Shedrail

While white in a dirty state could be described as grey, it will simply look like light grey paint. It is dirty white and a better treatment on models is to spray much diluted blackish-brown over the white. Otherwise, the other alternative to go for full blown dirty black(Precision Paints P981). Which is how they all ended up.

Larry,

Thank you for this you and other members of the forum have been most helpful.

Although it didn't take very long for the white, ex-Works roof to start turning grey, and not much longer for it to be grey. Presuming that this is for a model, the fact that most layouts are at a height that leaves the viewer looking down on the trains means that pristine white roofs stand out like a sore thumb.

Jim

Jim,

I agree, I am not keen on painting pristine white, perhaps I can find a grey colour which would represent the aged lead paint. However this discussion has helped me to understand why we see so many models with white roofs. Thank you all for being so helpful, I am not an expert on railways I just like to make models and try to get them as correct as I can.

Photographic evidence shows a return to white roofs after the war, certainly on coaches painted right at the end of the LNER's existence. However, videos of trains show a truer picture to my mind because cine was often shot from overbridges while stills-photographers more often shot trackside. Even on the GWR in pre-WW2 days, white roofs stood out on solitary vehicles in trains with roofs that were far from white. This applied to the LNER too. In the all-steam environment, white did not last long.

 

LNER coach roofs were white for a reason. Nearly all roofs were deal-boarded with canvas covering, which was protected with two or three coats of white lead paint. With the GWR, white was merely a tradition seeing as this company had gone over to steel roofs shortly after the 1923 Grouping.

 

Larry,

Thank you for your help I will purchase some white paint. I have always wondered why a railway coach for would be painted white.

There is plenty of info around that tells us that for pre-Grouping carriages, the cost of removing layers of various coloured paints was not considered worthwhile, and a brown paint scheme was applied to resemble the colour of teak. This colour varied but was probably milk chocolate in shade rather than dark chocolate as per GWR.

 

The impending Nationalization appeared to encourage some extravagance at some railway works after the war, and I have seen a photo of an ex.GNoSR coach in grained mock teak. Some LNER and constituent coaches even reverted to lining-out and white roofs, but that is something else.

Larry,

This is valuable information regarding LNER brown paintwork, do you know what colour the roof would be?

I have several six wheel coaches to paint and any information you might have would be very useful.

I've been offline for a few days, no heating, land line or internet - back to the dark ages..

 

I couldn't face the struggle with 6 laminations to make up the slidebars, so I ended up using a Ragstone upper slidebar with a modified DJH 9F crosshead with 1mm square NS section for the lower slidebars. I did use the splash sheilds from the kit. Yep - I filed the wrong side of one of the valve guides.

P1040112a.jpg

A good decision replacing the laminated slide bars, I used them and it was a nightmare trying to file the slot for the crosshead. Just building a David Andrews A3 using his slide bar arrangement which works very well and is much easier to fit.

I have used Xuron cutters for several years for removing etched parts with great success. As with all tools some care is required to get the best from them, I find that cutting at the tip of the blades produces the best results.

I have been following your build of this model, I have recently purchased a Class 55 from DJH and this build has provided me with a great deal of help and guidance with their kits.

Thanks for sharing your experiences.

Deltic/Class 55 out of stock at the moment, DJH require orders for 6 before they will produce any more. I have put my order in for one but with no date for supply. I look forward to seeing further pictures of your build.

Jeff,

Thank you for the pictures and description of the joining method. I would like to build one of these but have always been put off because of the central joint. I have asked DJH if they offer a service to join the two halves but they told me they did not.

Looking at the information you have sent it does not seem to be too difficult, at least there are parts supplied designed to provide a guide to align the two sections. I had imagined that you had to align two sections without any guidance features at all.

Thank you very much for your taking the time to provide the information, I think I will make a purchase.

Thanks Jeff

Jeff,

Any further progress with the Deltic. I am most interested in how the centre joint fits together, some pictures would be very useful.

Jeff, have you made any further progress. I was looking forward to see how the centre joint in the body went together.

Thanks for all your replies, guys.  Just purchased above book on ebay. (I remember this is the book I used to build LION quite a few years ago)

 

Thanks again, Ken

Thanks for all your replies, guys.  Just purchased above book on ebay. (I remember this is the book I used to build LION quite a few years ago)

 

Thanks again, Ken

Jazz,

If you visit lionlocomotive.co.uk there are pictures and some drawings of Lion.

I have often looked at this DJH locomotive but have always been put off because of the joint in the body. I have asked them if they offer service to join the two halves together but they said they did not.

I will be very interested in knowing how you get on with this part of the build, it may give me the confidence to have a go.

Best wishes and I look forward to the rest of the build, please keep the photographs coming.

Thank you. I often use the wheels to provide connections for the motor and have struggled to find a suitable plug and socket.

Jazz excellent build, can you provide the details of the mini plug and socket please. Thank you for all of the builds that you have put on this forum, they have provided both inspiration and knowledge to help me with the models that I have attempted.

Just have a look at the track here, so don't fret if yours is not up to scratch!!

 

Brave photographer!