Jump to content
 

Ian Smith

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,399

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

 Content Type 

Blog Entries posted by Ian Smith

  1. Ian Smith
    A mad dash to complete the third coach in the set in readiness for the 2mm Scale Association Supermeet at Kidderminster tomorrow has seen the T47 Brake Third almost finished. Unfortunately, time has just run out so it will have to run on St Ruth as it is.
     
    This coach is another of the set from Worsley Works, and is again riding on a slightly modified David Eveleigh chassis. Once again the chassis has undergone a couple of adjustments to the brake blocks, and also this time to the position of the footboard supports (replacing with phosphor bronze wire in the more prototypical positions associated with these coaches - David's chassis are actually for his GER coaches so some compromise is necessary). The chassis etch itself has been enhanced by the addition of some rudimentary brake rigging, vacuum and gas cylinders. Because life is somewhat short, the brake pull rods have been fabricated from 2 pieces of 0.3mm brass wire soldered around a further piece perpendicular to them :

    This is then fabricated onto a small square of 0.006" nickel silver sheet together with a small turning to represent the vacuum cylinder and some V hangers from Worsley Works (not included in the 4 wheel coaches etches) :

     
    The coach body once assembled was painted as per usual with acid etch primer, a backing coat of white enamel where the cream was to go, then masked up before the chocolate was sprayed over the whole. Once dry, it was secured in my painting/lettering frame before the moudlings were picked out in black ink with a 0.1mm Rotring pen, and the mahogany window frames and door droplight brush painted in. The paint on the door handles and G scroll irons was also carefully scraped off to provide the bright polished brass :


     
    The coach to date now looks like this :

     
    And coupled to the other pair in the set :

     
    There's still a bit more to do before the coach is complete - a sealing spray of satin varnish, the roof painted, and some interior partitions and glazing added. Obviously, it (and the others in the set) will need lettering to at some point, but at least it's in a presentable state for a run up and down the branch line on St Ruth behind my saddle tank tomorrow :-)
     
    Ian
  2. Ian Smith
    A little more progress on the Worsley Works coaches, the U4 Composite and T38 Brake Third are nearing construction completion. The T38 has been built as a 6 wheel example using one of David Eveleigh's 19'0" under frame etch kits. Once again the brake hangers were modified to make them look a little more like GWR ones, and the axle boxes have again been rounded off at the top to better resemble an Oil axle box. Rudimentary brake rigging has been added to both coaches from 0.3mm brass wire.
     
    To make the rigging running longitudinally, two pieces were bent to a slightly flattened L shape, the feet of the L's were then flood soldered together trapping a further piece of 0.3mm wire centrally between them at 90 degrees (this latter being the rod between the inner and outer V hangers). Once cleaned up the 2 feet of the L's represents the connecting iron mongery that transfers a rotary motion of that iron mongery (caused by the raising lowering of the piston in the vacuum cylinder) to a push-pull motion lengthways down the coach. The vacuum cylinder, both V hangers and this brake rigging were assembled onto a scrap of 0.004" nickel sheet which in turn was added to the underside of the chassis. I have omitted the connections between the cylinder and the rod between the V hangers.
     
    Both coach chassis' have had wire added between the bottom of the W Irons, this was flattened at the ends (and in the case of the 6 wheeler in the middle too) before soldering in place. Close inspection of the photos shows that I still need to clean up this area as the flattened pieces were made over size with a view to filing back once in place, and that is what i need to do now.
     
    T38 :

    U4 :

     
    Because eventually, the 4 coaches will be running in fixed rake I am also experimenting with methods of coupling the coaches together. Initially I tried using a couple of very small magnets behind the headstocks to hold the coaches together but found it a little unsatisfactory (but thank you Mr Carlson (D869) for providing the magnets), so I have now decided to hold the coaches together with representations of vacuum brake piping. A piece of 0.45mm brass wire bent to a sort of M shape - the uprights of the vacuum pipe being the verticals of the M, and the flexible piping being the V between those uprights, the tails of the verticals each have a little hook bent into them (one will be permanently fixed to one coach (with blue tack at the moment), the other hook going behind the headstock of the adjoining coach. This version looks like it might have legs - the inter coach gap is adjustable by stretching/shrinking the V of the M, and the hook behind the headstock seems long enough to prevent accidental uncoupling (a bit more experimentation on the track work of St Ruth tonight should hopefully satisfy me that this is the way to go).
     
    Photos below show this experimental coupling :




     
    Both coaches are sitting on a little test track that has a B6 size point switchback (the tightest I will have on my layout) to trial the coupling to ensure that no buffer locking occurs and also to check that the fixed 6 wheel chassis can negotiate such geometry (I decided to build the 6 wheeled coach chassis without the sliding centre pair that David designed into his etch, my reasoning being that the whole wheelbase is only 38mm so probably shouldn't need such complexity - time will tell whether this was a sensible move but the coach seems happy enough on this test track and also when blown through the yard point work on St. Ruth.
     
    There is still a lot to do to complete the rake, but I'm really quite pleased with the first 2 coaches in the set. Hopefully I won't spoil them when I try to replicate the livery I applied to this 4mm scale coach many many years ago :

     
    Ian
  3. Ian Smith
    A little more progress with my Worsley Works 4 and 6 wheel coaches - the painting stage!!
     
    The models were given an all over coat of etch primer after the models were thoroughly scrubbed with kitchen cleaner and rinsed thoroughly (and allowed to dry of course). Each was then masked so they the cream upper body could be sprayed (Precision Paints GWR Coach Cream) with the air brush. Once that had dried for a day or two, the masking was removed, and the whole of the cream area painted with Humbrol Maskol, and the roof again masked with masking tape before applying the chocolate (Precision Paints GWR Coach Brown) again with the air brush.
     
    Then came the fun part (once the maskol had been removed) ...
     
    The mouldings of GWR coaches in my period were black, so this was carefully ruled on with Rotring Black Ink using a Rotring Pen with a 0.1mm nib, once this was dry the bolections around the windows and the door drop lights were painted with Precision Paints Mahogany, this latter was thinned a little to allow it to flow around the windows by capillary action. Once that was dry it was back to the cream on the tip of a fine sable brush to touch up any areas where either the black ink or the mahogany paint had strayed.
     
    Finally, the paint on the door handles and G scroll irons was carefully scraped away to show the shiny brass (I've only done this to the U4 so far as the painting of the T38 is incomplete).
     
    4 Wheel 1st 2nd Composite (Diagram U4) :
    (Step End)

    (Brake Tell Tale End)

     
    6 Wheel Brake Third (Diagram T38) :

     
    The pair together :

     
    There is still quite a bit to do (especially the T38), obviously the roofs still need painting, and the mouldings on the end need to be painted black too - hopefully they will be in a more completed state so that they can have a little run out on St Ruth at the weekend at the Epsom & Ewell show.
     
    Ian
  4. Ian Smith
    Slowly making a little progress on a train of 4 wheel coaches for Modbury. The first is a 1st / 2nd Composite to what became diagram U4 when the diagram books were set up. The bodies for these vehicles are from the Worsley Works range, and comprise the sides and ends, a roof and a floor which also includes the sole bars and top foot board, and finally the headstocks - these kits are described as scratch aid and do not purport to be complete kits. The full set of coaches are Brake 3rd to diagram T51, All Third to diagram S9, the U4, and another Brake 3rd to diagram T47. A little research indicates that the T51 looks more like a T38 (albeit requiring a little work to make it a better representation of that type).
     
    To go with these bodies I am using a set of etched under frames made available by 2mm Association member David Eveleigh. These chassis kits are pretty generic, probably being for GER prototypes within David's range of etched kits. As such, there are two 18'0" under frames for 4 wheel coaches, and 2 19'0" under frames for 4 or 6 wheel coaches. Unfortunately, the U4 looks like it had a 17'0" wheelbase, and the 18'0" underarme isn't long enough for the S9 body! (so some work to do there!!)
     
    I had already built one of the 18'0" chassis for my U4 before I discovered the error, so my U4 will unfortunately have a wrong wheelbase, hopefully it will not be too obvious. In building these chassis, I have removed the lower ends of the brake hangers, and also tried to round off the tops of the axle boxes to make them look less like the grease axle boxes that they look without any treatment.
     
    Last night found me in the shed (workshop) turning up some gas lamp tops, vacuum cylinders and gas cylinders for these coaches :

     
    Looking at a broadside image of a U4 indicates that the gas cylinders were about 8'0" long, and about 1'8" diameter, so that is the size I have turned those to. The vacuum cylinders I have made just simple round bars (1'10" diameter), as from the side it will be impossible to see the actual shape as the piston part will be hidden behind the sole bars anyway. Unfortunately, i made these about 1mm too long so will have to correct them before they get fitted to the under frames. An article on coach lighting by John Lewis in BRJ many years ago also included a diagram of the flat flame gas lamp and associated fittings, this diagram showed the lamp top (the bit on top of the roof) was some 4 3/4" in diameter and stood 4" high on a 5/8" ring 8" in diameter, so that is the size (roughly) that I have made these turning to.
     
    This afternoon, 4 of these lamp tops have been installed on the roof, 0.3mm wire bent up to produce the hand rails for the step end have also been fixed, and finally I have added the G scroll hand rails for the compartment doors onto the sides. These latter are marketed by N Brass, and have been soldered in place (the idea being that once I have painted the body I will scrape these back to bare brass.
     
    A couple of images of progress to date :


     
    The buffers are 2mm Association items (2-061).
     
    Ian
  5. Ian Smith

    2FS GWR Loading Gauge

    By Ian Smith,

    At last nights meeting of the Midland Area Group of the 2mm Scale Association, along with working on some of the items that were started at the previous meeting we continued to identify some more of the things that we still need to add to the layout.
     
    Obviously, like so many other layout projects there is still plenty to do. One of the things that we all feel is missing is a loading gauge in the goods yard. A quick search of t'internet for GWR loading gauges in N gauge showed that although there are a couple available that could be suitable they looked a little chunky (to my eyes at least). So this entry relates to my endeavours today to construct a (hopefully) more reasonable model in 2mm.
     
    Initially, I drilled a 0.5mm hole through the web of a couple of pieces of code 40 bullhead rail, a length of roughly 0.5mm diameter spring steel was poked through these holes and the lot soldered together to form a gallows structure. A suitable drawing of a typical GWR Loading Gauge was located and the "multi-arced shape" of an "opened up" gauge was bent up in 0.45mm brass wire. This embryonic gauge was sandwiched between two pieces of steel plate and laid on the concrete outside the workshop where I laid into it with a hammer to flatten it (in reality the hammering was rather subdued as every couple of blows the wire was checked to ensure that the flattening process was equal along the length).
     
    Once I had the hanging gauge, I twisted up some lengths of 0.044" phosphor bronze wire to simulate the chains that the gauge is suspended from, and these and the hanging gauge soldered to the spring steel gallows. The next stage was to add the gallows supports that cantilever out from the rail upright. Holes were drilled through the rail webs to accommodate the upper support which was bent up from 0.3mm brass wire, threaded through and soldered in place at either end of the spring steel cross piece. A further piece of the same brass wire was fitted below the tail of the cross piece bracing it to the rail uprights.
     
    Small loops of thin phosphor bronze wire were made to slip around the gallows to provide a support for the ropes/wires that operated the hinged sections at the ends of the hanging gauge, and were soldered in place before adding the operating ropes/wires from even thinner phosphor bronze wire (which were anchored in place through a hole in the lower half of the rail uprights, and secured with more solder).
     
    Once all was carefully cleaned up, and following a spray of white primer, and the lower portion of the upright was painted in an off-black (black that had a very small amount of white added to it to tone it down a bit), the wires/ropes were touched in with a suitable brown/grey colour, and a little dirty thinners washed over the whole to tone down the stark whiteness of the primer completed the job.
     
    Hopefully, it will be planted within the St Ruth Goods Yard soon and will be another item ticked off the list.
     


    Completed GWR Loading Gauge - standing all of 4cm tall.  
    Ian
  6. Ian Smith
    Well yesterday was the 2mm Association's Supermeet at Tutbury. What a thoroughly enjoyable day it was too, a big thanks to John Aldrick and his team for organising such a successful event.
     
    I had been invited to attend with "Modbury", so arrived on Friday evening to set everything up. Unfortunately, a couple of Gremlins had snuck into the hall and had been having fun at my expense! The turnout controlling access into the yard refused to move in either direction which was somewhat annoying as it prevented anything other than main line running. Despite a thorough investigation, involving removal, testing and re-installation of the memory wire actuator on both Friday evening and Saturday morning I was unable to resolve the issue. Luckily this type of event is more of a social affair, so I don't think anyone noticed that the only running was on the main line, and those that did were kind enough not to mention it.
     
    Over the last 3 months or so progress on Modbury has been quite significant; all of the point rodding being installed, the Up and Down Starters being constructed and installed, the back scene painted and a start made on the scenery as well as the Down Waiting Shelter and platform being added too.
     
    The photos below hopefully show progress to date, being taken on Saturday morning before the show opened. Unfortunately I did not manage to take any photos of the other layouts attending the show.
     
    Overall View of the layout

     
    View in the Up direction towards Newton Abbot

     
    View in the Down direction towards Plymouth

     
    And a couple of slightly closer images showing the Waiting Shelter and the Road Overbridge


     
    It was a thoroughly enjoyable day, although I don't think I've ever spent so long talking! It was also nice to receive so many favourable comments on the layout - thank you to all.
     
    Ian
  7. Ian Smith
    This entry is the result of my Christmas project... I still has one GWR Iron Mink kit that I purchased from the 2mm Scale Association several years ago. The kit comprises 2 identical sprues each having a floor, an end and a side.

     
    The first step was to prepare the floor, the centre was established, then the axle centres established from that datum (each was lightly scribed into the plastic), I also drilled vent holes for the fumes of the solvent to escape. The V-Iron was bent up along with the Colin Waite axle guards (I decided to use 2 fixed axle guards for this build – compensated wagons in 2mm scale seem a little pointless to me, but I’m prepared to be shot down).
    The axle guards and V-Iron were super glued to the floor making sure that the axles when fitted will be parallel to each other and perpendicular to the edge of the floor, I made use of the little holes in the axle guards through which I could see the previously scribed lines.

     
    The brake gear was super glued to a small piece of 40 thou styrene, to make fitting to the floor easier, and when fitting the end of my tapered broach was used to align the brake gear to the V-Iron :

     
    The kit wagon sides were prepared by filing off the hinges on each of the doors, then the centre 3 planks of each door were carefully filed back to a depth of about 20 thou. The top and bottom rails of each door were then added with small strips of 20 thou styrene, one edge of the strip was slightly bevelled (this may not be visible in the photos). Doing this allows retention of the door handle and locking mechanism. I also drilled out the horse hook holes in the solebar as per the prototype at this stage too.
    (The body is shown below assembled around one of the floors, and with the cast white metal buffers (again from the 2mm Scale Association – although now replaced by brass turnings)

     
    The next stage was to fit the floor unit into the wagon – had I not built up the body previously this could be done now around the floor. My reasoning behind making up the body and chassis as separate units was to aid getting the buffer height correct, as the floor unit can be slid up and down within the body until the correct height is achieved, then secured with solvent (obviously for this to be possible, the floor unit needs to be a tight interference fit within the body cavity :

     
    The next phase of the operation was to prepare some new hinges for the doors (12 will be required, 3 on each door), a slim length of 5 thou styrene was taped to a piece of tufnol (although anything that would allow separation later would do), with a length of 10 thou plastic rod positioned down it’s centre (once dried, I allowed it to set overnight), individual hinges could be cut from the length (I happened to have some 10 thou rod in my box, although if necessary some can be made by gently warming a piece of sprue a few centimetres above a candle flame to soften it, then gently draw apart to create a thin filament of plastic) :

     
    Once the hinges had dried, the cast axle guards were added (again these are old 2mm Scale Association components that have now been replaced – by etchings I think)

     
    The next stage was to fit the roof – I decided to use 10 thou styrene sheet for this (35mm x 17mm), which was given a bit of a curve by rolling over it on the back of a mouse mat with the round handle of an x-acto knife, and the corners rounded off on a piece of fine grade emery paper. Because this material is quite delicate, I decided to fit a central spine to the inside of the wagon for additional support. Once the roof had been fitted and allowed to dry off, the roof joining strips were added with narrow strips of 5 thou styrene :

     
    After everything had dried, the roof strips were trimmed to length and the brake handle added and soldered to the L shaped 0.2 mm phosphor bronze wire that I used to represent the vertical rod that substituted for an internal V-Iron on the prototype. The completed wagon can be seen below :

  8. Ian Smith
    I am going to try to move my 2mm ramblings from my original Trefallion blog (which is my P4 layout) to this new blog, firstly with my entry on a GWR 4 Plank Open wagon :
     
    2mm Scale GWR O5 4 Plank Open
     
    Sunday afternoon, Wifey out, what to do?
     
    Well having located some of my old 2mm scale bits and bobs I decided to have a crack at putting together the 9'0" rigid underframe chassis that I had in my box of bits. The chassis had been purchased to go under a 4 plank open wagon body that I had built (the part number on the bag is S5-065, the etch has Mike Bryant 1985 etched on it so I have no idea if it is still available from the 2mm Association). The etch itself came with no instructions so I had to make my own up as I went along.
     
    First I bent up the floor and solebars, and then soldered in the top hat bearings. A quick check of the wheelsets showed that the pin-point axle was a good 1mm short! After a bit of fettling I moved the top hats in until the wheelsets stopped falling out, and just as importantly the whole chassis sat level. Next I decided to fit the one-side Morton brakes, checking that the brake shoes lined up fairly well with the wheels (a little bend up bit helped with the alignment), to also assist with the alignment I used a length of wire to line up the V irons. The next items to be attached were the cosmetic solebars, which were tinned (along with the functional solebars that were formed when the chassis was bent up), and simply sweated on.
     
    The next item I decided to fit was the brake handle, this is in the form of an L shape with a couple of small tails where the long and short "arms" come together. Both "arms" were overly long, so I decided to double up the shorter one so that the bent up tail was on the inside (when eventually attached to the solebar), this was to allow the handle to stand a little further off the solebar than would have occurred had I not done it - the aim was to give a little more room for the spring and axlebox casting as this would lie behind the handle. Before fitting the handle, I bent the long arm of the L so that there was a shallow angle (the L was now at about 75-80 degrees) such that the long arm could connect with the tip of the V iron, and the double thickness short arm hang down vertically. Once happy I soldered it in place on the solebar, and carefully bent the joggle in the arm that on the prototype allowed the handle to navigate over the spring and axlebox. The long arm was then soldered to the bottom of the V iron, and carefully trimmed to length.
     
    The next items to be fitted were the headstocks, I bent up the little tabs and when tried in place thought that they just didn't fit properly. In a moment of brilliance on my part I decided to turn the headstocks full circle so that the tabs were outside the chassis (and when it was slid up to the headstocks they were at the right height). I tack soldered the middle of the headstock to the chassis underside, and once happy with the fit completed the join. After fitting the little tabs were simply snapped off and the resultant pips sanded smooth. That completed all of the solderwork.
     
    Next I super-glued the cast white metal GWR axleboxes that I am lucky enough to have in my 2mm bits box, and finally the cast white metal plain buffers were super-glued into the holes in headstocks (after re-drilling to clear the solder that now filled them )
     
    Lastly, the plasticard body that I built many years ago was fitted, this was done by having the body upside down on the bench, the chassis was aligned and super-glue dribbled into the holes in the etched chassis where the fold-ups for the brakes were.
     
    Here are a couple of photos of the finished wagon (not quite complete as I still have to fit some L section end stanchion ironwork, and obviously paint and letter the little fellow).
     

     
     
    DavidLong
    Dec 11 2011 19:16
    Very nice, Ian. The Mike Bryant chassis use wheels on 13mm axles hence your little problem. If you have any more of the MB chassis it may be worth buying some appropriate wheels from the Association shop.
     
    richbrummitt
    Dec 11 2011 19:23
    Very nice. Does it also need a sheet rail too?
     
    The chassis, axlebox/spring castings, and buffers have been replaced with updated or revised components. On the plus side the body is available as a plastic kit now!
     
    Ian Smith
    Dec 11 2011 19:42
    I'm not sure that the O5 wagons had sheet rails, I'll have to check some of my library :-) I know some of the 5 plankers did. I was not going to fit one, but I am going to fill it with a load of some sort (which is why I didn't scribe the plank detail on the inside of the wagon).
     
    Hopefully in the new year I'll re-join the 2mm Scale Association, I have the bug back for this scale again. I can't believe how things have moved on since I last modelled in the smaller scale (I had a small N Gauge layout many years ago (early '80s), and always intended building a 2mm Finescale one - hence the Iron Minks and this O5 wagon - but my love is for small GWR engines, and motors in the late '80s early 90's were generally too big (unless you made your own). Modern technology seems to really make the scale very viable (even if my eye-sight doesn't) ;-)
     
     
    Gingerbread
    Dec 11 2011 19:51
    Another very nice looking wagon.
     
    Minor point of pedantry here. According to Atkins (or to give it the full title, A History of GWR Goods Wagons, by Atkins, Beard, Hyde and Tourret), O5 should have DC I brakegear, and applies to about 200 wagons built in 1902. Something over 20,000 wagons of similar four-plank design, but with conventional single-sided brake gear had been built earlier, but were not given a diagram number until in 1927-30 the remaining 18,000+ were refitted with either-side brakes and given diagram number O21. So I think your wagon as built is an undiagrammed four plank, which would have become O21 at some future date.
     
    How do I know all this? Because earlier today I started to write a future article for my blog, covering the various options for making GWR opens in 2mm. One nice feature of the four-plank wagon in plastic kit form is that it's easy to file it down by a plank and create a three-plank version (no diagonal bracing to worry about).
     
    Some carried sheet rails, but I think that most four-plankers didn't - and in later years I think they were removed, as the GWR disliked putting wagons into the Common User Pool with sheet rails, and receiving wagons back without them.
     
    David
     
     
     
    Ian Smith
    Dec 11 2011 20:52
    David,
     
    Thanks for the info - I had forgotton most of that. I have both volumes of A History of GWR Goods Wagons, and the Russell books that were published by OPC. If I remember correctly, when I built the body (over 15 years ago) it was based on a photo in one of the Russell books (and if I'm honest I assumed that being a 4 planker that I had started building an O5). I will have to retreive the various volumes from the loft and start reading again.
     
    The reason I built it in the first place was because I didn't fancy trying to make DC I brake gear in 2mm scale :-). I now see that the Association shop has far more on offer than it did all those years ago, including chassis that have the Dean Churchward brake gear.
     
    One of the first things I need to build if I return to 2mm is a loco. I have wheels for a Dean Goods, 45xx and an 0-4-2/2-4-0. Looking at some of the motors available from Nigel Lawton, I think my first project will be a Metro tank or a 517 (complete with shiney brass dome and safety valve) :-)
     
    Thanks very much for the comments though.
     
    Ian
     
     
    Gingerbread
    Dec 11 2011 21:29
    Ian
     
    DC brake gear is still difficult, but I'm not sure it's any worse than bending the long brake lever to the right shape.
     
    Locomotive chassis kits suitable for GWR are under development as follows:
    0-6-0 (principally for Farish Pannier) - etched chassis expected to be available early next year from 2mm Association
    0-6-0 (principally for Farish Pannier) - brass block chassis under development by Alan Smith
    0-4-2 (principally for Dapol 14xx, but should also serve for a '517) - etched chassis expected to be available early next year from 2mm Association
    0-6-0 tender (principally for Peco Collet goods, but probably also suitable for Dean goods) - etched chassis expected to be available early next year from 2mm Association
    Ixion Manor conversion kit - brass block chassis under development by Wealden Group/Alan Smith, expected to be available next year
    2-6-2 (principally for Dapol 45xx) - etched chassis available now from David Eveleigh
     
    With the exception of the David Eveleigh 2-6-2 kit, they are intended to be at the "easy" end of the difficulty scale.
     
    I am in a similar situation - I have the 2-6-2 chassis kit, but it's not really suitable for my location/era (and I would like to try something easier first), and am looking forward to the various chassis to allow me to build 0-6-0 saddle tanks (with a Dean Sidings body available), '517 0-4-2 tank (again Dean Sidings body available) and 0-6-0 Dean goods (with NBrass body kit promised "sometime soon").
     
    David
     
     
    Ian Smith
    Dec 11 2011 21:40
    My appetite is well and truly whetted now!!!
     
    I was thinking of scratchbuilding loco's but if there are kits out there (or on their way) for chassis and or bodies so much the better. I will have to take a photo of the 45xx chassis that I have that is part built (phosphor bronze, tufnol spacers, and cylinders that I carved from a lump of tufnol).
     
    Ian
     
     
    Donw
    Dec 11 2011 23:23
    Nice little wagon even if it isn't an O5 the GWR seemed to have quite a lot of early 4 plankers with one sided brake gear. I have kits to build for those locos in 0 I was planning to do some SR in 2mm but you keep tempting me.
    Don
     
     
    bcnPete
    Yesterday, 09:07
    Nice work Ian...glad to see you have been bitten by the 2mmFS bug again!
     
     
    Ian Smith
    Today, 18:41
    I managed to get up in the loft last night to find the History of GWR Goods Wagons (Vols 1 & 2) and also Russell's Great Western Wagons Appendix. The latter has the photograph of the wagon that I based my model on - (no. 632), according to the caption it is an O5, however I checked in Atkins, and David is quite correct the O5 wagons only had DC brakes (not that I doubted him), and 632 is no where near the range of numbers given to the O5's.
     
    So what I have built is one of the many 4 plank wagons owned by the GWR that were built in their 1000's in the 19th Century.
     
    My only real problem is how to model the cast number plates that were fitted to this wagon (the photograph shows it in that condition, and was taken at Swindon in a newly painted condition in 1894) and my modelling period is circa 1905 so the assumption is that the wagon would probably still be carrying the plates then - I had thought of little pieces of styrene with the "G.W.R" and "632" painted on, anyone else any ideas?
    Ian
     
     
    Gingerbread
    Today, 19:19
     
    I think that most of the undiagrammed four-plank wagons would have their numbers painted on rather than cast on - from what I recall, cast numbers were used for a couple of years either side of 1900.
     
    However, I was actually proposing to use cast plates to my advantage, by printing the numbers onto thick paper (to be pedantic, printing the black background of the cast plate onto white paper), then affixing the paper to the wagon sides. I hope this will be easier than applying transfers for white numbering/lettering on grey/red sides (finding transfers small enough or matching background colour for the do-it-yourself version). I certainly don't think my painting skills are adequate for letters about 0.8mm in height
     
    David
     
     
    Ian Smith
    Today, 20:11
     
     
    Gingerbread, on 13 December 2011 - 19:19 , said:
     
    I think that most of the undiagrammed four-plank wagons would have their numbers painted on rather than cast on - from what I recall, cast numbers were used for a couple of years either side of 1900. However, I was actually proposing to use cast plates to my advantage, by printing the numbers onto thick paper (to be pedantic, printing the black background of the cast plate onto white paper), then affixing the paper to the wagon sides. I hope this will be easier than applying transfers for white numbering/lettering on grey/red sides (finding transfers small enough or matching background colour for the do-it-yourself version). I certainly don't think my painting skills are adequate for letters about 0.8mm in height David
     
    Rather stupidly I hadn't thought of using the tool of my trade to do the plates!! I'll have to have a root around to see if I can find a suitable font.
     
    From what I remember of Great Western Way published by HMRS, the background colour of the plates was always grey (although they don't have the period of red wagons quite right, so that may not be correct either - although I suspect evidence came to light after the book was published).
     
    Either way, when complete I intend to paint this as a red wagon with cast plates (just got to decide on the right colour red - I picked up a tinlet of Humbrol No 132 (satin) from the local model shop to try as I believe the wagons were painted in an orangey-red colour - I liked Mikkel's colouring of a similar wagon in 4mm - but didn't want to try to mix my own shade as I doubt my ability to match a made up colour repeatedly.
     
    Ian
  9. Ian Smith
    My 4 plank open has now been painted, the colour I originally bought was just too orangey (Humbrol Satin 132) despite the colour on the tin lid, so a second coat was applied this time adding Humbrol Matt 70 to it in a ratio of about 3 x132 to 1 x 70 to obtain the "warm", "light", "dark" red that GWR wagons are reported to have been painted in the later years of the 19th Century.
     
    Whilst I had the paint pots out I also applied a little weathering to the 2 Iron Mink that I had already completed, for this a little Precision Paints Track Colour was dry brushed around the lower sides and ends and the solebars, springs, axleboxes, etc. This weathering was built up in a couple of applications to hopefully give a subtle effect.
     
    Photos of the 3 wagons can be seen below. The 4 plank open I intend to fit with the cast plates (rather than painted lettering) that were fitted to the example I have copied. I did try printing the "G.W.R" and "632" on a dark grey background on matt photo paper on the inkjet printer - not completely satisfied with the result as the lettering is only about 3pt font high and is pretty well invisible. I will now try scratching the lettering onto a piece of white styrene sheet that has been painted grey to see if that is anymore to my liking (so as yet the red wagon shows no sign of company ownership).



     
    Ian
  10. Ian Smith

    2mm Scale Iron Minks

    By Ian Smith,

    Another entry from my Trefallion P4 blog moved to my 2mm Scale blog...
    2mm Scale Iron Minks
     
    07 December 2011
    Posted by Ian Smith
     
     
    After a bit of a ferret about in the loft, I found what I was looking for...
     
    Many years ago I had a spell of modelling in 2mm Scale, the only wagons that were ever completed were a pair of GWR Iron Mink built from kits purchased from the 2mm Scale Association. The kit as produced was for a later type where the original iron doors were replaced with wooden ones - not what I wanted at all, so a little work with a square file and a few small pieces of styrene sheet later I had sides that resembled the look that I wanted, Iron Mink in their orignal form.
     
    Below are some pics of the pair on a small 18" length of track that I constructed using the original copper clad sleepers and nickel silver strip that the society sold in rolls for track construction - I look now at the Easitrack components just to remind myself how things have moved on



     
    When I retire I must build myself a small 2mm scale layout (I seem to have plenty of bits and bobs - loco, coach and wagon wheels, motors, even an etch of a rake of 5 GWR 4 wheel coaches).
     
    Roll on retirement
     
    ipb.templates['comment_moderation'] = new Template("
    With #{count} checked comments: ApproveUn-approveDelete "); ipb.templates['comment_delete'] = new Template("
    Confirm Delete
    <p class='ipsPad ipsForm_center desc'>Are you sure you want to delete this comment?
     
    ");<p class="ipsComment_wrap" id="comment_wrap">
     
     
    -missy-
    Dec 07 2011 21:37
     
    Hello Ian.
     
    Thank you for posting those pctures. I have (somewhere!) some of the N Gauge mink wagons awaiting chassis so I now know they can be done. What bits from the 2mm SA did you use?
     
    There is nothing wrong with soldered track and PCB sleepers at all. Easitrack does give a far better appearance but in my opinion you cant beat soldered track and pointwork for robustness as well as the ability to adjust it easily. After all Highclere has been built using exactly the same technique!
     
    Missy
     
     
    Ian Smith
    Dec 07 2011 22:20
     
    Julia,
     
    The parts that I used in the construction of the Iron Mink were :
    the plastic body kits themselves,
    a small piece of 0.020" stryene for the roof,
    Colin Waite compensated W irons and brass bearings,
    9'0" Standard Morton Brake Gear (etch of 9'0" and 10'0" wheelbase),
    8 spoked wheels,
    H/10 Cast white metal plain buffers,
    H/7 Cast white metal GWR axleboxes
     
    I have no idea whether these items are still available (I was last a member of the 2mm SA in 1995!) - the H numbers are from the packets that some identical parts are in, whether those items have new numbers now I do not know.
     
    Hope this helps. Your model of Highclere and other great 2mm scale models are what inspired me to search the attic for these wagons (I knew they were up there in 35mm film canisters somewhere)
     
     
     
     
    2mm Andy
    Dec 07 2011 22:36
     
    Hi Ian,
     
    Those look rather nice. I started a similar conversion (removing the timber doors and fitting to the Colin Waite 2mm chassis) a while ago. Based on the fantastic results you've acheived, I think I might dig them out of my gloat box.
     
    As far as I know, most of the bits you listed aren't available any more (apart from the body kit), but there are newer alternatives available from the 2mm Scale Assoc shops.
     
    Andy
     
     
     
     
    Gingerbread
    Dec 07 2011 23:18
     
    I agree - they look good.
     
    It should be rather easier to make them now (if the relevant parts are in stock again) - when I bought some about a year ago, I think the kits came with choice of doors, and choice of ends, and roofs included, so no need to scratchbuild the iron doors (though I have mislaid some of the roofs, so will substitute some of the Association etched ones).
     
    Chassis components are completely different now, as Andy says, with the probable exception of the wheels. Those couplings do look rather familiar though.
     
    David
     
     
     
     
    Donw
    Dec 07 2011 23:29
    I remember all those bits and still have some. I assume the coaches are from Stuart Hines etches. I have a set unmade myself. I spoke to Stuart at the AGM he said he didn't know what had happens to the masters for the etches.
    Don
     
     
     
     
    richbrummitt
    Dec 08 2011 13:15
    David, The choice of doors and the roof suggest that you are looking at the NGS society kit, not the 2mm SA one? The 2mm SA kit has one piece sides with the solebar included. The NGS one does not have the solebar on.
     
     
     
     
    richbrummitt
    Dec 08 2011 13:16
    Oh, and if anyone would like to let their Stuart Hine 4 wheel coaches go to a new home please send me a pm.
     
     
     
     
    Gingerbread
    Dec 08 2011 15:51
     
    richbrummitt, on 08 December 2011 - 13:15 , said:
     
    David, The choice of doors and the roof suggest that you are looking at the NGS society kit, not the 2mm SA one? The 2mm SA kit has one piece sides with the solebar included. The NGS one does not have the solebar on.
    Richard
    Yes, I was referring to the N Gauge Society kit, bought through the 2mm Association. I hadn't realised that the kit Ian referred to as bought from the 2mm Association was totally different.
    Nevertheless, I think the point I was trying to make still stands - the problem with absence of "early" doors doesn't apply with the kits currently available from the 2mm Association - though I doubt there are many prospective 2mm early Iron Mink builders, apart from the two of us.
     
    David
     
     
     
     
    richbrummitt
    Dec 08 2011 18:22
    On the website 2-522 is showing TOS. Maybe they have/are supplying the NGS kit instead?
     
    The 2mm SA kit did (does?) comprise two sprues each with one side featuring a planked door, complete with solebar; an end with a single ventilator and headstock; and a floor. The NGS sprue comprises a side without solebar with an aperture for the door; an end with a single ventilator and headstock; an end without a ventilator plus headstock; floor; roof; flat doors (presumably for a CONE); iron doors (as built).
     
    The latter clearly has more choice, but no option for the planked doors of the former. In my opinion the former is a nicer moulding because the ironwork on the side wraps under the body and onto the solebar. I had planned to see if the doors were a straight swap from the NGS kit into the 2mm SA one when I got around to making them up and I'm sure I had more than I found when looking upstairs just now.
     
     
     
     
     
    Ian Smith
    Dec 08 2011 18:35
     
    Guys and Girl,
     
    Many thanks for your kind words.
     

    Donw, on 07 December 2011 - 23:29 , said:
    I remember all those bits and still have some. I assume the coaches are from Stuart Hines etches. I have a set unmade myself. I spoke to Stuart at the AGM he said he didn't know what had happens to the masters for the etches. Don  
    Don,
    The etch for the 4 wheel coaches was Stuart Hine's. I think the artwork was originally for 3mm scale. According to the instructions, a note from Stuart implies that the 5 coaches on the etch cost me the princely sum of £10-£12 :-)
     

    Gingerbread, on 07 December 2011 - 23:18 , said:
    I agree - they look good. It should be rather easier to make them now (if the relevant parts are in stock again) - when I bought some about a year ago, I think the kits came with choice of doors, and choice of ends, and roofs included, so no need to scratchbuild the iron doors (though I have mislaid some of the roofs, so will substitute some of the Association etched ones). Chassis components are completely different now, as Andy says, with the probable exception of the wheels. Those couplings do look rather familiar though. David The couplings were a recent purchase (for me - probably 1994), I only made up 2 of them one for each wagon so that I could test their action and the gap between the wagons - I also have a set of what I believe are MBM couplings, but preferred the DG ones.
     
    I also found a part scratchbuilt O5 4 plank open wagon that I was going to fit to a rigid 9'0" underframe - I think this will be my next project, as the body is complete and just needs the chassis completing. When it's finished I'll pop a photo of it here too.
     
    Ian
  11. Ian Smith
    Unfortunately, due to a variety of reasons I have not ordered the previously drawn models from Shapeways yet. One of the reasons for this is that I have decided that I don't need any more of the Outside Framed Vans that I were originally forming part of that order. I have however almost finished 2 of the Vans, attempting to complete them in GWR Red Livery with the 5" G.W.R lettering.
     
    The one with the roughly printed side I have decided to finish off as a grounded body, the images below hopefully will allow the reader to discern the variable results of the 3D Printing process between the 2 sides of this van (the roof of this van is 0.010" plasticard) :
     
    Good Side :

     
    Bad Side :

     
    The other van that is almost complete now (apart from the less than 1mm high lettering), and can be seen in the image below. Because I had initially drawn up the van as a body only, I have constructed the solebars and headstocks from plasticard strips (with rod welded on to give the impression of the bulb section solebars). The Buffers and Springs/Axleboxes are the last of my stock of Cast White Metal items that the 2mm Association made available years ago, and the W Irons and brake gear are from Colin Waite etches from the same source. The roof is 0.006" nickel silver sheet gently rolled into an arced profile on the mouse mat.

     
    Because I now have all of the Oustide Framed Goods Vans that I think I'll need, I decided that I would make up the rest of my ultimate order with Shapeways with some of the Cattle Wagons that I will eventually need. To this end I have now drawn up one of the Large (18'6" over headstocks, 11'0" wheel base) W1 / W5 diagram wagons, and also one of the Small (13'9" over headstocks, 8'6" wheel base) W3 diagram wagons. Google Sketch-Up screen shots of these can be seen below :
     
    W1/W5 Cattle Wagon :

     
    W3 Cattle Wagon :


     
    The image from below illustrates the recesses I have drawn into all of the models to help aligh the 2mmSA RCH W Irons (part no. 2-312), and also a similar recess for the V hanger.
     
    Ian
  12. Ian Smith
    In my 2mm scale stock box I now have almost 10 wagons. I had decided at an early stage to make use of the DG couplings to allow hands free shunting (my P4 stock makes use of 3-Link and screw couplings to hold everything together, being much heavier I don't tend to lift everything off the rails (too often) when shunting), however what I intend to do in 2mmFS is to have my models permanently joined in groups of 2 or 3 wagons with DG couplings at the outer ends of the groups.
     
    To achieve this I need some other (more realistic) joining method, and to this end I have decided to knock up some 3-Link couplings. Because the models are to be permanently connected into small groups, I decided not to bother with a hook as such, effectively making 5 link couplings instead, the outer pair of "links" actually being a loop-on-a-stick which can be secured into the headstock of the wagon.
     
    Clearly, to make links this small and all the same size I decided to make a little jig first. This is simply a piece of 1.53mm square brass bar the end of which I have filed a flat on to leave an end that is 0.7mm thick (by 1.5mm wide) and about 4mm long. The original idea was to drill a hole of 0.3mm dia into the resulting step on the end of the bar to take the tail of some 0.3mm brass wire that the links will be made from, unfortunately I snapped my last drill in the process! The jig was completed by filing the corners off the 0.7mm,1.5mm spigot on the end of the bar so that the wire could be wrapped around snuggly and have nice rounded ends on the resultant coil.
     
    In the end I trapped the wire and jig in the end of my hand vice and wrapped the wire around until I had gone around about 6 times, the result is a little coil of links that were separated from each other whilst still on the jig with a knife down the long side of the coils. When I slid them off the end of the jig I managed to find enough to make a little chain of 3 - the others are embedded in the dining room carpet somewhere!!
     
    The photo below shows the jig and the chain of links with the end loops formed by wrapping a single coil around a 0.75mm drill shank. A 5 minute dip in Carr's Acidip (and a rinse) before a couple of minutes in Carr's Metal Black (for Brass) results in the finished article shown in the final photo.


     
    I just need to obtain some more 0.3mm drills so that I can attach the little devil between a pair of wagons now (I just need to put it somewhere safe until I do!!) I should add that I have stretched the links between a pair of wagons and am happy that there will be a gap between the wagon buffers to allow them to negotiate curves (obviously with the end loops having a fixing tail I can adjust the distance quite easily anyway).
     
    Ian
  13. Ian Smith
    The results of my labours with Google SketchUp have finally arrived from Shapeways, detailed in previous blog entries.
     
    This time I have received a complete GWR Catte Train comprising 2 x Large W1/5 Cattle Wagons, 1 x Medium W2 (Outside Framed) Cattle Wagon, 3 x Small W3 Cattle Wagons (this was a bit of a cock up copying and pasting as there should have been 2 of each! ), and to tail them off an AA16 Outside Framed Brake Van. Each of these were drawn in SketchUp in separate files, and a new file built containing all of them built by simply copying the relevant wagon from it's own file and pasting it in the combined file, the resulting combined file was saved as an STL file, and NetFabb used to correct any errors using the default fix.
     
    In addition to the wagons, I had also incorporated some sprues of springs and axleboxes for both the Cattle Wagons and the Brake Van. These were quite fine, and if I'm honest I was unsure whether they would work - they did, although all bar 2 of them had become detached from the sprues in the Shapeways cleaning process or in transit. The axleboxes are a mixture of Grease and Oil, and for the Brake Van were drawn as 4'6" long with J hangers, and for the others 3'6" long.
     
    Below are a series of photo's that show the complete order (which cost £37.50 incl post - which I think was pretty good for 7 wagons!)
     
    Full Contents of order :

     
    Large W1 Cattle Wagon :

     

     

     
    Last one illustrating the recesses I've drawn into the model to facilitate the use of the 2mm Scale Association's RCH W-Irons (part 2-312) :

     
    W2 Outside Framed Medium Cattle Wagon :

     

     
    W3 Small Cattle Wagon :

     
    AA16 Outside Framed Brake Van :
    This was drawn complete with the bench/box ad floor at the verandah end, and incorporated the brake standard. Unfortunately, the handle of the brake did not survive the journey so will have to be replaced with wire.

     

     

     
    All of the wagons were drawn with holes for the buffer shanks, and a central slot to accomodate the draw hook. Additional holes were drawn in te solebars for the horse hooks (except on the W2 which has a wooden solebar, the plating detail on which isn't really visible in the photos but is there). The Brake Van has 0.3mm holes in the solebar and body side to facilitate fitting of footboards and handrails, which have come out but will need to be opened up as they look significantly smaller than the 0.3mm I had drawn them at - perhaps they still have supporting wax in them.
     
    That's all for now - I don't think I'm going to get too bored over the next few weeks now!
     
    Ian
  14. Ian Smith
    Following the receipt from Shapeways of a GWR Cattle train that I had drawn up (http://www.rmweb.co....e-train-in-fud/), I have been working on two of the set, a W1 Large Cattle Wagon, and a W2 Medium (Outside Framed) Cattle Wagon.
     
    The parts received from Shapeways were cleaned of the waxy support residue using an old toothbrush and washing up liquid. Annoyingly on a couple of the wagons (not the ones in this article) I was a little over-zealous and damaged the T section strapping on the wagon ends (at least I assume it was me and not just a bad print). So for future reference, care is needed while cleaning
     
    Once cleaned, the 2mm Scale Association RCH W Irons (part 2-312) were folded up and soldered, then secured with super glue into the recesses that I'd had the foresight to draw into the rear of the solebars (a similar recess assisted the location and fixing of the V hanger). The brake gear was from an old 11'0" wheel base underframe etch that is unfortunately no longer available (I guess it has been superceeded by a better version). The brake handles are from another old etch of Colin Waite brake gear, the last few limited supplies of which are now being sold off by the 2mm Scale Association Shop 2.
     
    The W1 wagons were actually 11'6" wheelbase, but this slight discrepancy doesn't really show on the finished wagon (the wheel spacing is to the correct 11'6" it's just the brake gear that is 11'0").
     
    The door bangers are simply strips of 0.010" nickel silver from a bit of an old etch, that were bent to shape with a little "tail" that was inserted into a small hole in the top part of the solebars. These were secured with more super glue applied from the inside of the solebars. The buffers are again 2mm Scale Association items (part 2-072), and are a snug fit in the pre-drawn holes in the headstocks.
     
    The horizontal bars in the openings at the top of the sides are 0.3mm brass wire cut to length and super glued to the back of the door framing - The W2 has a recess drawn in to facilitate this fixing, but rather stupidly I forgot to add this aid when I drew the W1 (although I have now rectified this in the updated drawing uploaded on Shapeways.
     
    The photo below hopefully shows the W1 (and W2) underframes, and the method employed in the construction of the underframes.

     
    The roof was made from 0.010" plasticard, gently rolled to shape with a marker pen on a mouse mat. The strengthening strapping being 0.005" plasticard strip. The W2 does not have the strengthening strapping.

     
    The first attempt at painting the W1 had to be stripped off with white spirit as despite being a nice new tin of MATT Humbrol dark grey, it insisted on drying GLOSSY !!!!
     
    One surprising benefit of the stripping process was to leave a finish that rather nicely shows off the 3D Print though :

     
    A complete re-paint has left the following little wagon that I'm really rather pleased with, it still needs some transfers adding (large 25" GW) and of course the lime wash that was prevalent in my chosen modelling period (c.1905/6). I need to obtain some new transfers because the old Woodhead that I have (I think) are well past their best, I will probably try Fox Transfers, and hope that they have the word "LARGE" on there 2mm GWR sheet.

     
    Ian
  15. Ian Smith
    Following a thoroughly enjoyable day out at the RM Web members day on Saturday - many thanks especially to Julia (Missy) for taking time out to talk to me.
     
    Anyway, I came away inspired and spurred on to get some more modelling done. Luckily, the TV content on Saturday evening wasn't my cup of tea (but was very fortunately wifey's), so out came sheets of plasticard, scalpel, and blown up drawing of a 14' 6" over headstocks dumb buffered open coal wagon (courtesy of a book on the Gloucester Carriage and Wagon Works).
     
     
    Taking measurements from the drawing, the planking for the sides and ends for 2 wagons were "Skrawked" out on a 0.020" sheet of plasticard (both inside and outside), a floor was produced from the same source, and the drop doors similarly scribed. Finally the sets of components were welded together to form the basic wagon bodies and left overnight to harden thoroughly (a piece of plasticard slightly wider than the internal width was inserted between the sides to hopefully prevent them bowing inwards).
     
    Sunday afternoon saw wifey out visiting (since I was out on Saturday ), so between watching the British GP, I begain forming the corner strapping plates for the 2 wagons from a 2mm wide strip of 0.005" plasticard. The bolt detail being embossed into the strip with a pin mounted in a pin vice, using a scrap piece of side and end planking material to get the bolt positions in the right places and in the right pattern (2 bolt heads per plank offset diagonally). The plates were carefully fitted to the sides and ends again using solvent.
     
    The narrower plates around the drop doors were produced in the same fashion as the corner plates and fitted to the sides of the wagons (extra care has to be exercised when producing the bolt heads on this very narrow material as it will easily deform into a banana shape laterally - the indentations will always cause it to deform longtitudinally, which can easily be straightened - the lateral deformity is much more difficult to rectify and it is probably best to discard and start again).
     
    Hinges for the drop doors were formed by welding 0.010" rod onto small pieces of 0.005" which were subsequently trimmed down to size before fitting in place on the bottom rail of the sides (below the bottom plank). The door strapping was formed in the same manner as the narrow plates above and carefully fitted to the door and over the previously fixed hinge - this was generally a 2 stage approach, fitting the strap to the door down to the hinge, and when dry using solvent to soften the plastic strip strap to form it over the hinge and when dry trimming to length.
     
    The internal strapping was simply strips of 0.005" plasticard without the bolt-head / nut detail (life is just too short ).
     
    Once all of this was dry - one advantage of building 2 identical wagons at the same time is that one can be drying whilst working on the other one - a strip of 0.040" was fitted as a headstock, and the vertical end stanchions formed and fitted from a thinned down 0.040" x 0.040" strip of plastic (the thinning down was done simply by scraping the scalpel blade along the length to remove a really thin shaving until I was happy with the dimensions - the real wagon's end stanchions were about 4.5" square so 0.030" would have been better if I had some ).
     
    The dumb buffers themselves were formed by welding 2 strips of 0.040" together, and after drying thinned (to square them up) as above before cutting into lengths a little more than needed so that there was sufficient excess length to allow them to be trued square on the ends. Once welded to the headstocks and thorughly dry they were carefully sanded to length, and the slight chamfer sanded on their ends.
     
     

     

     
    I now have to wait for the 8' 6" underframes and Split Spoke wheels to come from the 2mm Scale Association shop before I can complete them (although the underframes will need shortening to suit the already fitted (over thick) headstocks, so I may well end up just using the Association Axleguards and make the solebars myself.)
     
    I intend finishing one loaded and the other empty, probably in a ficticious livery to suit a coal merchant local to my imaginary station (when I get around to building a layout ).
     
    Ian
  16. Ian Smith
    Having seen some of the great models that can be produced from 3D Printing, I have begun (for the second time) to produce the 3D model for a GWR Outside Framed Goods Van. These early vans were 15'6" long with a total body height of only 6'8". The earliest ones had wooden underframes, and they had a long life some ending up as Sand Vans.
     
    I am using Google Sketch-Up to do the modelling, and so far have put together the main body, and outside frames. I am now in the process of adding the iron-work strapping plates. Hopefully the screen shot below will show progress to date.
     

     
    All being well once complete I will get one printed up at Shapeways.
     
    Ian
  17. Ian Smith
    After the reasonable success of the GWR Outside Framed Van that I received from Shapeways, I am now ready to place another order. The images below (from the Shapeways site) show all of the components that I have put up there. What I intend to do now is compile a single .STL file containing all of the various wagons that I want in a single file to minimise the FUD surcharge of 5 Euros per file.
     

    GWR Outside Framed Van with Steel Solebars
     

    GWR Outside Framed Van with Wooden Solebars
     

    GWR Outside Framed Cattle Wagon (diag W2) with Steel Solebars
     

    GWR Outside Framed Cattle Wagon (diag W2) with Wooden Solebars
     

    GWR Outside Framed Brake Van (diag AA16)
     

    Springs and "J" Hangers with Grease and OK Oil Axleboxes for AA16 Brake Van
     

    Springs with Grease and OK Oil Axleboxes for Cattle Wagons and Vans
     
    Until I see the results I do not know if the Springs and Axleboxes will print (even in FUD), which is why I've put a few spares on the sprues.
     
    The models were all drawn in Google SketchUp, and saved as .STL files using a suitable Plugin. The resultant files have been passed through NetFabb to fix any problems (hopefully the resultant "repaired" files will be alright. Because all of the individual files have uploaded to Shapeways successfully I am hopeful that I can put the models I want in a combined file using NetFabb, and when uploaded will also present no problems.
     
    Ian
  18. Ian Smith
    Following on from the successful drawing of a GWR Outside Framed Goods Van (awaiting production and receipt of printed models from Shapeways), I decided to try to capture another of my favourite wagons in Google SketchUp.
     
    This time I've drawn up a GWR Outside Framed Cattle Wagon (which became daigram W2). A SketchUp screen shot of the wagon can be seen below. I do wonder if this may be pushing the current limits of 3D printing as I've made the side planking only 0.6mm thick (although with the framing also 0.6mm thick hopefully there will be sufficient strength). The ends I have tapered towards the opening.
     
    I have drawn little cut-outs in the inside of the upper opening to take some fine wire for the metal rods that were in the area on the prototype.
     

     
    I now intend to draw up one of the GWR Outside Framed Brake Vans (I know that David Eveleigh produces an etched version, but I want to make a Shapeways order worth while so once that is complete will order both at the same time.
     
    (I have ordered 3 of my Outside Framed Vans (in FUD), and including postage this came out at £28 - the postage was about the cost of one wagon). Obviously when the vans arrive, I will post a pic or two to show how successful or otherwise they have turned out.
     
    Ian
  19. Ian Smith
    Well having completed my 3D artwork for the Van, I uploaded it to Shapeways. Disaster!!
     
    Whether it is Google Sketchup, the export to an STL file, or me (probably the latter ) I don't know. In any event the uploaded file had several problems, it was a solid lump (rather than a nice hollow van), quite a bit of the detail had also disappered too (rivet detail on strapping plates).
     
    A little dis-heartened, but still keen to try to produce this little van I decided to completely re-draw the whole thing. This time I have made the minimum measurement 0.15mm (rather than 0.1mm - 50% bigger), so the gaps between the planks are now 0.15mm with a depth of 0.2mm, the strapping plates are now 0.15mm thick too. Also to ensure that it is hollow when uploaded to Shapeways, I have only formed the roof profile on the ends (about the last 2mm of the roof) - I don't see this as a problem as I always intended to fit a roof overlay of either metal or plastic-card anyway.
     
    The model as uploaded can be seen in the image below (a check on the uploaded .STL version reveals that this time it is hollow and all of the detail is intact.
     

     
    The only question now is what to have it printed in? Any idea what the difference between "White Detail", "Frosted Detail" and "Frosted Ultra Detail" is? If I chose a "Detail" rather than "Ultra Detail" material will the detail still be visible? Ideas ...?
     
    Ian
  20. Ian Smith
    Today I received the printed up models of my GWR Outside Framed Van from Shapeways.
     
    I am really pleased with the results (photos below). I had ordered 3 of the little chaps, one of which looks a bit rough on one side (and is in the ultrasonic cleaner as I took the photos of the other 2). Hopefully, it might look better after half an hour or so in there.
     

     

     
    The plan now is to scratchbuild some underframes for these vans (as they are a scale 15'6" long and the 2mmSA doesn't seem to do underframes of this length). In my parts box, I have some old Colin Waite compensated W Irons which I will use (without bothering to build in the compensation), the solebars I will form from some plain metal strip with wire soldered along the edge to hopefully represent the "bulb section solebars" of this type of vehicle. For the roof, I will roll a rectangle of 10thou nickel silver to the appropriate profile.
     
    According to Atkins, Beard, Hyde & Touret, these vans were built from the 1860's to 1886. The earliest would have had wooden underframes, later ones receiving bulb-section and channel underframes. The early ones would have been fitted with grease axleboxes, and later some would probably have received the OK Oil axleboxes. The photos I have of the prototype show single sided hand brake.
     
    Ian
  21. Ian Smith
    Another few blissful happy hours playing with SketchUp has resulted in another model almost ready to go off to Shapeways. This time I'm trying to tackle a GWR Outside Framed Brake Van. The body work is now complete, but I intend drawing up the solebars and headstocks so that all I'll have to do is add the W Irons, springs, axleboxes, brake gear, buffers, foot boards and the handrails.
     
    The images below show screen shots of the Brake Van in SketchUp.
     

     
    I don't know whether they will print up very well (they'll certainly be very delicate), but I've also added the lamp irons. Since comparing my rendition against the photographs of the prototype in John Lewis' article in British Railway Journal No 17, I've noticed a couple of errors in one or two of the corner strapping plates (should have 3 bolts along the side rather than the 2 I've modelled), so I'll correct that when I add the underframe. Luckily, I've modelled them as "Components", so modifying one component will correct them all in one fell swoop.
     
    Ian
  22. Ian Smith
    A little more progress with the Metro Tank. I have now made some of the boiler fittings (Dome and Safety Valve cover). Unfortunately, I do not possess or have access to a lathe so these have been turned up in an electric drill using needle files.
     
    To produce the parts, I used an electric drill, a vice (big enough to hold the drill), various needle files, wet and dry emery paper, and a vernier caliper.
     
    The material used is 1/4" round bar, chosen because the widest point on the Dome (the larger of the two parts) was about 1/4" diameter in 2mm scale.
     
    I mounted the electric drill in a vice and made sure that it was stable and wouldn't move. A short length of brass bar (about 2") was mounted in the chuck and the whole piece blackened with a permanent marker - this allowed me to mark the top and bottom of the part to be turned up (I also marked the extent of the narrowed portions so that I didn't take off too much material).
     

    The drill mounted in the vice, the turning of the dome is well underway.
     

    Illustration of how I held the file so that if it snagged in anyway there was no danger of the handle of the file from going into my hand or wrist. You should also ensure that you have no loose fitting clothes or hair that could get caught in the spinning drill too!!!
     

    After the parts have been turned to shape, they were separated from the bar, then the flat bottom of the parts were filed and sanded to shape so that they would sit comfortably on the eventual boiler - to complete this, a piece of emery was wrapped around a boiler diameter sized piece of brass tube and the base of the part rubbed back and forth until a satisfactory fit was achieved.
     

    The parts were offered up to a piece of boiler sized tube on a regular basis to ensure that they would sit vertical and snuggly.
     

    The completed parts along with the mandatory coin to illustrate the finished articles (the top hat shaped piece will eventually form the vacuum cylinder below one of Richard Brummitt's GWR Siphon kits.
     
    Ian
  23. Ian Smith
    Following on from my previous blog entry, I have again ventured into the world on Templot (it becomes easier each time ).
     
    This time I have taken on board some of my own thoughts and input from others. I have put the whole visible section on a 10'0" constant radius curve. I have also narrowed the gap between the running line and loop (i'm not sure about this change).
     
    The revised plan can be seen in the photo's below (again with some stock on to give me a better idea of what the plan would look like). The platform is 18" long, and I think that it might not be long enough (the whole fits in about 4'6"), and to increase the length will probably mean having 2 boards rather than the one I had hoped to have.
     
    Having looked at the revised plan over a couple of days, I am now wondering if it would be better if the curve went the other way so that the loop and sidings would be on the outside of the bend, as this would give more room in the yard area.
     


    Ian
  24. Ian Smith
    Work has begun in earnest on the GWR Small Metro Tank that I wanted to build, some of you may already have seen the little gearbox that I had built for the project in a reply I had posted in Missy's blog http://www.rmweb.co....-2mm-finescale/.
     
    Well as the chassis was being built I decided that the gearbox already built was a little too large and would encroach into the cab space (the model I am attempting to make will be an open cabbed Metro Tank to suit my preferred modelling period of c1905). So a rummage in my parts box yielded an even smaller worm/gear combo (38:1 I think) than the one used previously.
     
    The first stage was to sweat together the worm gear to a spur gear that would drive onto a further gear on the driven axle, then the sides and ends of the gearbox were "fettled" from some phosphor bronze sheet (actually the material sold by the 2mmFS Association for chassis sideframes), the shape of these parts can be seen in the photos below.
     
    Given my inability to accurately mark out and drill the holes for the worm driveshaft and the gear layshaft acurately, I do what I always do and drill the hole for the layshaft, and file out a slot for the worm driveshaft - the driveshaft will eventually ride in small phosphor bronze bushes that are soldered in place, as this allows the driveshaft to be manipulated to the correct mesh. Note that since the gearbox is built in two halves accuracy in drilling the layshaft holes is not that important as the holes willl be aligned by the layshaft later. Each half of the gearbox is folded and the joint strengthened with solder, hopefully the photo will illustrate this far better than any words would be able to.
     

     
    Assembly is simply the 2 halves of the gearbox soldered together with the gears on the layshaft sandwiched between, the worm is super-glued onto the driveshaft which then has the bushings fitted either end of the worm and that assembly too is soldered into place (I put a drop of oil on the driveshaft between the worm and the bushing just to make sure the I don't solder the whole thing solid ).
     

     
    Once the whole is complete and seems to run without binding, any excess material is carefully filed off (making sure that no damage is inflicted on the worm or gears), the whole lot is washed thoroughly to remove any flux residue, and finally I blast brake cleaner through it to flush out any remaining bits of swarf. The last operation is to flood the thing with oil, and pop the driveshaft in a mini drill to give it a good run in.
     
    In the lower photo the Metro Tank chassis can be seen, the spur gear on the layshaft will eventually engage with the gear on the rear drive axle. The final drive will be 38:1 from the worm then 22:12 giving about 70:1 overall.
     
    Ian
  25. Ian Smith
    Work has begun in earnest on my GWR Metro Tank, I chose this prototype for a number of reasons :
    I had the wheels for a GWR 0-4-2 / 2-4-0 (originally i purchased the wheels from the 2mmSA in the late '80s for a Langley 14xx which never got off the ground)
    Metro Tanks have both sets of drivers within the side tanks (there are no awkward splashers to make and ensure they don't short out on the wheels)
    I have a love of GWR small tank engines

    I now have a roIling chassis built (this can be seen in an earlier post on the Gear box that I've made http://www.rmweb.co....gwr-metro-tank/), so a start was made on the footplate - this is simply a rectangular piece of 10thou nickel silver that has been narrowed at the front (the full width of the rectangle will be used to space out the tank sides - on my chosen prototype the tanks over hang the footplate).
     
    The buffer beams were cut from 10thou nickel silver, and the front one soldered to the underside of the footplate leaving a very small overhang.
     
    The footplate valances (no idea what the real name is) are again 10thou nickel, 2 pieces sweated together with low melt solder and carefully fretted out and filed to shape - the rear step upright section was made long enough so that I could fold the bottom 0.75mm or so up at 90 degrees to form the bottom step (to aid this a slight V was filed across the step section at the fold line, and once the bend made was re-inforced with a small amount of 188 degree solder. Once the V had been filed the two pieces were separated.
     
    One valance was carefully positioned and tack soldered before completing the join once I was happy with the positioning, then the following side was added and finally the rear buffer beam.
     
    The last thing to be done was to add the upper step which was fabricated from some 6 thou nickel strip which was folded into an L section, and an overlong piece soldered in place on the step upright, once I was happy with the positioning, the step was carefully filed back to the right size.
     
    The photos below show progress so far. As can be seen I have kept the footplate whole until I had completed the soldering of the bits that would give it strength - I now have to fret out the area bounded by the 4 holes as this area will ultimately fit over the 4 drivers.

     
    The next item I want to construct is the bunker and cab floor - the cab floor was a raised section above the footplate, and I will form the bunker sides and back around this so that the whole bunker/cab floor assembly is a separate unit which I will bolt onto the footplate. That's my theory at the moment as I will then be able to get into the cab from the rear to add the firebox backplate and detail (as the model will have an open cab).
     
    Forgot to add a coin in the photo, but the footplate is 51mm long
     
    Ian
×
×
  • Create New...