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hayfield

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  1. hayfield

    Rails now in place

    By hayfield,

    A couple of photos of the junction now all the rails are in place
     



     
    I must make more room on my work bench, using a building board 4' x 1' is a bit large for my bench.
     
    Next job is to cut the isolation slits with a cutting disc and fit the tiebars, at least I can do this with the turnouts off the building board and they come off in half as they have been built as two units.
     
    Now the moment of truth testing with a loco, loco wheels are thicker than my wagon wheels so there may be a bit of tweaking so all runs smooth.
  2. hayfield

    Turnouts finished

    By hayfield,

    I have finished the 2 turnouts I was asked to build, the first was a SMP 60" radius built to a B6 size, Its some time since I have used SMP products, I feel that the Paxoline sleepers are not as good as C&L fiberglass ones as the widths seem to vary a bit (the ones in this kit were quite good)and the material seems a bit weaker than fiberglass. Also the rail seemed to be softer.
     

     
    I did use the SMP tiebar, but found my normal style easier to fit the blades close to the stock rails.
     

     
    Next was the C&L turnout, I fit the common crossing first, then the stock rail.
     

     
    Followed by the other stock rail, the switch and check rails. I have also soldered a wire from each stock rail to its switch rail as an electrical bond. Both have been tested and run fine.
     
    Thursday I did a bit more to a GWR pannier chassis I am building in P4, hopefully I will be able to do some more tomorrow. I also put a couple of body parts of a K's 57xx into caustic soda to remove the paint, last night these were removed and washed, all the paint came off and the 4 bits which had been glued came appart.
     
    I have a spare set of 4'7" drivers in P4 so the 57xx may become my third P4 loco. On the other hand I might just build it using the K's chassis which came with it.
     
    Also yesterday a Jamieson GWR King (body and chassis)arrived in the post, its missing some tender axle boxes and front bogie. The question is do I build it as per the kit in 50's standards with the brass bar chassis, or do I add extra detail and use a spare Comet King chassis I have.
  3. hayfield
    Not listed much lately, one of the reasons is that I had a problem with a couple of programs including my camera link,another having new windows fitted to the house (had to tidy up the workroom and stop using for a few days)also sorting out the seedlings in the greenhouse and planting some of them out, but most of all the bench has been full of turnouts for the past 6 or 7 weeks.
     

     
    EM gauge junction which was built on a gentle curve just to add a couple of complications. Brooke Smith timbers and C&L chairs and rail. The turnouts are slightly different in size as the inside one is on a sharper radius.
     
    The build took longer than I thought, but mostly as other things got in the way (bank holidays and the above) but once a couple of problems were ironed out with the curved part of the crossover it was an enjoyable build.
     

     
    EM gauge B7 turnout built with C&L plastic sleepers and chairs. As you can see I build these on tracing paper and attach the sleepers to it with thin strips of double sided tape for transit.
     

     
    3 different methods, top turnout EM B6 with Brook smith ply sleepers, middle the C&L EM B7 (plastic sleepers) and the trusted Copperclad turnout, this one is a P4 A5 which I built just to see if I could build one in P4
     

     
    A close up photo of both wooden and plastic sleeper built turnouts. Which is better? close up I think the wooden sleepers look best, but then its easier getting a good finish with wood stains than painting plastic. However those with artistic tendencies can paint the plastic sleepers to look like wood. Then again from normal viewing distances can the average person tell the difference ? And from a distance well finished copperclad track looks superb.
     
    Anyway back to the trailing crossover which is on the bench
  4. hayfield
    With the cast part of the chassis unglued, the first (cast) part now fits flush with the footplate when glued to the main part of the chassis. With no cylinders it still looks a bit high, but it now matches up with the tender buffer height as well as other locos buffer heights
     

     
    The 4 sides of the tender have been stuck together and I have just used Milliput to fill the gaps and rebuild a broken corner of the sides. Hopefully I will not make as many mistakes on this part of the build
     

     
    These are the parts of the cylinders, the front parts of the cylinders have been stuck to the chassis block. This was the easy part as it was only in 2 bits. The rear one which is in 3 bits will take a bit more effort in gluing to the block in lineing them up.
     
    Recently I have not had much spare time to model, however when driving to and from work and other spare moments I have been able to think about the problems and come up with a solution. Much better than thinking on your feet with the items in front of you.
     
    Nice to have a session that has all gone well, normally its 2 steps forward and one back.
  5. hayfield

    GNR Atlantic

    By hayfield,

    Last night was one step forward and one step back.
     
    The good news is that electrically the chassis works on its own and when attached to the loco, no shorts on the bodywork.
     
    The bad news is the axle, or rather the gears. The plastic gear which is a pushfit on to the axle slips. I have tried drilling a hole to the axle and filling it with Superglue and epoxy. Neither held.
  6. hayfield

    K's GNR Atlantic

    By hayfield,

    Not too much done tonight (had to make some jam) The splasher has been filed back, just need to grind the rear back with a mini drill to clear the wheels. Rear step units fitted (nice new castings) along with the cab roof, buffer beam, dome and drivers seat.
     
    There is a dent in the side if the fire box that I have just noticed, it needs pushing out a bit and the point of the dent filled. The hand rail nob holes have been filled ans sanded. Also found the tender bufferbeam, so only a tank vent and 2 buffers missing.
     
    Happy with progress to date
  7. hayfield
    For the past 2 weeks I have been building turnouts for others, I think it was 5 00 and 3 EM ones and repaired a 3 way. So I fancied a change.
     
    A friend gave me a K's GNR Atlantic kit. It had been built and then dismantled. Well on monday once I had finished and posted everything I decided to have a go at it. The motor turned the wheels but the cylinders had been badly built and they faced a bit inwards so the crossheads rubbed against the drivers. After one of the piston rods snapped I decided to dismantle the cylinders and rebuild them once I had new crossheads.
     
    I decided to get on and rebuild the body. As some of the parts were still stuck together I tried to fit them together, as the fit was not to good I got out my old saucepan and dunked the parts into boiling water. Now they were all seperate. The footplate shoud have been in two parts however the larger part had been broken. After a little fettling I got all glued in place except where the footplate had broken in 2 which I soldered back together.
     

     
    Last night all I had time to do was to repair one of the splashers with Milliput, as it had been reduced in size!!. To night I filed it to shape and found that the bottom and other end also had been reduced, so I have built it up and will file to shape tomorrow. I also filled in the hand rail holes which were too big and did a bit of gap filling where the footplate had broken.
     
    The tender needs a bit more dismanlting, so the pan will come out again in a bit.
     
    I am working in the dark as the kit has no instructions, and I cannot see that any of the mags have done a plan. Still that half the fun.
     
    A Bullied coach plan book came in the post this morning that I won on Ebay. The cost of posting it was more than I paid for it including postage, I might send the guy the difference as I feel a bit guilty.
  8. hayfield

    GNR Atlantic

    By hayfield,

    All I seem to do is add a bit more filler and sand it.
     

     
    This evening I sanded those parts I filled last night.Pity I had not read the other threads first, however this kit had been hacked about a bit and I might have ruined the footplate had I tried to solder it up on its own. Its not a 100% square, the photos make it worse though
     

     
    Every time I look at the loco I find missing parts, for some reason a lump of the footplate has been sawn off, back with the Milliput.
     
    Also you can see the state of the cylinders is a bit of a problem, as they have been hacked about, I will have to think what to do with them.
     
    I will now read the info I recieved this morning.
     
    I also recieved a Lima Prairie today in the post. It was advertised as a K's kit, the photo was not that good so I took a gamble. I emailed the seller with the problem and he has already sent my money back and will pay for the return postage, can't ask for a better service than that. Pity it stated that it had Romfords as my 44xx has old K's mk2 wheels
  9. hayfield
    As the roof grows the structure stiffens up (thankfully)I have enough roof pannels to complete 3 out of the 5 tripple spans. I have also started the capping on both the roof tops and brickwork over the entrances. I will carry on with the foofs until I use up the pannels. I will then order some more along woth some 1mm microstrip to make the north lights with.
     
    I will fit again the barge boards to hide the join where the roof meets the walls. Before fitting the downpipes I will see if a brick pelmet looks any good at the bottom of the walls. I will need to build the chimneys/ smoke jacks. I will try the ones in the kit to see what they look like
     
    I will also try and contact Wills to see if they will sell me some extra sprues for the capping and the smoke jacks if they have the look I am after, I have the capping they sell with the chimney/roof packs and will see if it matches first.
     

     
    I am still wondering about the inspection pits, I guess in the end I will put them in but it will be a pain cutting through the 9mm MDF. I will use brick sheets at each entrance for the floor covering, however as it will be dark inside the shed I will use plain plasticard further in then blend the two together.
  10. hayfield

    Railcar update

    By hayfield,

    Over the weekend I did some more work on the railcar

     
    I sprayed the body with satin varnish so I can now fit the windows. Also chopped the Hornby seated driver about and he fits nicely in the drivers seat.
     
    Wipers fitted to each of the 4 wheels, I think the gear set is 30-1 which is a bit fast on my H & M Clipper unit so will try it on a feed back unit once the layout is up and running. Roof will be fitted once the glazing has been completed and some people have been installed. W irons have been shortened and painted black
     

     
    This is the kit of parts (see earlier blog comment) and instructions from the No Nosense Kit (x MTK)of the Bristol Railbus. Each side has 2 bits, 2 ends, floor and air vents. Its part kit and part scratch built project. I doubt if I will use the floor as i prefer one made from copperclad. I might use the High Level Pacemaker Traction Pack for this one.
  11. hayfield

    MTK Railcar resurfaces

    By hayfield,

    Re the J52, I put on the wrong size letters and decided to remove them, There was something wrong with the Humbrol paint from the can I used, and in takeing off the LNER transfers it affected the black paint. I gave the damaged parts a sand and have given the loco a respray of black from an older Humbrol spray can. If this does not work then I will have to strip it down and start again
     
    Anyway last night after having the problems with the J52 I decided to do a bit more with the Waggon und Maschinenbau rail bus.
     

     
    I cannot remember how long ago I started building it, last year I painted it Green (Malachite)and built up the roof. Last night I masked off the central band and painted it aluminium as I did with the roof (roof should be grey though)and painted the seats and internal body brown.
     
    Chassis needs pickups, body will be varnished so I can fit the glazing. Once its all running OK I will fix all the seats in place, glue on the roof and seal the joins. Must get back to the transfer company as I want a set of wiskers and numbers (I ordered them but some how my cheque was not cashed and the order not delt with).
     
    Have a MTK (No Nonsence kits now) Bristol Rail Bus to build, well its 2 sides and 2 ends. What year will I start it? well I only brought it last year.
  12. hayfield

    Engine shed update

    By hayfield,

    A second kit arrived yesterday so I could continue with the build. I have started to built the third bay.
     
    I have tried to load a photo but its not happenning, still nice to have the web back. Will post a photo once I find out what the problem is.
  13. hayfield

    BEC LNER J52

    By hayfield,

    I have started to rebuild a BEC LNER J52 I got off Ebay quite cheaply,the paint job was not very good. So a soak in Nitromores last night and a wash clean, all there was then to do was picking off the odd bit of paint and glue.
     
    Tonight I have stuck the two body sides/tops to the bunker casting, smoke box and footplate.
     

     
    I noticed that where the 2 body halves joined, the joins was not very good (the builder had put some filler on them). So I decided to do likewise and will leave the filler for 24 hours to set completely
     

     
    I am re-building this loco as a thank you for a friend who did me a good turn. I have 2 other of these. One I built 2 years ago from an unstarted kit, and have a body built by someone else (another Ebay item which no one was bidding on) neither of these show the same problems, either I forgot that I had to do a bit of filling or the castings were better.
     
    Also won another Wills 2 road engine shed off Ebay tonight (see layout blog) got it a couple of pounds cheaper than the Ebay shops and hopefully it will arrive quicker that the one I brought a couple of months ago as I had to wait nearly 2 weeks.
  14. hayfield
    The timbering has been finished, but my thoughts turned to an eBay purchase of a Southeastern Finecast 02. Bought it as a part built 00 gauge loco, badly painted and in 00 gauge with a M7 box and a few parts from said M7 not the 02. Still did not pay too much and missing parts plus a new chassis etch and box ordered from SEF( The M7 box can hold one of my Wills M7's)
     
    Anyway back to the 02, the Body was badly painted in grey and had a few traces of black paint. Chassis removed and the body was soaked in a caustic soda solution.
     

     
    All the paint softened and washed off and the glue in most places degraded, so the parts can be cleaned up, the footplate had to be repaired and I decided not to remove the sides as they are a good fit. I also removed the old foot step pegs which had broken off into the footplate. At the same time as I ordered the new chassis I won a lot on eBay which had a set of Gibson milled frames along with other parts, so in theory I have 3 chassis
     
    I now need to look at some photos as I need to know which version to build. I will use Markit wheels with a Highlevel gearbox, I would like a small can motor 1015 ? It came with a 1024 open frame motor and Gibson wheels, might be worth moving these on.
     
    Will start on the common crossings for the track over the weekend
  15. hayfield
    Not much going on other than I will model the engine shed area as it is now. The turnout to the shed needs a bit of alteration, as the length of the switch is fine but the crossing needs to be a smaller angle which in turn will then need to be curved slightly. Have been too busy to work on it.
     
    I have found both some stained turnout timbers in thin ply to match some EM gauge Society 8'6" sleepers along with plenty of Exactoscale and C&L 2 bolt chairs.
     
    I bought a Southeastern Finecast part built 02 loco, 00 gauge with Gibson type wheels and small open frame motor. The build quality is not good and was in a M7 box with the remains of a M7 chassis etch and not the 02. As I am building to EM gauge I ordered a new chassis etch, steps, and roof which were either broken or missing. I have a couple more Wills 02's so one may get the 00 gauge chassis and I have a box-less M7.
     
    By coincidence I won a lot off eBay with lots of spare parts including a set of Gibson Milled mainframes and etched hornblocks, so I may end up with a pair for the layout !!
  16. hayfield
    Looking at the old plan I was sent whilst the details are different I am assuming both the running line and the engine shed positions are the same
     

     
    I have altered the size of turnouts and added a coupe of trap rails, I guess I should extend a couple of the timbers which the outer catch point is on
     

     
    Overall shot of the area, will try and see if this matches with the photos of the actual turnout
  17. hayfield
    Been given a copy of Bodmin (historic) station plan, which is a great help
     

     
    Obviously similar but not quite the same as today's layout, but then I am not copying it. Thrown a spanner in the works as I was going to start the right hand turnout, still have visitors coming to see us tomorrow so my plan of having Thursday as my modelling day has not even lasted the first week
     

     
    Close up of the engine shed area, the trap points are after the turnout not in it. However the I have the area the track is in. Will go for the modern layout with double engine shed rather than a single one with a carriage siding
     
    Looking at the plan getting from the station building to the bridge is between 12' and 13', that will be the length of my railway room, so there will need to be some form of compression, part of the station building low relief, shorten the gap between the turnouts and shed. Also shorten the distance between the end of the shed and the junction, bring the bridge a bit closer, curve the track more on the Parkway route, loose 6" on the platform length. Still none of this alters the cameo
  18. hayfield
    It seems like I have had nothing but turnouts on my work benck for the past 2 months, thought I would share what has been on the bench over the past 2 weeks
     

     
    Earlier this week I finished a set of 4 EM turnouts using ply sleepers and C&L rail and chairs.
     

     
    Today I have completed a pair of EM copperclad turnouts again using C&L parts
     
    Both sets of turnouts were a pleasure to make, the copperclad one made a change as they were quite quick to build and see working, where as the Ply and chair ones took much longer and the crossings had to be made as a stand alone item.
     
    I now have 8 common crossings to build as stand alone units, at least 3 are 3/4 built.
  19. hayfield

    Junction Finished

    By hayfield,

    Tonight I finished the Junction, I fitted the tiebars and gave it a thorough testing, a couple of minor tweaks were needed, mostly to open up the check rail gaps a fraction.
     

     
    Testing is a bit Heath Robinson with wires crock clipped to the rails.
     

     
    Photo of it in 2 parts, thankfully it fits back together.
     
    Now to get out the sleeper stain on some Brooke Smith ply sleeper strips
  21. hayfield

    Last weeks work

    By hayfield,

    Junction still on the workbench
     

     
    Had a busy week at work and done very little on thursday or friday, but finished laying the timbers.
     

     
    For ease of posting the junction is being made in 2 parts, see the red line in the right hand side. It would have been easier to build as 1 unit then cut in 2 but this leaves a gap made with the slitting disc which would have to be filled to keep all in line.
     
    Yesterday I have fitted all the 5 V's and the crossover stock rails, with joints made where needed.
  22. hayfield
    I sanded flat the filler I put into the gaps on the SMP turnout, a lot easier with no rails in the way. Now just have to fit the rails.
     
    Also built the common crossing for the C&L plastic turnout
     

     
    Just placed on the sleepers, as it does not show up on the paper plan too well.
     
    The V was soldered up in a simple jig (hi tec engineering)
     

     
    Then the wing rails were soldered to the V with scrap brass shim
     

     
    2 extra bits of shim hold the frog in gauge, then the ends were cut level with the rails. Now for the interesting bit, threading all those chairs. But thats another night.
     
    The postman arrived with some interesting bits. A set of Alan Gibson mainframes for a GWR 36xx (scratch built body I got off Ebay) with some 2mm Hornblocks and a K's 57xx, part built and some of the birs painted. These are now soaking it caustic soda. It was missing one of the axle screws (I had a spare) and also missing the worm gear so will fit a set of Romfords. Won a Jamieson GWR King on Ebay this afternoon, again part built and some parts missing. Will be interesting to see whats there when it arrives.
  23. hayfield

    To nights jobs

    By hayfield,

    A few little jobs done to night
     

     
    The crossover is finished, sleepers gapped, tiebars fitted and isolation breaks cut through the rails. A right selection of locos used for testing, Mainline J72, K's Terrier, Wills Pannier and a Comet Auto tank chassis
     

     
    The SMP turnout has had the sleepers gapped and filled prior to fitting the rails, the idea is to see if its easier filling the gaps and sanding them before fitting the rails.
     

     
    Building a C&L turnout in 00 to a B6 size. I build these on tracing paper and use 2 thin strips of double sided tape to hold the sleepers in place. Sleepers cut and fitted, next job is to build the common crossing. The V's are soldered together in a simple jig, then the crossing/wing rails are soldered to the V with 3 pieces of scrap brass shim which is positioned to sit on the sleepers.
     
     
    Once I have finished these two turnouts I can get on with an etched Pannier chassis I want to build in P4, so have been re-reading Iain Rice's etched chassis book in my lunchtime
  24. hayfield
    This trailing crossover was on my bench overnight, and after a wet mornings golf and a lengthy drying out session in the clubhouse drinking large hot coffees modelling time this afternoon was restricted. Still I managed to get all the rails soldered up and tested with a wagon.
     

     
    Just need to cut the rails to isolate the V's and gap the sleepers, the plan was made by someone else (better than my work) and is on a slight curve. Large radius curves (cannot remember the size) which will allow big locos to run through at speed. Built to 00 gauge.
     

     
    Down memory lane, an old SMP 60" radius kit I have been asked to build. Not used the SMP plan, built to a B6 size. I have gapped the sleepers first and will fill them before fitting the rails, as it will be easier to sand flat without the rails in the way. Some time since I have used paxoline PCB rather than fiberglass which is much stronger.
  25. hayfield
    Holidays, DIY on the house, a couple of turnouts and finishing off a couple of other locos have got in the way of the Atlantic lately but I have done a bit more on it over the weekend.
     

     
    The tender needs a bit more filler where the top plate fits the body, I need to make a new air vent and find some buffers.
     
    I have fitted the cylinder block casting, as its a butt joint I not too certain how well it has stuck, the cylinders need filling and I need to replace the cross heads / rods as they are soft whitemetal castings and I broke one.
     
    Also the front bogie fouls the chassis, I will try and alter the hole in the bogie and move it 2 or 3 mm forward.
     
    Still it runs well on the straight track, and its a lot better than I thought it would be a few weeks ago.
     
    The other locos I repaired are 2 Wills 1864 Pannier tanks, one which I painted some months ago and needed the chassis building, and another which came off Ebay with the pickups mangled, both now work and I also fitted some pickups to a K's Terrier another Ebay buy, this now needs some footsteps and the side air compresser.
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