bordercollie

Hi Thanks for replies. If starting again I would use structural wood. Locally I cannot get laser cutting done and I have not achieved perfectly straight edges. However, I committed myself to birch ply. For the L-girders I would have preferred 9mm. but this is how unavailable close to me and to get it transported from Eastern States is prohibitive. I have 6mm birch ply. On reading. the comments I may adhere two pieces together to make a 12mm thick pieces for the flanges. If I run out of birch I will finish with structural pine of old skirting board. I am thinking of using small shelf brackets (approx 50x50 mm) screwed temporarily until glue has cured so won't need to drill and screw into end grain.

Hi I think what you are talking about is another type of construction, I can not remember what its called. What I am talking about is what is called L-girder. This where to bits of wood are joined at 90 degrees to each other. apparently this forms a strong structure where various forces act in different planes. Regards

Hi I did think about the problem of attaching the two parts of the girder. However, the adhesives available today are very strong and it appears that the wood would break before bond. Extra support can be had by supporting blocks at intervals. However, it is not easy to take them apart if needed. I may consider using some old hardwood skirting boards. Thanks

Hi I am contemplating using L-girder construction for part of my layout. I have been reading Iain Rice's books. In one book he suggests 4,5,6 mm plywood for girders. uprights etc. and in another 6-10mm. I was wondering if 6mm plywood has been proven to be strong/durable enough in the long term ( 6mm is the only bitch plywood that I can get). Regards

Hi If I understand correctly the maintenance of the signal is a major factor as to whether bounce,occurs. As my layout is a GWR branch c1929, could I assume, or not, that at this earlier date general maintenance would have been superior to later in time? If so would the generally better maintenance extend to a branch line situation. At this stage I am thinking that I may programme varying degrees of bounce from none to a very small amounts on the various signals. In a period of good maintenance would 3’ arms have any detectable bounce? Regards

Hi Thanks for info. I may try just using etch primer over tarnish before painting and assess the result. I had previously bought two etch primer products, one from SMS and one from Tamiya and I will try these first. I relation to Upol acid 8 etch I have read conflicting reports. In your experience, does it cover up fine detail due to the thickness of the product when applied? I assume that applying the lime scale remover would still need the scrubbing of the brass rather than just immersing it in the fluid. Regards Graham

Hi I am wondering if I need worry about introducing signal bounce for lower quadrant semaphore signals. I have seen several opinions and have seen videos of bounce. This bounce seems to be related to, at least some extent. the maintenance of signalling. Would maintenance have been better in 1920s GWR against recent videos of surviving signals? Given the small amount of movement in 4mm scale would it be worth doing anyway? Regards

Hi I am about to start hand painting a 4mm scale brass wagon underframe. After each session (over quite an extended time period) I have been washing the components under warm water and putting them into an ultrasonic cleaner with plain water (bore water). There is quite extensive tarnishing I have tried to clean it up with emery paper, small files and sanding sticks etc. I have had some success but I have bent or risk bending parts or breaking parts. Can the tarnishing simply be painted over after applying the primer? If not, is there anything I can soak the parts in to remove tarnishing without risk of damage to the soldered underframe? Best wishes

Hi My main problem is when using private messages. You simply cannot remove the ad, even temporarily, by pressing close button. You can read messages as a small part of my laptop screen is not covered by this ad. I had started a topic some time ago. All attachments posted on the topic had disappeared and become unavailable. I recently wanted access to some information from forum topic that I had not saved at the time. I asked the member who had originally posted a diagram if he could send this again. He agreed to do this. Thankfully, I must have previously saved a screenshot as soon as I received his reply. I had forgotten I had done this. So I tried again a week or so ago and I now have the above problem. It is now impossible to take a screen shot without a large portion being a advert. I now know that I have to live with that or pay the money. I agree that you can temporarily remove ads by pressing the close button when using forum but not when using messages. Regards

Hi If I understand you correctly the only way for this website to remain usable is to pay for a membership and that the the video can not be closed in any other way. It used to be possible for the pop-ups to be closed. Regards

Hi Not sure where to post this topic. I have just come across a new problem with using RMweb. When trying to access past messages, in particular, a digitrains an pop-up advertising video comes up. I am used to this and usually pressed the close button and I could carry on. However, when closing the video, a static image advertising digitrains appears. This image can not be closed or moved and makes reading replies difficult. I queried this and received a reply saying I must now pay a subscription to access RMweb without this pop-up obscuring a large part of the screen. Has this now become the norm. Has anybody else come across this problem? Regards

Hi I have some birch ply that I intend to construct my baseboards and frames. I have seen it suggested that plywood should be protected in some way to reduce warping from moisture. I was wondering if sealing with paint, varnish or some other way would effect how PVA adheres when ballasting and joining of the plywood. Regards

I have just about decided on building a traverser for my 4mm scale layout. I have found a lot of information re building one. However, I can not find a recommendation on the spacing of the track with a view to the handling and re-railing of stock. When placing two pieces of track at roughly 44.5 mm between track centres I can just manipulate a bogie coach back on to track. However, I am wondering if there is an ideal compromise between not having to make traverser to wide and ease of stock handling. Regards

Hi All Thanks for your replies. I think I will use 1 servo for each point. Mechanically linking 1 servo seems to be beyond me at present. Best wishes Graham

Hi I have finally decided that I will use MERG Cbus. I have also decided to use servos. My questions are: a) Can a crossover be controlled by just one servo? b) If so, what be a good, and preferably simple, way to connect the servo to the two switches? c) Is it a good idea anyway, considering the relative cheapness of servos? Regards