Paul-2mm

What a nice looking layout.

 

This is the infamous Neely underpass! The real Ely one is only 9 feet high and gets regular bridge strikes.

I saw this linked from a thread I was reading on truck net - http://railwayeye.blogspot.co.uk/2012/11/britains-best-bridge-bashes-new-feature.html.

 

Look at the third picture, I wonder when the driver realised that he wasn't going to make it under without losing his head?

Great looking layout Jo.

 

I've looked through the thread and may have overlooked the post but how has the foam core baseboard held up and how do you attach/align the scenic section to the fiddle yard?

I really like this, the first picture looks great and I especially like that bland white familiar sky.

Have a look through this blokes pics.

Might be a good start. A good few Armstrong Trust Pics in his photostream.

Beamish Station. 4 by chrisy76115, on Flickr

 

Google is your friend.

P

I think I may have seen all the photographs currently online, I suppose I was hoping someone might have an odd photo amongst their collection that showed these stations in the background that they didn't think was worth publishing online.

I don't suppose anyone has (or has seen) photographs of Shield Row (West Stanley) or Beamish stations amongst their unpublished collections?

 

Pictures of the station goods yard areas and buildings seem thin on the ground.

I've added some new photos of the Consett end of the line here: http://southpelawjunction.co.uk/wp/?page_id=1143 including a couple of pretty sobering 'before and after' pics...

 

John

Lots of interesting pictures on your site, I can't get enough of them so thanks for sharing.

 

I live near Stanley and vividly remember my mam and dad taking my sister and I for walks to the park at Harperley and walking along the freshly stripped track bed with lumps of iron ore in abundance amongst the ballast.

 

Porcy, do you have your pictures online? I for one would love to see them.

CU0J0364.jpg

You've made a cracking job of that Tom, it's probably one of the best track weathering jobs I've seen in any scale never mind 2mm.

Agree with those sentiments, ours will have 01's, 9F's, Q6's etc!  and Johndon has been in touch with us!

I was just reading your blog the other day and thought this topic may have been an update, the work so far looks great. I have a bit of an interest in this line myself, the J27 I'm building is meant for a layout based on the line when/if I ever get around to it.

 

Looking forward to seeing this layout as it progresses.

Just pass the notes and I will be happy to try

Seriously that is very impressive. The cardan shaft looks very whippy but does the job. What sort of wire did you use.

Don

The cardan shaft is a real bodge job, I haven't perfected the technique for making them so as soon as I made one roughly the right length I popped it in so I could play! The wire is from a guitar string (top E) I've had it years, bought on a recommendation from Andy Calvert to use as handrails on N gauge locos.

I think you need to file a flat on the top of pound coin tender so that it will meet the loading gauge  

Unfortunately it was the only coin I had, have you ever tried stacking £50 notes on a 2mm chassis?

I have a high regard for "motors that came out of the ark" as Chris puts it. The very similar Tenshodo has a shaft that can be pushed along in the armature, making it a single ended motor, enabling this:

 

http://www.zen98812....uk/060chas.html

 

These motors are very robust and run just as well as coreless motors.

I have been very impressed with the capabilities of the Mashima 9/16 motor especially once the magnets have been chopped down to size as required for some of the Fence Houses kits.

 

Here's a short video of a J27 chassis I'm working on, it hasn't run in 4+ months, hasn't been oiled, is only picking up from the tender and I didn't clean the tender wheels prior to recording the video. At one point I turned the controller down a little too much and you can see the motor briefly stall.

 

There's still work to be done as there's a couple of tight spots but I'm very happy with how things are going.

 

Thanks for the response Rabs, I own a Taig (Peatol) lathe and this seems like a similar and popular modification for it too.

 

I'll get around to it one day!

In post number 134 I'm curious about the top picture, is that some sort of milling attachment mounted on the cross slide?

 

I tried clicking "reply quoting this post" but your post never appeared in the reply.

The start price was £0.75, so if people are stupid enough to make such bids its down to them.  

 

Quite, which was exactly why I posted it.

A couple of auctions that finished recently.

 

Keep in mind that these are simply scans that could easily be duplicated as and when the seller wishes, he's onto a winner!

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RailPic-Cl-37-D6790-at-Consett-MPD-/370775775868?pt=UK_Collectables_Railwayana_RL&hash=item5653f55a7c&nma=true&si=lc1BdOmw2RAkwvjjrfrswYJHFvs%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RailPic-BR-Cl-24-diesels-D5105-06-at-Consett-/370775777897?pt=UK_Collectables_Railwayana_RL&hash=item5653f56269&nma=true&si=lc1BdOmw2RAkwvjjrfrswYJHFvs%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

On the subject of etched kits/chassis can someone advise me as a beginner on using the 2mmSA black axle muffs.

They seem so tight as to be almost impossible to press the driver's stub axle into them without giving one cause to fear bending or damaging the delicate etched chassis or ending up with a bent and wobbly wheel.

So my question is should the hole be eased in some way and if so how without making them intolerably loose.

I've tried using a 1.5mm hand reamer but it removes no material from the hole and certainly does nothing to ease fitting them.

I made a D bit reamer (as explained in the Build an 0-6-0 2mm booklet) from a length of axle steel to tackle this job.

 

All this involves is taking a piece of axle steel, file a flat at one end approximately 1/2" long so it resembles a D when looked at from the end and then file a slight bevel on the end. Then you have to temper the steel by heating it until it's red hot then plunge it into cold water. You can then use an oil stone on the flat to make the cutting edges nice and sharp.

 

That's how I do it anyway and it works quite well.

If you put a worm directly on the motor you need to have thrust bearings either end as the motor has none and is quite weak in that respect. I put one into a chassis for a Peco B4 and eventually the worm thrust pulled the motor bearings apart.

 

I'm interested in how you went about fitting thrust bearings, do you have any photographs of how you set them up please?