the market and then found the “railway museum”. I use inverted commas, since this was one of those sad collections of derelict locos that will need a considerable amount of TLC (and money) to do justice to the quality of the exhibits. They are stored in a part of the loco depot and are accessed by locals simply by walking across the tracks from the station.

As newly arrived foreigners, we found a bridge across the railway, walked down a suburban street and, at number 26, dived down an alleyway that led to the entrance of the shed.

Displaying locos around the roads of a turntable makes it almost impossible to take sideview photos, although this ancient looking 0-6-0 was accessible and rather appealed to me. It was also one of the examples with the least tree growth sprouting through it. There are, of course, no information signs around (in any language) but I figured that there was enough data on the cabside for google to help out later.

If anyone has further information, I should be interested to hear.

Best wishes

Eric

[EddieB]

These make for an interesting series of reports, Eric.

 

I had heard that the museum at Sibiu was starting to look more like a dump, badly overgrown and sad to see that the collection isn't being cared for adequately.  Were you asked to pay an admission charge?  Time was when it did operate as a museum, well looked after and lawns and bushes kept in trim.  I have a list and details of the locos, for instance no. 1493 was built by Henschel in 1894 (although there's some confusion whether it's really CFR 1493/bn 3820, or CFR 1497/bn 3824).

[Allegheny1600]

Hi Eric,

Well, that does look an interesting place even if rather neglected.

The 1493 appears to have a 'Spanish' look about her but as Eddie says, built by Henschel so Germanic really.

How did you find the language? Or do the locals speak English? (I've met a few Romanians in Greece and they spoke pretty good English!)

I look forward to hearing about the rst of the trip, please.

Cheers,

John E.

[EddieB]

How did you find the language? Or do the locals speak English? (I've met a few Romanians in Greece and they spoke pretty good English!)

 

Funnily enough, I found that my long-forgotten school Latin actually came in quite useful.  They have adopted some modern terms from other European languages - for instance the depot at Dej is called "Triaj", not a million miles from the French for marshalling yard.

 

As Eric says, there's a significant Hungarian community in Transsylvania, but that's not a great deal of help for communicating or understanding.

 

Edit:

Checking Roumanian sources (with the aid of my schoolboy Latin) suggests that "1493" is actually 1497, having been paired with the tender from 1493 when first put on display in Bucuresti in 1971.  Note the four-wheel tenders fitted to these locos and the Allan link motion.

[burgundy]

John, Eddie

Thanks for your respective comments and information.

There was no entry fee for the "museum" and in fact nobody gave us a second glance. It looks as though the place has been like that for some time.

In the major cities, English was quite widely spoken - particularly in restaurants; you should not starve. Our tour also visited some fairly remote areas where our Romanian tour guide fully earned her keep. As Eddie says, some knoweldge of any of the Latin based languages will allow you to have a guess at written signs. 

Day 2 Sibiu
Plan A had been to travel on the Sibiu tram network, but between printing of the brochure and our arrival, the tramline had been ripped up. Progress is coming quickly in Romania.
Plan B involved a visit to a former narrow gauge line that had run from Sibiu to Agnita and eventually to Sighisoara (about 100kms). A section of the line is being rebuilt between Cornatel and Hosman although there is a long way to go. We were treated to a run on a Trabant powered drasine, hauling a pair of “staff transport wagons”. Fortunately, the weather was good. At the end of the line – a gap where a bridge needs to be rebuilt – we simply wandered back across a field to rejoin our minibus, leaving our traincrew to push the wagons back to the starting point.

We finished the day by taking a train to Brasov, which was our next stop.

 

Best wishes

Eric

[burgundy]

Day 3 Brasov (or Kronstadt or Brasso)
Covasna is the site of a rather unusual forestry line. It started in the town with a short roadside section, climbed up the hillside on a rope worked inclined plane and then branched out into the forest from a sawmill at Comandau. The inclined plane is now derelict, but the line at the bottom is still operational and the section at the top from Comandau into the forest also runs trains; the gap in between is filled by a half hour journey down a tortuous dirt road. Rolling stock is provided by the operation based at Criscior.
On our arrival, some timber bolsters were being rather forcefully shunted, as their brakes had seized on, following removal of some of the bolts.

However, our train was assembled and we set off up the line. Refuelling took place with the aid of a pump by the river and a chain saw to add to the log supply.

Track on forestry lines is no better than it should be, with the odd stream flowing through the sleepers – rather than through the traditional culvert.

(Apologies but these two shots in portrait seem to have rotated themselves to landscape; can anyone suggest how they can be restored please?)
On return to Comandau, we loaded onto the minibus while the loco was run onto a low loader. We then proceeded in convoy down the hill with the loco, in steam, together with the driver, on the back of the low loader.

Bi-modal transport

The unloading process simply reversed the loading procedure and the train then formed up again for the run along the lower section of line into the spa resort of Covasna.

Best wishes

Eric

[Poor Old Bruce]

Funnily enough, I found that my long-forgotten school Latin actually came in quite useful.  They have adopted some modern terms from other European languages - for instance the depot at Dej is called "Triaj", not a million miles from the French for marshalling yard.

 

As Eric says, there's a significant Hungarian community in Transsylvania, but that's not a great deal of help for communicating or understanding.

 

Edit:

Checking Roumanian sources (with the aid of my schoolboy Latin) suggests that "1493" is actually 1497, having been paired with the tender from 1493 when first put on display in Bucuresti in 1971.  Note the four-wheel tenders fitted to these locos and the Allan link motion.

 

I went to Romania in 1971 with an Ian Allan party and managed to get some photos of 1497 (Henschel 3824/1894) in Bucuresti. It was on display at the side of the road past the shed as some of us went for a tram ride. It took about two hours to get permission to take the Photos IIRC - we had to be careful as Romania was different in those days and one of our party had the pleasure of being 'entertained' by the Stasi for doing something they regarded as naughty.

[EddieB]

The inclined plane was in operation when I visited in 1998, complete with equine locoshed at the base.

 

 

There was a paper mill nearby, served by its own standard gauge system, with one active and a couple of derelict steam locos.  Despite managing to knock over a vase of flowers with my camera bag and spilling water in the office, I was given permission to take photos around the site.  (I slightly redeemed myself by catching a runaway horse and cart near the lower section of the incline.)

 

As far as the two levels connected by the inclined plane, there was supposed to be steam on both at the time of my visit.  Certainly a locomotive was active at the bottom level, but sadly nothing at the top level - all locked away inside the shed.  As Eric says, it is a winding, looping road through the woods that connects the two.  On the way up a grey shape loped across the track in front of the car.  A wolf?  They are present in those hills, after all.  I couldn't be sure as it disappeared rapidly into the steeply sloping roadside vegetation.  Coming back, there it was again, heading off into the forest.  This time, I stopped the car, got out and surveyed the steep undergrowth with binoculars - only for my gaze to be returned by some strange grey-haired terrier sort of dog.  Shame, if I hadn't investigated it I'd still be telling about the wolf I'd seen on the way up to Comandau...

[burgundy]

Eddie

A very nice photo - but sadly the forest has taken over and all that you can see now is a thin groove through the trees and the sign board indicating where the incline used to be. However, on the plus side, there is a steam loco up at Comandau, with a tourist service operating. And there are not many places where you can watch a loco being loaded on and off a low loader as shown in the video clips.

Day 4 – Peles
Our visit to Peles from Brassov was by train on the regular CFR service. The line crosses one of the passes through the Carpathians, leaving Transylvania to enter Moldavia (one of the original provinces of Romania). Although a main line, the train never exceeded a gentlemanly canter, often with lineside growth brushing the sides of the carriages. Fares were very cheap and it appears that Romanian railways are still struggling to provide low cost mass transport, without regard to the cost of the service. The result is relatively low speeds, poor maintenance and major issues with servicability of stock. Having said that, the train was punctual and comfortable – if unhurried.
The main attraction at Peles is the palace, dating from the late Victorian period and well worth a visit. While waiting at the station for our return train, these two exhibits caught my attention. No doubt someone can identify the car and I think the loco is a P8.

Best wishes

Eric

 

[runs as required]

Skoda?

I agree its a P8 loco. My Liliput H0 one from 1962 still runs well, a momento of our trip on the Simplon Orient Express through the Balkans.

Thank you for some fascinating pictures.

 

dhig

[EddieB]

Yes, it's a genuine Prussian P8 - if the plate is correct, it was built by Vulcan (Stettin) 2352/1907 for the KPEV as KBG 2407 (i.e. Königsberg).  Although CFR had many more locomotives built locally by Malaxa and Resita to the same design, the first 130 (approx) of the class were German-built.  As I understand it, the loco has recently been put on display after being stored at Cluj-Napolca works.  Seven of the same type have made their way West to Austria, Germany and Belgium.

[burgundy]

Days 5 and 6 were taken up primarily exploring Saxon villages and then Sigisoara, but the onward journey was broken with a further taster of CFR and its approach to the rural railway. Our destination was Praid (or Parajd since the majority of the population is Hungarian, or Salzberg in German which describes the substantial salt mine there). We left our minibus at Balauserie/Balavasar, which is a quiet wayside station.

There was a railcar standing in the siding and 3 or possibly 4 members of staff awaiting events. The arrival of a full dozen passengers seemed to be a bit of a surprise and I suspect that our travel company’s regular visits must make a measurable difference to the passenger numbers on the line.

Punctually, our train arrived through the undergrowth and we set off for Praid.

I am not sure that anyone else joined or left the train before Praid, as our stops were minimal and the station buildings gave the impression of being derelict. At two major roads, the train stopped so that the crew could operate the barriers.

Best wishes

Eric

[burgundy]

Day 7 – Sovata to Campu Cetatii
Praid station was formerly shared between the standard gauge and a narrow gauge line, which formed part of the network radiating from Targu Mures. Part of the latter is now privately operated as a tourist line with the owner and his wife managing proceedings. As with model railways, rule 1 applies – if it is your train set, you can make the rules. In this case, it involves a lady with a megaphone encouraging you to wave to passers-by and to clap whenever the loco whistles. If this causes apoplexy among “serious” railway enthusiasts, it goes down pretty well with the families that make up the majority of the paying customers. Get over it, because there is a lot of whistling at every road crossing.

Alternative transport was available.

The loco was prepared in a secured compound that was adjacent to the house and backed down onto the train. Up the line, we were treated to a lively run past – with lots of whistling.

Best wishes

Eric

[tractionman]

Great to see these pics, thanks.

 

I was in Sibiu a few years ago and posted some pictures then:

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/46503-loco-heaven-romania-and-hungary-trip-sept-2011/

 

Good to see not too much has changed at the depot!

 

cheers,

 

Keith

[EddieB]

Keep up the good work, Eric!

 

A little bit of Poland at Targu Mures.  764.052 was built by Chrzanow in 1949 and is very similar to the PKP Px48 type.  Until recently it was based at Sibiu.

 

If the Regiotrans dmu looks familiar, it's because it started life as an SNCF X4300 (or X4500) set.  It seems the Romanians are fitting new cab fronts to some, but leaving the SNCF red and cream livery untouched.

[burgundy]

Day 9 – Bucovina - the Moldovita line
By now, we had crossed the Carpathians out of Transylvania and into the Bukovina. To give a slight taste of the volatility of the national boundaries in this part of the world, a hundred years ago, this was part of Austrian Galicia, at the end of the First World War it became Romania and, following fighting in World War 2, was split between Romania and the Soviet Union; the northern part remains part of present day Ukraine.

The Moldovita is another former forestry line, but with the particular attraction of spells of roadside running where you are likely to overtake a horse and cart (or possibly vice versa).

One of the run pasts was viewed from up a convenient hillside, giving lots of opportunity for those “train in the landscape shots”.

Leaving the first station, it is clear that construction of buildings has gone right up to the limits of the loading gauge.

One of the features of the loco that hauled us, which was not susceptible to photography, was that it embodied a Klien Lindner axle to give the wheelbase greater flexibility. In essence, it allows some play in the rear (and possibly leading) driving axle, while keeping the coupling rods fixed. In seems to work very effectively in the Romanian forests, but I understand that it causes grief in North Wales.

Many thanks to Keith and Eddie for their further comments. Looking into the cab of the little Polish designed tender loco, it was quite striking how much space there was on the footplate and how well enclosed it all was. Given the weather in eastern Europe, this should  perhaps be no surprise.

Best wishes

Eric
 

[burgundy]

Day 11 – Maramures - Viseu de Sus
From Bukovina, we moved on, again over the mountains, into Maramures. Part of the journey was by train, boxing the compass as the line followed river valleys and tunnelled under a mountain pass.   
Like Bukovina, Marmures has had a varied 100 years, belonging first to Hungary, then shared between Czechoslovakia and Romania, back to Hungary during World War 2, then shared first with the Soviet Union and now Ukraine.
Our final railway visit was to the Viseu de Sus line, which continues to combine both logging and operating as a tourist railway. Steam locos are kept for the passenger trains and diesels for hauling logs. The leading vehicle is an interesting combination which provides both guard’s accommodation and additional fuel.

The line runs up a valley where the road rapidly runs out, and has branches up side valleys to follow the logging. Passenger trains run over only a part of the route, but still give a dramatic and impressive run. Our train was followed by a second, apparently operating on a time interval basis, so that it reached the barbeque spot in time to allow us to position to photograph its arrival.
There are signs around warning of bears, but nothing about wolves, I am afraid.

There are also a collection of drasines of doubtful parentage for staff transport. White van man gets everywhere, but this one takes his own turntable with him.

The line seems to have been given considerable help from Swiss enthusiasts so that you can travel in a carriage apparently destined for Jungfraujoch.

The station buildings at the end of the line are worth a visit, as they contain a small museum which documents the destruction of the local Jewish community that lived in the valley until the 1940s.

This small plinthed  loco was one of a number at the lower end of the line and the tiny four wheeled tender appealed to me.

And that really sums up the railway content of the trip. It was a busy two weeks, covering a lot of ground, visiting a lot of historical and cultural sights in between railways and staying at homestays (something like a B&B ) for quite a number of nights.
Modelgenic? Absolutely – just look at the surroundings of the photos and videos. I could pipe dream about a layout of a small Saxon village with a long German name, with ancient Hungarian outside framed 0-6-0s and then telling viewers that it was set in Romania. However, I am afraid that other schemes have priority at the moment, so it is not likely to happen.
Finally, thanks to those who have added information about the locos and locations, which has been helpful in providing more background to my own observations.
Best wishes
Eric

[EddieB]

Thank you, Eric for these reports.  What they highlight is how much the preservation scene in Romania has changed in recent years - much for the better, but some (Sibiu) for the worse.

 

The 0-6-0T+T in the last picture - 763.193 (Krauss/Linz 1219/1921) - was listed as being at Moldovita in 2005 (an LCGB lising of preserved locos of Bulgaria, Greece and Romania), the forestry system there having recently closed.