DLT's SR Locos - Lord Nelson Craftsman Kit

[DLT]

OMG she look stunning Dave, you have done an amazing job getting this loco done.

Thanks Darren,

Tender toolboxes are now fixed.

Dave.

[ozzyo]

Hello Dave,

 

a nice looking build, but why did you make all of that work by leaving so many parts off when all of them were painted black? As you are now relying on a glue to paint bond not a glue to metal bond.

 

OzzyO.

[DLT]

Hi Ozzy,

 

The problem is making sure that there is sufficient paint and an even coverage underneath/behind all that pipework etc  There are lots of nooks and crannies created that are very difficult to spray into.  And I'm using a Halfords spraycan not an airbrush.

It would be a bit different if I was brush-painting it.  Hmmm, maybe I could I brush-paint all the inaccessible bits first and then spray it?

 

The actual bond isn't a problem, as most of the bits have a hole to fit into and glue can be applied behind; and in most of those cases soldering isn't really an option.

 

All the best, Dave.

[RAY NORWOOD]

Hi Dave

             It is looking fantastic. I just got myself one to build hope it comes out as good as that one. Will see you at Barny.   

Edited July 15, 2015 by RAY NORWOOD

[DLT]

Thanks Ray,

 

You asked about the motor and gearbox; its a Mashima 1420 and a Highlevel 54:1 RoadrunnerPlus, driving on the rear axle with the motor vertical in the firebox.  

I reckon it might be better turning it round and driving the centre axle, the motor will still go in the firebox.  Alternatively, a Branchlines Multibox might fit in a similar configuration (I haven't tried it) but they are available in higher reductions.

The 1420 isn't the greatest motor for slow running, (the longer ones are better) and I have had a couple of duff ones in the past.  Not sure what the alternative is for that sort of size.

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited July 15, 2015 by DLT

[DLT]

My attempt at painting the cab interior, not bad but "could do better".

In front is the massively overscale regulator handle.

 

 

 

I've used these rather elderly Humbrol products.

 

 

 

The rather coarse metal pigments gives the effect of them having been painted with glitter;

Maybe I should try my son's Warhammer paints, they're probably much finer.

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 4, 2022 by DLT

[DLT]

That's better, but still not great.  I think the regulator still needs thinning down a bit, but it will look a lot better once Darren has weathered it all down.

 

 

 

I've re-done the metalwork with these

 

 

 

And slid it all into place.

 

 

 

 

 

So at last I think I can say (unless anyone can spot anything else I've forgotten)   IT'S FINISHED!

 

Time to start thinking about Barnstaple.

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 4, 2022 by DLT

[darren01]

Hi Dave

Like what you have done with the cab, your right about the regulator being a bit over scale, have to put in a very strong armed driver for that one  .

That tin of Humbrol paint on the left is well old, have not seen one of them since i was a kid!.

Ray is working on a 700 now for his layout

Edited July 16, 2015 by darren01

[DLT]

 

That tin of Humbrol paint on the right is well old, have not seen one of them since i was a kid!.

The one on the right is even older!  

My Dad bought that one, so its 1960s

[DLT]

I've painted the sides of the regulator handle black so they are less obvious, now you only see the front face of it.

Dave.

[RAY NORWOOD]

Hi Dave

           That Black motor is looking fantastic, Darren will be very pleased with that. Hope mine will turn out as good.  

[Northroader]

Regarding the "metallic" paints you're using, a trick I found out when doing plane kits for my son was to mix the aluminium paint roughly 50/50 with light grey, mainly with the object of reducing wear with handling, but I found it gave a much smoother finish. Now I've spread the habit to my railway models, so that copper gets mixed in with something like orange, with a soupçon of rust to taste, and brass gets mixed with straw paint or something similar. the effect is to reduce the granular appearance, and still retain the metal look. Try it on the next copper cap loco you're building?

[DLT]

Thanks for the tip Northroader, I'll give it a try,

Cheers, Dave.

[Donw]

I think the idea of brush painting first to cover the hard to reach bits then a spray to get a good finish sounds like a good idea or at least something that might be within my capabilities.

I am surprised you find the 1420 no good for slow running . I think I have a 1624 (well that is what I think it is) in my 0 gauge dock tank and it runs superbly. Sometimes you can get a rogue motor. We found one Mashima 1833 was drawing double the current of another in the same kit with no sign of any stickiness in the mech. We could only assume the magnet wasn't as good.

 

Don

[DLT]

Hi Don,

I didn't say the 1420 is no good, I said its not the best.  The longer versions (1424, 1426) are better slow-runners, and the 16mm series even better.  I guess bigger magnets mean more power at low revs?  (I'm no electronics wiz!)

All the Mashimas are excellent motors, but choice is usually governed by what will fit.  Also, I would have preferred a higher reduction than 54:1, but I wanted to keep to a grubscrew fitting for the final drive gear and that precluded several of the smaller Highlevel gearboxes.

So don't get me wrong, I've nothing against the 1420, I've used several.

Cheers, Dave.

[darren01]

Picked her up today and what a job Dave has done on her, had her running round the Barnstaple cub layout at the show today and boy do's she look and run so well, Thanks Dave 

Darren

[2ManySpams]

Nice to see DLT and Darren yesterday, here's a few shots of the 700 on BCB.

 

 

 

[mudmagnet]

Hope you pulled the wheels out to fit the rail gauge ......

[2ManySpams]

Hope you pulled the wheels out to fit the rail gauge ......

 

Nope, just narrowed the gauge of the track with a big hammer...

[DLT]

Here are the photos 2ManySpams was referring to:

 

 

 

Time to wind up the next project, in this case its an old project revisited.  Back on page 1 I detailed the work I did on a freind's Finecast O2 kit.  The original plan was for him to finish it off as it was, but the announcement of the Kernow model changed all that.

So It has come back to me to be finished with a Drummond boiler; as 30199 photographed at Exmouth (below, from Railway Bylines, April 2009).

 

Not a great issue, remove the safety valves and fill in the hole, and replace the Adams dome with a Drummond pattern.  Fit some better clack valves as well.

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 4, 2022 by DLT

[2ManySpams]

Dave, 30199 has a curved rail on the rear cab sheet over the rear spectacles. Not all O2s had this but 199 did.

 

Drummond boiler...need to remove a coach from the load!

[DLT]

Dave, 30199 has a curved rail on the rear cab sheet over the rear spectacles. Not all O2s had this but 199 did.

 

Drummond boiler...need to remove a coach from the load!

Thanks Chris, your O2 project has given me plenty of inspiration.

Cheers, Dave.

[DLT]

I plugged the safety valve hole in the boiler top with a chunk of whitemetal filed to shape, soldered from top and bottom, and smoothed over.

Mark supplied a Drummond pattern dome, so job done!

 

Well not quite, the dome isn't sitting up perfectly straight, and its not quite big enough for 30199, but they did vary a lot in size and shape so we're not going to quibble.

 

 

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 4, 2022 by DLT

[Graham_Muz]

Dave, 30199 has a curved rail on the rear cab sheet over the rear spectacles. Not all O2s had this but 199 did.

Drummond boiler...need to remove a coach from the load!

The curved rail you refer to Chris is I think a copper pipe with holes in for damping down the coal dust.

 

Previously someone was adamant that this should in fact be a handrail!

[DLT]

The curved rail you refer to Chris is I think a copper pipe with holes in for damping down the coal dust.

 

Previously someone was adamant that this should in fact be a handrail!

Thanks for the info Graham.

I must admit I thought it was a handrail, but I can't see why one be needed in that position.

 

The other bit I need to finish is the cab interior.  I made it in a similar way to Mr.Spams, but in two sections:  The front is all attached to the floor, and the rear is separate (photos later) I still need to add the two lockers each side of the coal chute, and the one between the rear spectacles.

 

Cheers, Dave.