Jump to content
 

Jack Cregan

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    44

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by Jack Cregan

    Adding 3rd Rail

    in Modelling Questions, Help and Tips

    Posted

    12 hours ago, SRman said:

    After painting the other rails and ballasting is easier, but you may have to scoop a little of the ballast away where the ramps are (as alluded to by Nick, above).

    For purely practical purposes, I have laid all of the third and fourth rail (so far) countersunk slightly so it is lower than the running rails. I know this is the opposite of what occurs on the real thing, but having them higher than the running rails can cause a multitude of problems regarding clearances and for track cleaning purposes.

     

     

    Hi Thanks for the reply.

    I am using code 100 for the running rails and code 60 for the 3rd.

    It's a bit of a cheat but I have the code 60 in stock already.

    Jack

    • Like 1

    1938 Tube Stock

    in EFE Rail

    Posted

    8 minutes ago, GoingUnderground said:

    The destination plates made in 1938 for the '38 stock on the Northern Line included the "Northern Heights" "New Works" destinations of Bushey Heath, Elstree, and Alexandra Palace. These were never used, for obvious reasons, and LT had some sort of repainting process or overlay application with alternate destinations. These alternate destinations were "Mill Hill East", which was applied over "Elstree", I personally peeled the vinyl off my Elstree plate, and subsequently acquired another "Mill Hill East" plate where the raised letters of "Elstree" can be seen very clearly beneath the vinyl, and it is vinyl, not paint. "Bushey Heath" tended to have "London Bridge" applied over it, and "Strand" was applied over "Alexandra Palace".  The first overlays may not have been vinyl but paint, but the sort of handling that the plates got as evidenced by the fact that many of them are scored and gouged would suggest that it paint was originally used then it probably didn't last too long and was replaced with vinyl. That is most probably why the condition of the Ally Pally, Bushey Heath and Elstree sides of the plates when they come up for sale is always so good, they've spent the vast majority of their time hidden and kept safe beneath the vinyl overlay. Often they are better than the reverse.

     

    For more information please see the short paper that the transport author and researcher the late Mike Horne prepared which you can access via this link. http://www.metadyne.co.uk/pdf_files/Destinations.pdf

     

    Over the years I have acquired several unused vinyl destination overlays, the backing to which is Fablon in one case, Fasson Fascal in four others and blank on the remainder. I cannot say when they were produced or applied to the plates as they are all undated.. The lines concerned are the "East London", "Piccadilly", "Bakerloo", and "District.", which supports the view that it was LT standard practice when stock had to be moved from one line to another and there were no destination plates for the relevant Line available for the transferred stock.

     

    I've included a photo of the vinyls that I have, all still with their backing paper intact, plus a Mill Hill East plate where the raised lettering of Elstree is very visible when it is viewed in the right light, and the raised edge of the vinyl can be felt quite easily where it is missing next to the holes where the chains that were used to make up the "books" of plates go.

     

    Vinyls.jpg.daf8ab65575f3a49260148db8c290792.jpg

    Fascinating! Any idea what year the New Cross Gate vinyl originates from?

    Jack

    • Like 1

    BRM June '18

    in BRM Magazine

    Posted

    As Steve posted the DVD is only with subscriber copies (posted direct rather than reserved at newsagents) and the digital edition this month.

    Why? I have reserved my copy through my newsagent since issue No 1. and have never missed an issue. I pay €6.95 for my copy and I look forward to the DVD every month. No mention of this in the Editorial either.

    Bad business.

    Jack

    Dapol Class 22

    in Dapol

    Posted

    It's a little difficult to explain- but here goes:

     

    At each end of the bogie frame cover there are two small plastic tabs in the rectangular cut-out. These need to be pressed inwards and slightly downwards very firmly using a suitable flat bladed screwdriver.  Make sure the loco is held securely. You will fund that the tabs will move inwards, but try not to use too much force as you risk damage. At the same time lift the whole bogie frame upwards and it should release . Do each end of the bogie frame one at a time

     

    Reassembly is just a matter of positioning the bogie frame and pushing it until it clips into place.     

     

    A little trial and error worked for me. The main thing is to ensure the loco is held securely in some sort of cradle whilst you are performing this operation.

    Thanks for the very good instructions. I had a dodgy pick up and couldn't figure out how to remove the keeper plate thinking it came away separately.Thanks again. Jack

    The Official Rapido APT-E Thread

    in Rapido Trains

    Posted

    I asked for my order number on the 15th of January and got the following reply:

     

    Hello John


    Thank you for your email

    The way the certificates are being issued has changed since we first announced the models so unfortunately at the moment I cannot say what the numbers will be.

    If I can help with anything else please let me know

    Cheers


    Sandra

    Dapol Class 22

    in Dapol

    Posted

    Hi Bubbles2

                         So I take it the blanking plate has failed.I am on dc and using gaugemaster controllers (both normal and feedback) and have had no problems with other manufacturers locos.Forgive my ignorance but who are DCC and how do I make contact?

    Jack

    Dapol Class 22

    in Dapol

    Posted

    Hi All

    Just purchased one of these and am quite pleased with the looks and performance but the lights only worked for about 20 minutes.I opened it up and put a 9 volt battery directly on to the lights and they worked but do not light when power is applied to the wheels.Any clues?

    Jack

×
×
  • Create New...