Chris GH

Hi Guys

Thanks for the replies.

The STLs I am downloading are drawn full-size.

As @Jimfin says I have set the printer correctly as per the  Photon workshop documentation, so the build plate is dimensioned correctly and also the resin and print properties are set correctly

The same can be said for the settings in Chitubox.

As already said, the STLs are obviously too big for the printer build plate.

I am scaling them using known measurements taken from line drawings and checking with the dimensions of existing models. This scaling works out at 0.66% of the original size.

Chitubox scales them correctly whereas Photon workshop doesn’t.

Regards Chris

 

Hi Thanks for the reply.

I was also setting the object at an angle with supports so that may have altered the scale.

But even setting the object flat on the bed didn’t make a difference.

Another issue I was also getting was that I am scaling STLs drawn full size (downloaded from Thingiverse) to 1:152(2mmFine Scale).

I have now switched to Chitubox which seems to set the bed dimensions correctly as a preset and every thing is scaling correctly.

I haven’t checked the bed dimension of my printer but will try to set them in Anycubic Photon Workshop as  it seems to be more user friendly but as they always say “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”. So I will probably carry on using Chitubox as my slicer.

regards Chris

Hi Guys, Thanks for the replies. I have checked the dimensions as seen on the slicer virtual bed on the laptop and they seem ok using the grid as a guide.

There is a scaling button available and when I alter the scale, the dimensions change as well.

As suggested I will download a copy of Chitubox and try that . Will report back soon

regards Chris

 

Hi Guys,

     Am pretty new to resin printing and have a problem with a slicer possibly making a model smaller than intended.

    I use the RS Designspark Mechanical Cad program for design,  An Anycubic Photon Mono2 Resin Printer and the Photon workshop slicer program.

     After designing a project and importing the STL file into the slicer program, every thing seems to be ok dimensionally, i.e. the item looks correct on the build plate.

All the printer and resin parameters ( I have tried different resins) are entered as recommended and then sliced. 

This file is then added to the USB stick and printed on the Mono 2.

The resulting print comes off the build plate smaller than needed by as much as 25%

        As an example : a component drawn as 13mm x 7mm with a 5mm diameter boss with a 2mm hole, comes off as 7.5mm x 5mm with a 3.5mm boss and a 1mm hole.

I have read on the Anycubic wiki that over exposure can cause larger prints and that under exposure can cause smaller prints.

I have tried altering the normal exposure times in the slicer and on the printer to a higher than recommended number in order to get a more accurate print without any success.

Any suggestions will by much appreciated

regards Chris.

 

On 25/01/2024 at 10:32, Blefuscu said:

Yes, that's my next port of call.

 

I haven't jumped in immediately as I predict there's going to be a lot of information to digest and I'll need a good sit down and a cup of tea, maybe even a biscuit, to get me through.

 

I would favour all resin, because that's all I have. I wondered if the code 55 track would sit nicely in the sleepers, as not to put the tiny chairs under any functional load. ( Although, I'm sure when I get to the templot club I'll find this has all been duly considered.)

I don’t think Peco code 55 rail will fit as it doesn’t have a normal shaped profile of bullhead rail in that it is basically code 80 flat bottom with a double foot to make it look finer by sitting higher in the chairs. 

I model in 2mm finescale and I build all my formations on 0.25mm thick clear plastic.

They come as A4 size and if the formation is bigger tha A4, I glue butt join them with a piece of clear tape for strength across the join.

The track formation plan is fixed to a piece of thin ply wood and the clear sheet(s) are taped on the edges to the plan. Holes are then cut into the sheets at the appropriate positions to allow for track feeds etc.The sleepers are then glued to the plastic sheet(s) as per the plan, chairs and rail are then added as per plan. When assembly is complete, the tape holding the clear sheet(s) to the plan is cut so releasing the whole formation. Then if needed the excess clear material can be cut away leaving the formation intact. Just turn the complete unit over and solder your track feeds to the underside of the rails through the previously made holes in the clear plastic(being careful not to melt anything close)

If like me you build them on the kitchen table or work bench, you can leave them attached to the board for safety .

Build up all your formations on separate boards as per above and when you are ready to fit them to the layout just detach them as described and locate them on the layout as needed

Hope this helps

Chris

Well Done Jerry,

Another gem of a publication.

Being a 2mmFs/Ngauge modeller I really connected with the editorial and It was nice to see the journal featuring a lot of 2mm modelling for a change.

Well Done

regard 

Chris

Really enjoyed last night's episode. 

As already been stated much better than the previous one.

Nice to see most of the animations worked

One moment I really loved was the time when Tim (the presenter) tried to interrupt one of the sci fi team by asking if he wanted any help and he was sent packing with a scowl and the reply "Go and ask Gavin" 

ChrisGH

7 mm track parts are quite strong so there is little chance of distortion if the curves are pre-formed

 

I make my turnouts on building boards, simply cut the templates to shape making sure the boarders are between 1/2 & 1  wide.

Use marking tape to hold the template to the board

Cut long thin strips of double sided tape ( 2 to 3 mm wide for 4mm scale, a bit wider for 7 mm) and have two rows of tape approximately where the stock rails go

Lay the timbers

Now lay the rails, pre bending the curved rails

The only area which may be a bit fragile are the timbers which only have slide chairs on, I superglue the chairs on, but why not lay 2 thin strips of plasticard (under where the stock rails go) before laying the timbers starting 1 timber before the first timber with slide chairs on and 1 timber after the last timber with slide chairs, then use solvent to stick the timbers to the thin plasticard strips, this will stop the timbers moving.

About 30 years ago I started a OO gauge layout using the original C&L sleepers and chairs. This is exactly the method I used then to construct the turnouts. The template was fixed to a piece of 4mm ply (the cheap stuff!!!)with PVA, 2 strips of 0.25mm clear plastic were fixed to the template at both ends using double sided tape, the sleepers were then glued to these 2 strips and then the chairs and rails added after.

Once construction was completed the 2 lengths of clear plastic were then cut at the tapes and the completed turnout was removed .I still have some of them stored in a box just in case I decide to return to OO from my current N gauge layout.

I still use this method when constructing the finescale turnouts but I now use a mixture of 2FS and Finetrax parts constructed on a templot template.

Regards Chris

My copy was delivered Saturday.

Nice article regarding Fencehouses

Nothing else of much interest to me

Regards

Chris

I got my code 40 9mm gauges from an American Company called Railway Engineering they are based in Arizona (I think). It cos me about $30.00 including shipping to the UK for 4. They appear to be made of some sort of plastic but do not include provision for the spacing of check rails i.e. there is no additional slot for the check rails but the narrowest centre section is about 7 mm which would , if you butt the check rail up to the inside edge give a checkrail gap of about 1 mm.

Check out the website www.railwayeng.com

Regards chris

 

Hi Chris,

 

If your templates are printing accurately you don't need to do anything. The easy way to check them is to measure the grid squares carefully.

 

Most printers are reasonably accurate across the width, but some can be out along the length, and it can vary with the type of paper.

 

Templot has a function to calibrate your printer to correct for any such discrepancies. Click the output > printer calibration > calibrate printer... menu item -- Templot will walk you through the process. You can then save the settings in a file for use next time (or make a note of them).

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

 

 

Hi Martin

 Thanks for the reply

Yes I checked the grid dimensions and they came out correct at 150 mm each way.

I also checked the track gauge and this came out at 9 mm (as expected)

so it looks like everything is ok but I will follow your advise and re-calibrate the printer just in case

regards 

Chris GH

 

Just did a calibration and everything sets ok

regerds

chris GH

 

Hi Chris,

 

If your templates are printing accurately you don't need to do anything. The easy way to check them is to measure the grid squares carefully.

 

Most printers are reasonably accurate across the width, but some can be out along the length, and it can vary with the type of paper.

 

Templot has a function to calibrate your printer to correct for any such discrepancies. Click the output > printer calibration > calibrate printer... menu item -- Templot will walk you through the process. You can then save the settings in a file for use next time (or make a note of them).

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

 

 

Hi Martin

 Thanks for the reply

Yes I checked the grid dimensions and they came out correct at 150 mm each way.

I also checked the track gauge and this came out at 9 mm (as expected)

so it looks like everything is ok but I will follow your advise and re-calibrate the printer just in case

regards 

Chris GH

Hi Guys

I am a newbie to Templot and followed the intsructions for printing my 1st template and am a bit confused by the warning message that was printed on my 1st attempt.

It said that my printer (HP Envy 5424) had not been calibrated and that the template could be dimensionally incorrect.

I have not altered any of the printer settings from the default 100%. I have manually measured some of the key dimensions on the printout and they seem pretty accurate so how do I ensure that future templates are accurate?

Any help would be very much appreciated

regards 

Chris GH

Hi Tony

Thanks for the info on the btb measurements.

Different manufacturers = different back to backs ranging from 7.25 to 7.7mm

I set mine a little narrower at 7.35 mm this allows for the rim on the face of the tyres on the Farish wheels to clear the w irons and just gives enough space for the points to engage in the bearings

Chris

Hi Tony

Just a small question

What is the back to back measurement of the 2-027 and 2-028 Wheelsets please?

As an aside , because of the shortage of the conversion axles, I have been cobbling up my own version by soldering short lengths of 1mm ID x1.5mm OD brass tube onto standard 12.25mm axles and fitting Farish RP25 wheels, They are a little tight to the w irons and brakes when set to N gauge btb but seem to work ok

Chris Hodge

Nice little article in this months(October) BRM  by Jerry Clifford introducing 2mm FS. 

It might generate some new members.

ChrisGH

I get mine from Railwayscenics

When printing make sure you put the sheets in the right side up as some printers turn the sheets over when they go through the printer. I use a HP printer which does this. Always get the print on the rough side of the sheet as the ink will smudge if printed on the smooth side

I have experienced fading over a few years of printed brickpaper and this what I now use to protect.

 

292.JPG

 

The other thing I would recommend is good quality photo paper and manufacturers ink.

Like KNP I use Windsor and Newton Matt UV varnish to protect the printed papers used to construct the Scalescenes Models BEFORE construction as it also stops the ink running when it comes in contact with the water based card glue (PVA). I apply a couple of coats via an air brush with a large jet fitted

Yes but why will the Model Rail magazine open in the Pocketmags app and not the itunes(Bauer/Greatmagazines) app which is the only one advertised in the magazine subscription sections ??.

It has already been mentioned that they may have pre-empted the release of the new IOS, but have ruined it for every one until we all upgrade to the new OS.

I use the Pocketmags app for my BRM Hornby and Weathering magazines with no problems whatsoever so now my subscription for Model Rail will go through Pocketmags as well and this will allow me to view it on my laptop running Windows 10 as well as my iPad regards Chris GH

Hi Guys

Sorry I didn't elaborate with my last post but this was the response from Bauer.

 

"Hi Chris,
Thank you for contacting us with your message, reporting this crashing.
With technology moving forward, the device cache of older models is
struggling with the new app, resulting in the crashing.
We are in the process of communicating with our developers to see if
there is anything that can be done about this.
However, we can't guarantee that this will solve the problem, because it
just isn't possible to ensure that the new content is compatible with all
devices and operating systems.
In general, it also helps to make sure that there aren't too many apps
open in the background while using the app. Every app that
runs in the background requires system resources. When a lot of apps are
running in the background, this can cause the device to run more slowly or
not properly as well. If enough resources are not available, problems may
occur.

To avoid such problems, please always quit the apps running in the
background before opening the Model Rail app, using these two
steps:

o close the app and all other apps running in the background
completely by double clicking the home button of your device so that
all programs running in the background appear.

o Push them off the screen to close them.

I am sorry that I don't have the most positive news to report back to you,
and hope
we will hear back from our developers soon.

If you should have any further questions, please do not hesitate to
contact us again.

Kind regards,
ELIZABETH KORFF
Support Manager International ePublishing
 

As I said not a very satisfactory reply in that she gave the obvious answers which are a must do anyway

By the Way

I downloaded the current mag through the Pocketmags App onto my ipad. NOT through the MODEL RAIL App

NO PROBLEM WHAT SO EVER !!!!

so it looks like it is a Bauer Media problem 

regards Chris GH

Hi Guys

I had the same problems with my iPad where it was crashing all the time.

I have all the other major magazines i.e. BRM, RM, Hornby etc and it is only Model Rail that is causing a problem

I emailed Bauer and got the same response as the other posters

So I too have cancelled my subscription and deleted the app,after all what use is having it if you can't use it!!!!!!

Regards chrisGH

Hi Tony,

Why isn't the new DG height gauge listed on the web site?

Regards