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Bayerndorf im Tirol


Mike at C&M
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Ah, didn't know they carried this system - thanks :) .

 

Though I was just thinking...if Viessmann describe this system as such, it would seem they have committed a common mistake. Far as I found out when looking for images and diagrams of German OHLE types, this specific type was never officially called the DRG 1928 type, the term having been coined only in the 1950s.

 

By the way, this site might be of interest to you: http://www.elektrische-bahnen.de/eb_home.htm

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  • 2 weeks later...

At the fiddle yard end of the countryside section, I have built a structure out of Meccano which fulfils 2 main functions.

It lifts the overhead wires up in height so that the pantographs can run on and off the wires.

It is also rigidly built so that it provides tension for the overhead wires, so the wires do not bend as the pantograph runs along them.

gallery_7003_1795_146727.jpg It certainly isn't pretty, but it is very effective.

 

However, this effectiveness is not repeated at the station end of countryside section.

I am having major problems putting in the overhead wires over the points, and a major rethink is required, which may involve moving some of the span gantries, and the subsequent re-wiring that this would need.

Edited by 87029
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  • 3 months later...

I am having major problems putting in the overhead wires over the points, and a major rethink is required, which may involve moving some of the span gantries, and the subsequent re-wiring that this would need.

Some emergency work on the chimney in November was accompanied by the request that if there is anything of value immediately next to the chimney, it is recommended that you move it away.... and so the span gantries on the station approach were all dismantled.

 

After the madness of Christmas, I have started to re-construct the catenary, but with the benefit of some detailed study of the Viessmann manual which reveals several aspects I can take advantage of to simplify construction.

 

Further updates as things happen.

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  • 2 months later...

An unforeseen incident in January resulted in the decision to dismantle the platforms and re-align the track, before re-constructing the platforms. A newly acquired wagon had steps which fouled some of the platforms, so I decided to sort this out.

 

I am currently at the stage of re-constructing the platforms, but using a different technique to that used originally.

 

Firstly, the platform edges (Peco) are pinned into place whilst clearences are checked.

gallery_7003_1795_168694.jpg

A foundation layer of balsa wood is pinned to the baseboard between the platform edges.

gallery_7003_1795_187019.jpg

The balsa wood is added in layers until it reaches the required height. The black markings are simply an 'aide memoire' to show me that this height has been reached.

gallery_7003_1795_51489.jpg

Next step is to lay 1/16th cork on the top and paint it asphalt colour.

 

The station canopies are already built, but require painting. Then I can start to detail the platforms.

gallery_7003_1795_228277.jpg

Edited by 87029
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  • 6 months later...

I'm a relative newcomer but likewhat you're doing.Roco do a 100mm conversion track which couples one side to your track and the other to the newer (better in my opinion) Roco Geoline track which is a bit more rigid and would prevent your long strait wobbles

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It might seem criminal to say this, but the obvious 'wobbles' in the track do not really bother me, as long as the trains all stay coupled.

 

Things are rather dormant in the attic at present, with no likely progress in the coming weeks. When work resumes, then I shall post it here.

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Guest oldlugger

A very nice Roco Ae 6/6; what a handsome class this was in reality and in my view the best looking electric loco ever built anywhere. The canton version as opposed to the town, was the nicest with its chrome banding and light grey chassis. Good luck with the layout.

 

All the best

Simon

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A very nice Roco Ae 6/6; what a handsome class this was in reality and in my view the best looking electric loco ever built anywhere. The canton version as opposed to the town, was the nicest with its chrome banding and light grey chassis. Good luck with the layout.

 

I agree that those classic Swiss electrics are a rather attractive mix of ruggedness and simple elegance - and have a lot of character with their creased fronts and large windscreens.

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  • 7 months later...

   After several months with nothing being done, I have started to assemble the station building.

   I have been hunting for ages for a large structure that reflects the character of the Austrian/southern German area, and Roco obliged me with a laser cut card kit of the large station at Mariazell, the narrow gauge terminus of the famous Mariazellerbahn. The picture here shows the box with its' picture of the finished structure.

gallery_7003_1795_82834.jpg

 

 

   Construction is rather laborious, and requires great care and patience. Mistakes are easy to make, but fortunately those made to date can/will be covered up as construction progresses.

   This weekend, having finished the three individual structures that make up the main body of the station, They were glued together on the base provided with the kit. Very satisifying to achieve this.

gallery_7003_1795_47057.jpg

gallery_7003_1795_94213.jpg A sense of the large size of the building can be gauged from this shot with the kit placed on one of the platforms. The final building will have further extensions on the length.

 

The next stage involves the construction of the individual external walls. The green colour is simply the shell of the building which have the details of the doors and windows upon it, the external walls will be of the off-white colour with lintels and window sill details upon them.

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  • 3 weeks later...

It is surprising what can be achieved when you do a little, and often.

 

The central structure now has all its' external walls fitted, whilst the left hand side in these pictures is also structurally near completion.

 

However......

gallery_7003_1795_106905.jpg

gallery_7003_1795_54954.jpgThe (still) green section to the right has not been started as many of the parts are missing from the kit. Roco have been contacted to try and obtain the necessary parts, which I hope they will be able to do. But is they are unable to do so, then this is still at a stage where it can be adapted to exclude this section from the final model.

 

Work on the other sections will also now pause as a number of details such as furniture, people and lighting need to be looked at before the platform roof is fitted.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Roco have come up trumps on supplying the missing parts from the kit, even though it was a limited edition model from some 2 years ago. Chapeau to them for this.

 

The right hand section has therefore been added, as viewed in the photographs here.

 

gallery_7003_1795_143334.jpg

 

During construction to this point, I have made a couple of silly mistakes. One of which was not to fit glazing to the first floor windows to one block of the main building. I have therefore made a series of window blinds which look to be fully drawn down over the windows - clearly visible in the above picture.

 

gallery_7003_1795_6157.jpg

 

gallery_7003_1795_206888.jpg

 

The supports for the platform canopy are now in place. But construction will now pause as I look into how I can fit lighting on to the platform, before the roof is fitted.

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Quite by accident, I have discovered what seems to be the perfect solution to lighting the platform underneath the canopy.


 


Many of you will have seen the strips of LEDs that can be bought. Lots of pence if you buy a 5cm strip, and dirt cheap if you invest in several metres on a spool. We are currently fitting long lengths to display shelving in the shop, so what will it look like if I try this offcut on my station?


 


Things could not work any better, if I had wanted them to. The strip rests between the roof supports and roof structure, due to the backing strip being so thin, the individual LEDs all fit neatly between the individual struts - there isn't one which fouls the structure. The wiring is simply 2 wires at one end of the strip, rather than the mass (or mess) of wiring I envisaged I might need, and best off all, the LEDs do dim if you run a lesser voltage through them. In this case, about 5V d.c. seems about right, whereas the strip is rated at 12V d.c.


 


And so to the results. Firstly, in daylight, secondly in darkness and finally a close-up of the expected end result.


gallery_7003_1795_162658.jpg


gallery_7003_1795_19979.jpggallery_7003_1795_14250.jpg

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  • 3 years later...
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To those of you who model British outline, straight out of the box, I would like to introduce you to a novel concept - electrically operated semaphore signals that are incredibly simply to install and wire up.

These are produced by the German firm of Viessmann, and although the ones used are supposedly of German outline, because the histories of Austria and Germany in the 20th Century are so interwoven, they are not wrong for Austrian-based layouts.

 

attachicon.gifBiT_20110704A.JPG

 

This picture shows a single arm Home signal straight out of the box. A 12mm diameter hole is drilled in the baseboard for the motorised part to be pushed into. The base has 7 wires emerging from it - 2 for a 16V a.c. supply which works the lights, 3 provide for the electrical switching (common return, signal arm up and signal arm down). Wires 6 and 7 can be used to control a distant signal when switching a home signal.

 

The single arm signals are used the same as for UK practise - up means proceed, horizontal means stop.

 

attachicon.gifBiT_20110704B.jpg

 

The two arm signals signify something different to UK practise. Two arms 'up' (as per the right hand side picture) indicate proceed, but with a speed restriction. The left hand indication of one arm horizontal to the post means 'stop'.

In the case of these signals, the two arms are coupled and change together, although there are signals where the two arms are independant, so allowing a greater combination of aspects to be shown.

 

At this time, distant signals have not yet been considered.

 

attachicon.gifBiT_20110704C.jpg

 

By wiring the signal correctly to the Accessory Decoders, it is possible to marry the signal indication to that on the Roco 10772 Route Controller. So on the left hand picture, I have set the signal to 'Proceed' with the green light showing on the 10772, on the right, a red light on the 10772 indicates the signal is at danger.

 

attachicon.gifBiT_20110704D.JPG

 

As yet, I do not have the full set of signals I require for the whole layout, so one end of the layout will have the signals installed and wired up over the coming weeks.

 

This is the view of the west end of the layout with its full compliment of home semaphore signals in place, although obviously the signal aspects shown need to corrected!

 

This simplicity and detail does come at a price. The single arm signals are currently available at a shade over £30, the twin arm signals with interlocked arms are over £40.

 

You are right,

When the Germans occupied Austria they changed most of the semaphore type signals to the German "standard" arm. Therefore you can use German signals on Austrian layouts. When Austria got independent again, they had all kind of problems so nobody thought of changing the semaphore signals back to the original Austrian arm.

I use the German Viessmann stuff as well, they do kits without motor but with led's for a tenner - as I use servos on my layout it is the perfect economic solution.

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  • 5 months later...

It is over 3 years since I did any serious work on the layout, but early in 2017, I finally re-started to look at progressing the layout.

 

One of the first jobs required is to sort out the church. The first picture shows what it looked like in 2013.

 

post-7003-0-71250400-1490812808.jpg

 

The churchyard, as modelled above, is smaller than I would like, and I wasn't happy with the plasticard base structure and how the walling was going to work. So the base has been scrapped.

 

post-7003-0-36748400-1490813073.jpg

 

The church will fit into a corner of the attic, so the first job was to level the frame.

 

post-7003-0-86434600-1490813193.jpg

 

In the intervening 3 years, I have discovered the delights of foamboard. So a new base structure was built which fits snugly on to the wooden frame. This foamboard frame can easily be lifted out, so work can progress on the churchyard without having to lean across the layout, or by sitting cramped up within the corner of the attic.

 

post-7003-0-11684900-1490813439.jpg

 

Work can now start on planning the layout of the churchyard.

 

 

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I like the station building. Didn't know that Roco had laser cut station kits in their program.

Did a smaller one from Strobl/Salzburg (but it is still big enough, as all these laser cut buildings are exactly to scale, so they come out larger than the normal modeller expects)

Looking forward to see more!

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One good thing to come out of the prolonged lack of work is that a solution to how to model the churchyard walls has appeared.

 

My agent for Golden Valley Hobbies put me on to the Auhagen range of kits, and more specifically their range of parts for building bespoke industrial buildings. Within the range are two sets of brick walls, reference numbers 41622 and 41623, shown below in pictures from their website, www.auhagen.de 

 

post-7003-0-05945200-1490903014.jpg  post-7003-0-52267100-1490903014.jpg.

 

These kits come as individual pillars, separate ridge tile mouldings for each section, and the wall sections come with relief pattern on one side only - two of these sections are glued back-to-back to make the complete wall section [see left hand side of picture below]

 

These wall sections are all brick, but I was looking for rendered wall sections. So out came a tube of Humbrol Model Filler, and the brick mouldings on the upper sections were 'filled in'. Because of the speed at which the filler sets, the resulting rendering was very rough. [see centre item in picture below]

 

The rendered section was then painted with a single coat matt white acrylic, but the coat was not dense enough to completely colour the painted filler.

 

The result looks likely a poorly rendered and poorly painted wall - PERFECT! [Right hand side of picture below]

 

post-7003-0-78615600-1490903555_thumb.jpg

 

The brickwork was then painted brick red, and give a couple of washes of very dilute light grey paint. The effect I was looking for was to produce lighter mortar in between the bricks, but rather than achieving this, the converse was achieved as the bricks ended up being coloured more lightly. However, I am happy with the resulting weathered look.

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I like the station building. Didn't know that Roco had laser cut station kits in their program.

The Mariazell station is a one-off, and needed to be pre-ordered. I presume they did it because of their HOe range of Mariazellerbahn models, but I do not know if it was produced for them by one of the main building kit manufacturers on the continent.

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Just as a matter of interest, the station building based on Strobl was a standard design which could be found on railways throughout the former Austro Hungarian Empire, both narrow and standard gauge. One example of the latter is Waldkirchen an der Thaya (http://www.bahnbilder.de/bild/oesterreich~triebzuege~br-5042/56826/5042-014-0-am-1742006-in-waldkirchen.html), but I've seen photos of similar structures in Czechoslovakia and in the Balkans as well as throughout Austria itself. 

 

As regards the Strobl kit, the half timbered extension is unusual - a timber goods shed sited on a loading dock was more commonly attached to the main station building. (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Ybbsitz_bahnhof.jpg), but not always. The central part of station building provided living accommodation with the rest being the ticket office etc.

 

Off topic, but I hope the above will be of interest. 

 

David C

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For David C and who else may be interested: the source for the station is Krois Modellbau. The series of buildings is called Lasercraft by Krois. Small range but very good.

Vecchio

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One of the best 'tools' I have invested in recently is shown below. A wooden tray with raised sides. With restricted times when I can go into the attic at present, it allows me to continue doing smaller jobs whilst sitting in the comfort of the dining room.

 

post-7003-0-89688300-1490989575_thumb.jpg

 

After many hours filling and painting walls upon the tray, all individual sections are now complete, and a rough assembly can take place to gauge what size of churchyard I can achieve.

 

post-7003-0-55598300-1490989686_thumb.jpg

 

Next stage will be to build the churchyard base upon the foamboard frame.

 

More on this as it progresses.

 

 

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