Michaelaface

I’ve now sent this loco back to Hornby 3 times and they’re now telling me that there are no issues with the loco…

absolutely useless company

7 hours ago, melmerby said:

I've used Peco N gauge insulated joiners on code 75 bullhead, they seem to be just right.

I think I might have some of these knocking about already will give them a go, thanks!

this is really frustrating as I really liked their products 

15 minutes ago, Buhar said:

DCC Concepts do some as well.

 

Alan

I can only find flat bottom joiners on their page, am I being blind?

Hi all, I've had a search around and can't find a definite answer, but does anyone have a solution to isolating sections of peco bullhead track? in my case I do this for DCC automation purposes, but I'm not satisfied with the methods I've come up with so far

I've tried
1) modifying code 75 insulating joiners so they're the right length, but these can fall of the track very easily, and are very poor at keeping the rails aligned 
2) supergluing the rails to the chairs in the area I want to break the rail and dremmeling through the rail (3/4 chairs either side of the rail cut) I absolutely hate doing this but its more reliable than the first method

is there are product I've missed that can solve this, or is there a better way of doing this that I've missed

On 23/02/2022 at 22:27, sjp23480 said:

Have you run the loco on your layout? 

 

I have a number of RTR locos that run like this on the rolling road, but run on the layout just fine.  

 

May be I should have sent them back too!

That's how I discovered the problem, the flanges on the driving wheels clip each other as they rotate, which also causes them to catch on various detail parts to the point where the loco would stall

On 23/02/2022 at 21:39, G-BOAF said:

Seems to me like the wheels are not properly square on the axles. Try a back-to-back gauge at various points in the wheel revolution - I suspect the distances will be all over the place (fraction of a mm but should be noticable if you use calipers).

Or you could have some misshapen wheel centres. Either way, Hornby should be replacing the wheel sets if you sent it for repair. However your best bet now might be to return for a full refund and buy another (hopefully better) one.

they said they replaced the wheel set on the last return, which makes me think its not the wheel set that's the issue, and sadly I don't think I need a back to back gauge to confirm that 

On 23/02/2022 at 16:39, woodenhead said:

Maybe this is the first in a new range of inspired by models, in this case an Ealing comedy.

 

As others have said, I'd ask for your money back if it is no better than it was.

I don't think I can at this point, got the loco via amazon (first mistake) and they say its too late to return now, which is why I tried to get it repaired via Hornby instead

On 23/02/2022 at 16:27, Rowsley17D said:

The bearings look shot. You need a full refund. I'd also send a copy of the video to:

 

technicalservices.uk@Hornby.com

 

I'll give this a shot and see what happens 

So I’ve just had this loco back from Hornby for the second time and it still runs exactly the same, am I missing something or are they just not fixing my loco?

Hi all, I have an issue with my Hornby City of Salford R3856 and I was wondering if anyone on here can help me diagnose and solve the problem

the loco arrived with multiple issues and its already been sent back and returned from Hornby, but still has, at least that seem to me, fairly severe mechanical problems, where the front two driving wheels move so much that they catch on each other when running, thus creating a significant wobble and poor slow running

here is a video that hopefully should show exactly what I mean
 

thanks
Michaela

unfortunately for a variety of reasons everything on this current layout is fixed in place, otherwise that'd be an ideal solution

here's what I've gone for in the end, this was a test but the 45 degree angle works quite nicely, so I'll be repeating it around the layout


 

for reference here's how everything is currently set up, forgive the mess in the middle of rebuilding and just reached the wiring stage

a lot of it was improvised with whatever was on hand just to get things going, but the more I operate the layout the less happy I am with it all, also I've tried mounting things under the baseboards and I find that an absolute pain to wire up

thank you for all the input! keeping wires to the minimum has always been preferred way of doing things, maybe too much of a minimum sometimes

another fairly daft sounding question but how do you all go about mounting these components? screwed to the bottom of baseboard? bespoke cabinets?  looking for inspiration in how to go about things here 

so basically, leave as is and I just need to rethink how I've placed them

This may be a bit of a dumb question, but just looking for thoughts and advice on where to put all the DCC components on my layout (command station, block detection, accessory decoders, etc)

as it stands, I have my command station next to the fiddle yard, as it has the largest amount of dropper wires for power, and I try to keep all the other components the shortest distance from where they are relevant, so I have 3 boards around the layout next to each junction with a DCC concepts ads-8fx for points and a digikeijs 4088 for block detection, and anything else that section, everything works fine, but I am getting a little irritated with the wiring getting a little busy, and having these boards all over the place, and accessibility is hindered at times, with it being awkward to check things, or these control boards getting in the way

now I've noticed that on a lot of larger DCC layouts (my layout is 3.5m by 3.5m roundy) all the DCC equipment seems to be in one place (server cabinet style kinda thing), so basically I was wondering whats the best way to go about wiring everything, so it still functions properly, but with neatness and accessibility as the key

Should I move all the components into one place, or will the distance of the wires, to point motors etc, become too long and affect performance

hello, n00b question here, and I think I already know the answer

but to install sounds on an ESU decoder do I need the ESU lokprogrammer hardware? or is it possible to use my DR5000

I only ask because there are sounds I'd like in some of my H0 locos, and I cannot find those sounds for sale preinstalled on decoders anywhere, but I can find the sound files available for free online from ESU

failing that, anyone know where I can get a DCC sound decoder for a Railjet/RH1116 locomotive?

Fitted a stay alive to this loco and it now runs perfectly! are there any issues I should look out for now there is a stay alive installed? avoiding shorts at all costs?

Just solved the problem, noticed that for some reason the unit had gone into gateway mode instead of bridge mode, everything is working now, sorry for the n00b error

Right everything can connect to the dr5000 router, as in the WiFi connection says connected to dr5000

However there seems to be a break in the internal connection between the router and command station

so devices connect to the router but can’t connect to the actual command station

3 minutes ago, Locoman58 said:

try with PoM

getting a "no read" error message now

3 minutes ago, Locoman58 said:

ok so please set back to default value 0

 

I can't my program track just gives me the "no load" error now


 

33 minutes ago, Locoman58 said:

SORRY forgot to mention:

there is CV 361 for power management in case of contact loss, please try if it helps with values anywhere between 1 and 14.

 

I have just tried this and now I am getting no response from the decoder at all

its an 18pin D&H SD18A I got from locoman, I've had a look through the CVs and sent him an email asking, but I'm not really sure which ones I should look to tweak, I set CV3 to 0 to see if that'd solve anything and while it does stop the constant acceleration restart, it still cuts out regularly and isn't really ideal for sound operation, CV10 doesnt seem to exist on this decoder (disabling that has solved a few issues for me before) aside from that I'm at the limits of my current knowledge regarding CVs so any advice for what I could try would be appreciated 

hmm forgive me here, but I've no idea what the possible fault could be though? the loco runs fine on DC (gave it a good hour each way to run in, no problems) and still runs fine on DC with the decoder attached

if I put a weight on top of the loco as it is running I've noticed the problem becomes less of an issue but still happens every now and then which makes me think somehow there isn't enough power getting to the decoder (not sure how with it being fine on DC) hence the stay alive thought 

hello forum, was wondering if any of you have any ideas as to how I could solve an issue I'm having with my J72
it runs perfectly on DC and on DCC on a rolling road, everything is clean, the track is clean, no issues, except when I place the loco on the track, the decoder will constantly reset making running impossible

would a stay alive solve this? or is there something else I'm missing here

here is a link to a video that demonstrates the issue

https://youtu.be/UVnij82TZs0

thanks 
Michaela

I'll get my bank account ready to take the hit

okay the device is now functioning normally via USB, not entirely sure what I did differently aside from trying to update from different computers

however devices seem to not be working via the wifi now, phones can all connect fine, but the Z21 app can't, the computer can connect fine, but can't control the device