cpman46

Hi Bill

I have posted a reply with a connection diagram to you on the Gauge 0 Guild forum which I hope will confirm your sketch.

Regards

Mike

Another vote for 4 way XLR  connectors. Installed these on an 0 gauge layout allowing controllers to be swapped over if necessary.

LED is driven from 16V ac supply to indicate power available.

Mike

It would be useful to post a diagram of your connections and a picture / details of the step down regulator you have used to enable us to help further.

The switches supplied with the signal seem to use a miniature 3 core servo type cable and plug to connect to the control box. Anyone any idea what the 3 way connector is?

Many thanks

Mike

Seems like some people are getting their 'just deserts'!

34 minutes ago, Nigelcliffe said:

  

 

But, unless you really need a bus or have loads of the control boards, its usually cheaper/simpler to run a multi-core cable around from levers to Megapoints boards.  A cable pre-made with 25-way D-Sub connectors (old style printer cable), and a 25-way break-out board (screw terminals to D-Sub) will handle two 12-channel Megapoints boards (24 switches plus 1 common), doesn't cost much, and is simpler to fault-diagnose.   

 

 

 

 

We used these D Breakout boards on 'Norwich Central' 0 gauge layout.

Perhaps it's 'groan up' and left for pastures new!

3 hours ago, Michael Hodgson said:

If you run it off AC you don't need worry about the polarity - it will only be on half of the time but the human doesn't notice that, it will just appear a bit dimmer than it does on the same voltage DC.  The resistor is important to limit the current.

Agree on both points BUT the LED will be reverse biased on one half cycle of the AC and therefore should be protected with a small diode like a 1N4148 placed across the LED in reverse parallel or in series with the LED and resistor so that the LED only conducts on the positive half cycle of the AC waveform. I see Huw has responded whilst I was typing this).

Regards

Mike

Here's an XLR plug and socket arrangement that I installed on a friends layout.

The LED confirms that 16V ac is available at the socket.

How Deep is Your Love - Bee Gees

12 hours ago, melmerby said:

The biggest problem I have had was the push on edge connectors as most don't fit properly because the slot is too long, with the result that with vibration they can move causing a contact short, some have been modified with small piece of plastic to restrict end to end movement.

The few I had for later motors were a good fit.

If I was starting again I would just solder the wires!

Of 55 Tortoises only one was faulty from new (made a nasty ticking sound) and that was replaced by the vendor and i have had no problems with them in use

 

I got over the problem by soldering small screw terminal blocks to the pcb fingers after drilling extra holes in the fingers to give a straight line (the existing holes in the fingers are staggered), see the photos below.

Mike

Hi Brober

Beaten by dhjgreen with my reply. Personally I would only add another 3 lamps to your existing supply. Another 30 lamps wired in parallel will consume 2400mA (2.4A) so if you want to run them all on the same bus you will require a 12V 4A supply to provide enough power. It might be sensible to split your bus into 4 separate ones and spread your lamps equally over them and protect each bus with a 1A fuse.

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