daveblueozzie

When i was a youngster in the 60's my dad had a boarding kennels for dogs and cats, the dog kennels were built into the vans similar to the vans shown on this thread.

One of my uncles worked for the railways at the time so he probably acquired them, if i remember correctly my dad had at least 20 vans, 10 either side of a pathway with dog runs at the back of the vans.

I remember as a kid the domed roofs of the vans that were covered in roofing felt of some kind with tar as the sealant which used to drip in the hot weather we used to get in those days.

Sadly no pics of the vans that i remember of those days.

Slightly off topic the cat kennels were built from aeroplane engine boxes from Burtonwood American aerodrome.They were delivered free on big yank trucks.

Again echoing the point that it depends on your prototype. My NCB layout (I'll get round to it one day) is likely to be 'ballasted' with coal dust!

That's another reason why ive not decided on what to use yet, the way mine is set out it will have different ballasts for different areas, like you said coal dust or even slate .

Had a look for the first time at the ballasts that are available (Liverpool model rail) I see what you mean by the oo gauge ballasts seeming rather large.

Not decided what to do yet, not quite at that stage in my layout, but it looks like the medium and fine grade mix is the way to go.

Thanks for all the replies, that has given me some things to consider and maybe with a bit of experimentation might turn up what im looking for.

Dont seem to be able to edit my post, sorry for the spelling it should read coarse sand.

I am wondering what is the best size ballast to use on the layout, oo gauge, ive noticed there are different grades and colours (i know the colour is personal to the layout)

Is there an alternative to the shop bought stuff which seems a little pricey for what it is .

Ive read somewhere that course sand could be used and coloured, and even sieved cat litter

What do you the experts suggest.

Wow! There's some hi-tech stuff here, mostly of the mimic diagram variety. By way of balance, I offer my creation; an old-fashioned lever frame! The levers were soldered up from brass stock and glued to miniature DPDT toggle switches. The DIN socket on the right accepts 2 x 16Vac supplies from a Gaugemaster M1 transformer. The middle socket takes a Gaugemaster Combi controller and the one of the left is a 0 - 12Vdc output used for testing track and powering up a rolling road.

Wow that's a proper job for changing points, love it.

I use gutter guard combined with insect screen to vermin proof the vents under the house. Gutter guard would be difficult to shape to landscape forms without a lot of cutting and taping I would think. Its initial intention is for use in straight runs in your gutters to keep the leaves out. Cheap though - about 10% the cost of chicken wire.

I agree, the gutterguard would be difficult to sculpture landscape, what i intend to do is landscape on top of the flat thin layer of plaster bandage, i didn't want to fill the hole with paper in that section as i need access from the rear. it seems to have worked. and for a £1 it was worth the effort, the plaster bandage i bought from the local chemist, a bit cheaper than the model stuff.

I have used a different method, i didnt want to fill the the space with paper and i hate chicken wire, i used a product called gutter guard cost me a quid from a pound shop and you get five metres of plastic mesh, easily cut. i tried a test piece on the layout.

Richard, deffo no offence taken, i didn't know if it was meant for me or not , so thats why i replied,( it was funny.)

I'm only just getting started on the model rail set up, I'm bound to make glaringly obvious mistakes and i know all red wires might seem dumb to some, but i cant see different colours when they are all together.

Again no offence taken.

I think the worst of the wiring's probably mine (it's a joint project) - but those wires do a lot (see my automation thread)!

 

Unfortunately a major redesign of one end of the layout, whilst improving the layout both operationally and visually, led to a high concentration of point motor studs and indicator lights within a very small area of the panel.

 

And the wires are longer than they need to be to so they don't pull loose when the front of the main panel is dropped. Owing to the reversing loops, most sections are switched on both rails, which also adds to the complexity...

 

It's also fully (?) documented and the range of colours aid maintenance (at least it's not all red wires!).

 

But the important thing is, it all works (at least most of the time!).

Dunno if your referring to my wiring, two reasons for the same colour, one its all i had, and second I'm colour blind

Everything is labeled and numbered from start to finish, i know where every wire goes to, and what it does. I have a blueprint/plan (not coloured) of every detail of the wiring.

Here is a pic of my control panel now thats its nearly finished. It needs LED'S it does not look finished.

After all the wiring only one point didnt work ,soon sort that out.(probably just a loose wire)

fitted on the drawer runners.

pulled out and tilted.

The birds nest of wiring.

Ive made a start on the control panel, not wired yet but thats the next thing I'm going to do.

Cheap and cheerful, nothing fancy, made the box myself out of scraps of wood i already had, used a lid off an old plastic storage box cut to size, a couple of door hinges from an old door.

I used a strip of wallpaper with the track layout marked on it using highlight pens, fitted the plastic lid then drilled the holes for the switches.

The switches and the wiring are the only things ive had to buy to make the control panel.

When fitted to the layout it will be on extended draw runners so it can be closed when not in use, when extended ive also made it to tilt at an angle for ease of use.

You could call it KOMODO JUNCTON (as in Komodo dragon)

No problem Graham. I fully understand where you are coming from as a fellow 'sparkie'. We are both qualified to open mains cabinets and stick out hands inside, be it single phase or three phase, but some members of this forum aren't. I just didn't want unqualified members of this forum who might be reading this, and in the process of building a panel, to under-estimate the dangers of working with mains power.

I understand basics about the INVISIBLE DEATH but i dont mess with it if i can help it, 12 volt is bad enough when it sparks.

My only dealings with the mains on my layout is plugging the socket in.

What is intelligent logic regarding the led's

OH MY GOD, you've scared the do do out of me, I was just about ready to make the control panel now that ive nearly finished the layout wiring.

After looking at your control box ive had to have a rethink on whether mine is gonna be big enough with what ive got to do and the possibility of adding led's later.

My brain is hurting with all the info . I am now starting to get the items needed for the control panel, I dont think i will bother with led's for the moment, they can be added later if i think i need them.

I have ordered the on/off/on switches and the CDU, and a 16 volt plug in power adapter.

Regarding the power adapter, is there some kind of socket or similar i can buy to plug it into that i can fit at the back of the control panel rather than cutting the end off and fitting to a terminal block which is a bit permanent and not as portable . EDIT, think ive just found on this forum what I'm after, D CONNECTORS.

I am going to make the control panel with a perspex top, one of my friends makes car decals and he said give him a plan/drawing of what i need and he will make a stick on vinyl cover for the perspex top, i can then make the holes to fit the switches. i think that will work .

I have noticed that some panels have led lights to let you know the points are switched, if the switch and the points are not continuously powered how do you get the led lights to stay on.

I can understand the switch turning it on ,but wouldn't it go off when the toggle switch goes back to the off position, am i being thick ,or am i missing the obvious answer.

There are mention of toggle switches and momentary buttons, as a complete moron, can anyone suggest which might suit a beginner like me. and if possible a link to where to buy.

There is also mention of 16 to 24 volt supply, something like a phone charger or similar.

Wow, information overload on your website, i clicked on to the appropriate section and I'm sure my next door neighbours heard me swear.

quick question before i book a day off work to read it all, do i only need one capacitor for all the motors.

Just seen this thread ,brilliant, i have just started my first layout ,not even got all the track i need yet i am going straight into dcc ,got a gaugemaster prodigy control, but i like the thought of switching the points myself rather than pushing buttons on the controller, i have probably got a dozen points to fit and i have the peco points motors, the question is how do i control each motor from the switch on the panel, what goes inbetween the switch and the point to allow me to do this. I know it need a burst of power for a short period of time to switch the points.

Sorry for the dumb question.