DLT's SR Locos - Lord Nelson Craftsman Kit

[john creasey]

any progress on the last item?

[DLT]

At last a bit of progress!  Had a bit of a break from actual modelling while I had to do two exhibitions in two weeks with two different layouts, but that's all sorted and its back to the E1/R.

 

Whilst buying loads of bits from the Alan Gibson stand at Railex, we discussed clack-valves (as one does) and realised that the clack valve for the Highland Railway "Yankee" tank is pretty close to the LSWR style double-square type.

No coincidence when you think about it, given the similarities between Peter Drummond's and brother Dugald's loco designs.  Both had worked at the Caledonian Railway, and Peter became Loco Superintendent of the Highland Railway.

 

Anyway, here is the packet.

 

 

 

It was necessary to cut the sprue off, file the base flat and then drill into the casting far enough to securely solder in a length of 0.7mm brass wire.

The overall detail is not absolutely correct for the LSWR, but its easy to file off a few more bits; while the double-square is beautifully rendered.  I think it compares favourably with the exquisite but fiddly (and a tad overscale) Romford product.

The whitemetal version from the kit is alongside for comparison.

 

 

 

It looks good on the loco too.

 

 

 

I also replaced the trailing wheels with Gibsons.  Ref 4838, 3'2" dia, 10-spoke to be precise.

 

 

 

That's all for now, but at least its moving again.

Cheers, Dave.

 

 

 

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[darren01]

There is no compassion to the Brass clack valve, the white metal one looks very poor. 

Another smashing build from you Dave, DJM Z class?.

Darren

[RAY NORWOOD]

I agree the brass clack valves look loads better.

Edited June 22, 2016 by RAY NORWOOD

[DLT]

Sorry for lack of updates recently, but I should be back on course with this loco now.  

Basic weathering is done, and all the pipework etc is being fixed on.  Trouble is I can only fit one or two bits at a time and then have to wait for the glue to dry.

 

And I've lost the dratted smokebox dart........

 

Dave.

[DLT]

Right well, I guess its pretty much finished, although I still haven't done the sandpipes.

Hmm, the Romford vacuum-pipe and screw-coupling look a bit on the huge side, and I think need replacing.  I tried the Branchlines cast-brass vac pipe, but its really hard and does NOT like being bent!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers, Dave.

 

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[DLT]

The smokebox numberplate is from Narrow Planet, producers of high-quality etched plates: http://narrowplanet.co.uk/  I'm not quite sure about the proportions of the plate, but NP are primarily aimed at the narrow-gauge market, and they will produce just about anything to order.  Their quality is excellent, as is their speed of production.

 

I'm in the process of replacing the plates on my narrow-gauge locos with custom-made NP products.  See bottom of this page:  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/35253-dlts-ng-workbench-upgrading-an-old-coach/page-14

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited July 20, 2016 by DLT

[DLT]

If you look at the Narrow-Planet Gallery page here:  http://narrowplanet.co.uk/gallery  keep clicking the refresh button, as the display regularly changes.

[DLT]

Doing the sandpipes; there's some very prominent support brackets and unions, representing these with a couple of handrail knobs and left over flanges from Romford clack-valve kits.

I may leave off the rear sandpipes as they are behind the cab steps.  Injectors are also hidden behind the steps, but their pipework is highly visible and will need representing.

Cheers, Dave.

[DLT]

Just a quick couple of in progress shots.  The injector piping is simply some 0.7mm brass wire bent around and soldered together.  These will be fixed behind the cab footsteps.

Also the "U" shape wire that will form the rear sandpipes.

 

 

 

The front sandpipes as fitted, the simple U-shape is soldered into a pair of slots in the top of the frames..

 

 

 

Thats all for tonight,

Dave.

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[DLT]

All pipework blackened and Araldited or soldered in place.  There was a surprising lack of clearance behind the cab steps, but this was solved by thinning the whitemetal castings, and filing down the crankpin washers.

 

 

The rear sandpipes were fixed into slots filed in the frames, taking care to ensure they didn't short out on the pickup strips.  Needs a good clean!

 

 

Looks ok on the model I think; just needs some dirtying down, probably with a mixture of mucky black and Metalcote Gunmetal to give it an oily sheen.

 

 

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[DLT]

Well, I guess its finished.  

I expect there's more I could do to it, but I shall pack it away in readiness for delivery to it's new "home shed" before I get any more bright ideas.

By for now, and thanks for following.

Dave.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[hayfield]

Dave

 

I like many others enjoy reading about your loco builds and envy the build quality and artistic finish. A real inspiration to us mere mortals.

 

I am about to build a SEF M7 to EM gauge, I see their etched frame spacers come in both EM and 00 gauges, but the screw frame spacers are to 00 gauge. I thought of initially using these screw spacers to initially hold the chassis together, then replace these with L shaped spacers soldered in place. I plan to use a motor with a gear box (Highlevel) rather than use the motor mount and a can motor. I did think of using washers on the screw frame spaces to take up the slack. Any ideas or tips please

[DLT]

Thanks for the comments John, much appreciated (and all the "likes" folks)

 

I usually assemble the chassis using the screwed spacers, and then solder the etched spacers in place later.  That way you can adjust everything to get it correctly aligned, before committing yourself with the solder.

Having said that, I often widen the chassis so that there is less sideplay in the wheels, by adding spacing washers to the turned spacers, and using the EM etched spacers filed down to suit.  This has the added benefit of giving more room between the frames for the gearbox.  I too don't use the supplied motor mount, so where I put the spacers is more attuned to the size and position of the motor and gearbox, and what sort of pickup arrangement I'm using.  Thus the spacers rarely go in the slots provided.

 

 

 

The E1/R used the turned spacers soldered eventually, and one etched spacer under the motor.  This was for the plunger pickups that I originally tried (unsuccessfully) and replaced with backscratchers.  Choice of pickups can be confounded by the arrangement of etched springs on the chassis, and the design of the brakegear.

 

Does that answer the question?

All the best,

Dave.

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[hayfield]

Dave

 

Thanks for confirming my thoughts I was thinking of using the screwed frame spacers to initially set up the chassis. Add additional L shaped sheet spacers as required. Do you (or anyone else) know if Dave at SEF sells EM gauge screw spacers?

 

I also am thinking of using the likes of Highlevel of Branchlines Gearboxes.

 

Second question please for the likes of Terriers and P class locos, what is a good small can motor for these please

 

Thanks again

[DLT]

On 29/07/2016 at 09:50, hayfield said:

Dave

Thanks for confirming my thoughts I was thinking of using the screwed frame spacers to initially set up the chassis. Add additional L shaped sheet spacers as required. Do you (or anyone else) know if Dave at SEF sells EM gauge screw spacers?

I also am thinking of using the likes of Highlevel of Branchlines Gearboxes.

Second question please for the likes of Terriers and P class locos, what is a good small can motor for these please

Thanks again

 

Hi John,

 

I can't see anything on the SEF website, but Romford make screwed frame spacers; round or square for 00, but only square for EM.  I'm not aware of anyone else though.

 

My "go to" drive systems these days are Mashima can motors and Highlevel articulated gearboxes; either the Loadhauler-Plus, Roadrunner-Plus, or Slimliner-Plus (essentially a narrow version of the Roadrunner)  An alternative is the Branchlines Multibox.  The E1/R and the O2, both used a Mashima 1420 and Roadrunner Plus 54:1

 

The only really small loco I've built in recent years was the SEF B4 class, and that used a Mashima 1220 (I think, it was provided by the customer, but a 1420 would fit) and a Slimliner-Plus 54:1 box, plus flywheel.

The addition of flywheels is a question; if you've got room to fit one on the rear of the motor, then you could have put a bigger motor in instead, so which is best?

 

 

 

 

 

Branchlines produce kits for both the Terrier and P-Class chassis.  I don't know what drive systems they recommend, but I would always got for a gearbox in preference to a single-stage worm & wheel.

 

Hope this helps!

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[hayfield]

Dave

 

I bought the P class off eBay and it has a Branchlines chassis plus a separate etch (Branchlines body improvement kit) and a few castings to improve the body (Wills I guess), also has a set of Markit wheels, just need to supply a suitable motor and gear box, I think the Terrier chassis I have is also Branchlines to go under one of my K's locos.

 

The SEF frame spacers have small screws, don't know if Markits use the larder ones favoured by K's etc. Mag give Dave a call next week

 

I have only built one Highlevel gearbox, it was so easy and worked perfectly first time. The 02 is the first to be built though, hence the question re SEF chassis. I have a Roadrunner + to use. 

 

Thanks very much for being so helpfull

[DLT]

The Branchlines P Chassis and body add-on kits were designed specifically for the Wills/SEF body kit, so it sounds like you've got a good matching set. 

The Terrier chassis kit was designed as a replacement to go under the then new Dapol Terrier body.

Cheers, 

Dave.

[bigbadbadge]

Hi Dave

 

Sorry I have been away from Railway modelling for a while, been busy with work, family and have been able to fit in some Aircraft modelling too.  I am now trying to do some on both Rail and Aircraft, bit more progress with the D3 chassis (have yet to post photos).

I do love this loco thread and have just caught up again.  Great work , the E1 looks fantastic.  I like the idea of the backscratcher contacts too, will have to look at that when I build my next chassis. 

 

Very inspiring modelling fella, thanks for sharing.  I am sorry about the absence too, I do have a note though !!!

 

All the best
Chris

PS, edit due to spelling mistake.
 

Edited July 29, 2016 by bigbadbadge

[DLT]

Right, time to resurrect the DLT Standard gauge workshop again.

 

This time its a Brighton loco, which is a new departure for me.  Modelling wise its familiar territory though, modifying a South East Finecast kit.

The project is to build an E5/X from the old E5 kit.  Basically, its a new higher pitched fatter boiler, with the tanks moved outwards and the cab raised to match.

As usual though, there's bound to be a lot more to it than that!

At least the chassis is the same, and I've got the revised SEF kit for it.

 

I'll do some photos when there's something to see.

 

All the best,

Dave.

[gz3xzf]

Right, time to resurrect the DLT Standard gauge workshop again.

 

This time its a Brighton loco, which is a new departure for me.  Modelling wise its familiar territory though, modifying a South East Finecast kit.

The project is to build an E5/X from the old E5 kit.  Basically, its a new higher pitched fatter boiler, with the tanks moved outwards and the cab raised to match.

As usual though, there's bound to be a lot more to it than that!

At least the chassis is the same, and I've got the revised SEF kit for it.

 

I'll do some photos when there's something to see.

 

All the best,

Dave.

Good to hear Dave, always good to see your ingenuity working.

[DLT]

Not difficult to choose the prototype, only four E5s were converted to E5X class, see here:  http://www.semgonline.com/steam/e5class_01.html

The target loco is 32401, the one with two domes at the bottom of the page.

Cheers, Dave.

[DLT]

I tell a lie, its not a South Eastern Finecast kit, the box says "Wills Finecast" so its older than I thought!

 

Anyway, some of the basic ingredients:  Wills E5 kit, with a modern SEF etched chassis kit, and a boiler etch for a C2X.

 

 

 

Progress so far, basic assembly of the chassis, using screw spacers only, plus wheels.

 

 

 

That's all for tonight.

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[jrg1]

DaveT's Southern Locos - Maunsell W Class - New Cab

 

by dltaylor

 

original page on Old RMweb

__________________________________________

 

??? posted on Sat Jun 20, 2009 10:19 pm

 

Dear All,

I am new to RMweb, but interested to see there are quite a few Southern modellers on here. My two main areas of interest are narrow gauge in 7mm scale, and the SR in the West Country. My main modelling project at the moment is a series of LSWR/SR locos, destined for an 00 layout based on the Exeter area in BR steam days.

The first of these was a Maunsell S15, No.30841, built from the excellent PDK kit with a few modifications.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I don't have any "under construction" photos of this loco, as I had to borrow a camera when needed.

I hope this is of interest,

All the best,

David Taylor.

__________________________________________

Comment posted by pete_mcfarlane on Sat Jun 20, 2009 10:58 pm

 

That's a nice looking S15 Welcome aboard!

__________________________________________

Comment posted by Steph Dale on Sun Jun 21, 2009 2:15 pm

 

Dave,

 

Looks good to me too!

 

NIce to have more Southerneers amongst the fray. I'd be interested to see what you're up to in 7mm...

 

Steph

__________________________________________

Comment posted by Graham_Muz on Sun Jun 21, 2009 2:46 pm

 

Hi Dave and welcome to the forum.

 

As Steph says nice to have some more Southern modellers about. Very nice S15

 

I am yet to have a go at a PDK kit, but I must finish some of the other kits i have still to start before before I invest in any more.

 

I look forward to seeing a few more of your models.

__________________________________________

Comment posted by Pudley Wonderer on Mon Jun 22, 2009 8:09 am

DLTaylor wrote:

My two main areas of interest are narrow gauge in 7mm scale, and the SR in the West Country. My main modelling project at the moment is a series of LSWR/SR locos, destined for an 00 layout based on the Exeter area in BR steam days.

 

David Taylor.

Hi David, and welcome to the forum. Going by your introduction I'm curious, are you the David Taylor of Charmouth fame by any chance?

__________________________________________

 

??? posted on Mon Jun 22, 2009 3:19 pm

 

Going by your introduction I'm curious, are you the David Taylor of Charmouth fame by any chance?

Hi Pudley,

Guilty as charged! I am indeed the builder of Charmouth and Bridport Town. I havent posted anything on RMweb about them yet, I am currently writing them up for various magazine publications. Charmouth has just finished a three-part "retrospective" in Roy Link's magazine Narrow Gauge & Industrial Review, Bridport will be featuring soon, and in Railway Modeller before too long.

 

In the meantime I am building a series of SR locos in 00, for a friend's layout which will feature Exmouth Junction in BR steam days. This allows me to indulge my other main interest, the Southern in the West Country. The S15 is finished, and I am currently building a Maunsell W class from the SE Finecast kit. Will post some photos soon.

 

Where will I find your projects?

 

All the best,

Dave.T

 

PS Bridport and Charmouth are still available for Exhibitions if anyone wants them.

__________________________________________

Comment posted by Pudley Wonderer on Mon Jun 22, 2009 3:36 pm

 

DLTaylor wrote:

Going by your introduction I'm curious, are you the David Taylor of Charmouth fame by any chance?

Hi Pudley,

Guilty as charged!

 

Had a feeling it was you David. I've just sent you a PM, as you may well remember me from some communication we had some years back when all we had was pen n paper

 

I am indeed the builder of Charmouth and Bridport Town. I havent posted anything on RMweb about them yet, I am currently writing them up for various magazine publications.

Great stuff, can't wait

Where will I find your projects?

Right here for layout...... viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2486&start=0&hilit=postcards+from+pudley+lane

 

and here for the workbench..... viewtopic.php?f=89&t=16530

__________________________________________

 

??? posted on Thu Jun 25, 2009 10:49 pm

 

My second Southern loco build was the Adams O2, from the South Eastern Finecast kit. Starting with the etched chassis, it was built much as intended, but with some added detail, and only a few minor modifications. The first thing I did was to replace the supplied motor and gearbox which unneccessarily large and would have filled the cab. The replacement was a Mashima 1420 and RoadrunnerPlus gearbox from HighLevel Kits. This box has an articulated section, allowing you to swing the position of the final drive, to find an optimum position. This combination allows the motor and box to be contained entirely within the sidetanks, keeping the cab clear, For gearbox details see http://www.highlevelkits.co.uk/

 

The biggest problem I found was when trying match the chassis to the body, it simply wouldnt fit. Eventually I realised that the whitemetal footplate was nearly 3mm too short. My solution was to build a new one from copperclad fibreglass pcb, with nickel-silver sheet soldered on for the top surface, and new brass rivited bufferbeams. Instant transformation!

 

Mods to the chassis included adding a couple of rivited overlays where visible detail was lacking, improving the look of the brakegear, replacing the massive coupling-rods with Alan Gibson products, and the fitting of "backscratcher" pickups.

 

Bodywork to follw soon,

 

Cheers,

David Taylor.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

__________________________________________

Comment posted by Steam on Shed on Shed</STRONG> on Tue Jun 30, 2009 6:58 am

 

Hi David, thanks for sharing some of your work, lovely workmanship to.

 

Darren.

__________________________________________

Comment posted by SRman on Tue Jun 30, 2009 7:51 am

 

I wish I had your skills with brass locomotives! I particularly love that S15. Lovely work there. Keep the pics of your progress coming.

__________________________________________

 

??? posted on Tue Jun 30, 2009 8:58 am

 

Thanks very much for the comments guys, and yes, theres plenty more to come.

Cheers,

Dave.T

__________________________________________

Comment posted by AlanRogers on Tue Jun 30, 2009 9:36 am

 

Dave

 

Interesting that these don't seem have to the split axles/chassis of your narrow gauge locos. What are the relative pros and cons of each from a scratch-building perspective?

__________________________________________

 

??? posted on Tue Jun 30, 2009 9:41 am

 

Once the new footplate for the O2 was complete, the bodywork went together pretty well using low-melt solder. The main area needing modification was the smokebox front, where there was some very poor casting. Having found that some locos had smokeboxes with rivited wrappers but plain fronts, I filed the front completely flat. I made a new piano lid from a piece of 1/8" brass angle with a length of 1/16" rod sat inside it and filled up with solder.

 

Additional parts included a whistle assembly from Branchlines; buffers, smokebox dart, tank fillers, safety valves and handrail knobs by Alan Gibson. Dome and chimney were produceds by myself. Some of the available casting for the dome are too small, Adams domes were huge when compared to later Drummond versions.

 

Has anyone else built this kit? I would be interested to hear your comments

All the best,

Dave.T

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

__________________________________________

 

??? posted on Tue Jun 30, 2009 11:18 am

 

Interesting that these don't seem have to the split axles/chassis of your narrow gauge locos. What are the relative pros and cons of each from a scratch-building perspective?

Hi Alan,

 

Choosing pickup method has as much to do with the size/shape of the individual loco as it it has with your own personal preferences. With narrow gauge locos, you've got a lot more width to play with, especially with outside frames. These SR loco kits come with a good quality etched chassis but with little provision made for pickup. As I'm using mostly Gibson wheels, split-axles are a non-starter unless you can electrically connect the rims to the axles, insulate the axles from the frames etc, etc.

 

My preference is usually for conventional wipers, mounted on the underside of the chassis where they are accessible. These etched chassis have correct spring/spring hanger detail, brakegear etc, leaving virtually no space for wipers. I don't care for plungers, as you can't adjust them once fitted, and I dont like top-acting wipers on the wheel treads, as they can collect dirt.

 

Back-Scratcher pickups were desctribed in MRJ many years ago (I forget who by) but seem ideal in this situation:

 

 

The photo show my Maunsell W Class chassis, fitted with Gibson wheels and Backscratchers. A length of copperclad pcb is araldited to the inside of the frame, and a "U" shaped length of phosphor-bronze strip is soldered to the pcb, passing over the top of the frame and bearing on the back of the wheel. Works a treat!

Aditionally, I filed a step in the back of the pcb strip so that it had a positive location against the top of the frame, the step also prevented the pickup from touching the frame. The O2 has Romford wheels, with one side un-insulated, and backscratchers on one side only.

 

I hope that description is clear ???

All the best,

Dave.T

 

By the way, if the track looks overscale, the phot was taken on my 7mm scale narrow-gauge layout

__________________________________________

Comment posted by number6 on Tue Jul 14, 2009 3:28 pm

 

Really impressed with the tidiness of your work Dave. So extremely neat! Something about your photos also makes them all seem like precious objects! Not like my own abominations... I am intrigued by the back scratcher pickups - are they just flat strips or do they have a 'claw' end that makes contact with the wheel - if you get my drift. I guess when the wheels are off they stick out at an angle to apply pressure on the wheel backs when in position. I know this stuff doesn't take kindly to too many adjustments before snapping so I guess it has to be robustly correct the first time. Up until now I have been quite keen on pickups that can be tweaked.

regards

Raphael

__________________________________________

 

??? posted on Tue Jul 14, 2009 10:48 pm

 

Really impressed with the tidiness of your work Dave. So extremely neat! Something about your photos also makes them all seem like precious objects! Not like my own abominations... I am intrigued by the back scratcher pickups - are they just flat strips or do they have a 'claw' end that makes contact with the wheel - if you get my drift. I guess when the wheels are off they stick out at an angle to apply pressure on the wheel backs when in position. I know this stuff doesn't take kindly to too many adjustments before snapping so I guess it has to be robustly correct the first time. Up until now I have been quite keen on pickups that can be tweaked.

regards

Raphael

Hi Raphael,

Thank you very much for your kind comments about my modelling. You are pretty much correct about the backscratchers, they spring against the back of the wheels with a slight S-bend in the end of the strip. So the face of the strip is against the wheel, NOT the cut end. The best way to avoid phos-bronze snapping is not to put a sharp bend in it in the first place, but curve it instead. Its more springy that way as well. I have had it snap as soon as I put a sharp right-angle in it, a curved U-shape is good and effective.

 

I too like to be able to tweak, but these actually need very little tweaking. They are out of harms way where its almost impossible to accidently damage them, (or stick the sharp end in your finger!) I will add more photos of the W-class shortly.

All the best,

Dave.

__________________________________________

 

??? posted on Thu Jul 23, 2009 10:51 pm

 

My current project is the Maunsell W Class 264T, from the South Eastern Finecast kit. Starting as usual with the chassis, this is an excellent etching, that goes together beautifully. My only modification was to change the position of some of the chassis spacers in order to accomodate my chosen drive, in this case a Mashima 1426 can motor and Branchlines 80:1 Multibox driving on the rear axle. Wheels are from Alan Gibson, the closest match being his LMS Crab wheels (5'6" diameter, 17 spoke, 13" crank throw)

The Backscratcher pickups, and the reason for choosing them, were described earlier in this thread. The only other bits added at this stage are the brakehanger brackets, these need to be firmly soldered in place before the wheels are fitted.

Having acheived a functional running chassis, I prefer to move on to the bodywork. The rest of the chassis (cylinders, valvegear, brakegear etc) can follow on later when the basic bodywork is complete.

 

All the best,

Dave.T

 

 

 

 

__________________________________________

Comment posted by LNWRmodeller on Fri Jul 24, 2009 2:52 pm

 

THe "backscratcher" pickups were described in MRJ by Allan Sibley IRCC. They became known as Siblups.

 

Jol Wilkinson

__________________________________________

Comment posted by Mallard60022 on Fri Jul 24, 2009 4:42 pm

 

Well impressed with your S15 & O2. I'm sure the W will be as good. When are you going for the Z? I had a DMR one built by Geoff Brewin some years ago which looks the business and now I have just acquired one on that Auction site (includes wheels). It is not a straightforward kit from memory and I also think there has been a posting about building one in the not too distant past.

Would you be going for Exeter Central by any chance?

Sincerely 72A

__________________________________________

 

??? posted on Fri Jul 24, 2009 9:50 pm

 

THe "backscratcher" pickups were described in MRJ by Allan Sibley IRCC. They became known as Siblups.

 

Jol Wilkinson

Hi Jol,

 

Many thanks for the prompt, I thought it was in MRJ that I'd seen the idea. You've got me searching and I've found the article; it was by Mike Trice in MRJ No.17.

In an even earlier edition, (No.6) Iain Rice describes many variations on the wiper/plunger type of pickup.

 

Cheers,

Dave.T

__________________________________________

 

??? posted on Fri Jul 24, 2009 10:10 pm

 

Mallard60022 wrote:

Well impressed with your S15 & O2. I'm sure the W will be as good. When are you going for the Z? I had a DMR one built by Geoff Brewin some years ago which looks the business and now I have just acquired one on that Auction site (includes wheels). It is not a straightforward kit from memory and I also think there has been a posting about building one in the not too distant past.

Would you be going for Exeter Central by any chance?

Sincerely 72A

Dear Mallard,

Thanks very much for the comments. I won't be starting on the Z until I've finished the W. It is the DMR kit, it looks excellent and I've heard nothing but good reports about it. A friend of mine recently built the 0-Gauge version and it looks stunning.

These locos aren't for me, they are destined for a friend's long-term layout project, featuring Exmouth Junction loco shed in 00.

 

All the best,

Dave.T

__________________________________________

Comment posted by Mallard60022 on Mon Jul 27, 2009 10:28 am

 

Good heavens. Another old stamping ground was 72A (and then 83D ... yuch!). As you have probably noticed there is new a thread on a Z; worth asking if you could copy the pics for ref which I often find very useful. On that point, may I copy your O2 pics please? If not , no matter. Sincerely, Polsloe Bridgehalt.

 

DLTaylor wrote:

Mallard60022 wrote:

Well impressed with your S15 & O2. I'm sure the W will be as good. When are you going for the Z? I had a DMR one built by Geoff Brewin some years ago which looks the business and now I have just acquired one on that Auction site (includes wheels). It is not a straightforward kit from memory and I also think there has been a posting about building one in the not too distant past.

Would you be going for Exeter Central by any chance?

Sincerely 72A

Dear Mallard,

Thanks very much for the comments. I won't be starting on the Z until I've finished the W. It is the DMR kit, it looks excellent and I've heard nothing but good reports about it. A friend of mine recently built the 0-Gauge version and it looks stunning.

These locos aren't for me, they are destined for a friend's long-term layout project, featuring Exmouth Junction loco shed in 00.

 

All the best,

Dave.T

 

__________________________________________

 

??? posted on Thu Jul 30, 2009 10:10 am

 

On that point, may I copy your O2 pics please? If not , no matter. Sincerely, Polsloe Bridgehalt.

Sorry for the delay, yes of course you may copy the photos, if they can be of use to you.

regards, DaveT

__________________________________________

 

??? posted on Thu Aug 06, 2009 3:28 pm

 

With the chassis running, I turned to the whitemetal bodywork. Comparing the illustration on the front of the box to photos of the real thing showed that a number of dimensions were slightly wrong, upsetting the proportions. From photos anf the Railway Modeller drawing we worked out that the tanks were too low, and the whole thing sat too high on the chassis. I made new brass overlays for the tanks, a new smokebox wrapper to represent later condition, and by filing away large amounts of whitemetal, got the whole thing sitting lower.

 

 

 

 

Cab proportions also appeared incorrect, and I spent a while trying to scale it from photos and drawing it four times full size.

 

 

From this I made up new cabsides from brass. Trying to get the curvature of the cab roof looking right took ages, Maunsell cabs are a pig to model, there is no convenient location for a join. Can anyone suggest a simple method of producing a wrap-around cab???

 

 

I intended using the new sides as overlays, but ended up making a whole new cab

 

 

The casting for the rear footplate section was poor, so I scraped away the surface and soldered on a new top surface and bufferbeam from brass, and filed it to the correct taper.

 

 

 

 

The bufferbeams supplied in the kit were plain with no riviting, representing original condition. Having replaced the rear beam, I had to do the front one as well, and had great fun with the riviting tool and strained eyes! Please dont look too closely at this enlargement, it show all the blemishes.

 

 

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Comment posted by Adam on Tue Aug 25, 2009 11:33 am

 

Re: The Finecast O2

 

A very impressive job there David. I've just finished one of these for a friend, he wanted it more or less from the box but with push pull gear so I didn't go as far. I will say that whatever it's deficiencies it is a rather better kit than the Gibson version which has many issues of its own; lack of proper location for parts, an interesting design of boiler assembly which if built per the 'instructions' means the smokebox is wrong ( the door on the casting for the smokebox front is too small as well), and which makes no provision for clearance to the front drivers. It did provide both heights of cab as well as the IoW version however which is a plus, but only if you want one of those!

 

Adam

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Very impressed with the builds-keep it up!  I understand the difficulty of rolling the Maunsell roof-I suggest using the cab front and back sheets as a former.  As you split the roof in two halves, the front and back sheets can be set at the correct distance with studs to give a rigid base.  The roof/side can be tacked at the top, and worked down.  The sharp bend at the top corner would possibly be easier to reproduce using NS-but I think from the photograph that my thoughts are superfluous.  I did something similar with a Perseverance tender cab-very difficult to get right, but I was able to use a surface table and rare earth magnets to keep the assembly aligned.

[DLT]

Very impressed with the builds-keep it up!  I understand the difficulty of rolling the Maunsell roof-I suggest using the cab front and back sheets as a former.  As you split the roof in two halves, the front and back sheets can be set at the correct distance with studs to give a rigid base.  The roof/side can be tacked at the top, and worked down.  The sharp bend at the top corner would possibly be easier to reproduce using NS-but I think from the photograph that my thoughts are superfluous.  I did something similar with a Perseverance tender cab-very difficult to get right, but I was able to use a surface table and rare earth magnets to keep the assembly aligned.

 

Thanks very much JRG, clearly Mr. Maunsell didn't consider the needs of future modellers when he designed his wrap-over cabs!  

The forming itself takes quite a bit of work to make it look right, but what really makes it awkward is the presence of the cabside cutout so close to the curve.  

The PDK S15 has the cab in three parts, with the join at the rainstrips, while the DJH U-class has the sides and roof etched in one piece.

Cheers, Dave.

PS  Please could you edit your quote down a bit?  It takes up half the page!