N15class

Right the 2P is now finished. Over the weekend I will hopefully get this and the others photographed, and boxed ready for posting and putting into the cases for traveling to the UK. So what did I need to do. Well, I made the other two front spectacle plate windows. The blackhead and reverser were fitted to the cab. The oilers were fitted to the brackets above the front footplate. Now for the picture fest. I've just noticed I've not fitted the whistle.

I was once told if your not making mistakes your not making anything. Looking good, I wouldn't fancy painting them, it was hard for me in 7mm. By the way those bicycles will never fit in the guards compartment.

An ex Reading racers fan here, got into when they moved to the new track, in the 70's, alas no more as the land became to valuable to use for anything but development. Pretty sad money comes above all these days.

I assume that it does too, I remember remember reading somewhere, that in the day coaches were stored for quite sometime after varnishing as it took a while to cure. I would image varnish was mostly linseed, with white spirit and a curing agent.

Fair old jaunt from Llandudno to Torbay, hope you had a good time.

You have more patience than I do. Very interesting work though.

I'm sure you will find the instructions are a hindrance rather than an aid. They were iirc an exploded diagramme, a poor drawing and some notes that told you nothing. Best thing to do is get a decent drawing, and loads of photos, work out where the model differs, decide if you are going to correct or live with said faults. Honestly the instructions will not tell you where each bit goes, they expected you to do your share of the work too. Jamieson's are scratch build aids nothing else. What comes out at the other end is all your own work.

What a lovely and unusual tram loco. Very well made, and obviously put together with thought.

Managed a couple of hours on this while paint was drying. I'm sort of copying LSWR practice with the cab interior, mainly looking at O2's and G6's working on the principal they'll all be similar, as designed by the same man. Here are the two cab sandboxes, they go in the bunker, cab side corners. I presume as they seem to have wooden tops they lift off for filling. I need to add operating levers. Next is the locker that fits on the rear spectacle plate. This is ready for fixing in place. I made it as a simple box then added the door detail to the front. Now back to the frames. I needed to make the compensation beams that sit either side, against the frames. I cut out the basic shape from two pieces of nickel soldered together. When made I tacked them and the frames together, and drill a pilot hole for pivot point. I always on this wheel arrangement, put it a millimetre or so towards the outer end, to put just a little more weight on the leading wheel. I find this leads to less derailing due to it not lifting quite so easily. It works for me, whether the theory is correct or not I'm not sure. I also made a start on cleaning up the springs, I didn't get very far as they need more work than I first thought. The springs had more mould lines than I first saw, and the spring part is actually curved and in need of straightening. Then the usual task of getting the hangers inline and at the correct angle. The lefthand one is almost complete, the others are patiently waiting their turn. Should be able to do more shortly.

Thanks Chas. Pleased it's finished, one rather large learning curve.

I used to live over the other side. Lovely area.

It is I feel a problem with living in a rainforest. We have weather that most would not believe. From 4" of rain in a couple of hours. Even when sunny which is most days it's very humid. It doesn't happen all the time, but even on nickel silver, which I had no problems painting even in winter in the UK.

It is I feel a problem with living in a rainforest. We have weather that most would not believe. From 4" of rain in a couple of hours. Even when sunny which is most days it's very humid. It doesn't happen all the time, but even on nickel silver, which I had no problems painting even in winter in the UK.

The 2P is finally getting it's identity. The emblems and smoke box number are from Fox. The cab side numbers are from HMRS. The cab interior is also being painted. I also started with the pickups. The bogie was first. I am using Slater's strip to make back scratchers. You can see the simple plugs that make removal straight forward. There is not much space around the drivers. So the rear are underneath, and the front are on top along with the mounting of the motor wires. These will be given a coat of black before the varnish is applied.

Without going out and buying paint that I probably won't use this year, I used good old humbrol gloss.

Chas It was a kit that had been started, not many of the rivets where in the right place it took lots of time to put them right. If I'd had my way I would of had a none rivetted 2P.

Finally the buffer planks dried, so after some masking the airbrush came out, mixed up some paint and thinners. I must say that I'm glad I started again rather than trying to patch paint. A few days I'll get the transfers done. So maybe on Tuesday I can do the varnishing. First off some shots of the tender. This looks so much better than the first time around. Next up the loco. I have noticed I didn't take the masking off lift weights and weigh shaft. Again much better than a patch paint job. I still have a little work to do, pickups etc. But I feel I've finally broken the back of the project.

Lovely photos.

Near where I lived in Dorset, there was a bend called cow#### corner. There was a farm there two gates either side and the dairy herd driven across twice a day. Even cars would come a cropper there.

I have a feeling a few more days it might of cured. I blast with the hairdryer every so often. I have about 30 days left, so I can wait a little more. I just don't want to be an old man when it's finished.

The roof is done, now just needs to cure for a while before I give it a coat of varnish. Then I can put it all back together.

Nice experiment, you'd need a calendar for my red buffer beams, still not dry.

That's what I've been using. I've been having problems with primer sticking to the model, whether it's brass or nickel. Just in certain places if it gets knocked or as above with tape. Just a little comes off but while cleaning up to repaint some parts just peel off. It's almost like there was grease or water under the paint. Whether it's a bad product I'm using here, or just atmospheric conditions.

I presume the plastic floats are easy to get? What do you do about the brass jets?