SForrest10

This thread will be very intermittent, but I plan to put any progress I make in creating new Circuit boards to update older models.

I hate having locos that have their tail lights lit while pulling a train or day lights on at night, and picking the thing up of the track so you can flick a switch when the loco is DCC is a waste of the technology.

The plan is to make all the upgraded models have the features below.

• Switchable tail lights
• Switchable day/night lights
• Cab lights (optional installation and will require a cab light LED/Circuit board)
• Onboard stay alive (Optional to install the external capacitor to make it work)
• Simple to install and match the original footprint.

I may sell these on in the future but redesign would probably be necessary to allow easier circuit testing before been sent out. 

Hornby Class 60 Latest revision upgrade.

The first model we will look at is the latest Hornby class 60. This model uses common+ so is an easier model to start with.

It also uses plugged cables between the circuit board can cab replacing the old tension pin system of the older model.

Original board

Above is the original board still with an 8 pin DCC socket and no sound provision.

New Board

Here we can see the new board. The cab lights are connected into the original plugs by inserting new wires. The board then sends the power down these previously unused connections the the cab light PCB's that I purchased from illuminated models some time ago.

Note the speaker was too tall in this location due to the exhaust on the body shell. I ended up fitting a smaller speaker that i could fit lower down in the chassis.

And finally a video of it working. Note the wrong sound file is installed this is just for testing until the correct sound is acquired.

I will tint the LED's at some point to try and get a better colour temperature, then this one will be finished.

Steven

2 hours ago, RedgateModels said:

Interesting. Looking at photos on the internet it seems that the "headlights" were a bit of a moveable feast. some show two lit, others only on the left or only on the right. This is on top of the two outside white marker lights.

 

Looks like either version could be said to be correct

Yes I've seen every combination of lights, must of been no set rule as you say. I've made the decoder software so you can select what you like the same as the real thing.

I've just managed to get a ful APT set so started work on fitting DCC sound.

I was quite surprised that there is no right headlight fitted on the APT's light PCB.

Due to adding a 21pin decoder I have discarded the original PCB and made my own, I've also changed the lights to have left and right headlight.

The bar that holds the new LED in position also joins the negative of all LED's together allowing me to remove one of the original common positive wires.

I didn't have the correct colour temperature LED but a touch of yellow paint on the led surface got it close enough.

The original Right headlamp had to be disconnected from the marker lights by cutting the track with a knife. A wire could then be soldered to the led to allow it to be separately switched from the decoder.

The wiring was then installed into the generator bay of the DVT with the speaker and stay alive for the Loksound FX fitted under the floor.

The light bar had its capacitor removed and was wired to the 5 volts of the DCC decoder. This supply is connected to the stay alive capacitor for the chip. The light bar is slightly dimmer and looks much better.

Finally I added a bit of paint to the interior and people to add a bit more interest. Not completely accurate but much better than Hornby's attempt.

The Legomanbiffo sounds are great and highly recommended.

23 hours ago, Kraken said:

 

 

 

 

Thanks all, a few things to try. Sounds like I need to take Imperium decoder out of the C91 and try that in the DVT. I was just a bit puzzled as when I originally put a Bachmann 21-pin decoder in the C91 F0 worked, it was just the other functions I could not activate (turning off rear lights etc.) With the DVT I get nothing at all. 

This is the wiring for the DVT circuit board. You need a decoder with a logic level aux 3 output for cab lights. ESU decoders have this (apart from MKL types) and the newer Bachmann chips, would have to check manual for others.

Both marker lights are on the same circuit, so its a bit surprising if only one works. They do seem extremely bright though, I've had to set the dimmer in the chip very low, I haven't checked what resistors they are using.

5 hours ago, 50149 said:

As built MK4 DVTs and Class 91s had LH/OFF/RH Headlight switches. This was changed by GNER to a simple ON/OFF switch with both side being lit when on. I can’t remember the exact time frame when this mod was done but 98-99 timeframe springs to mind.

 

When the WIPAC light units were changed a few years ago they were modified back to Day/Night running positions.

Thanks for the info 50149, I've now fixed mine so they work correctly and made the lights switchable via output 4 on the decoder.. Removing the day night switch from the Class 91 also creates a good spot for a speaker. 

Class 91

DVT

New CL91 Speaker location.

After receiving some GNER DVT's the other day I noticed the lights looked odd.

They have a day/night switch on the underneath of the DVT and the class 91 but as far as I can tell the headlights were just on an ON/OFF switch in the cab, which operated both lights at the same time.

So the only functions the driver could operate on the real train is marker lights on/off, tail lights on/off and Headlights on/off. The only time you should see one headlight is if a bulb has blown.

Does anyone with a more knowledge know if this is correct? It looks like this may have changed to the conventional setup when the LED lights where installed.

Steven

Does anyone have the GNER version yet?

Would be interested to see the colour match with the older MK4 coaches.

Steven

An RRA wagon may be popular with the soon to be released YLA wagons from Revolution trains and all the existing BDA wagons. They saw plenty of use with pipes and oversized steel products and would make an interesting train formation.

Could it be a part of an engine start mechanism. Air start or cordite etc.

On 29/04/2021 at 21:09, Regularity said:

I followed the link (labelled as CLICK HERE) in your first post, Andy, and it took me to “World of Railways”. No mention on there of RMWeb Gold, or if there is, it was not obvious. 

Apologies if a more correct link has been posted in the thread, but I am loathe to wade through 23 pages of 25 posts each to find it.

 

Exactly the same problem here. I had a look through the site and no mention of RMWeb gold.

It was there previously but has disappeared.

Steven

Mine blew up because one of the connector pins on the underside made contact with the track while it was on. Not sure if this is still an issue on the latest versions.

This is the connector that plugs into the addon module.

Wish id notice earlier and i could of put some tape across.

2 minutes ago, mozzer models said:

there are around 20 companies working out of that building so all may be well

It says Cg&Co on the Companies house update.

Hi all,

 

I'm sure I should know this but what do the 'R' signs above the 50 mph speed limit markers mean? Any what about the 'ALL' diamonds? Note the 'check signal aspect' sign on the right. I took this photo last weekend on a trip to London and all trains were standing room only on a Saturday morning.

 

Thanks,

Bill

This video explains what the R means.

Steven

Dave mentioned using transfers to get the tartan seat patterns

Do they not sell tartan paint in 00 gauge!

I'll get my coat... 

The added realism with DCC, especially sound, is a superb addition to the hobby, as are working lights but my bug bear is seeing trains with the loco tail lights still on! Arggh! I'm not going to criticise the 156 [ even though I haven't received mine yet Charlie! ] but I for one hope that this situation is rectified in forthcoming new models. So, let the manufactures know.

 

I'm off for a brew

 

If running DCC could you give the cars separate addresses and then run as a consist. Then the lights would be independent for each car.

Like to ask 'Customers' a question with regards to Lighting Functions on UK Models, what do YOU  want to work on a 2 Car Modern DMU?????

 

As we are working on fitting 'EXTRA' lighting features!!   Let us know please.   Charlie

I'd like to see the marker light and Day running light active with F0, but have a separate function that switches over to the night light.

If this is not possible could you put the solder pad on the PCB for the night light as it makes it easier no modify :-)

I agree having the tail lights on a separate switch would be good, as you would only want the tail lights active on the trailing car too when in multiple.

Steven