M.I.B

I got the Hornby bodied K42 out next....

It too has warped in the centre with the roof sinking by about 1.5mm in the centre on the edge of the roof.  The roof profile across the roof is almost perfect.

I have ordered another Mainline LMS 57' from the Worlds favourite auction site........

Not sure what to do with my growing collection of 57' coach chassis.......

Stay safe.

Thank you - I learned by mistakes and have listed all this up here in case soemone else wants to have a go.    It's actually quite an easy process, but with no instruction manual and no task order.

To improve on this for the next K42, I will take all of the hand rails and grips out of the brass side before glueing.  In the Mainline one above, I had to measure where these were and drill holes in the plastic body to let the "tails" if the brass wire go through.  You can't snip them off flush inside the brass side  other wise the glue on the inside holding the wire will be gone and the wire falls out.   That was too much of a faff so it's quicker to take them out and add new wires once the sides are together and solid.

I spoke too soon..........the second side on the K40 decided not to attach in the manner required and so it has been removed for a clean off and third attempt.

In the meantime, the replacement shell for the Mainline bodied K42 arrived, got chopped up and I am pleased to report that both sides are on, solid, warp free and ready to fill.

I did all of the neccessary shaving and drilling on the body while it was intact, so as to use it's rigidity.  The last thing I did was cut out the single large "window" aperture, which makes it all very flimsy afterwards.

The holes for roof rails and vents were marked and pre-drilled as well.

The body was replaced onto the chassis as quickly as possible to give rigidity to the tumblehome area to stop this form warping or deforming.

This needs some minor filling, especially where the LMS vents were taken off the roof, and a little smoothing in places where glue has splurged out.  Minor problems compared to getting these back on and right.  Then it's going to be Austerity Brown.

I am not going to do the filling yet - I will use the car body filler method again. 5 coaches worth of filler is less than a teaspoon of plod, so I will do them together - one coachworth is too small to accurately mix.  Too much hardener and it goes solid on the spatula, too little and it stays porridge like for days on the surface.

It has lost one handle/handrail, and there are a few replacement droplights which seem to be the wrong size...........however, I'm calling this a "win". 

What's next?   Hornby based K42 needs one side adding, and it's the third attempt for the Airfix B Set based K40.....

I hope you are happy and healthy.

I've seen a couple of references to a RAL code for a particular car colour.   or Pantone.

RAL does not have a code to match every car paint colour.  The idea of the RAL is to give a standard colour for a use:

An "Army Green", a bright red, a silver, a medium blue, an orange for construction trucks, a green for police cars etc etc

There are an awful lot of RAL colours, so you will get one that is "close".  But it's not guaranteed to match a car colour.

If you want Ford Sierra Beige you need to buy Ford Sierra Beige - either from Halfords if they still stock it, or get it mixed into a can by the local auto paint specialist if it is a "dornmant colour".  Beware - custom can fills are often "2 pack" paint with has a short shelf life when it's moxed - think "Araldite".  Don't be getting a £20 can mixed up for something you only use every 2 years or so.

First Google response:

People also ask

Is ARALDITE exothermic?

Araldite adhesive sets by the interaction of an epoxy resin with a hardener. Mixing an epoxy resin and hardener together starts a chemical reaction that produces heat - an exothermic reaction.

I have just checked the K40 and removed the masking tape and mini bulldog clips.  The side is firmly attached with no warps or gaps.     

Tomorrow we remember, and on Sunday we march.

All gave some.    Some gave all.

While the first side of the K40 was setting/curing/drying, I took a look at the Mainline based K42.  This was the one with a concertina'd side w

hich then popped off in numerous places.  to the casual eye it initially looked like it only needed a re-glue on the top edge.

Unfortuantely, the roof on one side has melted/deformed and is too warped to allow the side to fit properly:

Sunk in the middle........

The other side was gently removed, and both were cleaned up and de-glued.    A new Mainline LMS 57 compo is heading West from Harwich courtesy of Ebay......

The next one to investigate (while the second side goes on the K40) will probably be the Hornby based K42.

Stay safe and warm.

The old stuff was rather evil. 

I'm guessing like creosote and paint stripper, all the VOCs have been removed from Evostick thus making it a little less effective and a lot less obnoxious.

I will have another check today for blobs, drips, globs and other detritus needing to be removed before the brass and Airfix can be bonded together again.

The K40 was certainly the biggest "fail".

The others all seem to be OK on one side and separated on the other on initial re-inspection:

K42 - Hornby 57' shell and Comet sides.

K42 - Mainline 57' shell and Comet sides.

K19 - Hornby 57' shell and Dart sides

K38 - Hornby 57' shell and Comet sides

One from memory,  (probably one with less or no tumblehome), had concertina'd along the body using the door engravings as a weak point.  I may have to re-do both sides of that one with a longditudinal stiffener on the inside to stop this flexing.

But this is the work plan for the winter.  Then sometime after that there

is:

Brass H57 to finish,

sides and bogies to put on a Centenary to make a J12

Two Centenary brake thirds morph into a  full brake

Then the unstarted kits include:

Plough brake

O13

C76

D130

K25

K29

and the obligatory bullion van............. busy retirement........

I hope you are all happy and healthy.  Just survived my COVID booster #2 yesterday. 

I have really started to rescue the NPCCS failures from 5/6 years ago ( or longer).  I have promised to do so for a while but something always comes along.

The K40 was the first.  This is a set of Comet sides on an Airfix B set.  It will be the only K40 in the fleet, and finished in chocolate and cream.   

I do have a set of white-metal/brass American bogies, which I will have to fit to one of these just to add some variety.  They were donated when I cut up the SIPHON F kit built to make the SIPHON C not too long ago.  I will research a suitable recipient for these very soon.

Back to the job in hand - Araldite failed to hold the sides on to the RTR plastic coach sides in 5 cases.  It worked in about 3.  Step 1 was to remove all the glue in order to have two smooth surfaces to join together on attempt #2.    A simple task but needing patience - especially with a scalpel on the Airfix body.  Trying to get under the hard glue without digging into detail that I need to remain, such as gutters.

I de-glued the sides whilst resting on an old rolled tea-towel so as not to bend/crush the tumblehome or crease the side vertically.   

Once the lumps were removed, I used an emery board and then Scotchbrite to ensure everything was smooth.    This all took about an hour because I did not want to rush.

Next step for the K40 is to choose the glue of choice.. Could well be Evostick spread thinly on both sides, one side at a time.

I hope that you are happy and healthy.  

I cleared some space in the cabinet to fit the final two "troublesome" NPCCS builds in.   Quick simple jobs but enjoyable.

Firstly another tarp'd 12ton van.  I tarp'd it because the roof was white, and it's too cold to spray paint at the moment.  It's not a cop out - the more I look in the backgrounds of photos in the mid/late 40s, the more I see tarp'd vans.    You've seen me do a few and the method hasn't changed.

Then I fitted crew to the two Dapol 61XXs.    Super simple: the cab roof lifts off just by slipping a fingernail under the drip rail on the cab sides.  It comes off upwards bringing the front cab windows and rear cab wall with it.   I had already put real coal in the bunker, which made refitting slightly tougher, but not challenging.

6126 got two standing crew while 6110 got a shovelling fireman and a seated driver who was amputated from the knees down.  He came as part of a bundle of crew from eBay.  Luckily I have an amount of cab seats from other operating companies, and one was hacked with Xuron cutters until the driver was the right height for a standing adult.  The  seat/base is hidden by the cab sides and closed cab doors.

The final job was "testing" but ended well.  A lesson learnt:    read the instructions......  Fox tells you to take your time applying lining, and perhaps use 2 or 3 sections rather than trying to do the whole coach on one go.....   I have tried to do this sort of lining a few times before but without this hint.   It works!   The efforts, whilst not 100% perfect, are 3000% better than ever attained before.   It does take patience, and seven sets of hands, but it's done.

The photos are not great ( sorry) but as I said a dozen pages back, you get blind to your work at times and a camera photo picks up the faults.   Since taking these, I altered one end on one coach line as it was kicked down at the brake end.

A squirt of Testors tomorrow and they will be repacked at teatime.   

The cabinet now has all 5 "offenders" in it, and I'm finally keen to get stuck back in......

I hope you are happy and healthy.

On 04/11/2022 at 15:15, The Fatadder said:

Do you know if these were lettered with the usual white lettering or if they went for yellow on brown?

Looking at the photo and guessing at the contrasts, I think it is white on brown.

I'm seriously considering a TOAD and a MINK in "LMS Bauxite" now given my timeframe.

On 02/11/2022 at 10:06, MrWolf said:

 

At least you wouldn't get mistaken for a Hell's Accountant, / dentist / lawyer etc.

 

The H.O.G. always have spotless leathers and carefully ignore we greasers.

 

Although upon turning up at a meet astride a 1949 Vincent Rapide I got the usual "What's that worth then?"

"About £25,000."

"Wow, you could get a really nice Harley for that kind of money...."

 If you want a nice Harley these days, buy a new one, and then get the paint re-done, chrome re-plated and the engine properly built and dyno'd.  That'll set you back 15 large ones on top of the buy price.

Indian rider/Greaser and proud to be - the rain washes the flies, coffee froth and egg yolk off my leathers........

On 30/10/2022 at 20:49, MrWolf said:

From the companies who brought you the Road Rocket and the Red Hunter....

 

But it's hip and groovy baby...

 

 

Even the French couldn't make it chic...

 

 

You bought me a what?!

 

 

It would be interesting to know what each of these folks were really thinking...

 

 

Answers on a postcard...

I'd still rather ride that than a Harley..........

Robin,

If you do happen upon Mr Kohler, please do ask about a 100% new Saint.  It's the biggest gap in the GWR fleet in RTR terms - the early 80s mouldings are prehistoric.    Everything else has been re-done at least once by everyone since the Hornby Saint first hit the shops, so it'd sell for sure, in every livery from early Edwardian to early Diesel.

I would take two without thinking and then perhaps a third.

Thanks.

Christmas has arrived early and a not so long, but awaited SR coach is here too...

 Two from Bygone Wagons - I am a real convert to 3d printed models.  The two tank CORDON will joint their multi tank CORDON which came over a few months ago.  Prices are really reasonable if you can put together a two or three wagon order - postage per item is then comparable to UK postage almost.

This item comes partially finished - handrail needs a fix with glue as does the whole tank assembly - Refer to Russell when fixing that bit....drop pipes at the non handrail end.

The colour on these is so good that apart from a dod of paint on the handrail and perhaps some of the brake handle, you could just add decals, spray weather over the top, and finish with Testors without worrying about base coat.  Same goes for the CORAL:

With the option to run with or without the crates provided, this is a very welcome addition to the stock list.  Given that badly made whitemetal CORALs sell for £45 and up on evilBay, getting this sent as part of a bigger order from Tasmania was a bargain, and I'm sure it is better detailed than the white-metal ones I have seen in the flesh in toy fairs and exhibitions.

Finally something olive green.......and not WD owned....... a Hattons Genesis SR "Lav Compo"

This was chosen for conversion to an S&T Mess van as soon as they were offered for pre-order.  Two reasons for an SR version - it was due to arrive way before the GWR ones, and also - with a repaint it didn't matter what the base livery was - and a solid dull green is an easier base than overpainting cream.

It will be all over dull brown, and very grubby like the 1947 picture of an S&T van at Snow Hill, on the wonderful Glos and Warks photos site.  I am just debating whether to add roof boards or not.   I will use some licience and leave all of the gas lamp cowls on this - there are way more than on my 3rd Brake, and removal of all may spoil the roof - the roof material is incredibly thin compared to red or blue box items.  The small vents will probably pop out easily and ths be replaced with some proper ones from the detailing box.

It will probably be brush painted - the previous one has windows glued in so well than they would never come out without damage.   We will see.    I have NPCCS to sort first.

On the birthday of Hank Marvin, I hope that you are all happy and healthy.   

As we used to say during my time in the Army  "I'm Hank (Marvin), so lets go find some Frank (Bough) .  Stay safe.

On 23/10/2022 at 02:55, St Enodoc said:

Looking forward to seeing that.

 Me too - I get home tomorrow and there have been a few deliveries according to my doorbell camera....

Just about over COVID.  Managed to do a little bit of outdoors catch-up yesterday and today.  Murphy's Law - I booked Friday off work,,,,,,,,  UK days off for my firm mean not answering the less urgent calls and emails....

While I was measuring up for some fence wire, a nice man from Hattons called to say that something SR was on its way byt the card number I gave on my pre-order 3+ years ago doesn't seem to be working!!!!   All sorted now and despite PO strikes, it should be here while I am away in Eastern Europe.

There will also be a box from Tasmania....

On the 60th anniversary of the start of the Cuban Missile Crisis, I hope that you are all happy and healthy.

Thank you for the responses (whatever they are called)

I marshalled the Weedkiller cabbed tender up to a couple of engines in the cabinet today because I noticed how low the roof was on the Mainline TOAD - which makes the weedkiller cab look huge.

Dapol Mogul - spot on for dimensions

Double check with a new Dapol Manor - again, spot on for dimensions.....

I also stood a Hornby  "shovelling fireman" in the cab and it seemed the right height.

I am pleased to announce that the cabbed tender has been promoted from "projects" rows and is back in the display shelving above.   I will get around to getting decals made for it one day.   I now query the height of the Mainline TOADS..... 

I hope you are all happy and healthy - I am .......  nearly

One reason for the "fun jobs" was as a morale booster following the cab failure on the weedkiller train.     A few easy fixtures to keep team morale up....    and the other reason, unknown last week - my weekend houseguests from NZ brought me some COVID.....

Time usually spent doing work outdoors in the early evenings, has been spent on a few long overdue modelling tasks, and a couple of easy "young" jobs on the list.

6966 Witchingham Hall is a longstanding project - usual stuff (crew, coal, re=number etc)  but it needs a repaint for my era - from lined to unlined late 40s style.

The Modelmaster plates were laid onto the model plates which have a "depth" to them at the cab ends.  This is where the real life gap between the plate and the fire iron tunnel, or the reverser could not be made on the model.  The accurate Modelmaster plates made this deep moulded plate very obvious. 

So I carved away the rear side of the plate to make it the same thickness as the tunnel and the reverser.  The tunnel has come out OK, but if you know what to look for, the reverser isn't quite right, but it's still a million times better than Bachmann made, and is mostly hidden by the plate.  Job done!

The Dapol tanner-onners got renumbered and a change of branding from the two long names to three letters as is correct for late GWR,  More of that perhaps tomorrow if I survive the night.......

Don't forget your COVID top-up jabs - mine was due this week......fate.....

Perfect weathering on the Manor John.

I agree with one contibutor who said thta the toughest weather is to get that accurate "cleaned working  - but not bulled up" look.

Rich - If you could "stretch" the 3d body to 128mm I think you would have interest.  I would certainly take one for my crane.

I have shunted the weedkiller train off into the cabinet.  The tenders are painted but I'm struggling to get the cabheight correct.  I think the fall plate height of Mainline's 2251s is a little too high perhaps.

Consist length, including the two TOADS is 890mm or 222'6"    Weight I will calculate, but I think we are in the realms of 2251 or Dean Goods traction, in both 1:76 and 1:1 scale.

I will have a break from it and have another go.  I do want to get this as right as possible because the FRUIT D I did and the 6 wheel mess van, although not rivet countingly perfect, they are rather good.

I put the consist together and when the cab of the spray tender meets the TOAD roof it just looks daft.

I have got a guitar string for the linking hose along the tender tops, but I will not fit that until the consist is permanently together on the layout.  (Or I may consider making the three tenders one permanently linked up unit)

A couple of "fun jobs" next and then onto NPCCS failure rectification.

Hope you are all happy and healthy - have a good weekend when it arrives....

The Hattons chassis are not simple things to take 4mm out of either, especially the 6 wheelers.

Shame - I need a pucka tool van for my crane consist.  I'll have to put up with a 12t van and an old clerestory.

Rich

128mm.

Rgds.

Inspired by online photos of Mess vans 69 and 96 and the 6 wheeler 9988 taken at Snow Hill in 1947, here is my Mess Van for the weedkilling train.

2 battery boxes were added from the Wizard range.  They just about fit underneath without having to remove anything.  I'm assuming that despite remaining brown, the lettering would have been white for simple functionality and ease of painting.  (HMRS sheets used here).

After lettering but before "grot" and Testors Dullcote were applied, I had to mask the windows with Tamiya tape,  This is because they were so well glued in that I could not remove the glazing from the inside when the roof was off.

Because of the base vehicle not being fully accurate, I won't be awake all night over the white letters and ficticious running number.  Off to the cabinet it goes to join the adapted Fruit D from a few pages back.

Had a quick (2 hours) break from modelling to put "The Cabinet" on the wall.   This is a wood frame/plasterboard wall so hanging an extremely heavy anything on it had to be planned.

I will fill all the screwholes and paint the battens when the hall and stairs get decorated next summer.  That's my summer holiday sorted for 2023.......

But for now I can now enjoy seeing some of the stock, and this in turn will enthuse me into sorting the problematic NPCCS stock out one by one.....

This is about the only free wall , and long term plans for this are to move it to the railway room.    It's out of direct sunlight, so no fading to the stock, and near the room where I do my modelling.  So not a bad place for it.

I hope you are happy and healthy - it's a historical "non-event" sort of day (so far) so I will leave it there for now.

There is a difference between curried goat and goat curry.

Curried goat is from the Carribean and cooked very differently  to goat curry which is of asian origin.  They are two very  different but delicious meals.