Tram Rails

[Owain Glyndywr]

Does anyone know if someone produces 00 scale proper tram rails. I.e. Channel type stuff

[Owain Glyndywr]

Thanks that's ideal

 

 

[PLD]

There are a few other options, and which is most arpopriate for you will depend on your personal combination of budget; skills; and trade off between ease of use and appearance.

There is the ready to use 'set track' style Luna range - very easy to use but very expensive. International Models and ON Tracks stock it in the UK.

 

ORR Track from CUSTOM TRAXX in the US has a small range of points/crossings (sold as kit or ready assembled form) and grooved plain rail (for use with copperclad ties) - much cheaper than Luna but curving the plain rail can be a chalenge.

 

There have been a several similar threads both on this version and the previous version of the forum which discuss various options that may be worth reading e.g.:

Tram Points

Inset Track

Tram Tracks

OO Tramway Track

 

Paul

[hartleymartin]

Does anyone know if someone produces 00 scale proper tram rails. I.e. Channel type stuff

 

It's not available any more. I have a few lengths of the rail stashed away somewhere.

 

I've done some experimenting though.

 

You can use ordinary code 100 rail with another code 100 rail either glued or soldered with the head of the second rail in the web of the first rail.

 

If the first rail is in the usual orientation, the rail head is about 1.1mm wide and gives a 1.5mm flangeway - ideal for 7mm scale. If the first rail is inverted it gives a rail head some 2mm wide and a 1.0mm flangeway - ideal for 4mm scale.

 

However, if you intend to used curved rails, you will need to pre-bend all the rails, as the new rail section doesn't bend. You're probably best first laying the running rails and then adding the second rail to form the groove. The first rail would need to be soldered to copperclad sleepers, but the second rail can probably just be attached using a number of small clamps (wood clothes pegs) and using Zap-a-gap medium CA superglue. If you want this second rail to be live, you probably would have to solder it to the copper-clad sleeper.

 

I created a test-piece using code 100 rail using just the super-glue. It was more to test if this idea would work visually rather than mechanically. The next version will be soldered construction and will be tested using a running model.

[hartleymartin]

Apparently you can still get girder rail!

 

http://www.trolleyville.com/catalog-ho.html