O Gauge Hunslet 0-6-0T kit build

[Ray H]

I have purchased several small O gauge locos in recent years. Some have been RTR, some (already built) kits and one a kit (and the first) that I built myself. All have been dcc sound fitted and can be used on my small O gauge layout Puzzel Yard and on the much larger club's layout.

 

I decided late last year that I felt like trying another kit and this thread is (hopefully) going to detail how I've progressed the build.

 

I've bought a Poppy Woodtech loco building jig in the hope that it might aid me in keeping the frames square - it may also encourage me to build further kits in due course!

 

I've got as far as reaming out the holes for the axle bushes in the frames and fitting said frames (complete with axle bushes) and the two primary spacers into the jig.

 

 

Coincidentally the rulers shown above just fit between the jig sides and the outsides of the frames and have been placed there to try to keep the frame sides straight. The two frame spacers at either end of the frames have tabs and slots whereas the two optional spacers either side of the centre axle have just been placed there to makes sure that the rulers weren't pushing the frames out of vertical..

 

The jig comes with three - the position of two of which are adjustable - rods each with threaded ends. I presumed that coupling rods should fit over these threaded rod ends but have found that the holes in the provided coupling rods are too small. The diameter of the rig's threaded rod ends seem to be the same as the diameter of the bushes that come with the Slater's wheels so it looks as though the rod holes need to be enlarged. I just need to check that the broaches I have in stock are large enough.

 

 

More concerning is the varying sizes of the holes in the coupling rods. There's definitely two size differences. There could even be three but that may just be the way the camera is positioned.

 

More later.

[doilum]

Just curious, which loco?

[Ray H]

50550 Hunslet 0-6-0T.

[doilum]

2 hours ago, Ray H said:

50550 Hunslet 0-6-0T.

Will this be a fictitious freelance or one of the original eight? 

S112 had the rear frames trimmed and a conventional buffer beam fitted to allow for the mechanical stoker.

[Shez]

Look forward to following this. Memories of footplates rides on NCB Hunslets as a kid. 63 and 48 at Manvers Main. 

[doilum]

4 hours ago, Ray H said:

I have purchased several small O gauge locos in recent years. Some have been RTR, some (already built) kits and one a kit (and the first) that I built myself. All have been dcc sound fitted and can be used on my small O gauge layout Puzzel Yard and on the much larger club's layout.

 

I decided late last year that I felt like trying another kit and this thread is (hopefully) going to detail how I've progressed the build.

 

I've bought a Poppy Woodtech loco building jig in the hope that it might aid me in keeping the frames square - it may also encourage me to build further kits in due course!

 

I've got as far as reaming out the holes for the axle bushes in the frames and fitting said frames (complete with axle bushes) and the two primary spacers into the jig.

 

 

Coincidentally the rulers shown above just fit between the jig sides and the outsides of the frames and have been placed there to try to keep the frame sides straight. The two frame spacers at either end of the frames have tabs and slots whereas the two optional spacers either side of the centre axle have just been placed there to makes sure that the rulers weren't pushing the frames out of vertical..

 

The jig comes with three - the position of two of which are adjustable - rods each with threaded ends. I presumed that coupling rods should fit over these threaded rod ends but have found that the holes in the provided coupling rods are too small. The diameter of the rig's threaded rod ends seem to be the same as the diameter of the bushes that come with the Slater's wheels so it looks as though the rod holes need to be enlarged. I just need to check that the broaches I have in stock are large enough.

 

 

More concerning is the varying sizes of the holes in the coupling rods. There's definitely two size differences. There could even be three but that may just be the way the camera is positioned.

 

More later.

I wouldn't worry too much about the coupling rod holes. Once the axles are in place the rods can be checked for exact wheel base. Any tiny adjustments can be made with a round file. This will grate with engineers who swear by the broach but the engineers approach assumes everything was perfectly measured in the first place. Old school kits shouldn't be far out but don't expect perfection either. Once you are happy that the wheel base of the rods is correct, the broach can be used to ensure they are circular and correct size.

Eventually I will get round to upgrading ,S112 and my earlier Austerities to 10ba crankpins which are a much neater solution.

[Ray H]

I got as far as temporarily fitting the axles & wheels today having fixed axle bushes and spacers in place.

 

The first axle was a little stiff so I did a little work with some 800 grit emery which seemed to improve things. I fitted the two outer axles first and eventually had them moving quite freely. Alas, once the centre axle was added I had a surprise. The outer two axles and their wheels happily rotated as the assembly paraded itself along my test track. Regrettably  the centre axle (and its wheels) stayed mainly stationary. Pooh (and stronger words)!

 

However, that wasn't the only problem. I decided to remove the centre axle prior to also removing the two associated bushes and slightly enlarging the holes in the frames to drop the axle slightly. It was then that I noticed that I'd assembled the frame inside out! (More naughty words).

 

I spent the rest of the afternoon unsoldering everything and cleaning bits and pieces. I've just got the axle bushes to clean/burnish  and then I can start re-assembly.

 

This time I shall only tack solder everything until I know everything is well.

[doilum]

Don't forget the pickups. If you want plungers this would be a good time to drill the pilot holes.

[Ray H]

Thanks for that.

 

I'm not intending to use plungers (and certainly wouldn't trust myself to drill holes in the right place for them anyway).

 

I've still got the axles bushes to clean up this morning before the re-build can start.

 

I did find that in my ignorance I'd failed to remove the burrs when I reamed out the holes for the axle bushes which may have had some impact on how the bushes sat in the frames.

 

I've exchanged a couple of emails with Anthony from Poppy Woodtech over the last couple of days and he has given me some guidance so thanks must go to him.

[rope runner]

Your coupling rods are incorrect for a 50550, they should have the bearings secured with a gib and cotter. 

 

Might be worth an email to Trevor at Mercian, I know he does the correct type with his 4mm kit so should do them in 7mm too. 

 

Paul A. 

[Ray H]

Thanks for that.

 

There are two sorts of coupling rod in the kit. The ones shown above and those with corners rather than rounded ends.

 

I chose the rounded ones but am not adverse at this stage to changing them.

 

This is very much going to be a freelance loco but I suppose it would be good if I can keep reasonably true to the real locos.

[doilum]

The second set are provided to get you started on your first scratch build.

[Ray H]

I've used the second set of coupling rods and left them as four "halves" - two for each side.

 

The frame spacers and axle bearings have been re-seated and the motor fitted temporarily (as have the wheels).

 

The chassis has been running back and forth along a length of track this afternoon in dc mode with the output from an aged Duette - my sole dc source - connected direct to the motor terminals.

 

Confident that all seems OK thus far, I now plan to complete the remaining work on the chassis before I put it to one side to attend to something else for my mate Jim.

[doilum]

What ever pickups you choose try and get them fully sorted before thinking about the DCC installation. A Duette is my standard bench poet source too.

[Ray H]

Yes, that's my intention although my access to a dc based layout is non-existent so I'll have to rely on a rolling road to get some miles in!

[doilum]

A yard of track on a plank. I wired up a display stand I originally made for a club show. It allows me to get up close and observe what is really going on.

[Ray H]

I happened to glance at the stage 1 (Chassis) instructions again the other day and noticed that I'd fitted the axle bushes with the shoulders on the outside which was contrary to what I had just noticed. I was a bit dubious about the suggested arrangement because it looked as though this would stop the wheels locating correctly on the axles/increase the back to back of the wheels. Nonetheless I removed and reversed the said bushes.

 

My fears were soon confirmed so the bushes were put back the way that I first had them. I've decided to install some washers between the backs of the wheels and the axle bush shoulders to reduce the side play.

 

The kit comes with several etches, one of nickel silver, the rest of brass. It also included 6 lost wax castings of brake shoes. I scanned the etches for the brake parts referenced in the drawing showing the assembly procedure and initially could only find five (instead of six) of one of the two parts and three of the other (again, instead of six) so I decided that the etched parts weren't required as the supplied cast components were what were to be used.

 

Wrong!

 

The holes in the frames don't align with the castings and even enlarging one of each casting's pair of required holes wouldn't go anywhere near allowing the castings to be used (unless the wheels were permanently removed!).

 

Once again and purely by chance I then noticed the missing etch parts on the solitary nickel silver etch so with all etched parts now located I have reverted to using the etched parts for the brakes.

 

The one down side of this is that removing the wheels to, for example, add the washers to the axles, requires the brake shoe components to be temporarily removed as they foul the wheel flanges.

 

I found another oddity each time that I've had cause to remove/insert the axle bushes. That is that the centre axle's holes in the frames seems very slightly higher than the other two axle holes. I had to ream out each of the six axle holes and whilst I'll admit that I might have been a bit heavy handed with the reamer on the first couple of holes on one side, the axle bushes were virtually a friction fit in the remaining four holes. Obviously I can't swear that it's not my fault but the fact that the problem is on the opposite pair of holes suggest to me that the etch might be adrift.

 

The two holes concerned have had a visit from the file in an attempt to lower the relevant bushes but the problem still exists so I've left things as they are for the time being lest I really muck things up. My hope is that the wheels on the other axles will soon wear slightly thereby reducing their diameter such that they will sit a little lower in their bushes. It does mean that the pick-ups on the middle wheels are a bit superfluous at present.

[Barclay]

Hi Ray - it was once quite common for manufacturers to supply 6-coupled chassis frames with the centre axle slightly high to prevent see-sawing on track bumps. As you say it basically turns it into an 0-4-0 and I don't think it's a good idea at all. I would be inclined to lower the centre bearings if you can until all 6 wheels sit level on a flat plate of glass or whatever.

[doilum]

16 minutes ago, Barclay said:

Hi Ray - it was once quite common for manufacturers to supply 6-coupled chassis frames with the centre axle slightly high to prevent see-sawing on track bumps. As you say it basically turns it into an 0-4-0 and I don't think it's a good idea at all. I would be inclined to lower the centre bearings if you can until all 6 wheels sit level on a flat plate of glass or whatever.

Agree. Assuming that you have jointed rods allow the middle axle to float slightly. This may be affected by your choice of motor. Whilst most of my Hunslets use a 1833 Mashima and simple 40:1 fold up gearbox on the rear axle ( the motor is vertical), S112 and S134 have the Canon / ABC driving the centre axle. Performance wise very similar the ABC is quieter in both directions.

Inspired by the famous quote from Brian Clough (" on paper this was the best team in the world, but unfortunately football is not played on paper..") I have moved on from the plate glass to a short length of Peco track on a piece of glass. This ensures that the tread of the wheels are level.

The brake hanger issue seems to recall similar memories.

[Ray H]

One of the etches has a date stamp of 1994 and of a different company so that may account for the slight alignment variation.

 

The washers that I ordered from Slaters haven't yet arrived but I will need to take the wheels and axles out of the two unpowered axles so perhaps I can take the file to the centre axle's holes tomorrow whilst I'm awaiting the washers thereby killing two birds with one stone as they say.

 

Edited to add: No actual birds will be harmed during this activity!

[Ray H]

The washers arrived last week and were soon fitted.

 

The chassis runs well along my yard & a bit of test track and has had a little time on a rolling road. All of phase 1 - the chassis - is now complete and I've made a start on the running plate.

 

I started off with pick-ups (soldered to inverse PCB as suggested in the instructions) rubbing on the tops of the wheel treads. I couldn't get them to stay put - although on reflection they should do with the running plate in position - so I've gone for PCB strip soldered to the top of the frames with the pick-ups rubbing on the wheel backs. It certain runs better like that.

 

I've laminated the three pieces for the buffer beams and fixed them to the ends of the running plate. I've chosen to do all the remaining work to the buffer beams both front and back before I add the cast buffers. In fact I may well leave adding the buffers until the build is nearer to completion.

 

The gussets can just be seen affixed to the rear of the buffer beams. Each had to be re-shaped to fit around the verticals at the end of the chassis.

 

 

I shall be fitting Dingham's couplings in due course, once the loco is painted.

Edited March 15, 2021 by Ray H

[Ray H]

I've spent a reasonable amount of time on the loco today although you'd never guess that from the limited amount of progress that I've made.

 

I've assembled all four steps but have followed the advice in the instructions to leave fitting the rear ones until after the cab has been assembled on the running plate.

 

The instructions say the support brackets were added next. In the absence of any other directions I have had to guess where they go. Having switched over to having the pick-ups rubbing on the back of the wheels I had to modify the shape of one support bracket on each side - the instructions do suggest that might be necessary with the intend mounting of the pick-ups.

 

There's mention of fitting the sand box fillers but the part number is not indicated and I couldn't find just one item that looked like what I imagined (from the drawing) let alone the four.

 

The rear sander operation bracket is another mystery as I could neither match the part with that shown in the drawing nor completely understand what was supposed to be done with it. In the end I've done what I think is a believable fix and hope nobody looks too closely at it.

[Ray H]

The instructions say "Solder safety valve structures in place (18) (19) and solder in safety valves."

 

I've identified the uppermost three white metal castings in the picture below and presume them to be the required pieces. Is that correct? There is a third. much smaller hole just in front of the two larger holes in the base casting but no obvious item to go into it. Does anyone have any idea what this hole might be used for and, if so, what should I be looking for in the kit? Could it be the whistle?

 

I further guess that the other two castings are the Mechanical Lubricator (on the left) and the Brake cylinder (on the right). Is that also correct?  I haven't as yet, found mention of either in the instructions other than in the supplied parts list.

 

 

The following picture shows the state of play at the end of today. There are a few other pieces to add as part of Stage 3 - Tank & Boiler - which might get done tomorrow. The lower boiler barrel is just visible and currently only resting in its place. That will need part cut away before being fixed in place to accommodate the motor which is lying horizontal between the frames as can be seen in the image I added a couple of posts back. I think the firebox front will need similar treatment.

 

[Marshall5]

Probably for the whistle as you thought.

Ray.

[Ray H]

Thanks.

 

I'd started drafting my previous post based on what parts I thought were still in the box and without scanning the kit's list of contacts in detail.

 

I need to re-check the lost wax casting bag to confirm that the listed whistle is hiding amongst the lost wax brake blocks that I shan't be using.