Deev Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Hi guys, In the past I've always joined my track across baseboard joins using thick copper-clad strips glued down with the rails soldered on. I've never used cork as an underlay and have glued the tracks to the boards directly. I plan to use 3mm cork on my next project. Can anyone advise as to which is the best method of joining track when using cork underlay in terms of security and noise? Pics much appreciated! Thanks, Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Royal Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Hi Deev, We have used the following method for our P4 club method Copper clad board suitable scribed for electrical continuity screwed to the baseboard with suitable diameter holes drilled into the copper clad board. Into these holes brass rods are soldered which in turn are soldered to the underside of the rails. Eridge Basboard Edge Trackwork This of course meant that the brass rod needed to be filed to the correct height of the rails once laid and to be honest was a bit hit and miss. Upon reflection I thought the idea in principle was good and strong however just needed adapting slightly. I would be tempted in future to use the following adapted method Secure the copper clad to the underside of the base board(suitably scribed for electrical breaks) Drill holes through the baseboard/copper clad (and in your case cork) in line with the rails Temporary position track and mark position of holes on the track Remove track and solder brass rod to underside of rail Lay track having inserted rods through holes Pin and or glue track Join Rod to copper clad from underside by flooding with solder This way the top joint can be achieved neatly whilst the ride height of the rail can be set and then the second rod joint can be achieved with a healthier amount of solder Plus the copper clad strip could be used to join electrically the boards together Hope I've explained it Worth a thought Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
roythebus Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Sounds a bit over-complicated to me. I use a bit of wood or plasticard plus the pcb screwed to the baseboard ends, made up to the correct height under the rails, solder the rails across the joint then cut them with a razor saw or whizzy drill with a cutting disc. Simples. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
St. Simon Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Hi, You could just drill a hole and attach the sleepers using Peco track pins. A word of warning, when having curved track joins, be warned that if you cut them and they are not solder properly, they will 'ping' and make a kink in the track. Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deev Posted January 15, 2011 Author Share Posted January 15, 2011 Hi Ark Royal, That is interesting and it certainly looks the business. If I solder a brass rod to both rails though, won't it short? What am I missing? Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
corax67 Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 I have used the technique in the picture for many years on numerous layouts and I find it is both effective and reliable - in this picture the joint shown is on my current exhibition layout. I use double-sided copper clad board which is almost identical thickness to Peco Code-100 sleepers and always onto cork underlay. As the picture show the track ends are soldered to the strips which are in turn screwed down into the baseboard. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allegheny1600 Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 Hi Dave, Have a look here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/topic/3363-flixborough-exchange-sidings-withdrawn/page__view__findpost__p__129045 and then down to post number 39 on same page for detailed description of "how to". Cheers, John E. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
graeme3300 Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 The following suggestion is a variation of the pieces of copper-clad board at the baseboard edge. The specific problem we had was, despite good alignment of the modules using 100mm hinges on each side and a suitable nail to link them, plus adjuustable feet on each leg of each module, there was still some variation in the height of the rails between the modules at exhibitions - which of course led to rough riding over the joint. I should add here that fishplates are not used at all between the modules. Each gap between modules is treated as an electrical section gap for both rails as each module is connected electrically with multi-pin computer plugs and does not need any direct physical connection between the tracks. I suspect the problem developed because the chipboard base had not been properly sealed with paint (it's now a tramway layout using recycled former railway modules) and has expanded slightly. Totally rebuilding each module was not an option for us. Instead we use a strip of 3mm dense foam and copper-clad sleepers held with small brass countersunk woodscrews. The flex-track was cut about 75mm in from each module end and fishplates installed, effectively leaving a floating piece of track. Now when the modules are joined together it's a matter of seconds, if required, to individually adjust each railhead with a screwdriver using the flexibility of the foam. (The foam itself came from an Art supply shop in a sheet about 200mm x 300mm for the princely sum of $AUD 2.00!) The photos below should make things clear. Regards, Graeme Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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