auxie22

great work Bob!

Hey guys,

It's been a while since my last post, as we have had a lot going on. My Wife and Kids got COVID, so we were in isolation (I didn't get it thankfully). As for the layout, I have mostly been chipping locos, making adjustments to the Control Panel in JMRI, adjusting wiring and also building Block Detectors. Nothing much to see but I will put up some pictures of the Block Detectors and maybe some screenshots of JMRI if anyone likes that sort of thing. 

Thanks Paul, I am also quite partial to a nice wiring layout (no matter how neat or messy it is)

Your Heath Town layout looks nice also

11 days since my last post.... Here is some messy wiring for you all... something I enjoy and so I tend to take my time... planning on getting some train detectors that use current transformers... Then set them up with an Ardiuno and JMRI.... Then onto signalling....

As always, very nice work, Bob

Amazing work Kevin, the attention to detail and general atmosphere is very nice! 

Those buildings look excellent

Great Work Jim,

Looks Excellent!

Been trying to get more done on the layout but work has been a bit crazy of late. So daily updates went out the window.... My middle name should probably be "Mr. Messy"

Thanks,

Jules

Hey All,

I didn't get a chance to do much to the Layout tonight as work ran over but I will be doing a lot more over the weekend (it's Friday, Tomorrow). Need to lay some more track then flip the boards up and mount the point motors and wire it all up. Definitely a weekend job.

Thanks,

Jules

Did a basic layout of the Track, printed out the Anyrail Plan in 1:1 scale so I could lay it out to get a rough idea of where things should be and to make sure the curves stay within limits...

Drilling holes and threading the feeders through the board... the little board on the side is a splitter to split the main DCC bus... This is a low current variety so I mainly use it for my Cobalt IP Digital point motors...

I don't get a whole lot of time to work on the Layout as I work during the day and I have a fairly busy home life but I hope to keep the thread updated each day

Thanks,

Jules

Foam Underlay is done... Now for the track

I'm not very good at woodwork (Electronics is more my speed). But here is the baseboard

Here are the boards in Situ - Yes they are on Storage Tubs

Going to lay foam on the boards next for sound deadening and smoother running...

Thanks,

Jules

Hi All,

My name is Jules, I am an Aussie, I have been into Model Railway since I was 15 or 16. I actually got into it before I got into full sized trains. I've had a few go's at creating a layout but they didn't pan out. I had envisioned having quite a large layout but this year we have the opportunity to move into our own house. I will have the opportunity to build a purpose built shed for a larger layout once we move but while I am waiting, I figure I will make a smaller layout that will eventually integrate into a larger one. It will primarily be Scottish themed and some time between 1958 to around 1963 and somewhere around Edinburgh and Glasgow. I really like the feel of Buchanan Street so I wanted to do something like that but in a smaller scale.      

I will be using Peco Code 75 for the track and it will be DCC.

It will be fully automated using JMRI running on a Raspberry Pi

It will have automated coupling and decoupling and automated signalling. 

Dimensions: 450mm x 2400mm

Trackplan is based on a C.J. Freezer plan (Plan 43 - Crutched Friars)

More to come soon!

Thanks,

Jules

Hi Dave,

It's been quite some time since I have checked out the forums, as life has gotten a little hectic. I have had to put the modelling on hold (due to moving into a new house soon) but every time I come back it just gets better and better. The atmosphere is amazing and the locos look gorgeous.

Hey All,

I know this is an old Topic but as it came up in Google Search I wanted to add another solution. I had major issues programming the Cobalt IP Digital with the Sprog. After a few nights of hair pulling and forum hunting / posting. I found the issue for me was associated with the Speed Step setting in the SPROG Console. Once I changed it to 128 everything started working. I also suggest to use a 15 V power supply for the Sprog. Thanks to the guys over at sprog-dcc groups.io and jmriusers groups.io

looking amazing, Alex

18 hours ago, Crosland said:

 

Sorry, but, no..

 

As already stated, by NIK, these are suppression components to prevent high frequency commutation noise (generated by spark from the brushes) getting out onto the track, radiating, and upsetting next door trying to watch Corrie.

 

These days interference with TV is much less common and more likely to be due to a poor TV aerial and/or downlead.

 

They can safely be removed from any DCC loco and the only advice that will always work is take them out.

 

Some decoders, but not all, are quite happy with them left in.

 

If left in, they can affect BEMF sampling and thus upset speed control.

I stand corrected...

This circuit is what is known as an LC Filter (sometimes a single capacitor on cheaper locos). It is used to prevent damage to the controller and the reduce the acoustic noise from the motor by stopping high frequencies from entering back into the controller and the motor which can also improve running in PWM DC systems. This is primarily used for DC layouts as some controllers don't use diodes to block back EMF (some controllers even utilize the back EMF voltage in sensorless brushless motors). DCC decoders have these filters built in and so the filters on the motor become superfluous to requirements. You can safely remove them but they (normally) shouldn't cause any significant issues if you kept them in.    

Very true, I also superglued them. There are two holes underneath that are perfect for putting superglue in to secure it.

Hey guys, sorry to "necropost" but I have found a solution to this.

Where I have RED in the below picture is where you need to CUT and where I have GREEN is where you need to JUMPER. This will allow you to have a switchable frog that will work with DC and DCC and where you don't have to rely on the point blades making contact with the rails. I don't know whether this will help anyone this late in the game but I came across this issue too and after finding this post, I thought I would post the solution. Also as mentioned by Butler Henderson you may need to superglue the rail connected to the pivot points so they don't come loose.

Hi Dan,

you can do 180 degrees in 1200mm with 2nd radius as long as it isn't scenic..

Hi Dave,

First thing I must say so far everything is looking amazing!

The J83's you have there look like the Hornby ones, have you modified them at all? If so I would love to know what you did, Have you considered these ones? http://52fmodels.sharepoint.com/Pages/J83.aspx

I'm not sure if were interested in a more accurate model as I know the Hornby ones aren't the most accurate. Gem loco's also do a J83 in white metal I believe, but it's difficult to obtain.

Jules

Hey Dave,

That tower is looking excellent! I have had to take a hiatus on my Haymarket based layout. However your thread may very well get the coals burning (pun intended) on it again. Your work is very inspiring!

Regards,

Jules 

Hi Gilbert,

I pm'd you.

Jules