RosiesBoss Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 Background I believe that, many years ago, C.J.Freezer said in respect of those of us wishing to expand our GWR loco collections: “When in doubt, add another pannier”. When I was still attending school, around 1965-6, I attempted to scratchbuild a 57XX class pannier tank from brass and copper, using and old Tri-ang 0-6-0 chassis. After a few years, realising how crude this was, I consigned the body to the “scrap bin”. Still, it was useful experience. My first scale model was a Wills 1854-class, built about 1966-7, which is still running. Others include: 2721 class – restored Hornby wreck: 57XX class – Bachmann model: 64XX class – rebuilt from Hornby 8751 class: 64XX class - rebuilt from GBL 57XX class: 94XX class – detailed Graham Farish model: 8750 class – K’s body on Bachmann chassis: Some time ago, my scrapbin received a new (old stock) Wills 1854 class 0-6-0PT chassis and an incomplete body for a Hornby 2721 class loco. I also had acquired a Perseverance chassis kit for 7'3'' + 8'3" wheelbase pannier. I initially thought I would make a 655 class 0-6-0PT, using the Perseverance chassis and Hornby body, but, on reflection, I realised that this would still look the same to the untrained eye as most of those listed above. Then I realised that a double-framed example, fitted with spark-arrestor chimney, would be quite different. I settled on the 1076 class (wheelbase 7'4" + 8'4") and started to gather information and photographs. One useful image is found here: http://railphotoprints.zenfolio.com/p249682189/h363328CC#h363328cc. I chose to model 1565, whose 1932 image was recently listed on eBay. Simple GAs were found here: http://www.champwilde.f9.co.uk/gwdrawings/pannierindex.html. Other photos which appeared on eBay from time to time were also used for reference. Materials List Wills whitemetal 1854-class 0-6-0PT chassis kit Romford 18mm dia wheels & extended axles NWSL 36:1 idler gearbox #L153-6 Small open-frame motor Silicone rubber tubing Incomplete Hornby 2721 class pannier tank body 0.5mm thick copper and brass sheet 8BA screw and nut Single-core insulated household mains wire Whitemetal dummy leaf springs Dowel offcut Brass modellers’ rod Alan Gibson Collett buffers Inkjet-printable overhead transparency plastic sheet Tension-lock couplings Scale couplings 18 turned brass handrail knobs 0.3mm dia phosphor bronze wire Construction (1): Body The 1076 class 0-6-0PT has almost the same wheelbase as many of the later classes, so the Wills chassis was a good fit – except that it was a little long at the front overhang. Therefore, I chose to build a basic footplate/outside frame unit first and then adjust the Wills chassis. I first made and printed 4mm scale copies of all of the GAs. I then made a further print onto overhead transparency plastic. Using a new scalpel blade, I cut out one of the outside frames for use as a template, then marked out two frames onto 0.5mm thick copper sheet. Before cutting them out, I impressed rivet detail (as shown in numerous photos of this class), using a sharpened nail mounted in my drill press, ensuring that I had a left frame and a right frame. This approach minimised distortion of the copper sheet. Both frames were then carefully cut from the sheet, being finished with a Dremel-style cutoff wheel and Swiss files. The footplate and buffer beams were then cut from the same copper sheet and adjusted to size. Frames, footplate and buffer beams were then soft-soldered together. Holes in the footplate were then cut out to leave room for gearbox, motor and wheels. At this stage, the wheels/axles were assembled in the chassis and its overall length adjusted the fit the footplate. Flangeless wheels were chosen for the centre axle, as I intend to use this model on sharp radius curves, from time to time. A small bracket was fitted behind the front buffer beam to locate that end of the chassis. An 8BA screw was soldered to the rear of the footplate (to be hidden under the coal bunker) to both secure the body to the chassis and provide a mounting point for the rear tension-lock coupling. Wheel splashers were fabricated from thin brass sheet and soldered to the footplate. They were then adjusted to clear the driving wheels. Rear steps were cut from copper sheet and soldered to the frames Springs and their hangers were assembled from commercial whitemetal leaf springs and narrow brass strip left over from some old etched kits. These were then super-glued to the footplate, next to the wheel splashers. Simple representations of the live steam injectors were soldered up from brass rods of various diameters and then glued to the footplate. At this stage, the model looked like this: Rubber spring dampers (seen either side of each axlebox assembly) were fabricated from short lengths of single-cored house wire, with just 1.5mm of insulation left on. These were superglued to the inside surfaces of the outer frames, with just the insulation visible from the outside. The Hornby body was stripped down and then modified as follows: Plastic footplate cut off, saving tool boxes, sand boxes and buffer beams for future projects Under-boiler skirt trimmed to better portray the under-side of the boiler and (hopefully) leave a bit of daylight under the boiler. Handrails, balancing pipe and injector moulding carefully cut off Bottom rear corners of firebox trimmed to fit between the rear wheel splashers and rear coupled wheels Cab footplate shortened at the front and trimmed to clear the rear coupled wheels New balancing pipe (actually, two halves) made from single-cored house wire and fitted to underside of each pannier tank. The modified body was then affixed to the footplate with 5-minute epoxy cement, which had the added feature of filling any imperfections left after removal of the original footplate. Before this had fully cured, excess epoxy was carefully removed with a scalpel. A new spark-arrestor chimney was turned on the lathe from dowel, ensuring that the inside diameter was a good fit over the Hornby chimney. Now the model looked like this: Sand- and tool-boxes were fabricated from 0.25 in square-section brass rod. The safety valve, as supplied, is flat across the top, with no representation of the four safety valves. In this case, the valve casing was shallow-drilled 0.125 in and a Romford wheel nut, with an extra slot cut at 90 degrees to the original slot, was fitted into the hole. Before gluing the tank top to tank sides, ballast weights made from roofing lead were made and fitted into the spaces in the pannier tanks. The tank top was then fixed in place with 5-minute epoxy cement. After this had set and been trimmed, remaining cracks were filled with automotive body filler. After this had set overnight, excess filler was carefully removed and the tank sides smoothed out. The cab roof came with only one of its two whistles. A second one was found on a scrap Tri-ang “Nellie” body and fitted. The buffer beams were then marked-out and drilled/pierced in order to fit scale couplings and buffers. Once these holes were finished, these fittings were attached. (I’ll replace the Collett pattern buffers with Dean-Churchward ones, if I can find some.) New tank vents were made and fitted, using modified steel nails whose heads had been domed on the bench grinder. A new smokebox door dart was fabricated from a long handrail knob plus short lengths of 0.3mm dia wire, soldered together. New brass handrail knobs were fitted where required. New handrails were fabricated from 0.3mm dia phosphor bronze wire and fitted. Lamp brackets were made from domestic steel staples and fitted where needed. Construction (2): Chassis A NWSL 36:1 gearbox was fitted to the front axle. This required the brass gear to be mounted permanently to the axle before installation, so a slot was filed in the chassis below the two front bearings, just big enough for the axle, but not so large as to allow the brass bearings to fall out. Once the axle/gear assembly was in place, bearings were replaced and the wheels refitted. The gearbox was then assembled onto the axle. A Mabuchi motor (the same size as a Hornby Type 7) was connected to the gearbox drive shaft by means of a short piece of silicone rubber model aircraft fuel pipe. It was then fixed to the chassis with silicone sealant/adhesive, giving it a resilient mount which should reduce noise generation. This arrangement facilitates the observation of “daylight” under the boiler, a feature not often seen on 00-scale models, together with conserving the open cab of this class. Axle-end cranks were fabricated from brass strip – six pieces soldered together, drilled and then roughly shaped before being de-soldered. They were then tapped 10BA at the axle end and 12BA at the other end. 12BA screws were then soldered into place. They were then test fitted to the axles, with a 12BA nut mounted behind each one as a lock-nut, to facilitate quartering. The chassis now looked like this: Simple nickel-silver or phos bronze wire pickups were soldered to a piece of PC board, screwed to the under-side of the chassis block. Connecting rods, supplied with the Wills cast chassis, were then fitted to the cranks. Cranks were quartered by eye and then any tightness carefully eased. When all ran sweetly, cranks were soldered into place and 12BA nuts were fitted to the crankpins and soldered into place. Excess 12BA pins were cut off and filed flat. The chassis now looked like this: Finishing After handrail knobs (and handrails not needing them) were fitted, the body was primed with automotive spray grey and checked to see if any further rubbing-down was required. The model now looked like this: Once any further adjustments were made, I fitted the remaining handrails (all made from 0.3mm dia phosphor bronze wire left over from my H0 scale tramway http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/77505-rosemount-tramway/). Inspired by a photograph of 1610 emerging from Swindon in 1927 (illustrated in Ref.3), I have finished the model in almost ex-works condition, using Humbrol enamels and HMRS transfers. The numberplates were made at home using my inkjet printer. The model was then varnished with Humbrol satin clear. Results I’m happy with the look of this model. It seems to capture the “chunky” and vintage look of this particular class. Don’t let anyone tell you that all pannier tank locos look the same! Reflections GWR pannier tanks were ubiquitous on the GWR and BR(W) in the 20th century. Most layouts set in that period should have at least one. However, the subtle shape of the tanks presents quite a challenge to scratch-build. The Hornby 2721 class model has a body which has been stretched to fit a chassis and wheelbase originally designed and marketed for a Tri-ang Jinty in the early 1950s. However, the tank mouldings and cab are a good fit for the drawings shown in Ref.2. Therefore, these body mouldings can be utilised for scale models of this and other classes. This project is, I guess, an extreme example of such use. This project took about a month of construction time, following about six months of research for drawings and photographs. It came at just the right time to help me wind down from a very busy 2015. It presented lots of challenges, but plenty of satisfaction in achieving the results illustrated above. I think my modelling standards have improved a little since I first tried to make a brass model around 1965. References RCTS: “The locomotives of the Great Western Railway: Part Five – Six-Coupled Tank Engines”, RCTS, 1958 http://www.champwilde.f9.co.uk/gwdrawings/pannierindex.html Brian Stephenson (ed.): “Locomotives Illustrated 118: The Pre-1928 GWR Pannier and Saddle Tank Locomotives”, RAS Publishing, 1998 : Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lyonesse Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 Very interesting. Nice comparison of panniers down the ages. I was particularly interested in your first scratchbuilt effort. Congratulations to your younger self for persevering and completing the loco. We should have a thread of my first scratchbuilt. Re 1565: The result is very impressive, well done. If it was me, I'd use nickel silver for the frames, being much easier to solder than copper, or even brass. But you seem to be able to achieve good results with copper sheet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RosiesBoss Posted January 27, 2016 Author Share Posted January 27, 2016 Thank you, Lyonesse, for your comments. I have maintained a "stash" of small sheets of copper, brass and nickel silver since I received my first batch around 1965 from a family friend who worked at a foundry. I did use some of the nickel silver in early projects (around 1970-71), which included conversion of a Trix-Twin Hunt class into "Earl Cawdor" and a Tri-ang Princess into an H0 NSWGR C35 class. The sheets that were used in these projects were very hard, rigid and much more difficult to work and solder than the brass and copper. Hence, my results were somewhat disappointing. More recent projects, such as 1196 (2000) and 1376 (2013) have made good use of copper, with some brass. In this particular project, I needed sheet metal that was soft and malleable enough to be able to be impressed with rivet detail, without cracking or tearing. Soldering was particularly easy, as I was able to solder some small components to larger ones without de-soldering existing parts, due to the excellent heat-sink provided. Once assembled, the copper structure proved to be very rigid. Trimming and tidying up was also very simple and easy. Once everything was wire-brushed, the surface took primer perfectly and made it easy to achieve a good colour painted finish. I hope this approach makes some sense. Regards, Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lyonesse Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 Thank you, Lyonesse, for your comments. I have maintained a "stash" of small sheets of copper, brass and nickel silver since I received my first batch around 1965 from a family friend who worked at a foundry. I did use some of the nickel silver in early projects (around 1970-71), which included conversion of a Trix-Twin Hunt class into "Earl Cawdor" and a Tri-ang Princess into an H0 NSWGR C35 class. 3297 Earl Cawdor & 3440 City of Truro, Carmarthen Junction, 6 Apr 2013 a.JPG 3506, Carmarthen Jn, 09 Sep 2015.JPG The sheets that were used in these projects were very hard, rigid and much more difficult to work and solder than the brass and copper. Hence, my results were somewhat disappointing. More recent projects, such as 1196 (2000) and 1376 (2013) have made good use of copper, with some brass. 1196, Carmarthen Junction, 13 Apr 2013.JPG 1376 at coaling stage, 08 Mar 2013.JPG In this particular project, I needed sheet metal that was soft and malleable enough to be able to be impressed with rivet detail, without cracking or tearing. Soldering was particularly easy, as I was able to solder some small components to larger ones without de-soldering existing parts, due to the excellent heat-sink provided. Once assembled, the copper structure proved to be very rigid. Trimming and tidying up was also very simple and easy. Once everything was wire-brushed, the surface took primer perfectly and made it easy to achieve a good colour painted finish. I hope this approach makes some sense. Regards, Rob If you're having difficulty in working with nickel silver sheet then may I suggest that what you're using is too thick? 0.010in is usual for general 4mm scale work, and is fairly easy to cut and file. For parts that need to be heavily decorated with rivets, or bent to shape (step treads, and the like) I find 0.008in tinplate very good. This may be obtained from infant formula cans, some coffee cans, and before about 1980 from motor oil cans. Use a tin opener that cuts below the rim to take of the top and bottom, cut down the side with tin snips, flatten out then trim all round. You'll probably also have to scrape the paint off --- it comes off quite easily. And tinplate is dead easy to solder (although it does rust if you neglect to paint it). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RosiesBoss Posted March 25, 2016 Author Share Posted March 25, 2016 G'day, Lyonesse, Thank you for your comments. I'm sure you are correct in suggesting that my 1971 experience in using donated nickel silver sheet is correct, as it was rather thick and reluctant to take the shapes I desired for it. I have been fortunate to have been given a substantial stock of brass and copper sheet over the years, so I normally avoid buying any more. However, I have become a bit more canny in choosing thicknesses suitable for potential uses in my more recent projects. I'm currently making a replacement body for "Earl Cawdor" from my stocks of brass and copper sheet and am happy with the way it's coming out. Here's an image of the footplate/smokebox saddle/outside frame assembly: I aim to publish an account of this project when it is complete. I'm sure I could do just as well with tinplate or thin nickel silver, but I'm happy to continue working with my substantial stocks of brass and copper. Regards, Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darwinian Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 Now that is a really cool pannier conversion. I love the way you utilised available bits and combined them with a bit of scratch building, it really captures the look of the old outside framed tanks. I look froward to seeing the "new" version of Earl Cawdor". Always thought this a bit of an ugly duckling of a loco (given that it lead to the adoption of the standard outside framed Bulldogs etc.) but so unusual that it just cires out to be modelled. Hope your build goes well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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