The Dapol Class 52 'Wobble' TOTALLY fixed !

[swiftbeam]

Hi Guys,

 

I thought I'd post this solution as I know the Dapol 52 has had big problems in the past with body 'wobble' caused by wonky wheels!

 

I bought my 52 brand new about 3 weeks ago, and guess what it wobbled badly. I read up on it when I saw it and decided to return to the shop for a fix. A week later, and having had to pay the postage, I got it back, still wobbling. I then decided not to send it back to shop and sent it to DCC Supplies for another fix, paying yet more postage! 2 weeks later I got it back, guess what, STILL wobbling!!!  

 

I'd had enough at this point! I wanted the model, so no way going to return for a refund, and not going to pay and wait again for another fix that wasn't going to fix the problem!! I elected to fix her myself!

 

A week ago I found this method fixed my wobbly Bachmann class 47.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/128127-a-jig-to-line-up-wheels-on-axles/&do=findComment&comment=2923522

 

Although the above got it better, it was still not perfect, sooooooooooo, 

 

 

 

The wheels are on stub axles on the  Dapol 52 and the subs are pushed into the gears. On disassembly I found the axles were not particularly tight on the gear and the back to back was easy to move! This is how I fix the 'wobble'.

 

The wheels on their stubs were mounted in the lathe. The lathe and tool was carefully set-up so only the top slide moved with everything else locked off. The topside was set to 3 degrees and also set so it also stopped at the exact point of the root radius. All my wheels were about 0.004" out of true so a 0.003" cut was set to skim the tread. This was enough to retread all the wheels in one pass (only just on some !)

 

All the stubs were then scored longitudinally on the last 3mm of each axle. This made the stub slightly bigger at the score line because of the displaced metal and then gripped the gear MUCH better! 

 

1.5mm plastic strips were made so the wheel sets could be reassembled so the gear was set exactly in the centre of the assembly, and the final back to back adjusted from there. MUCH CARE TAKEN NOT TO LOSE THE CLEAR WHEEL SHIMS!!

 

All the wheel sets were then put back into the bogies and the bogie bottoms clipped home, pipes refitted.

 

I can honestly say My Dapol class 52 now runs totally perfectly and with absolutely no 'wobble' at all, no matter how hard you look 

Maybe this can help somebody with a wobbly Dapol 52?

Edited November 17, 2017 by swiftbeam

[lofty1966]

Hi Guys,

 

I thought I'd post this solution as I know the Dapol 52 has had big problems in the past with body 'wobble' caused by wonky wheels!

 

I bought my 52 brand new about 3 weeks ago, and guess what it wobbled badly. I read up on it when I saw it and decided to return to the shop for a fix. A week later, and having had to pay the postage, I got it back, still wobbling. I then decided not to send it back to shop and sent it to DCC Supplies for another fix, paying yet more postage! 2 weeks later I got it back, guess what, STILL wobbling!!!  

 

I'd had enough at this point! I wanted the model, so no way going to return for a refund, and not going to pay and wait again for another fix that wasn't going to fix the problem!! I elected to fix her myself!

 

A week ago I found this method fixed my wobbly Bachmann class 47.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/128127-a-jig-to-line-up-wheels-on-axles/&do=findComment&comment=2923522

 

Although the above got it better, it was still not perfect, sooooooooooo, 

 

 

 

The wheels are on stub axles on the  Dapol 52 and the subs are pushed into the gears. On disassembly I found the axles were not particularly tight on the gear and the back to back was easy to move! This is how I fix the 'wobble'.

 

The wheels on their stubs were mounted in the lathe. The lathe and tool was carefully set-up so only the top slide moved with everything else locked off. The topside was set to 3 degrees and also set so it also stopped at the exact point of the root radius. All my wheels were about 0.004" out of true so a 0.003" cut was set to skim the tread. This was enough to retread all the wheels in one pass (only just on some !)

IMG_3438.JPG

IMG_3439.JPG

 

All the stubs were then scored longitudinally on the last 3mm of each axle. This made the stub slightly bigger at the score line because of the displaced metal and then gripped the gear MUCH better! 

IMG_3440.JPG

 

1.5mm plastic strips were made so the wheel sets could be reassembled so the gear was set exactly in the centre of the assembly, and the final back to back adjusted from there. MUCH CARE TAKEN NOT TO LOSE THE CLEAR WHEEL SHIMS!!

IMG_3441.JPG

IMG_3442.JPG

 

All the wheel sets were then put back into the bogies and the bogie bottoms clipped home, pipes refitted.

IMG_3443.JPG

 

I can honestly say My Dapol class 52 now runs totally perfectly and with absolutely no 'wobble' at all, no matter how hard you look 

Maybe this can help somebody with a wobbly Dapol 52?

Yes ,coz we all have access and requisite skills to operate an engineering lathe. ;-)

[swiftbeam]

Yes ,coz we all have access and requisite skills to operate an engineering lathe. ;-

 

I honestly thought this post would be helpful and show people that if you have a wobbly 52 it can be fixed.

 

Did you know you can buy small modelling lathes for under £150 that are capable of doing this job?

That's the cost of one 00 model, and the lathe will last a life time and do many more jobs and increase your modelling horizons!

 

I bought this little lathe from a show the other month for £75!

 

 

I'm really very sorry for trying to help somebody.

[Robert Shrives]

No please - this really useful it shows a solution and many folk can by looking around find somebody with a lathe to help and many clubs will certainly help members. 

 

I guess it will help 2mm folk as well !  just need a tiny lathe !!!!! 

 

With the proxon lathe being around the £300- 400 mark this the same as a sound loco - or in the same bracket and the lathe tutorials on  the web and engieering in miniature mags an booklets this could help spur on the step up in skills .

Helping to part bolts cleanly, or turning signal finials  or turn down metal to the size needed or simple jobs.

 

Thanks from me

Robert   

[rob D2]

You should offer a reprofiling service !

[Melly]

Thanks for taking the time to post.  It's really useful when folks show how they fix issues with the skills and tools they have to hand.

 

My problem is. . .  . .I don't and TBH I shouldn't have to chuffing fix it.

 

When we made the leap from Lima and 'train-set' mentality to the "Super detailed' and centre-5 pole motors, which has invigorated the hobby, the wheelsets are an area that has been massively overlooked.

 

I hate wobbly diesel wheels.  No mater how well it's weathered or detailed as soon as it moves and wobbles, like a drunk tranny in high heels, it ruins the effect!  I bought some spare bachy 37 wheels to try and resolve my fleet issues. . .  . . .I found 2 different diameter sized wheels across the fleet!!!! 

 

And I know aftermarket wheels are available. . . .  .but they are ££££ and I'm not re-gauging so I shouldn't have to.

Regards

M

Edited November 18, 2017 by Melly

[Robert Shrives]

Nowt wrong with a drunk tranny !!! 

 

It is amazing how wheels suffer  it is down not only to QC but storage after and before assembly. I do get the feeling it is down to the staff putting them together.  Having said that I have bent an axle on a 2mmfs wagon being a bit keen to install.

 

Hopefully newer models will get better now it is understood to be a problem. The Dapol pinpointed loco wheels seem better on 22 etc not seen any wobbles but Western deviled by it and seen some Farish wobble but that due to the wheel being twisted in its insulating bush. 

 

Robert