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JCL

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Posts posted by JCL

  1. On 15/11/2023 at 09:04, gr.king said:

     

    I think I once saw a working model of a Sturrock goods loco and steam tender. With the tender having an unusual wheelbase, tank dimensions unlike any obvious RTR or kit options, and cranks/rods outside the outside frames, I can only imagine that it was built almost entirely from scratch. Maybe the sort of thing that Mike Sharman would have done?

     

    I'm a little late, but how about this Graham?

     

     

    • Like 7
  2. They look great. Looking at the bark, my guess is Douglas Fir. New growth and old growth - bottom ones about 300-400 years old.

     

    First day back at work, and my procrastination levels are high.

    • Like 1
  3. On 10/11/2023 at 05:11, SteveyDee68 said:

    There is a real danger that I might just succumb to one of these in BR black early crest, as I always wanted one of the Hornby versions of this loco as a kid. Don’t really know why - it was something about the shape that I found aesthetically attractive!

     

    Did these ever get into Norfolk/Suffolk?

     

    Steve S

     

    Well, 234 were inherited by the LNER, and 134 were taken over by BR, with the last ones withdrawn in 1961, so if you don't research too much (unfortunately I don't have that Yeadons), then there's every chance they might have ;) 

    • Like 1
  4. 7 hours ago, rue_d_etropal said:

    And yes, I do keep on suggesting similar ideas. That is because noone is actually listening. 

     

     


    I think you’ll find they are, but you don’t like the answers.


    We’d all like to design something that will work for all printers, but as others have said, you are looking for a level of maturity in an industry that isn’t there yet. And unfortunately repeating that it should be so won’t make it so.

     

    It reminds me of personal computers back in the late 80s, there were lots of operating systems out there, and none of them were compatible with each other. Over the next couple of decades most of them, like OS/2, BEOS, NextOS, etc, fell by the wayside until you now pretty much have Windows, Apple’s OS and various flavours of Linux. It all takes time. 
     

    As someone said, if you’re interested in selling your designs, release a couple of models to people and get some free feedback, and then you’ll know for sure where the issues lie with them.

     

    Also, go to YouTube, it’s not all hobbyists on there, some channels have industry news on them from time to time, so you can keep up with developments.

    • Agree 2
  5. Tthis is a long one - or at least it looks long on my phone…
     

    I’ve had a chance to sort out my printer. It’s been running fine but not great for a while, depositing blobs on the model and generating “candy floss” at the nozzle. So last night I set to, and using this video, I cleaned out its hot-end using the video below for reference.

     


    I found that the end of the PTFE tube had deteriorated pretty badly. The end was burnt and there was gunk on it.

     

    IMG_3860.jpeg.b19ae6751e57eec4a06bf81b1e702290.jpeg

     

    After freeing up the end, I used my 3D printed pipe cutter to slice off the damaged part.

     

    IMG_3861.jpeg.fa7809ce5aa95fbb9283245f8cc55c0b.jpeg


    Then after I put it all back together, I decided to change the operating system. My current one, Jyers, is no longer supported, snd everyone is talking about the benefits of using MRiscoC, so I moved to that one  using this video.

     

     

    The only fly in the ointment is you need to use an 8GB card to do this, and I no longer have one, so I used some partitioning software to make a 32GB card pretend to be an 8 GB card.

     

    I'm really pleased I made the change, as the levelling/tramming is a lot easier than before, and the whole thing feels much better thought out.

     


    After that I created the mesh that maps the flatness of the build plate, and test printed a cube. The PLA brand I used has given me a lot of gyp, (so much that I almost considered donating it to a local Makerspace), but after the clean it printed well!.

     

    Just before a huge storm hit this evening (electricity is out in the next town over, and it’ll be here anytime now), a 6 hour print of a railcar underframe in 7mm has completed. It’s my best print for a while.


    IMG_3863.jpeg.3cd68735ae540353bfca656c2252109b.jpeg


    I printed a skirt at a distance of 0mm just to catch the tips of the cross braces.

     

    IMG_3865.jpeg.6f4d5635efdad1d16a453bafcd09430c.jpeg

     

    Next is the rest of the chassis, then the body, and finally the roof. 
     

    Onwards and upwards!

     

    JCL

    • Like 5
  6. I know we’re way off topic now, but it’s not much cheaper to have stuff sent from the US to Canada.

     

    To bring it back slightly more on topic, I have had another look at bridging with the Ender 3, and tried a .2 and .4mm thick 

     

    The .4mm looks pretty good - the horizontals don’t show much sag

     

    64FA6303-FF33-4089-A3EB-4774B51B5FB4.jpeg.71cc5273891442ce94b9899c5f1d2b3a.jpeg

    the .2mm showed almost as much sag as not bothering. You’ll see I broke the .4mm frame while I was removing it. So next I’ll do .4mm, but won’t let it touch the sides.

     

    which I suppose goes back to the idea that sometimes you have to just use trial and error to ensure you have a supportable/ printable print. 🙂

     

    DF0BD6A1-4FF5-418E-82C3-EADC19F60250.jpeg.18b26b7a5cd326259b084b6b6cf3b471.jpeg

     

    I'll redo the prints in a much more organized way and put the results up.

    • Like 2
  7. I haven’t been able to add photos from my pc for some reason, and then I realised I can reply from my phone.


    24 hours after setting the print off I printed the shell. It’s pretty sturdy and dropping it on the floor (by accident!) didn’t harm it. I have to clear the windows out, but I’m very pleased with it.

     

    501A5F1E-DACD-4369-9335-FC2C08ABD9F0.jpeg.dfa716a41504dd4d1768f78ce3fcbacb.jpeg

     

    452D325D-1FD3-4D0F-90CC-DC90B705FB61.jpeg.3bebe7519fc9a24d77ce602580d096b2.jpeg

     

    I’ve also been testing some upscaling. I’ve a GNR railcar I drew up a couple of years ago. I printed it in 4mm and @chris p bacon kindly motorised it for me. To test my Ender I’ve printed a portion of it in 7mm scale, and I think it came out ok. Before I print the full thing I’ll need to set up some supports for the tops of the windows, but, yeah, it’s looking ok.

     

    6C7698BE-0D60-4138-BE5C-25BCA3414D6E.jpeg.9e5728697ec7c058874df7547a67b1a7.jpeg
     

    44ACA099-1434-465C-921B-78EC30B35DA3.jpeg.96db1bdf52a14b240ec64440bf097876.jpeg

    • Like 11
  8. I thought I’d put this up here. After MonkeysAreFun's great posts, on the FDM side of things I’m testing a scaled up 7mm scale print on my Ender 3 v2 to see what sort of detail can be printed at 0.12mm. The full thing will take up my entire build plate so I'm only doing a small portion for now, and after 3 hours it’s come out ok for a first pass. I haven’t put any supports in for now, so the window openings gives me a good idea of the sagging I would get if I printed as-is.

     

     

    10206739-1AC1-4F35-8EF2-B76AC7BC77B5.jpeg

    A6234CBE-8AEB-4C9F-A3C7-B73B9FC662D1.jpeg

    • Like 3
  9. To be honest, I've not resin printed for a while, but that's what I did. I had a large container that I filled up with gunk and then eventually took it down to the dump for proper disposal.

     

    I do like that some people have 2 containers of IPA - one which is used over and over for the first wash, and then the other which is kept as clean as possible for final wash. Once I get back into it (I'm using strimmer line at the moment), I think this is something that I'll be doing.

     

    Before that I need to wildly agitate my resin as it's been sat for two years...

  10. Getting bridging, overhangs, etc right is down to angles and supports. Support size, type and placement is a bit of an art, and can be frustrating to start with - I've had my fair share of models thrown in the bin, especially at the beginning, and do now sometimes. The only way to learn what's possible/desirable is to do it yourself.

     

    It's fair enough that you like designing but you've no desire to print anything yourself, but if that is the case, unless the person you are writing it with is someone with 3D printing knowledge, you should turn down the article.

    • Agree 4
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