HOTTODDY

Quite so, but if the bogies are not operating correctly, then they will find somewhere to derail, even if your track is "plate glass" level. 99.99% of layouts are made of wood and that stuff will move, due to temperature and humidity. The very finescale modellers (P4 et al) have very good accurate track, BUT they also have compensation 'cos scale flanges demand it. So, it's not just one thing to look at. A process of elimination should eventually solve the problem. My own problem was the bogie pivot that was too tight, even with the screw removed. .I carefully filed off its offending swollen end (?) and hey presto, job's a good 'un. The very fact that neither the loco nor the six coaches hanging on the back of the Dynamometer car derailed. I had a pretty good idea of where look first and as others on this forum had experienced a derailment issue with this vehicle, I used that info, which I'm very grateful for and sorted mine. I'm old, tired and it's way past my bedtime. The nurses have locked the door and put the lights out.....................................................! Nitey nite, Tod

These "pizza cutter) wheels are, in my opinion, are unnecessary even for code 100 track. They certainly won't like code 75 and they would spoil the overall look. Your choice entirely I suppose. Tod

I refer you to my post No. 803 above. Loosening the screw is not the only solution. Check to see if the bogies will tip fore and aft as well as laterally (just like the real bogies do).This compensation allows for them to ride the variations in the track. The "play" must not be excessive, otherwise the body will wobble, but do have a look at the ends of the pivot posts to ensure they have not been spread as in my example, possibly at the hands of the same gorilla!! The little tweak performed on mine has cured it and it now runs nicely as it should. At the risk of being big headed, I can draw on a technical career covering a big chunk of my 72 years, so I have the confidence and knowhow to solve all sorts of problems. I'm more than happy to share AND learn new things along the way. Happy modelling folks Tod

My V1 arrived on Friday and on test it derailed at a junction about every third time round the circuit. It was running with four teaks in tow and nothing else was misbehaving. Having seen the comments about the bogie swivel being suspect I found that one bogie was not flexing fore and aft, despite loosening the screw. I removed the bogie to discover that the bearing post had been spread.This looked like the screw had been forced into an undersized hole. Being plastic it had spread just at the end of the post. A close inspection revealed hairline cracks across the end and about a millimeter. So what do I do, send it back, or apply some engineering thoughts to the problem? I chose the latter and carefully filed off the swollen end of the post, just at it's tip, in line with the diameter. I had to be very careful as the post has a key moulded to it which acts as a limiter to the bogie swivel. All very complicated, but spoilt by some heavy handed gorilla forcing a screw into an important part without drilling a pilot hole!!!! This model is hailed as the best model ever, superb in every detail that warrants it's £125 price tag. Well as I'm not the only customer to experience a model that falls off the track, the QA/QC department lets it all down yet again!! I am pleased to report however, my relatively simple fix cured the problem and it ran happily with 6 teaks hanging on the back. So my advice to you all that intend to run the model instead of it looking pretty in showcase, check that the bogies swivel in all the planes that it should. If it doesn't, SEND IT BACK!! If they don't know how to fix it, they can always ask me, BUT that shouldn't be necessary, should it? I'm just a customer, forking out my hard earned cash for something really special and it turns out not to be, sadly. Such a tiny component has let it down, so I hope that Rails will let Rapido know that not all their customers are happy ones and why. I rest my case. Tod

Please PM me if you still have the single chimney that can be reused. I have a n A4 waiting conversion from the double version. Thanks Tod

Thank you, that's exactly what I needed to know. Tod

I know this off piste a lot, but collectors of Oxford diecast collect their aircraft too. They produce many different types suitable to compliment railway scenes. Sooo...... my question is, do all the aircraft shown in flying mode on stands have drop down undercarriage, so they can be posed on the deck? Some pictures do show the wheels down, the Anson and Walrus, for example, but I can't assume that all the others can drop their wheels. When on their stands though, it would be nice to see a clear disc to simulate the prop/s actually turning! I have seen that done on exhibition layouts when posed on almost invisible thread. We have two Spits "flying" over "Rowlands Castle" layout that I help run and maintain. Their props were modified by Peter Goss the previous builder/owner and look the part, receiving many nice comments (as does the whole layout) especially hearing the soundtrack Peter provided and the occasional flypast of the Goodwood Spitfire as it zooms over Stansted Park, West Sussex. Lovely stuff that Merlin sound...................! So please, anyone, do they drop or not, that is the question? Tod

Thanks for your input. I had intended to use cable from a redundant extension lead for a 00 single line to spiral round the loft space to a fiddle yard underneath the main layout. Radial wires can't be used, so the bus will have to follow either under or alongside the track, as its hidden from view anyway. I have a confession to make in that the layout is DC and recent hot weather caused interruptions somewhere, (a dodgy rail joint or two very likely), so I thought best to ask the experts that use bus wire and droppers that give continuity. I believe the principal is the same, but the amperage is lower, but appreciate current loss is relevant over a long distance.

Hi folks, Could someone tell me what kind/amperage wire is needed for about 40 metre run of track please? e.g. solid or multi-strand and cross-section to give minimum power loss. Thanks, Tod

I have used spuds since they appeared on the market in my trams, railcars etc. even reguaging with 2mm steel rod, but still using the plastic gears. The latter has caused problems, but as previously said, they are replaceable. I found the issue to be that the gear is forced over the knurled area on the axles causing them to split. I remove the wheelset, press off one wheel, spin up the axle in a mini-drill and remove the burrs with a small file. That sounds a lot but its very quick. Replace the new gear on the centre of the axle, secured with a spot of superglue, replace wheel and wheelset. Job done. Having said all that, it would be very helpful to us all if Tenshodo had supplied BRASS skew wound gears in the first place!! OH and the control of speed issue, is either the weight addition as also previously said, or fit a resistor. Happy modelling Tod

Fell into the trap again!!!.The10th A4 and very likely the last(?) "Quicksilver" has arrived on shed. Superb runner and looks, but I'm running out of stabling sidings now, but I must leave a little space for the forthcoming N7................. Tod.

Thank you all for the link to the article, That was very kind. Thanks to Kevnims for finding my original post. I did search for it before my new posting, but I couldn't remember how far back I had to go. All I have to do is find a copy of said article......? Anyone got it, to scan and email it to me please? Thanks again Tod

I have asked this question before and I was kindly given an answer, but I have mislaid it. Very annoying, but at my age it happens quite often! Anyway, the articles I refer to were about readers ideas and designs, featured over several issues, in the 80s and 90s (I think!!!?). In particular, the one I would like to see again, is one which used an upturned record deck, which acted as a flywheel and modified with indexing slots around the rim. If anyone can tell me which magazine it was in, I would be most grateful and promise to write it down in a safe place , so that I can find it again!!. Thank you all for your patience and tolerance, Tod

I must admit I didn't study the panelling as much as I should, but no obvious horrors like the latest Hornby offerings were seen. It looked like teak to me and using teak was part of my professional life. As with many types of wood, the textures and grain varied considerably due to age, weathering, varnish used etc. Even the one in the NRM may be a different finish to when it was made. I wish I had photographed it though. Tod

I saw it at Ally Pally on Saturday. The body and underframe/ interior were separated. The detail is fabulous complete with the loo perfectly formed!!. Coiled springs poking out of the top of the cupboard presumably are for the lighting circuit. Although it wasn't sitting on track, the recording wheel looked as it will be quite close to railhead. In all I was very impressed. I am very tempted now that I have seen it. Tod

Many thanks for the upate. I knew Chris was ill, but not aware he had passed. My condolences to his family. I will contact SEF to see if one can be supplied. Thanks again Tod

I have been searching for a suitable casting to replace a damaged one on my A4. Awhile ago I found a link to Perserverance Products catalogue number, E066. Try as I might, I can not locate them to ask if it is still available,or indeed any other supplier of A4 chimneys. If anyone can point me in the right direction, I would be most grateful? Thanks Tod

Do you know which likely candidates are at Bo'ness? You could be starting something here. Intriguing! Tod

How about Clayton or Sentinel Steam railcars, Tyneside articulated electric stock or the early diesel railcars? Lots of scope there for something different, methinks. Tod

There's a lot to be said for the 50 foot rule! Sometimes I apply it on my own stuff, but if it is for someone else, I get a bit more serious. I'm still not a rivet counter though.......... Tod

Absolutely, but the frames curved shapes and the valve cover can be carved off and the reversing rod easily changed Depending on how much you will compromise on absolute accuracy, a reasonable representation can be achieved. With care the paintwork should survive these modifications especially the rebranding. I've used neutral T-cut on a black D16, backdating it to LNER black, unlined livery, which turned out better than I thought it would. Happy days and happy modelling, Tod

My RCTS book 3C figure 52 shows it in lined LNER green dated 1950, with early crest on the tender and 62614 on the cabside. Looking at the table at the end of the chapter shows it was part three from 1939 after it was damaged in a derailment, as 8783, so no mechanical alterations after then noted. Hope that is helpful, but please ask anymore questions if required and I'll try to research the detail for you. Tod

I had a TTS P2 in which the sound unit was damaged. I opted for an A4 replacement TTS chip and it is fine. Research of the two type of loco found they both had the same chime whistle. As regards other sound effects where there may be differences, it wasn't a concern. It all depends on how you feel about it and if you can get a soundtrack of both locos to compare.That may not be so easy, A4, yes, but the P2, not so sure. Good luck with the project, Tod

Hear Hear! I was wondering if the lack of tumlehome would get mention. You beat me to it. Kirk kits and other makers could produce good tumblehome as Hornby themselves could do it with their old model short types, also as mentioned, the current suburban stock. I've said before about Hornby's QA/QC department, they don't know or care about their subject in enough detail. Pre-production, PAINTED samples should be vetted by an expert who knows the subject and I know a chap who makes and paints superb examples, don't I Roy? I doubt if Hornby could get anywhere near your standard mate! Even so, Hornby should make a better effort for the price they intend to charge. Tod

How about a train ferry vessel in 4mm scale? Oh yes please! It might not fit in my Smart For 2 though 'cos it would have to be rather big to carry at least two 4-car rakes to make a reasonable train. A radio controlled canoe or punt might suffice!!!? Tod