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Problem reassembling Hornby J94 loco


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Hi

 

I've recently taken possession of a Hornby J94. It's not the newest model (it has the running number 60010) but it was new shop stock. I think it had sat on the shelf for a while as when I tested it on a loop of track it stopped and started a bit, so I took it apart as per the instructions and lubricated it, after which it ran fine.

 

But I can't get the upper saddletank / cab plastic unit to clip back onto the chassis properly. I can get the font of the boiler lined up fine, but the cab doesn't reach the floor. This leaves a gap along the side of the saddletank.

 

I suspect the reason for this is down to two little 'feet' that are supposed to slot into the cab floor - not the clips on the side, these go in fine.

 

I plan to put some photos up to illustrate what I mean later (I'm at work now), but I just wondered if anyone else has had this problem and what they did to solve it.

 

All comments appreciated,.

 

Jon

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  • RMweb Gold

it is tricky - having done this on more occasions than I care to remember with "Harry" on Summat Colliery.

 

The trick is to get the front of the cab dead vertical and push it down, don't be tempted to angle it forward as the boiler/tank section goes over the motor etc. Even doing this is it very fiddly and takes a few goes :no2:

 

When it does go though you get a satisfying "click"

 

Hope that helps

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I got it to clip in. Eventually I used a flat-blade screwdriver to open up the slots in the cab floor and then I got the 'click'.

 

Now though it's still running poorly. It's very noisy and tit sounds like the motor is spinning faster than it should given the speed of the engine. So I might have to take it apart again!

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  • RMweb Gold

The Austerity tank engine is very highly geared, so expect the motor to spin quite a lot for little movement. It was designed this way to give good low speed performance.

 

Check the pickups are not digging into the wheelbacks, tell tell sign is brass shavings around the chassis where the pickups are.

 

Spot of silicone oil on each end of the motor bearings and some silicone grease on the worm gear should quieten it down.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Having had a go at a couple of these in Hornby incarnation some years ago, one was a reasonable runner, but the other had the motor and thus the worm poorly aligned to the pinion and was slow, noisy, and exhibited jerky then surging running at low speeds. Which after all is the speed range you mostly want to run such a thing.

 

In short the plastic mouldings by which the motor is retained were the culprit, with mould flash that led to it being malformed and thus mispositioning the motor when all screwed down. A clean up and realignment transformed the little sucker into a chassis that ran near as well as a Bach or Hornby 08. It so exceeded the second specimen's 'adequate' performance that this too got the treatment, and became equally sweet running. This latter was my own and got a DCC decoder, in which form it has been accused of having a replacement chassis in it, and the top has to come off to prove that it still runs on the original motor and chassis.

 

I have posted this before, and will doubtless post it again: much OO RTR may be viewed as an assembled kit, made from parts that have the potential to deliver decent operation, but which may well only yield that potential if dismantled to some extent and given a superior assembly.

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