shibushe
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Posts posted by shibushe
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You have stated that you are replacing the decoder with a cheaper version, my experience of DCC decoders shows that a cheaper decoder is an inferior decoder and most people - clearly excepting yourself - would agree with this view.
And who am I? I am like many people here an eBay buyer who is horrified to hear that you are swapping out parts on a loco that you have sold.
As requested by another poster, what is your eBay seller ID, I want to make sure that I avoid purchasing anything from you and others will want to similarly avoid buying from you.
I repeat who said it was INFERIOR, maybe I should not have said cheaper, I would also add the fault has been found. The Loco is running perfectly.
Give you my ebay ID. Not likely, I see the prince of darkness & his disciples looming
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That's not on, especially if your sales blurb included the make and model of the decoder.
No its not on, more so as you have not read my listing, what do you know anyway.
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Clearly the new decoder doesn’t do the job as well as the old decoder as the old one worked
And How will the buyer feel when he gets a loco supplied with an inferior decoder to what he/she is expecting?
Who said, the buyer has actually received this Loco, And did I say the replacement was inferior. Who are you anyway.
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OK. Lets explain. I sold this Loco on ebay. I decided to replace the expensive decoder with a cheaper version that did the job just as well.
Before this was done the Loco worked fine.
As I said, once I replaced the new decoder I was getting a No Response error when trying to set this decoder to default.
PS.I never run a Loco after decoder fitting without going into Program mode first.
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Recently had cause to replace a 21 Pin Decoder in a Dapol Diesel Loco. The Loco was working fine up till then.
Re-fitted a new Decoder and on powering up the decoder went up in smoke.
Replaced with another, only this time Loco will not program, or show any sign of life.
It has been suggested that one of the soldered joints on the socket has failed. ( Dry Joint ? )
Any other ideas Guys.
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The Question. Before the A4s had double chimneys fitted.
How many ran in BR Green and a Corridor Tender.
I am sure you guys have the reference books to give me the answer.
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Anyone have an opinion of these Decoders at £12 each.?
Cheap decoders have not always performed well thats why i ask.
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Assume you have checked out the instruction manual ?
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According to the NMRA Listing. 131 is. Trix Modelleisenbahn. Who ever they are.
Sounds Germanic to me.
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I use DCC80s. Not had any problems. May be the decoder as some have suggested.
It cant be a short otherwise your system will shut down.
The only thing I can think off. Are the point blades and the Rails they contact Clean ?
As stated on this Forum many times, Re-Badged Decoders can be a bit iffy.
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Just mention that my experience of this decoder has not been positive, because of that I would not buy another.
For another few pounds you can get a Zimo.
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Yes Rail Rom Electronics. Find it in the drop down menu.
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Some of mine are 15 years old and still performing. I would think that providing you dont do something silly should be fine.
Early mistakes I made doing Hot Wiring did set fire to a few.
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I had exactly the same problem with a Next 18. The advice was, to do this.
Turn the Loco the other way, if it still does it, then the decoder is at fault.
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I must admit that it was a rather cheap decoder that I just keep for initial DCC testing.
I will try a better decoder and see if i get the same result.
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What can cause a decoder to feel hot to the touch ? and I mean HOT.
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IF, its not an earlier model, then its possible the lighting contacts are not touching between the body and PCB.
Have had this problem my self.
A gentle bending up usually fixes it.
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DCC 80 Frog Switch. Great piece of kit used several, never failed to do what is says. Only 3 Wires.
Have Two unused packs. £10 each Free Post. PM me if interested.
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Hopefully i am in the right place.
I wish to rename & number a A3. That has a corridor tender, & smoke deflectors. ( Not 4472 )
Most i know had GN Tenders.
Thanks in advance.
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Playing around with this cheap decoder was a waste of time, so have fitted a Zimo MX600R a make I would normally use anyway.
Without any adjustments its so slow it will take a week to get round my layout.
Now I know where I am programming it to suit me will be a doddle.
Lesson learned i guess.
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I bought a LaisDCC decoder once as it was cheap and replaced it after about 20 mins with my normal Lenz as I couldn't get a decent speed curve or smooth running with it.
they are made by Lais in China (http://laisdcc.com/) and IIRC they were ripped off TCS decoders at one point, I wont ever find out as I will not be buying one again.
NEITHER WILL I.
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Thanks for tips guys. Will have a play with CV 2 see what happens.
The Loco in question is a Hornby A3. Brand New. Loco drive. socket in tender.
I must admit the decoder is Cheap, bought from Digitrains.. Laisdcc, dont know who makes it.I would not normally change CVs 5& 6 until its fully run in.
Report back later.
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Having fitted a new decoder to a new Loco drive Loco. I find the speed is to fast at step 1.
I did a reset to default 3 just to make sure there were no variables loaded.
I am aware this Loco is not run in, cant see that would make any difference.
Thoughts any one.
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Hi yes the manufacterer is 145 and the decoder version 037
Thats a Zimo ID. The sound settings I think are along way down the page. Good Luck.
SINGLE CHIMNEY A4s QUESTION.
in Modifying & Detailing RTR stock
Posted
Jamie. Jason. Thank you very much for the time you have taken to answer my quistion.
Have stored it for referance. Cheers Guys.