resin001

Hi Rory

Yes the Mobile Control set 50113 does need the ECoS 50210 controller to function as it is only a wireless handset . The Cab Control system is probably what is confusing you as this is a stand alone system and the handset looks visually identical to the Mobile Control handset - The Cab Control system is intended for the US market only 

Regards

Bob 

Hi David ,

I also changed from Humbrol many years ago due to the inconsistency of quality across the range . My preferred enamels are now the LP range from Tamiya or Mr Color from Mr Hobby . In addition I use Aqueous Hobby Color acrylics from Mr Hobby and the XF range from Tamiya - I find the Mr Hobby range are excellent for brushing. I am currently testing Lifecolor paints on my 1/350 scale Yamato build and find them to be ok ( 3 thin coats by airbrush to get a perfect finish ) . Note all these paints are readily available in the UK - Hobbycraft stock the Tamiya XF range and the other paints are available on the web or good plastic kit model shops

Regards

Bob 

I am trying to source some more of these to fit in a rake of Parkside OO gauge pipe wagons. This set was from my late brothers collection -  the pipes are 70 mm long by 7 mm diameter and are metal

( they are magnetic ! ) . I have tried the common suppliers on the web but have had no joy so far - note my brother would never make anything apart from Metcalfe card buildings so I can strongly assume they were purchased as shown in the picture. I can make my own from brass tube but would prefer a RTR option in this case .

As Hornby are apparently featuring the new Black 5 tomorrow on TV , I thought it would be a good time to showcase my effort ! 

This is a Wizard ( Comet ) Models of the Caprotti version which I purchased in December 2020 prior to Hornby making their new release announcement - this has taken me 2 years to get to this stage - I had a few issues with the kit but it is now almost complete - weathering and a tweak on the bogie position. I have also pre ordered the Caprotti version from Hornby 

11 hours ago, Hound Dog said:

I am sure a lot of us out there who are less knowledgeable than yourself, would be most grateful if you would kindly post details of the changes you made, ie CV nos and values.

 

many thanks in anticipation

Ok no problem - please be aware that I am not sure if all DCC controllers allow index programming / changes to top end CV values , check before you change anything. I use ECoS and a Lokprogrammer 

Kadee Shuffle on F30 ( to match coupling sound ) : CV246 , 247 and 248 = 120 , CV Index , CV31 = 16 ; CV32 = 10  then CV324 = 64 

Master Volume : CV 63 reduced from 192 to 140 - This can be any value between 1 and 192 until  it meets the individuals requirement

Brake Setting on F8 : CV179 from 128 to 153 and CV182 from 126 to 0 - Pressing F8 will slow the loco , releasing F8 will restore the original speed

I have not done the headlight dimming yet but will advise accordingly 

I had an interesting experience playing with my sound fitted Deltic today - I applied the handbrake - F29 and then forgetting that the brake was applied tried to move the loco forward . The engine speed increased as expected but the loco wouldn't move - the hand brake was still ON !  I thought that the handbrake was a sound function only - not an actual physical brake WOW . 

I have programmed the 'Kadee shuffle' , reduced the master sound volume and set the brake key F8 so that it applies the brake when the loco is in motion

( Dynamic Braking ? )  . Just need to alter the brightness of the headcode lights but that will have to wait another day 

Excellent show in a superb setting , well done to all involved - hopefully it will be an annual event . 

This was my first visit to Statfold Museum , which is surprising as I live locally in Tamworth ! It’s a lot bigger than I expected with lots to see and do , I didn’t realise that they have so many events planned , for example next weekend is the Easter Eggspress and then a Jurassic Weekend at the end of the month. 
 

Attached photo of my attempt to build the Comet / Wizard " Caprotti 5 " - I started the build at the begining of 2021 - it may look rough at the moment but it actually has a smooth running chassis , although extensive modification was required to allow it to traverse 3rd radius curves , my target is to complete this before the Hornby version that I have on order arrives.    

I emailed Hornby on Monday following the announcement of the Caprotti - to ask them to clarify that it will indeed be a Caprotti ! I await a response , which I will share once received 

2 hours ago, Karl said:

 

The images that Hornby have used don't show a Caprotti valve geared Black 5 and there were two different designs of this too, a high running plate one and a low running plate one. I don't know any details on them but these are links to photos of the two I am aware of I can't get the links to work but if you copy and paste the below into your browser it should take you to the photo).

 

www.flickr.com/photos/robmcrorie/25145938620 

 

www.flickr.com/photos/64518788@N05/41297020051

 

 

Which Hornby are doing I don't know.

 

The Caprotti Black 5 No 44755 has no external valve gear and the low running footplate , only 2 caprotti's with higher footplates were built ( 44686 and 44687 ) I'm currently building the Comet kit as 44757 - so if Hornby actually model the former correctly I will buy one !  

Just received a set of steps from Hornby to replace one of the missing ones on my Hush Hush - many thanks Hornby - Now shall I put the spare on ebay ?

( Only kidding ! ) 

I checked my cc statement and Rails have taken money for my super deluxe version this morning - no email confirmation yet - its not an issue , just want to get it on my layout ASAP 

I have just had an email communication from Hornby reference a replacement step for my W1 as mentioned in one of my earlier posts - My enquiry has now moved into their spares department - and yes I will have to wait for another response - " which may take time due to the current circumstances and postal delays " . At least they provided me with a contact name , much better than just an email address that will not allow reply's .

I wish I had not watched Sam's video !   Whilst my version has a missing step and yes I am still waiting for a response / replacement part from Hornby , I decided to let my wife put is aside for Xmas without doing any running checks !! 

Just watched a few of the video clips that wander across my PC / Ipad - they are not actually advertising anything !  Unless you can buy sea turtles or nice colored caterpillars - is there a link hiding somewhere ?  

My locomotive arrived an hour ago - front step missing from the left hand side - not in the box , not in the detail pack or on the floor !

Will try and get a replacement step rather then sending back at this stage 

E mail sent to Hornby - initial automated response " it may take 7 days to respond to this mail " :   " Spares can take 28 days to ship " 

Lets see ---

Having seen the RM video posted above my pre order for the LNER version will be cancelled tomorrow - now what can I get instead ?  

Received yesterday - no quality issues ( just noticed the raised middle section of the footplate , other side is perfect)  , ref the colour it’s a bit lighter than some of my other LNER loco’s but it is Ok as far as I’m concerned 

Hornby took payment from my card yesterday for LNER , Thompson Class A2/3, 4-6-2, 514 'Chamossaire' - Era 3 , so hopefully on its way to me ASAP

Following on from my previous post , attached example of the MJT coupling box fitted to a Comet LMS 9' bogie 

On my recent Comet coach builds I have used the NEM coupling socket available from Dart Castings ref 2583 (  MJT Range ) . This can be soldered to the bogie or indeed if suitable fixed onto the bogie pivot . I've attached photo's showing this type of socket attached to a Bachmann Collett bogie and an MJT etched bogie - Fitting to a Comet bogie follows similar principles 

Is there an etch primer you can buy for use with an airbrush ?  - I use Halfords rattle can at the moment but would prefer the control of application achieved using my airbrush 

I did get some miniature sockets off the internet to allow me to make an adapter but the plug was not a good fit in the socket and kept popping out . Now I make my own adapter by cutting off the small plug leaving the wires attached to the servo and attach a standard plug ( I buy servo extension cable with standard plugs attached and cut these and solder the wires to the 1.7g servo ) . I use an Heathcote Electronics single servo drive unit so that I can test them on the bench prior to installation.