hayfield

 

 

As mentioned the points work perfectly. I don't have sufficient knowledge to engage in the 4-SF debate - all I know is that I'm satisifed with how my variety of scratchbuilt and kitbuilt wagons run nicely through the points with no wheel-drop at all.

 

Sounds like a great idea to do a diorama until your modelling room is ready. Shouldn't be too hard to design something that can be expanded into a larger layout later. A Bodmin style joint layout sounds great, not least with your trackbuilding skills.

 

I think I've heard about that technique for switching before. Would be interesting to see it in operation. I didn't think I'd worry about a closer-to-scale tiebar myself, but once you start looking closely at things it suddenly begins to matter! 

Some of the debates about 00-SF/4SF have been well over the top, it both works and looks better than standard 00 gauge. I was going to build the diorama to 00-SF through the crossings using mostly RTR plain track. Your new layout has changed my mind about using chaired track (with key detail) on ply sleepers, which would mean building all the track to 00-SF standards, which in its self is not a problem, but why not do it in EM gauge !!

The tiebars will be plastic rod and cosmetic, its the sleeper which acts as the tiebar so should give the impression of working prototypically and have no unsightly lumps of copperclad or plastic giving the game away

Sorry cannot add a photo to the reply

Mikkel

Very impressed with the workmanship, especially the ballasting of the turnouts points, lately I have grown fonder of the Exactoscale plastic timbers, especially when used in conjunction with plastic plain track. But I must say your hand built plain track on ply looks far superior to RTL plastic.

Its a great pity there are no GWR slide chairs and special chairs available, still cutting and shutting 2 bolts in conjunction with them is far better than having nothing

At the moment I am building a Masokits etched 2 bolt turnout, I could either be wrong or change my mind but with the exception of the slide chairs I feel the moulded chair is far easier to use and looks better. Still a long way to go in the build though

In my recent house move I decided to dispose of the 2 layouts (small) I was building, one was just a stop gap till I moved, the other intended for use at the club. As my modelling room is many months off I had thought of building a diorama which could be turned into a small layout later, I have a plan based on Bodmin General and if modelled in a preservation era I could run both GWR and SR locos together. Looking at your layout has stirred up my thoughts on this project.

It has also confirmed ply timbering is the route I should take, as I am going to hand build the plain track and have plenty of GWR chairs (both Exactoscale and C&L). The section around the engine shed is the diorama, but I will be swapping the turnout into the shed (which has 2 catch points within it) for a double slip. This I hope will keep the complicated piece of trackwork but add hopefully to the operational interest and add an extra loco storage road. I have decided to build it to 4SF + 2 mm gauge.

The other thing is rather than a tiebar to change the switch blades I am using a copperclad timber (duly gaped for electrical isolation) with the slide part of a cast slide chair soldered to it and the switch rails soldered to the slide chair half. The outside parts of the slide chair will be soldered to the stock rails, then use plastic microrod to represent the tiebars

Its been done to a really nice and sympathy standard which captures the era its from. Well done

Mac

I have been asked to build a curved diamond (within a scissors crossing) in 00 gauge, which in theory should be a bit simpler than a slip. After a couple of abortive attempts of building the crossing part (I knew it would be trouble) I had a chat with Len Newman (Exactoscale) who confirmed it would not work in 00 gauge. In the end I have managed to get the crossing to work in 00-SF where the gaps between the rails are much finer.

The last resort, was to make a switched diamond, which is what you have done within the slip. I must congratulate you on a super bit of track building, especially as you must have been tinkering with it to make it work

Mikkle

Just stumbled across your blog (looking up LNWR chairs) and found it very interesting reading.

Just about to start a B6.5 turnoutusing stained Brooke Smith turnout sleepers (4mm wide) which are sold in 50' packets (P4 Society?)and just cut to length.

I dont know if they sell plain sleeper width (3.3mm wide) you can bet both 8' 6" & 9' pre cut sleepers, 8'6" will be fine in 00 gauge for 9' sleepers.

I could be wrong but the Exactoscale ply sleepers are 1.6mm thick where as C&L I think my be a bit thinner. The Brooke Smith come in at about 0.8mm and the Timbertrack Slip I have (Building a single with C&L and Exactoscale special 4 bolt chairs next)is about 1mm.

On track pannels, some companies used 12" sleepers at both ends of the pannels and also reduced the spacings between the last 2 sleepers. No idea what GWR practice was

My view is that Ply sleepers do look better when stained and weathered than painted plastic, as they seem to absorb whatever is used to both ballast and paint/stain them.

Butanone seems the best solvent to use as it allows the plastic to seep into the grain of the ply before drying, other types of solvent either dry too quickly and or do not melt the ABS. I have also heard that the MEK sold today differs from what was available in the past and Butanone is much nearer what was available.

I have tried the ply and rivet method (have 2 different presses)and have built turnouts and track. I look at those who still use the method demonstrating at shows. But cannot see why they still use the method. OK on the odd occasion using chairs I have had to use the odd copperclad sleeper (double slips). But with the advent of Exactoscale small, bridge and special chairs for both the obtuse (K) and common crossings the copperclad sleepers may now be redundant.

I look forward to seeing the progress both on this and the next section with turnouts on

David

Looking forward to seeing your layout, as I am just starting out in narrow gauge modelling from standard gauge

Frank

Just found your blog, layout looking very good and nice to see some scale trackwork

Dean

Nice work and one not often modelled. I built a box which straddled 2 tracks for an old layout I built, think the plan must have cone from a Railway Modeller. Should look nice.

John

Never have guessed they were Hornby coaches spliced together, I have a BSL 70' Compo. Look nice and big against 60 footers.

Just brought some K's Dean bogies as I have a few Ratio 4 wheelers that I want to splice together, too much other things on the work bench.

John

Dean The shed looks great, how long before it gets filled up. At some point we will be moving (may be 5 years time)have been told that my next workshop will be in the garden.

When I brought this house all I was interested in was how big was the loft, the next house will be where can I put a shed !!!

My camera batteries are on charge so no photos tonight.

The Milliput worked very well both as a gap filler and to replace the top curved corner which had been broken off. 1st try on the corner is nearly there, but the outside curve was a little to round. I sanded it to shape and after testing a couple of methods of replicating the coal rail slits, built it up a bit more.

I ran out of quick set epoxy last night, so I called in at B&Q and brought some quick set metal epoxy. Its a lot thicker than standard epoxy, so could be used as a gap filler. It states on the box that it can be drilled, sanded, tapped and painted.

I have tried it out on repairing the cylinders, glueing a bolt to whitemetal and made a blob to try out the claims on the box. Will have to go back and buy some normal epoxy in the next day or so.

Recently I have used Milliput to fill gaps and build up parts which have broken, it can be shaped to size/design, once cured sticks fast and can be sanded or carved to shape. Stays workable for some time.

Tonight I brought some quick set metal epoxy (thought it was quick set epoxy glue).I have tried it on glueing some whitemetal parts together, its quite thick so can be used as a filler. Says on the box it can be drilled, sanded, tapped and painted. I have left a blob on a test piece to try out these claims.

Thanks, but I am a bit fearfull what it will look like with a coat of primer on. This may be the first loco I weather.

I do not know what was used to strip the paint off,if it was done by my friend who gave me the model it would have been caustic soda. Whatever it was you can see the tarnish on the tender which has not been cleaned and burnished. But seeing his models he would never had butchered the castings.

The tender wheels are quite a tight fit (limited side ways movement), I will pack out the front and rear ones but the centre ones will have to have some side play. I will have to put some insulating tape on the body where they might rub. That also goes for the bogie wheels touching the chassis and the rear trailing wheels.

Thanks for the replies, I may try and refit the gears and axles once I have degreased them and the bearings. My drills will not touch Romford axles.

Alan, progress on my Atlantic has been slow as work and gardening have got in the way as well as a hectic social life at the weekends. Now I have a couple of turnouts to build.

I have painted the chassis and put it back together, the loco has 25mm Romfords which seem a tad too big, I see it should have 6' 8.5" wheels but as the 00 flanges are over scale I am thinking to either replace them with 24mm ones or cutting back some of the metal (out of sight)on the body and or lowering the chassis by ten or twenty thou. Any thoughts please

John

I have a built one let me know if you need details etc

Mick thanks

I have been sent the Loco Modeller article along with the K's body sheet, a copy of the chassis sheet would be great as I would like to see what the cylinder parts should look like and also how many other parts are missing.

Looks like Martin gave me a nice jigsaw to build.

Thanks again John

 

Just got the can out and waiting for the glue to soften. I can see the body being stripped down again

Cab side has come off I can now see where the bottom has been filed to fit !!

sorry didn't see the bit about the footplate.

You are quite correct, one cab side is still leaning forward a bit, the picture is at a angle which highlights it more. Looking closley the right hand cab side has been filed at an angle at the bottom (rear splasher had been attacked on the same side) so the cab is tilting forward at the top.

As the kit has been hacked about a bit (may be why it was dismantled)I am not going to dismantle the loco, but will try and refit the cab side. Loads of Nitromores along the joints might do it.

The photo magnifies the problem but its anoying me now.

Just got the can out and waiting for the glue to soften. I can see the body being stripped down again

What Alan said, really - I'm following his thread and I shall follow this one. Can I ask where you sourced the steps? I acquired two a number of years ago and contacted NuCast for spares then. I was told at the time that I'd had pretty much the last bits he had and he wouldn't be making any more.

Martin who gave me the kit had them made, as well as a set in the box Martin a couple of months ago sent me a tin of whitemetal bits. There are another set in the tin. Knowing how generious Martin is he would be very pleased in knowing that they have helped someone else out. I have a left and right hand set in the new casting and a right hand one from the old kit.

If anyone had a tender breather pipe spare as it only has 1 I would be gratefull

Send me a PM with your details and which ones you want

John

 

Good luck with your build - looks very good so far.

 

Regards,

 

Alan

Alan

I wished I had seen your thread before I started. I would have built the cab first, then fitted it to one half of the broken footplate. Still I am an average modeller and it looks better in the flesh than on screen. Love to have a scan please as I am building this in the dark, no instructions plans or anything.

I broke one of the piston rods, and the pistons have been hacked about. Which Comet crosshead is it please so I can buy some.

Will have a propper read of the thread over the next few days

Thanks for the offer and encouragement.

John

These Atlantics are always going to be a challenge because of the split footplate section over the cylinders. The late Guy Williams had a go at scratchbuilding one in More 4mm Engines, so it might be an idea to have a look at the method he used to get round the problem.

I have not tried the cylinders again, and will not till I sort out the crossheads. but the footplate castings at that end fitted together quite well. It was soldering the main bit back together again where it had broken that was awkward. Its going to be nothing like a Guy Williams model (I wish) more like a Guy Faulks

phoo looks like you've got your work cut out with this one

It was harder trying to continue someone elses build. Once I stripped it down and started again it was easier, though it might be the case that second time round it i got it right.

Turkey

Thanks for the tip, I have not built any yet but the moldings do not seem to be up the the quality of the other parts. I need to buy 4 more sprues as said for the capping, Hope Wills are able to supply.

These smoke jacks seem to be a bit small ? I will have a look at a few of my books to see if there are any designs/options.

You seem to have mastered Templot much better than I have, I have tried to understand how to make 3 ways, but it all goes over my head. I resort to splicing two plain turnouts together.

I will try and keep an eye on your blog as I find trackwork interesting

Neil its looking good, I caught the track making bug a while ago and have spent a lot of time making points fo others as well. I to find it therapeutic.

Last year we hired a cottage next to the Ffestinog railway, I came back with the bug and brought a couple of 0-16.5 locos and carriage. I have experimented with some track building.

I got some wooden coffee stirers from the golf club, stained them with wood stain. Used code 75 bull head rail with C&L chairs and stuck them to the sleepers with epoxy glue. Next try was to use C&L ( can use Peco) 7mm plastic sleepers, Peco code 82 flatbottom rail, Peco Pandrol chairs and Peco slide chairs (both 4mm scale) Others use cut down Bambi staples as spikes.

Great to see someone useing everyday items to scratch build items, takes me back to reading 1960's railway Modellers, please keep it up. Thought about adding a picture but only able to download them via the normal method