49395 Posted April 3, 2010 Share Posted April 3, 2010 Hi, I'm presently converting a Bachmann class 20 (one of the original versions) into a DRS 20/3. As the base model was a pilot scheme D8000 I have had to replace the oval buffers with A1 models turned brass ones. The extended range tanks and cabside windows are by PHD, the cab front windows, wipacs and multiple working sockets are by Shawplan. Also I have altered the grille arrangement to better replicate the real thing, by cutting a complete grille from one side to replace the flat panel in front of the left hand tank, then cutting a grille from an area covered by the tanks to fill in the resultant gap. (This saves buying another bodyshell) Pictures below: I haven't started on the nose yet and the grilles need some filler but its taking shape. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
49395 Posted April 9, 2010 Author Share Posted April 9, 2010 Hi, As well as the 20 I'm working on some WDLR rolling stock in O-14. Here's a photo of a Wrightlines D class wagon I'm part way through building: It's my first attempt at whitemetal soldering, and now I've tried it I'm certain I won't be using glue on whitemetal kits again* (*except on small details) Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted April 9, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 9, 2010 Hi Mike, They certainly can't say you only build in one scale or era! Just make sure the WM is clean and use plenty of flux and you should be ok. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
49395 Posted April 9, 2010 Author Share Posted April 9, 2010 Thanks Paul, They can't say that about you either Thanks for the advice. My latest order of KBscale wheels arrived yesterday so I can now build up some more bogies. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Hilton Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 The DRS 20/3 is coming on well - is it going to be one of the first batch with the lovely smoke grey roof? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
49395 Posted April 9, 2010 Author Share Posted April 9, 2010 The DRS 20/3 is coming on well - is it going to be one of the first batch with the lovely smoke grey roof? Thanks, Unfortunately not, it is going to be 20307 of the later batch with the black roof, although I aren't going to rule out doing another at some point which may be from the earlier batch. The big problem I have is that the headshunt on my layout can only accomodate 1 loco, so another 20 isn't high on the list at the moment. (I also have a 33/2 I can run with the 20) My excuse for 1 loco on a flask train is that its going empty to the wagon works on my layout. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
49395 Posted April 24, 2010 Author Share Posted April 24, 2010 Hi, Here's a photo of my first (nearly) finished D class wagon, it just needs couplings and some weathering. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
49395 Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 A bit of an update of what I've been building, (that was a shock, has it really been that long since I updated this thread?) First up, a nearly complete Nigel Lawton 20HP Simplex built to O-14. With a penny for size comparison. A view showing the zimo 621 decoder, its not a neat installation (being the first loco I've DCC fitted) but it works. After a bit of fettling the drive mechanism, the radiator fan will spin, powered by a decoder function. Then it just needs painting olive drab and a driver, numberplates and our own design of couplings fitted. Next up a Chivers WDLR Hunslet 4-6-0 from Slimrails, again to be built to O-14. EDIT: the boiler fittings aren't fixed in place yet, looking at those pics I hadn't noticed how lopsided they were when I balanced them on the boiler last night! The body is just resting on the chassis at the moment and the wheels are Markits and only temporary. (Bought before I found out the kit was going to be re-released and I thought I'd have to scratchbuild) The wheelsets supplied with the kit needing the axles trimming Next up, a pic of the backhead and cab detail. I'm really enjoying building this kit, the main chassis folds up out of a single etch and the bearings were a near exact fit, with the temporary wheels, I had a rolling chassis in a very short amount of time. There isn't a lot of sideplay in the axles (except the rear axle which has a bit) which shouldn't be a problem but it will need to go through about a 2'3" radius curve (fingers crossed) The quality of the castings is absolutely excellent with the parts falling together with next to no fettling. (The real locos regularly went through 30m radius track and points) At least this will be easy to paint, the war office spec was something along the lines of: Matt black, 2 coats. It won't be lacking adhesive weight either! All in all one of the best kits I've ever built. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted March 22, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 22, 2011 Wow! you managed to get the Simplex together, how did you work the drive to the axles? Won't believe that the fan works till see it... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
49395 Posted March 23, 2011 Author Share Posted March 23, 2011 Thanks Paul, I think you're thinking of the 40HP Simplex, we still haven't finalised how the chassis will work on those. The 20HP above is the Nigel Lawton kit, http://www.nigellawton009.com/7mm_20HP_WD_Simplex.html The photos on his site show how its driven. (All the wires from the chip hide it in the photos I've posted) The second smaller motor drives the fan, but theres something in the drivetrain binding occasionally at the moment. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
49395 Posted June 10, 2011 Author Share Posted June 10, 2011 Another update on the Hunslet. Last night I set to with the soldering iron and fitted the brake gear, as a result its not far off complete now. (I have made a fair bit of progress in general since the last update, its now running well, all of the motion is on etc.) Its DCC chipped with a Zimo MX630 and there is a High Level 40:1 gearbox with a Mashima 1224 (I think) and flywheel driving the middle coupled axle. Aside from a few slight pick up issues it runs nicely now (after I found a tight spot in one of the rods that had been binding) I really need to take more photos while I'm building things... Next up is a replacement bodyshell built from plasticard for a Dick Kerr petrol electric. I've had the chassis for ages and I was never happy with the previous bodyshell, it was too wide for a start. This also has a Zimo MX630 fitted and after tweaking some settings it runs nice and slowly. There are 79 louvres to do on each side, I've only got 36 on this side done so far, they are made from 1mm quarter round plastruct cut into 7mm lengths with the ends rounded. The biggest challenge with this is probably going to be the raidiator (even though it has a louvred cover (yay more louvres! )) closely followed by the axleboxes. (Photos taken hastily this morning on my rather cluttered workbench) Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted June 10, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 10, 2011 Looking really good Mike, don't forget to detail the underside of the Dick Kerr for when it falls over Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
49395 Posted June 10, 2011 Author Share Posted June 10, 2011 Thanks Paul, I'm hoping to have the Hunslet finished in a couple of weeks for when we next work on the layout. I want to try and fit as much underside detail to the Dick Kerr as I can, at least there are some photos about of that angle from when they did capsize! At least if our stock derails we can blame it on enemy activity! I just hope nothing decides to derail on one of the trestle bridges on the layout for two reasons. 1) It might damage something (stock or layout) 2) The bridges are my responsibility! (and as I have laid some of the track over them its likely my fault if anything goes wrong) Since the bridges are built as close to the real thing as possible, there aren't any check rails or parapets and they are very narrow (just over 4 scale feet (about 30mm) IIRC) Cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted June 11, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 11, 2011 Great modelling Mike, I do like the Hunslet WD loco, and the Chivers kit is a beauty. How well did the valvegear go together? Nice to see some more narrow gauge on RMweb as well. Are you on the Narrow Gauge modelling forum? http://ngrm-online.com/forum/index.php All the best, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
49395 Posted June 13, 2011 Author Share Posted June 13, 2011 Thanks DLT, I am on that forum, however since the demise of Fotopic I haven't got round to hosting images anywhere else, otherwise this would be on there as well. The valvegear went together quite well, it uses rivets, and as long as you open out the holes as per the instructions it shouldn't pose too much of a problem. You have to make the valve rods up, which I made from some brass shim, first drilling a hole then filing to shape. The instructions recommend flattening part of a piece of wire, which I tried, but couldn't get to work properly. The only other slight issue I had, is that I had to fit the eccentric rod at an angle and put a slight bend in the radius link to clear the crosshead, I'll try and sort out a photo to show what I mean. Hopefully it will be at the priming and painting stage soon Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
49395 Posted June 14, 2011 Author Share Posted June 14, 2011 As promised here is a shot of the underneath of the loco As you can see, I have had to fit the eccentric rod at quite an angle to reach the radius link, which itself has a bend outwards to clear the crosshead. Viewed from the side its not too noticeable though, and it works so I'm happy with it. The pickups still need some attention though, I think they may need replacing or some more added. There is also the last part of the brake pull rod to fit on the rearmost brakes. It should look great in overall (i.e. everywhere, except the inside of the cab) matt black! Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
49395 Posted August 24, 2011 Author Share Posted August 24, 2011 Another sporadic update, I just can't seem to get around to taking pictures whilst I'm building things! Next up, yet another new project, can you tell what its going to be? My aim is to make it fully operational... A photo of the painted Hunslet should be up in the next few days, when I dig it out and take some. (It just needs couplings, crew, coal and a couple of tweaks now.) Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted August 24, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 24, 2011 Is it going to be a dragline Mike? with a brass rod shoved up the middle? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
49395 Posted August 25, 2011 Author Share Posted August 25, 2011 Is it going to be a dragline Mike? with a brass rod shoved up the middle? Maybe.... Ok yes, unfair advantage since I told you on Saturday! I just need 3 or 4 motors and gearboxes now... Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
49395 Posted October 25, 2011 Author Share Posted October 25, 2011 A belated update on the dragline and the Hunslet, Here is progress so far on the dragline: It works! although the slewing motor makes more noise than a blender full of bricks! That is next on the list for replacement with a considerably quieter gearbox. Edit: at the moment its a multi-ratio gearbox a bit like a turntable motorising kit, it was inexpensive and I've learned the hard way. The hoist and drag winches are each powered by a mashima 1015 motor and a tenshodo 14:1 worm and gear, nice and quiet. The winch sub-assembly is bolted inside the body on the dragline and about 120 degrees rotation is possible without harming the wires to the winches. The dragline is now about 3/4 complete with just final detailing and painting left to do. Now on to the Hunslet. Painted with Halfords primer and humbrol matt black spray cans. The cab interior is humbrol olive drab, as close a match as I have to a photo of the preserved number 303. I only have to add crew and coal now, with possibly a couple of other small details and varnish and finally weather at some point. No idea when the next update will be, (hopefully before next year though! ) I have loads of potential projects to start, and many more to finish, including these, although doesn't everyone... Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted November 17, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 17, 2011 A short video of the dragline operating. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_2IXJ0weAY Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
49395 Posted November 17, 2011 Author Share Posted November 17, 2011 Thanks for posting the video Paul. And to think it only took an hour and a half to fill the wagon.... Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dave.C Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 The H&S man wonders where the 'Caution Operator under instruction' signs are! Very simple, but id did appear to keep three grown men fully occupied for well over an hour Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 Excellent.... A very worthy enterprise! (might it be worth lowering the voltage a tad to slow things down? - meant in the most constructive way.....) I think it's brilliant. I've looked at that kit in the past and wondered - I'm glad to see you've done It! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 How is the 2o coming on Mike? Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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