DCC for dummies

[tigerburnie]

9 hours ago, Art Dent said:

 

Yes. The gap between the 'V' rails in the frog are quite close and older (wider) wheels may bridge the gap and cause a short.

 

The IRJs indicated in my diagram above, together with a wire that connects to the 'V' rails and switches polarity when the frog is thrown, sorts this out.

 

Art

That last statement will need explaining some time in the future

[tigerburnie]

Gaugemaster Prodigy Advance2 Starter Package DCC02, what's your thoughts please gents, bearing in mind this is for primarily sound on a fairly small  OO gauge layout. Thanx

[Ron Ron Ron]

13 minutes ago, tigerburnie said:

Gaugemaster Prodigy Advance2 Starter Package DCC02, what's your thoughts please gents, bearing in mind this is for primarily sound on a fairly small  OO gauge layout. Thanx

 

A perfectly competent system, but the ergonomics may or may not be to your liking, particularly the position of the throttle knob.

 

This system used to be dead end for adding computer control, but it’s now compatible with JMRI, although I’ve read that developer support is still limited.

Nigel will probably answer more accurately on this aspect.

 

Plus points.

There is an easy conversion kit to turn the handsets into wireless (radio) and wireless versions of the handset can also be added.

They’ve also recently added an optional and quite affordable WiFi module that would allow  smartphones and tablets (e.g. iPad) to be used as handsets.

 

The Prodigy series of DCC systems are actually made and sold by MRC (Model Rectifier Corporation) in the USA.

Gaugemaster sell part of the range under licence and re-badged as Gaugemaster products.

 

Ron

[tigerburnie]

I have no desire to attach a computer or a smart phone, though the wireless option might be considered, I have a gaugemaster DC controller and find it very good and they have a good reputation for reliability, I guess this reputation will apply to this equipment too.

[jpendle]

FYI, the Gaugemaster Prodigy is a rebadged US make (MRC, Model Rectifier Corp).

 

Regards,

 

John P

[Ron Ron Ron]

55 minutes ago, tigerburnie said:

........I have a gaugemaster DC controller and find it very good and they have a good reputation for reliability, I guess this reputation will apply to this equipment too.

 

As already stated, this equipment is made and supplied by another manufacturer.

Gaugemaster’s lifetime guarantee doesn’t apply in this case; however anecdotal evidence suggests Gaugemaster are very good at providing support for the Prodigy kit and carrying out repairs where necessary.

It appears from reports on this forum and elsewhere, that the throttle knob on some handsets has been prone to failure and that Gaugemaster have provided a speedy and satisfactory repair service.

 

Ron

[Art Dent]

1 hour ago, tigerburnie said:

Gaugemaster Prodigy Advance2 Starter Package DCC02, what's your thoughts please gents, bearing in mind this is for primarily sound on a fairly small  OO gauge layout. Thanx

 

Hi Tiger

 

I had a brand-new Gaugemaster Prodigy Express together with an additional Advance2 handset.

 

It was easy to use straight out of the box although the rotary throttle didn't always 'register' that it had been turned.

 

Part of the attraction was that as well as reading CVs it could also write CVs to the decoders.  However, this was somewhat problematic.  Sometimes it would read a whole string of CVs - such as the user-defined speed table (CVs 67 - 94) and sometimes only one or two at a time before giving an error.  Turning the power off and on again meant that I could read another couple of CVs before getting the error again.  Very frustrating.

 

The system had been purchased from my local model shop and I took it back there with a decoder-fitted model to show them that it wasn't reading CVS.  They agreed, tried a couple more DCC-fitted locos from their stock and also a brand-new "off-the-shelf" Prodigy system and had the same trouble.  Both systems had failed to read the CVs from decoders of different manufacturers in different locos.  I think (this is nearly 3 years ago mind) that they rang Guaugemaster to see if they could offer any solutions (they couldn't) and so despite the system being 6 months old, they refunded me in full as the system was not doing what it was advertised that it did.

 

I bought a NCE PowerCab system (very similar in operation to the Prodigy Advance) from another dealer as Rails don't stock NCE.

 

There are two (minor) advantages with the Prodigy system, one minor and one major disadvantage imho.

 

Advantages

 

1. The throttles (cabs) can be unplugged from the main unit (command station) and moved to another location and plugged back in without affecting the running of the locos on the layout.  The "smart" bit of the DCC system is in the command station not the walkaround throttle (handset) as it is with the NCE system.

 

2. The command station has two outputs - one for the track and one for a dedicated 'Programming Track' which I liked.  The NCE PowerCab doesn't have a separate programming track output although this is easily remedied by purchasing NCE's Auto Switch - an extra £25 or so.

 

Disadvantages

 

1. The afore-mentioned rorary throtle control which didn't always respond to user input but occasionally 'missed' you turning the control.

 

2.  This was the 'deal-breaker' for me.  The Prodigy Advance was VERY unreliable at reading back CVs from a decoder.  When trying to read back a long list of CVs from a decoder, having to turn it off and back on again every two or three CVs was a COMPLETE PAIN.

 

I'm very happy with the NCE PowerCab which operates in much the same way as the Prodigy Advance - for much the same price and much the same capability in terms of power output.

 

The NCE has an advantage over the Prodigy in that in addition to the thumbwheel throttle control (which allows the handheld throttle to be used one-handed), it has two pairs of 'Up' and 'Down' throttle buttons changing the speed setting by +/- 1 or +/- 10 steps (which I find very handy).  Additionally, I haven't had a decoder that the PowerCab hasn't been able to read (and I have decoders by Lenz, ESU, Zimo, LaisDCC, Bachmann, Hornby, Gaugemaster, Hattons, TCS and Direct Train Automation).

 

One final thought - when visiting model railway shows there are lots of layouts powered by NCE PowerCab (and the upgraded ProCab) systems as well as Lenz, Roco and the like.  I havent seen many powered by the Gaugemaster Prodigy - maybe half a dozen out of 150+ layouts.  Just a thought.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Art

Edited March 12, 2019 by Art Dent
Additional information

[tigerburnie]

Thanks guys, just the information I require, as I'm now retired I would like to do a "buy once" scenario, rather than take a chance kind of thing, I don't have the budget for top of the range and to be honest reading what some of you are saying, I don't actually need the capabilities of some of the top of the range either, the NCE unit is on my radar, so to speak.

[john new]

On 26/02/2019 at 16:40, Phil S said:

An answer needs to be self-complete - especially if read out-of-context  or sequence - and  especially where 'safety' may become involved.

The reader is always entitled to skip read parts or the entirety !  It is not done to 'show off' - but make relevant information available. Posts are also read by other than the OP - and as  is often commented, the OP frequently omits essential details such as gauge etc.

 

Sometimes it is necessary to counter errors in terminology: most frequently 'Power District' perhaps, and Polarity - where Phase is more appropriate for an ac signal (and then we get the readers who insist that dcc is a dc signal !!)  Perhaps 'red and black' wires are best avoided to avoid confusion with 'dc''s positive and negative - although if applied literally on analogue, such a train would only run one way 8-)

 

When converting an existing analogue layout to digital; don't forget to remove any capacitors fitted to track-power feeds!

(Commercial power feeds NEED these, to comply with interference regulations - even if many 'home-builds' omit them 8-)

If left in, they become an effective short circuit of the (ac) digital signal. [ Do not confuse with any capacitors inside locos/after decoders! ]

 

[A POWER DISTRICT has its OWN power source: Multiple Power Districts:-  EACH have their own independent Power Supplies. Isolation between POWER DISTRICTS MUST be of both rails.   SUB-DISTRICTS are 'isolatable sections' WITHIN a 'Power District' (EG The Central Controller, or 2nd 'Power Supply+Booster' - and although they MAY be isolated only on 1 rail, it is 'better' to gap both. 

'Sub-Districts' are useful to separate parts of the layout - for example for fault-finding, or current limitation (EG with PSX circuit breakers - and is most common to separate 'the 'accessory bus' from the 'track' (or tracks busses/sub-sections) - thus avoiding the problem of a track short circuit such as a derailment, or obstruction, preventing points and signals  from being changed - hopefully clearing 'the problem'.

An analogy is to the FUSE BOX for your mains wiring: 1 Incoming Feed, separated and protected by breakers into low-limit sub-('districts')

 

Whilst a 'small' layout is unlikely to need 'Multiple Power Districts';  they may well benefit from SUB-DISTRICTS including the separation of track and dcc-controlled Accessories. HOW MUCH power is also dependent on a variety of factors.  MANY System controllers can offer 3-5A maximum. IF POINTS (solenoids) are powered from a separate (eg 16Vac) power supply - even though dcc controlled by accessory decoder, they do not add to the total dcc power needed.  Equally 'size' does not matter - but how many locos, sound fitted locos, and illuminated coaches are likely to be in use at any time.  Mainline or Country Branch might be a better observation.   GRADIENTS - which perhaps feature rarely on most UK layouts, add a considerable current demand increasing with train length/weight. [Triang layouts used to be designed, with Magnadhesion, to climb a gradient allowing an overpass on an oval layout .. which is also why their buffer height was higher - for clearance]

 

CURRENT CARRYING CAPABILITY of your wiring:  Faults can and do occur - a factor of life. The aim should be to minimise the risk to life etc.

Wiring appropriate for a '1 Amp' layout section (a typical analogue scenario) may not be appropriate for use under DCC if a 3 -5 Amp system is installed !!  (Would you wire a kettle with a lamp's twin flex ?? - hopefully not).   BUT if each sub-section is protected by a cutout (eg PSX/ circuit breaker set at 1-2A)  then there need be no problem retaining the original '1 A' wiring.   THE TEST is often known as 'the coin test' - it is simply to apply a short circuit at ANY part of the track/section/district, and ensure that the nearest CUT OUT ( Central Controller or more-local circuit breaker ) trips - preferably leaving everything else running.

 

COMPLICATED OR REPETITIVE ??  DCC  [or CANbus etc] can be used to control accessories - independently of the track power/control system:-  Perhaps in the eye of the viewer -  Is it 'complicated' to use the idea of  a 'module' or box fed with '2 wires' (and possibly external power), located conveniently nearby, which then has several sets of [3 wires]  going to point motors ... all using the same 3 colours eg Red,Black, Green, .... now repeat at the next junction.. and the next  ....  and when you get to 130 you'll be practiced 8-)

The alternative is to wire back to a central location, each with 2 or 3 wires, and a unique path - which may cross several 'board joins'....8-(

The DCC/ control bus approach also makes modifications of the layout at any time in the future a practical idea, rather than a nightmare.
 

--- cut section (loco chipping) ---

 

THE FUNDAMENTAL CHOICES - which may need some 'research' if coming from 'analogue': are the preferences of fixed-position operation or the flexibility to move freely and wirelessly around a layout - in which case control of accessories from the handset/device becomes of more interest.   IT IS ALSO A TOTALLY SEPARATE PROGRESSION to go as far as 'Computer Control' - it is not compulsory, but many like it or SOME little bit of 'automation'.

 

Sadly the type of explanation that deters switchers from analogue to digital.

 

So is what you are saying - basically where you have sections in DC you do the same with DCC and if you are using two main power sources they have to be completely isolated off from each other with double track gaps?

Edited March 12, 2019 by john new

[john new]

On 26/02/2019 at 20:10, Izzy said:

 

...... (Cut) ...When I first went DCC it was with a DC layout, which was ‘converted’ by taking out the DC  feed, putting in the DCC, and leaving all the section switches on. I did of course put chips in the locos......

 

So I would suggest you wire the track basically as you would have for DC, just joining all the ‘sections’ together as one big one by using the bus bar and droppers.

 

Izzy

 

Thank you. It was what I guessed to be the case but had not seen written so simply before.

 

So is as a sensible progression (for those like me with lots of elderly locos and some DCC ready recently bought one's):-

 

1) wire as normal for DC. Sections switched BUT adding wires to both the switched and non-switched rails.

2) make an option for swapping the control gear at some time in the future from analogue to DCC.

 

I don't want sound but am aware that DCC locos, especially with stay alive (digital flywheels) fitted run better under DCC than the same locos on DC.

 

My outstanding query - will a DCC chipped loco just run OK on DC bypassing the digital commands or do you have to set them up that way?  I ask as obviously step 3 to the above is add chips now to the DCC ready locos to keep my eventual conversion costs manageable. I am realistic enough to think at some point DCC factory chipped locos will be cheaper than those where the chips have been taken out; or we have to de-chip them ourselves. It may be a few years before I switch, but I anticipate that the switch will come at some time. 

[Ron Ron Ron]

13 minutes ago, john new said:

.......

1) wire as normal for DC. Sections switched BUT adding wires to both the switched and non-switched rails.

2) make an option for swapping the control gear at some time in the future from analogue to DCC.........

 

 

.....My outstanding query - will a DCC chipped loco just run OK on DC bypassing the digital commands or do you have to set them up that way?  ........

 

Just make sure that the wiring is suitably rated for use with DCC.

 

New DCC decoders normally come with the ability to run under DC, already set up.

This can be switched off or on, in the CV settings.

Many DCC users switch DC running off, so if obtaining a used decoder or a  secondhand loco with a decoder already fitted, you will have to check this and adjust for DC operation as necessary.

 

Decoders don’t get on at all with certain types of DC controller (e.g. feedback types) and (VERY IMPORTANT) should not be put on DC powered layouts where Relco or other brand, so called “track cleaners”, are employed. These will destroy the decoders.

[tigerburnie]

It looks like the forums software has gone mad, I don't think these last three posts are supposed to be here??

[john new]

23 minutes ago, Ron Ron Ron said:

 

Just make sure that the wiring is suitably rated for use with DCC.

 

New DCC decoders normally come with the ability to run under DC, already set up.

This can be switched off or on, in the CV settings.

Many DCC users switch DC running off, so if obtaining a used decoder or a  secondhand loco with a decoder already fitted, you will have to check this and adjust for DC operation as necessary.

 

Decoders don’t get on at all with certain types of DC controller (e.g. feedback types) and (VERY IMPORTANT) should not be put on DC powered layouts where Relco or other brand, so called “track cleaners”, are employed. These will destroy the decoders.

 

1) So you need to buy, or know someone with, an existing DCC controller set up in order to make sure the DCC fitted loco is set for DC.

2) No longer use my RELCOs. Are the Gaugemaster Combi, and similar era panel mounted and boxed controllers OK with the modern chips? They are what I have for my DC set-up. Reason for asking this is the track on my shunting plank is down and about to be wired to a panel.

 

Will be using thickish cable anyway to avoid breakages. DC for now but with option for every section to be switched to on will be DCC ready for the future. Points will stay analogue, stud and probe on this but the Cobalt range very nearly convinced me that this layout would be my first DCC foray. Cost of new - v - recycling what I had in stock was final arbiter.

 

 

[john new]

8 minutes ago, tigerburnie said:

It looks like the forums software has gone mad, I don't think these last three posts are supposed to be here??

Why not? Exactly relevant as I am someone like you considering whether now, on my new layout, is the time to begin conversion to DCC by actually putting chips into my DCC ready locos, but to run in the short-term on analogue.

 

They are all on topic, i.e assisting a confused potential DCC beginner (as per your first post) get his 60+ year old head around DCC. Isn't that the whole point of the thread title?

Edited March 12, 2019 by john new
Correction for clarity

[tigerburnie]

Thanks for your input John, just I was in the middle of discussing merits of a couple of controllers at the time and that content threw me. Just for info, I am a retired engineer(electronic and mechanical), who spent over a decade in the automotive industry installing, maintaining and programming digital control systems, primarily plc's from the likes of Siemens and Allen Bradley. It's not the principal I know nothing about, it's the equipment in the hobby and it's application I am interested in, whilst making a thread to contribute to the beginners road to a basic level. On a small layout with sound as the prime driver for choosing DCC, using a "good basic control system" one that doesn't need(or even want) connection to a pc, laptop or tablet. Shall we say a stage above the entry level that Hornby might offer for example, a "plug and play" that you can grow with, now no single system may actually be available to do that yet. I did contemplate the idea of using a plc and writing a program where you could press a start button and from a choice of programs could actually run the whole layout, but decided that might just be missing the point of playing trains.

[Ron Ron Ron]

Back to your basic requirements.

For a modest or small and relatively simple layout, you don’t really need more than a straight forward, mid-priced DCC solution.

 

For sound, beware that accessing function controls to activate various sounds, can be quite cumbersome on some systems.

 

The better systems for activating sound effects, have the ability to configure individual function buttons to either be latching (select for on and then select again for off), or momentary or non-latching (just press once for the sound effect).

Think about it like a car’s horn.

Imagine if the car horn was latching and you had to turn it off again after sounding it.

Then relate that to a loco’s whistle or horn.

 

Older systems, particularly the US made systems (e.g. Digitrax, NCE, MRC a.k.a. Gaugemaster) usually only allow for one momentary function.

 

Some of the latest systems allow for all function controls to be configured as you prefer, latching or non- latching.

Those with glass screens allow you to re-position the most commonly function buttons, so they are more readily accessible.

That usually involves more £££££.

 

Ron

Edited March 12, 2019 by Ron Ron Ron

[Pete the Elaner]

5 hours ago, john new said:

 

1) So you need to buy, or know someone with, an existing DCC controller set up in order to make sure the DCC fitted loco is set for DC.

2) No longer use my RELCOs. Are the Gaugemaster Combi, and similar era panel mounted and boxed controllers OK with the modern chips? They are what I have for my DC set-up. Reason for asking this is the track on my shunting plank is down and about to be wired to a panel.

 

 

 

 

1. Either that or just try it. Disabling DC can sometimes cure a problem like the loco shooting off at full speed after a short circuit has been cleared. Some people disable it as a routine, but others do not.

2. What colour are your Gaugemaster controllers? Black ones have feedback. Decoders do not like these. The cream-coloured ones are ok. I have occasionally seen red Gaugemaster controllers but I have no idea what this range is for. I think the combi is a cream one isn't it?

 

DCC locos on DC have a slightly higher start voltage on than those without, but some claim they actually run better than non-fitted locos. I can't vouch for this because I can't remember the last time I ran one of my locos on DC.

[john new]

One of the problems for beginners is knowing what is the first building brick to get.

 

Example - https://www.hattons.co.uk/25701/Hornby_R1125_Somerset_Belle_train_set_with_Class_3F_0_6_0_S_DJR_0_6_0_steam_loco_3_wagons_D/StockDetail.aspx at £80 off the RRP (£130 actual) looks a good deal for a turn-key DCC starter system.

 

However, people say it is a rubbish controller. But, is it something you can learn the basics with and then swap in a replacement later. In analogue terms the Hornby starter controllers are awful (But do at a pinch for beginners), but any layout wiring etc., and the associated skills are not wasted by adding a better controller later. I use Gaugemaster's. Assuming a walk about style set up (GM Combi for example) so no physical fit issues then for an analogue system to upgrade is just disconnect the two wires feeding the panel, to disconnect the Hornby one, and re-connect the two wires to the new controller instead. All other hardware is unaffected.

 

In DCC is it similar? Say someone buys the Somerset Belle set today, then later when they've learnt more they change their controlling system to whatever appears best at the time, is everything bought pre-change over written off or just a transfer over? I appreciate every loco would need adding to the new control systems database, but would all the chips etc., need altering and reprogramming too?

Edited March 13, 2019 by john new

[john new]

8 hours ago, Pete the Elaner said:

What colour are your Gaugemaster controllers? Black ones have feedback. Decoders do not like these. The cream-coloured ones are ok. I have occasionally seen red Gaugemaster controllers but I have no idea what this range is for. I think the combi is a cream one isn't it?

 

DCC locos on DC have a slightly higher start voltage on than those without, but some claim they actually run better than non-fitted locos. I can't vouch for this because I can't remember the last time I ran one of my locos on DC.

 

All mine are cream faced. The small layout uses a Combi.  I have a four outlet boxed transformer/controller for another layout that is in store currently PLUS a single knob panel mount and two additional twin knob panel mounts (controllers only). The panel mounts have separate transformer feeding. (Layout they were used with no longer extant but panel box not yet dismantled) 

 

Part of the swap to DCC concern for existing modellers is the writing off of what you've already invested in. 

Edited March 13, 2019 by john new

[Nigelcliffe]

7 hours ago, john new said:

One of the problems for beginners is knowing what is the first building brick to get.

 

Example - https://www.hattons.co.uk/25701/Hornby_R1125_Somerset_Belle_train_set_with_Class_3F_0_6_0_S_DJR_0_6_0_steam_loco_3_wagons_D/StockDetail.aspx at £80 off the RRP (£130 actual) looks a good deal for a turn-key DCC starter system.

 

However, people say it is a rubbish controller. But, is it something you can learn the basics with and then swap in a replacement later. In analogue terms the Hornby starter controllers are awful (But do at a pinch for beginners), but any layout wiring etc., and the associated skills are not wasted by adding a better controller later. .................

 

7 hours ago, john new said:

 

...............

Part of the swap to DCC concern for existing modellers is the writing off of what you've already invested in. 

 

If the loco in the starter set is one you want, or one you're happy to use for experiments, then the starter system has its uses.  They can be a bargain (lots of people have bought Roco starter sets in the past for the low-priced DCC controller).  BUT, people say the Select is a poor (to rubbish) controller for a number of reasons.  Some are technical at the back-end (quality of DCC signal, number of features supported), but some are user-interface (number and sequence of button pushes to achieve anything).     The back-end stuff might be easily ignored by someone starting out and intending to replace it - they may never bump into the issues - , but will they ignore the user interface issues, or assume that all systems are the same when it comes to button sequences to achieve results ? 

 

And, you then wrote about the concern about writing off stuff invested already.   Well, you are almost certain to have to write-off the Select controller, and may (depending on your modelling interests) also write off the loco.    A decision for you to resolve.    One approach to write-off kit is to express it in terms of fags, booze or coffee to gain knowledge.   If you smoke, how many cigarettes ?  Drink how many pints ? Or use coffee shops, how many coffees with frothy milk ?     

 

 

 

( There are really cheap ways of trying DCC, but they involve a computer as the user interface to the control system.  Cheapest is well below £20, but requires a modest amount of computer/electronics nerdy-ness.  Less knowledge/skill/effort is around £60.   ). 

 

 

- Nigel

[RedgateModels]

In defence of the Select it was my entry point into the world of DCC and whilst I have since moved on to a Powercab for exhibition use etc the Select still is being used on my son's train set. Kids "get it" really quickly at shows with a couple of locos to control on his layout. Press 1, press Select, drive loco1. Press 2, press Select, drive loco2 ..

 

 

 

So my initial investment of 40 odd quid from eBay over 10 years ago is still being used and will continue to be used as George progresses 🙂

Edited July 29, 2022 by RedgateModels

[Art Dent]

Hi John,

 

The Hornby Select is a 'cheap-as-chips' DCC controller but has some issues.

 

1) as Nigel said above, the DCC signal waveform is awful (the DCC waveform is a square wave which is pulse width modulated) as it exhibits a LOT of ringing on the leading edge.

 

2) The cheaper Hornby controllers (= Select) are not fully DCC compliant as far as I understand which may cause issues with some loco/decoder combinations.

 

As a 'starter set' they are fine but unless you have children/grandchildren under 5, their simplicity of operation will soon be outgrown,

 

I bought a similar Bachmann Starter Set which included Bachmann's equivalent to the select (although perhaps a tad more basic still as the Bachmann version has no display).  Without reading the instructions, the 'layout' was up and running within five minutes from opening the box which included laying the oval of track.  It really is as simple as plug in & go.  However, the functionality is VERY limited (9 loco control) bell, headlight and DC running and it was very soon outgrown as my second purchase was a sound-fitted Class 25 and the Bachmann controller couldn't access all of the sounds.

 

Very quickly this was replaced by a different system.

 

I thought about keeping the simple Bachmann kit controller for my grandson (currently 3) to use but now he's been shown how to select and run a loco on my NCE PowerCab, the Bachmann controller is still sitting in the box, unused!  Young kids pick up and retain information better than a dry sponge picks up and retains water.

 

Hope this helps

 

Art

[john new]

Thanks for the feedback. The last few posts above have really helped refine my options.

• £130 (or thereabouts) for an entry level Hornby set, but probably without a long term future for the controller. Stock that would be OK but not fit the current project without a repaint. Plus an oval of track I don't need.
• £154 (or thereabouts) - NCE Powercab

The most recent locos I have bought are DCC ready (A Peckett, a Q6 and a K1 - possibly others too); they will need chips but that is the same which ever control system I buy. I may also have at least one working chip already, provided some cut wires are reconnected, as it came out of a 2nd hand loco that had been bodge wired. (See this thread ) For me therefore the best option does seem to be spend slightly more for the better controller, plus some chips, and forget the starter set route. That has effectively been bypassed.

 

Does the NCE Powercab pack have everything needed other than the chips for the locos? For example - 

• do you still need it connected to a laptop or tablet and if that is the case does it work with Apple kit?
• What about cut out devices?

 

Edited March 13, 2019 by john new
Corrected punctuation.

[RedgateModels]

14 minutes ago, john new said:

Does the NCE Powercab pack have everything needed other than the chips for the locos? For example - 

• do you still need it connected to a laptop or tablet and if that is the case does it work with Apple kit?
• What about cut out devices?

 

No it does not need to be connected to a laptop etc. It just works out of the box.

It should be connected to a cut out device as it does not respond very well to short circuits. I use the MERG DCO (KIt 57), but you have to be a member and build it yourself ...

An Auto-SW from NCE is also a good idea so you can have a dedicated programming track that automatically switches when you select that mode on the handset

Edited March 13, 2019 by RedgateModels

[Art Dent]

Hi John,

 

As Redgate said no pc/laptop connection required.  It is a stand-alone system and everything you need is in the box.

 

Wall transformer (actually a switch-mode PSU), connecting faceplate (power cable and throttle plug in, wired connection to track) and walk-around/handheld throttle.

 

As Redgate said, it is good practice to have some sort of short-circuit protection although the DCC command station (in NCE's case, the actual hand-held throttle) has basic short-circuit protection which trips to protect the system and any short should be remedied as soon as possible to prevent damage (this applies to several different makes of DCC controllers, not just the NCE PowerCab).

 

I still do not have any short-circuit protection save for that in-built on my oval test track and haven't needed it yet.  Thinking of the PowerShield PSX-4 (I am planning a large loft layout) but a simple one would do.  Interestingly, NCE's EB1 Circuit Breaker (around £25) is not recommended for use with the PowerCab.

 

Also, I ment to mention previously, it is better not to run a DCC-chipped loco on DC - even if that capability is stated by the decoder manufacturer and has been enabled in CV29.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Art