CourthsVeil

Hi, can't see anything fundamentally wrong. Just asking: 30Hz Shure?

Hi Steven, there is no thing one might call "THE best controller". Instead there are different controllers well suited for different tasks. Especially when one uses "all sorts of models from... etc." Regards Armin

"A bridge rectifier has 4 diodes that's 2.8, volts ... less" ... I doubt that, because the four diodes will never be used at the same time. Two are responsible for the positive pulse, the other pair a hundreth second later for the negative pulse. And what has this to do with "the difference between the rated 16 volts AC and 12 volts DC output on many controllers." ??

My, what a speedy follow up! Thanks a lot. Will try to realise it - have just to wait for the components (will be ordered after postal services have calmed down ...). Regards Armin

Yes - muchly interested! Pls go on. In fact I had tried something like this with a LM741 a few months ago. However, as a newbie to OpAmps, being unware of the need of a power stage (the LM741 does withstand no more than 25 mA, as I learned later), my test setup went away in blue smoke. So I need help to do another approach, me thinks.

To quote Nigelcliffe: "However, these days, I'd get a PWM speed control module from Ebay/Amazon (one which goes down to 0% duty cycle, otherwise it doesn't go all the way to "stop"), fit a speed knob to it, plus a direction switch. Power in from a DC PSU "power brick", and job done." I bought one of these - delivery less than two weeks, price under 4 £/$/€ - works quite well with all my locos (old & recent, pancake & coreless, even factory chipped ...) since months. Amply rated at <35V, <5A ... Several types available, looks something like this: No electronic expertise needed, just a bit soldering: fwd|rev switch, 4-pole connector. Power in by a 12V, 0.83A wall wart. No heat sink needed - does fit into quite a small, elegant control box. Regards - CV In Britain they are even cheaper than here in Germany - though same supplier. And prices are still falling.

Hi Thomas, a very nice little layout you have here! Thanks for posting. Will follow your progress with interest. By the way: could you just tell us which kind of locomotive you have (baureihe, manufacturer,,,). Only one? Additions planned? Regards Armin

Nice idea. Will follow this.

Congratulations! Really well done.

Looks interesting, knocker. Waiting for more...

Back again to the posts above (June 3): I made Frank's (Dukedog) controller some six years ago. Use it since then with several of my small layouts - still completely satisfied! As explained in an old post of mine it can be made even without a PCB: just using a choc block connector (five ways) - see here! In addition I use a 12V 10W bulb as overload protection (as Penlan et al. said above).

Hope you will come back when your university things are done. Regards Armin

Indeed, it is (should be...). Guugel was no help. Mit besten Grüßen Armin PS: Aaah, I use www.dict.cc too. Makes life in English forums a lot easier.

Can only second that. Very convincing. Btw: I ceased to scrape the pastel chalk on the brick paper. Instead I rub it in a tea strainer (bought for myself - not off the kitchen ). Makes finer/even powder. Also, I produce the templates (Scalescenes call them Base Layers) for buildings and their walls together with the windows in the same image. The latter in a separate layer - and then printed on OHF. This ensures a perfect fit of the windows and their respective infills. Thanks for showing and explaining your fine work. To be continued... Regards Armin PS: I hope you'll understand my rusty English...

Look here: a simple circuit for Dutch_Master's proposal: to make on a PCB - copper stripes vertical - the big oval comprising the potentiometer. 9V entering from above (blue = negative!), below to DPDT/track. Don't forget the heat sink! Regards Armin

Dear Rob: "Five minutes ago ... I dropped the station building on the floor..." You are a bit late, me thinks. Friday (13.) would have been the appropriate day. Still supportive, though Armin

Hi Jim: here link – now without the word "expensive: " eBay HTH & regards Armin

Really nice work *), Job. Worth to follow! Regards Armin *) as we are used to see from you

Love this, looking for more! Armin PS: I'm unable to see a reason to shunt there... So would not add a second line.

Clever craftmanship what you are doing, Adrian. Really nice! I – being less fanciful than you – would simply have bought a bearing. The iGoggle showed me within a minute a lot of offers at less than a pound per item (plus p&p, of course). Regards Armin Admitting that it is a hundred times more fun to follow your way than plain buying & attaching the bit…

Really stunning what you do. Armin

Agree fully with Chubber's advice, but don't know whether shoe protector etc. will prevent fading. As has been said:only time will tell. If one wants to enjoy such prints for quite a time one should not rely on cheap stuff. Some varnishes may change colour of the print immediately (don't ask how I ... ) Another possibility: let them print out by a laser printer (copy shop etc.). No sealing needed, resistant against damp, nonsolvent glue... HTH Armin

This is so sad, Phil. Perhaps it may help if you have a look at the recent posts in "Dock Green" in this parish... Regards Armin

Impressive, Allan, as usual. But – imho – a bit overdone. With this thick rust crust it would be prone to collapse me thinks. Some wires to keep it vertical...? Regards Armin

Another hint, if I may: prime/varnish it from BOTH sides - unequal treatment of sides makes bending much more probable. Regards Armin