Charlie24
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Posts posted by Charlie24
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Please can someone tell me when Network Rail had the Class 57s and roughly how long? From what I can gather they acquired them in late 2011 and moved to DRS at some point during 2012 but can't find dates.
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2 hours ago, cypherman said:
Hi Charlie,
Have you tried putting power directly to the motor to make sure that the motor still works? That's the first thing I would try. If it does run, then you are looking at a wiring fault. As you have said, you have pulled the red wire out by accident. That wire was there presumably was for power, as the engine does not run now. There are 3 things you could do. One is to dismantle the wiring and try and find out where the red wire should be fitted and soldered it back in place. Or you could strip out all the DCC fittings and wire it as a straight DC engine. Both would require a modicum of soldering ability. You might if you do that stop the lights from working, as I do not know how the power to the lights is wired in, or they might end up being on permanently at both ends. The third option is to send it to someone who can fix it for you. How old is the engine. If it is fairly new, Bachmann would probably fix it for you for a price. Are there any clubs near you that you could ask them for advice and help. There is also the option of getting in touch with someone like 00Bill on YouTube. He repairs engines and makes videos of the repairs to be shown on YouTube. Modern engines wiring just looks like too much very fine and fragile spaghetti to me these days.
These are to me your options to fix your engine, I hope you manage to get it fixed.
Thank you for your detailed reply. No, I haven't yet applied power directly to the motor. It is a pre owned loco however it was tested recently by the previous owner and no problems, so think this wire has been damaged in the interim. I have decided I will arrange a repair through my local model shop.
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I have a Bachmann Class 66 which was previously DCC fitted but the DCC decoder has been removed and replaced with blanking plug as I'm running on DC. Head and tail lights are coming on fine as soon as the wheels make contact with the track and their brightness increases as the controller power increases, but the loco doesn't move at all. Have tried oil. Removed body shell and PCB, I then found a loose red wire which looks like it goes down to the motor, the wire then came away completely as I gently pulled it. Wondering whether this is a wire that is meant to connect the PCB to the motor and could be the issue if broken?
Any thoughts appreciated. Have attached photo of the red wire after it came out.
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I too have just arranged to send my LNER DVT and a Mk4 to the Hornby service centre following the cam coupling snapping on the DVT and the cam spring breaking on one of the Mk4s. I was swapping the tension lock coupling for a rigid bar coupling when this happened.
My LNER 91 has also gone back to TMC as I have at least 1 faulty light on the sharp end of the unit, as there are no lights illuminated on one side in both modes and on forward/reverse.
Very disappointing.
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Does anyone know whether 91111 and 91118 are meant to have different directional light patterns when running on DC? I would have thought they'd be the same as each other but they aren't (have tested both day and night modes).
Unfortunately regardless of this it looks like 91118 has a fault with at least one light on the sharp end, as I only have one working red tail light when operating in reverse (blunt end first).
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15 hours ago, philsandy said:
Am I right in thinking these couplings do not have a dove tail?
A rigid bar coupling will give you a closer (more realistic) gap between the two. Alternatively try gently bending the power car coupling up (1mm? going off your photo), and bending the dummy car coupling down (1mm) to bring them to the same height. There should be enough give there for them to move this amount without breaking.
Thanks. I have done what you suggested and it has definitely improved. I will probably try and source a rigid bar coupling as a more permanent solution.
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26 minutes ago, Bernard Lamb said:
Not unusual on Bachmann coaches.
The best thing to do is to use a rigid bar coupling.
Get one of the right length and it will also close up the gap between the gangways.
Bernard
Thank you, so like the drawbar style as used on the 220/221 and intermodal wagons?
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Got an issue with a Bachmann Class 108 coupling, the coupling housing on the power car (left) seems to have dropped lower than the one on the dummy car such that the coupling loop from the power car coupling lifts off the attachment point on the dummy car. See photo.
Is there a way this can be adjusted at all?
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There is some discussion on the Dean Park Station FB group about further issues, namely:
-The DVT and the Mk4s are yet another different shade of red to 91118 (so along with the darker red on the old VTEC R3501 set and the VTEC/LNER HSTs and Mk3s, are there now 3 different shades of VTEC/LNER red?)
-The white 'swoosh' on the bodyside is pixelated around the edges. I've yet to receive my DVT to confirm this
-There are glue marks around the glazing of some of the Mk4 coaches
-Front panels on the DVT have not been fitted properly
Whether these are batch-wide issues or just individually affected items remains unclear. Has anyone else got these issues?
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Anyone else think Hornby missed a perfect opportunity to release a retooled East Coast HST in East Coast Grey rather than the re-hashed ex NatEx livery?
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Hornby posted on their Facebook page yesterday that the GNER liveried Class 91 is 'arriving soon' (and then proceeded to call it a uniquely liveried diesel loco which has now been edited out following the post comments! )
Do we have any idea when the others might be arriving, especially 91111 which doesn't seem to get the same amount of publicity as the other 3 liveries?
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Hornby Class 67 glazing issue
in Modelling Questions, Help and Tips
Posted
Looking for some advice on how I can fix this glazing issue on this Class 67? Obviously the cab detail/seats is blocking access to the window from the inside, can this be removed without damaging anything?
Any help appreciated.