jimwal

Phospher bronze for pick-ups. Adjusted properly, they are totally reliable for shunting work!

Get the chassis up and running with motor, gears and pick-ups. Coupling rods, cylinders, slidebars connecting rods and valve gear if appropriate. During these processes it is worth checking the body fixings are holding the body parallel to the rails and not twisting the frames. Then start adding details. Less chance of damage whilst fettling any of the above.

I've got them out using a rare earth magnet and a panel pin. The panel pin (or small nail) ideally should be close to the diameter of the bearing. File the head smooth and flat and shorten the shank to just longer than the bearing depth to the ball. This should create the maximum pull on the ball.

The Hornby 4F I bought some years ago didn't have traction tyres though the 2P 4-4-0 did. Both locos share similar motors and drive set-ups. In their Airfix/Mainline days the tender drives were identical.

Thanks, your'e right. Just looked at the relevent thread for the first time!

I have a set of three which negotiate 3' radius curves with no problem. I presume all three have the problem on your curved track, as there may be damage or misplaced detail parts fouling on one or more. What is the radius of your curves, most manufacturers recommend second radius minimum, This is usually about 17.25ins (44cm). I believe the Bachmann ones may be the same models but sold under the EFE brand. The Hymek and Clayton diesel locos appeared this way.

"Vagabonds" Clive, just looked it up. I don't think most of us have have done much wandering without home or job! Tim had a career at sea so with a job, plus home. Richard H has been on world cruises since retirement but still with a home. I'm sure we're just happy to be members.😉

Good to catch up with you today at Ally Pally Clive!

Paul's photos answer your question Richard. All were built by the LMS for themselves and the LNER and were the same. The LNER built other wagons for both companies, again within the wagon type there was no difference in the vehicles for each company.

Yes, you are right, they were built many years ago, I think the whitemetal parts threw me. I've not built the lowfit version but done a version using a modified Bachmann lowfit body and Parkside chassis.

Bogie fixing on Bachmann D11

Put a spacer in both positions Richard. That keeps your options open...

The parts, sketches and acompanying notes look identical but the main text on mine is handwritten as well. I'm sure I've still got the instructions, if I can find them I'll put photos on here.

Whilst not a construction issue, I've often beefed-up the suspension J-hangers on the Parkside GWR long wheelbase vans. They always look a bit 'weak' to me.