Lead Flashing

[clickertyclack]

Hi Guys,

Having nearly finished my first card structure using Scalescenes papers, I would like to represent lead flashing on the roof.

Anybody know a way I can represent this? Would apreciate your ideas.

 

Clickertyclack

[Chubber]

Hi Guys,

Having nearly finished my first card structure using Scalescenes papers, I would like to represent lead flashing on the roof.

Anybody know a way I can represent this? Would apreciate your ideas.

 

Clickertyclack

 

Hi, CC, John does a flashing download TXOOb, but I feel it is inaccurate in one respect. The 'zig-zag' bit goes on the side [upright] bit but flashing makes a straight line on the flat roof surface where it tucks under tiles. Not a problem as the download can adequately be trimmed to suit, and there is a piece of plain 'lead' sheet useful for valleys between roofs and hips etc.

 

 

 

 

 

Good luck,

 

Doug

[amdaley]

Hi Guys,

Having nearly finished my first card structure using Scalescenes papers, I would like to represent lead flashing on the roof.

Anybody know a way I can represent this? Would apreciate your ideas.

 

Clickertyclack

 

Haven't done it myself but if I was to I would try tinfoil which comes in a couple of different thickness's. The stuff used for the turkey at Christmas might do.You could try paint it a grayish color before fitting it

[meple]

Hi Guys,

Having nearly finished my first card structure using Scalescenes papers, I would like to represent lead flashing on the roof.

Anybody know a way I can represent this? Would apreciate your ideas.

 

Clickertyclack

 

 

Just remember the lead goes under the tiles/slates not on top. You only see the lead flashing on the verticle brickwork

[Nick Holliday]

Meple

Don't immediately change your flashings. Although I suspect you are technically correct, in practice the flashing, at least nowadays, goes over the tiles/slates, as this picture http://www.builderbill-diy-help.com/image-files/stepped-lead-flashing.jpg shows. Even if you do decide to go for the flashing under the tiles, the last part of the cloak would need to be over the top of the next line of tiles after the chimney stack.

 

I used Tamiya masking tape, sprayed with Holts primer to get a lead colour, for my attempt at flashings, to make use of the adhesive quality and flexibility to allow pressing it into the angles.

[Chubber]

Meple

Don't immediately change your flashings. Although I suspect you are technically correct, in practice the flashing, at least nowadays, goes over the tiles/slates, as this picture http://www.builderbi...ad-flashing.jpg shows. Even if you do decide to go for the flashing under the tiles, the last part of the cloak would need to be over the top of the next line of tiles after the chimney stack.

 

I used Tamiya masking tape, sprayed with Holts primer to get a lead colour, for my attempt at flashings, to make use of the adhesive quality and flexibility to allow pressing it into the angles.

 

I think this is what you are referring to, I don't think I 'm going to change it. Simply cut the zig-zags off one side as I have done....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(too late!...)

[meple]

Meple

Don't immediately change your flashings. Although I suspect you are technically correct, in practice the flashing, at least nowadays, goes over the tiles/slates, as this picture http://www.builderbi...ad-flashing.jpg shows. Even if you do decide to go for the flashing under the tiles, the last part of the cloak would need to be over the top of the next line of tiles after the chimney stack.

 

I used Tamiya masking tape, sprayed with Holts primer to get a lead colour, for my attempt at flashings, to make use of the adhesive quality and flexibility to allow pressing it into the angles.

 

Yes the front apron goes over the slates but everything else goes underneath. see here: http://www.gifford-park-assoc.org/Flashing%20a%20chimney%20the%20right%20way.pdf

 

"at least nowadays, goes over the tiles/slates" - not if it's done properly it dosen't.

[Campaman]

For flashing I use a fine textured masking tape pre-coloured using a 4B pencil, and then cut to shape before applying.

 

I stick a length down on my cutting mat colour it with the pencil then cut out the shape using my scapel before applying, usually with tweezers.

[clickertyclack]

Hi Gents,

Many thanks for your comments and ideas.I didn't realise lead flashing was such an involved subject!

A bit wiser now.

Had thought about using tin foil but discounted it. I think that applying paint to it (even a primer) would be problamatic. Nothing for the paint to 'key' to and posibly peeling.Also a tendency for the paint to dry on the surface i.e not binding to it. Masking tape a possibility.

Thanks for the pics and comments Doug, impressive will give it a go.

Thanks lads.

 

CC

[Scalescenes]

I didn't realise lead flashing was such an involved subject!

 

 

Neither did I, I have reworked this sheet a couple times now, everyone seems to have a slightly different idea as to how flashing should be. Luckily, as Doug mentions, the pack includes a large section of plain flashing (no zig zags) that allows you to cut out any shape you need.

 

Well worth adding to a structure though, one of those subtle elements that takes the realism up a notch!

 

 

 

[Peter Kazmierczak]

I just use paper, shading it over with a soft pencil and smoothing it with my fingers. Then cut as desired and glue onto the building.

 

I find the sheen from a soft pencil gives the appropriate "lead" effect. You can make the flashing as light or dark as you want by the amount of shading you do on the paper.