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Resin Casting Bodyshells


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I can't believe how much fun I am having with resin casting. I'm pretty astonished at the results (so thanks to Jon H. for providing the inspiration and motivation to have a go)!

 

With all this 3D scanning, rapid prototyping and ever improvments in resin casting and etching, it's certainly an exciting time in our little hobby.

 

I'd be keen to hear how you get on with that resin - it looks like a very attractive option and a comparitivley cheap one at that. I think I'll take a punt and order a batch. The reawakening of this thread has given me a bit of kick start to dust off some masters and have another play around, I've got a feeling this weekend could be a productive one.

 

Pix

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With all this 3D scanning, rapid prototyping and ever improvments in resin casting and etching, it's certainly an exciting time in our little hobby.

 

I can't believe how much fun I am having with resin casting. I'm pretty astonished at the results (so thanks to Jon H. for providing the inspiration and motivation to have a go)!

 

I too learnt a great deal - Guy's rapid-prototype masters are AMAZING, and I really liked the idea of using lego to provide the interlocking mould, so much so, that having finally got the courtesy car owed by the insurance, that the first second third* thing I did was to pour the first half of a mould,

 

Jon

 

*first was to was go to the bike shop, buy the bits to put my push bike back together (I've had one of those weeks where every form of transport I've tried to use has been a test of my patience), and second involved cycling to Kingston to buy plasticine required to embed the master in.

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  • 4 months later...

Just done my first pour with this and waiting to demold. First impressions:

 

- Its uber-runny stuff. Noticeably more runny than EasyFlo 60.

- The Part B stinks. I did the pour right next to an open window in my work room and have now left the room with the door shut and window open!

- Colour is beige not white (not really a problem).

- The big colour difference of the two parts actually aids you in telling when it is properly mixed - it takes quite a bit of time.

- It *feels* like it has a longer pot life than EasyFlo 60 (I filled 3 moulds and I waited quite a bit of time before I saw it start to go cloudy and set).

- I didn't find I had to "pick" bubbles out with a cocktail stick like I did with the EasyFlo 60. I was looking for bubbles but couldn't find any to pick out. I'm attributing this to the viscosity difference.

 

Even though they say the de-mold time is 20 minutes I'm going to give it 45 minutes to be sure. Will post more later!

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I'm interested to see how you get on, but the smell dosn't sound too promising.

 

I was debating suggesting a resin 'workshop' at the CMRA modellers workshop in July, but actually I really want to have an uniterupted day of scratchbuilding ferry vans - every time I see the unfinished vans in th workshop I feel guilty,

 

Jon

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Observations of the first casts:

 

- F31 seems more brittle than EasyFlo 60 (easyflo 60 more plastic-like). Not a major problem but a consideration for structural elements.

 

- F31 has a more matt finish than EasyFlo 60. This could be a trick of the light or something to do with the different colour? I'm hoping that this will mean that paint adheres better to the surface. In fact, this is one of the selling points of this resin mentioned by Tiranti.

 

Jon, I know what you mean about the unfinished bits! I have ceremonially placed 6 months work into a shoebox (all made from the bad resin) as I can't quite bear to throw them out.

 

On the workbench at the moment, two "experiments":

 

PTA #1 - Castings made in "good" EasyFlo 60 (one of the ones you did at Showcase).

PTA #2 - Castings made from F31.

 

I'm not making any more castings until these are made up and painted to check the process works!

 

In the mean time, a little bit of mould making (can you guess what it is yet?):

 

post-7525-0-78449400-1339942153_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

How did you get on Guy? It looks like it might be tricky to fill, I even went in search of the bits of 'salad spinner' Brian W gave to me (with a view to using it for centrifugal casting, rather than to make sure that my salad was dry) but alas I seem to have put the geared bit somewhere particularly safe, and am reaching the conclusion that the only way to find it again will be to buy a replacement.

 

Jon

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So here are the two experiments OMWB (top one is F31, bottom is "good" EasyFlo 60):

 

post-7525-0-06942100-1340801403_thumb.jpg

 

This morning I primed them both so will check for weeping when I get home. I was also planning on painting them tonight with the airbrush which will be the final test of whether they hold paint or not (so far so good!).

 

For both of these wagons, I used the 3D printed under frame parts directly (albeit cleaned up and primed on the sprue before assembly). This actually proved to be very quick and has sped up the construction of the kit as, unlike the cast under frame components, there is no flash to clean and no holes to drill. They increase the cost of each wagon by about £5 but this is probably worth it for the reduced construction (and casting) hassle.

 

Having said that, I've also done a test casting from the new mould shown above. Yes, it is tricky to fill, but I got a good result from overfilling both halves and then pushing them together whilst the resin is still workable letting the resulting resin (and bubbles!) ooze out round the parting line. The major pain is cleaning off the flash. The good thing is that there are two wagons worth of components in one pour - a much better idea than the previous mould where I had to do 4 perfect pours to get enough bits for a single wagon! At least this way, if a few components don't cast nicely, there are plenty of spares!

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  • 3 years later...

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