buffalo Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 This weekend I acquired several lengths of code 75 streamline and electrofrog turnouts. A pretty unexceptional event but, for me, an almost wholly new experience You see, I haven't handled any RTP track for about 45 years, admittedly during most of which I've not been modelling. However, my only experience in this time has been building my own EM and, more recently, P4 track and turnouts. So really, as far as this stuff goes, I'm a complete newbie Having seen the impressive results that some people achieve with these products, I'd appreciate any guidance on the following: Does it stick down well with PVA? Please don't say 'use Copydex', I can't stand the smell How do you join the track? Peco rail joiners, cosmetic metal/plastic fishplates, or what? How do you mechanically modify electrofrog turnouts? I'm thinking particularly of the tiebars and their associated springs so that they work well with Tortoises or servos, and improving the appearance. Don't worry about electrical mods, I can handle that Any suggestions, guidance, photos would be most welcome. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 PVA is fine. Peco rail joiners work, can be cut to half length to make them less obtrusive, particularly as you will not be relying on them for electrical conductivity. Obviously dispensing with joiners and going for glued on fishplates will look better. Check that the turnouts are truly flat before laying. Hack away all the spring assembly, the perforated ends of the timbers for mounting the point motor, the upstands on the ends of the tie bar. It is possible to reposition the curved blade on the tiebar, 1 millimeter closer to the stock rail by drilling a new hole in the tiebar for the tab which secures the blade. This improves the appearance significantly as it cuts down the 'dog-leg' effect of the loose heel switches. Lopping off the last sleeper and the corresponding length of rail on the curved road positions a pair of points in crossover formation at correct 44mm track centres. On the large radius points, in combination with repositioning the blade you can also solder the loose heel switch joints to make the blades flex: haven't fully tested this one for longevity but so far so good (several years). Also very slightly curving the point is possible by cutting through the track base links and gently forming; does require the point to be glued down, but that is in your plans. The real winner for us RTR types is combining the large radius point with SMP or C&L flexi on running lines. Definitely worth the effort of glued on fishplates if going this route. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Yep basically what has been said by 34theletterbetweenB&D In order of priority and greatest improvement: 1 remove all webbing - including the points and re space sleepers (pic on my blog/thread) 2 remove the child finger control system on the point tie-bars 3 remove the plates for the Peco motor attachment - if you loose these sleepers you can space the rest slightly better. 4. If using Tortoise - and who wouldn't - loose the spring and its plate. 5. remove the silly moulding pips on the sleepers of less merit - harder to do - but worth it. The other options described above: - I file off that tab rather than drill - after all I always bond the switch rail to stock rail. - Shortening the curve rail - not done this yet am not so convinced and prefer a slightly wider than 44mm gap anyway - especially on a curved double track crossing (as Quintland) - Fishplates: I've asked the same question but am yet to see a reply showing an alternative worth the effort. sources that will fit Peco track. Seems a lot of effort and extra expense for minimal return Electrically: droppers on every length of track - what purpose fishplates? Wire the points correctly. Glue: PVA is fine - but I tend to just to use double sided tape on the stressed sections or a dab of superglue under the occasional sleeper. It is all temporary until the lot gets ballasted. (flooded in PVA for FY areas) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Mostly as both above, but I also replace the tie-bar with SMP replacements. I find that under heavy use the Peco plastic tie-bar can come unattached from the switch-rails. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted February 1, 2010 Author Share Posted February 1, 2010 Many thanks to all for this useful information. I'll be trying to put it all to good use over the next few weeks and maybe show some results on my blog later. At present I'm mostly building baseboards... Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.