curlypaws

I've always understood that, to get forthcoming Accurascale models early, I should order direct. That said, ordering from a retailer has been a good option when Accurascale sell out - and (as we've seen with the Mk2b coaches) it is unlikely that a retailer will be left with unsold stock even if it arrives a little later due to the demand. So I'd be pretty happy if I was a retailer compared to the situation where I got stock at the time as everyone else but then couldn't shift it!

I'm very pleased with my two Cavalex Class 56 models. 56 008 did benefit from clicking one of the bogie tower covers back into place (thank you for the guidance on how to do that). Now they both run silently. I love the packaging, particularly the use of a stand which they were screwed too. Both of them arrived without any damage to any of the beautiful detail. I also appreciate how easy it is to remove the body, should I need to add drivers. A great model, and I look forward to the class 60.

The video seemed rather unfair to Hattons, although they must also accept some blame for how they couched their reply. If you weather a locomotive, I think you really put any chance of a refund in jeopardy. However, Hattons should have offered a repair since it seems reasonably unlikely that the modifications caused the issue which the purchaser saw. I feel that it is unfortunate to see YouTubers using their large subscriber bases to get preferential treatment on such things. It damages the manufacturers by blowing up problems which could be the result of track issues, controller issues or (indeed) a small proportion of quality control issues. Accurascale have handled it as well as could be expected, but mud sticks. I don't think it benefits the hobby in the long term to use your platform to demonise a manufacturer for attempting to produce highly detailed locomotives at very reasonable prices when the issues could sometimes lie on the purchaser's side.

It is even worse news financially for Hornby if the tooling is being depreciated over a number of years (which is probably the case), given the massive loss they made this past year. If so, we can expect similar large charges over the next few years. It is difficult to see how they will repay or even maintain the debt mountain with no profits. I hope they survive, both because they make some great steam locomotives and for the sake of their staff. But it doesn't look promising. It would be interesting to know how Hornby's losses split across model railways, Airfix and Scalextric. TT:120 is still unproven. There may be competing pressures - it needs new models to maintain interest, but that means more tooling needed now. And the rather lacklustre launch with a long pause in new models appearing can't be helping it. The danger is that the initial enthusiasm and press coverage dies away and it heads in the same direction as Triang's TT.

I beg to differ on the need for ScotRail saltire 156 sets - I'd love a set.

On the "Select" page on the ECoS controller you can sort by the name (I tend to do this) in addition to the numeric address. I do find the name much more useful - though it does depend on you sticking to some kind of formatting to find things. Along with the ability to filter by steam/diesel/electric and use the different list numbers you end up with a reasonable choice of filters.

I'd definitely love to see this. The existing model is actually very nice in terms of detail, but taking it apart to put in sound is not pleasant - especially if the additional pipework has been fitted. And that speedometer cable is a pain. It would benefit from having a sound version as standard with additional pickups (or, better yet, a built in stay alive).

I guess that he has to review it as he finds it, but it does seem that he got either a damaged or poorly assembled locomotive. My G5 is in BR Black and the boiler join is pretty much invisible. It was a shame that he also did his typical rant about Bachmann's pricing throughout the review. It is a TMC Exclusive and therefore will have a more limited market. And given the many strengths he noted, I don't consider the price to be unreasonable for what is a very nice model indeed.

I love seeing the different stages of it coming together. Your finished models are stunning, so it helps show all the work that goes in to making them look so good.

Fortunately I ordered a BR Black model and it is a stunner.Thank you TMC for such a beautiful locomotive. I'm justifying it on the basis that they ran across the border onto some of the lines adjacent to the Waverley Route. But it is such a nice model I'd run it anyway!

That may well be true - and I certainly agree that the Hattons model was better in every way (wobbly axle boxes aside). However, from the commercial perspective it wasn't how Hattons saw it when they first learned of Hornby rushing out a raft of Class 66 models at low prices just prior to Hattons coming to market (as seen in the James May Hornby TV series).

I think that the difference with Hornby is that (in some cases) they have deliberately set out to duplicate or sabotage a model from another manufacturer - for instance with the Hattons Class 66, the Rapido Titfield Thunderbolt and with Cavalex over their proposed Class 91. This seems like a genuine case of two manufacturers accidentally producing the same model (similar to Sonic Models and Rapido with the BR Ferry Vans). It can be resolved amicably as @AY Mod notes.

I'm really looking forward to seeing how the tenement turns out - that's a real part of Glasgow's character and history.

I believe that (looking at my Bachmann BR 4MT 2-6-4T and the Bachmann diagrams), from the outside in the order is screw, bogie frame, coil spring and washer.

@97406 as @McC says, use the little speech bubble at the bottom right, click 'Select another topic' then 'Product Guides' then 'Locomotives'. I struggled to find this too!

The leaflet isn't much help, but I did see a post in the past (sorry, I can't remember who it was) stating that CVs 116, 117 and 118 control lighting - 7 being the default setting (CV 118 being interior brightness). I'm not sure if either CV 116 or 117 control the tail lamp, but it might be worth experimenting with them. Unlike the internal lighting, which is bright, the tail lamp is quite dim as standard.

@McC Will the Accurascale sound decoder option come with a stay-alive to help reduce the flickering of the DT directional lights? It seems that the DT loses electrical contact even on straight and level track very easily so would seem to be a good candidate for stay-alive support. I would imagine that might also impact the sound generation unless there is a stay-alive present?

I found the cab light works on F2 (when F0 is also on) with the recommended function mappings which @TomScrut provided: Forward, F0 not F5 - Front light [1], AUX3 Forward, F0, F5 - Front light [1] Reverse, F0 - Rear light [1] F0, not F1 - AUX1 [1] Stop, Forward, F2 - AUX2 [1] Reverse, F2 - AUX2 [1]

Thanks very much @Gallows Close - that fixed the headlights for me!

I've had the same issues, despite following the very helpful settings posted by @TomScrut. The lighting works for the cab, the marker lights and the destination board. But I can't get the headlights to activate. I've got a LokPilot v4 FX fitted and I'm running an ESU ECoS controller. I think I'll just need to wait for the Accurascale sound chip option...

@sanspareil I've also had issues with a Peco Code 75 Medium Point (the Bullhead rail version). It is a facing point and the TPE set has issues going over it in either direction. I changed out the original point in case it was the point which was the issue but the problem remains with the replacement. I've found it tricky to get the back-to-backs adjusted as it seems as if the wheels are quite happy to move at the point where pressure is applied but remain at a wider gauge on the rest of the wheel. So I now carefully check the gauge as I revolve each wheel set. After a lot of adjustment I've reduced the derailments (which seem to have been caused by the wheels being over gauge) but I'm still not convinced I've totally fixed the issue. At the moment the set generally runs OK with the DT leading, but I'll need to double check the reverse direction with the Class 68 in front. They are wonderful models and I really love how they look. But they've certainly been problematic to get to stay on the track - when I don't see problems with other rolling stock over the same pointwork (that's not to say that my track work is perfect, but I see very few derailments otherwise).

A very fair point!

They look very nice, but that price...

The German sourced controllers are generally very flexible. I use an ESU ECoS and it allows 30 functions - any of which can be either permanent or momentary. You can also assign an icon to each function - which gives you some chance of remembering what those 30 functions actually do! 🙂

@Sweetling Park The only advice I can offer is to get some plastic shims. Clear plastic packaging is good - you can cut it up to give you a number of pieces. You can then use it to help disengage the clips by inserting it between the body and chassis where the clips are and leave it there to stop the clips re-engaging as you work on the next set. Some people use toothpicks or plastic spatulas, but I prefer something fairly thin which doesn't distort the body. Business cards (or similar thin card) are another possibility. Just take your time as you ease the body off and watch out for any delicate parts which may get caught.