saddler

On 17/04/2021 at 14:24, Torper said:

 

I haven't seen you report back.  Did it work?

 

DT

The answer is yes and no, after finding that Lais decoders don't work with the Hornby Select I abandoned the plan. However Gaugemaster's DCC 90 has a keep-alive socket, so I used one of those.....and Bob's yer uncle as they say. Like a new loco !!

As a PS I tried changing the diodes on the knackered Hornby decoders, but no joy I'm afraid.(weirdly they program up on Sprog though)

So no Lais testing till:

1)new controller comes thr inough (on back order at Hattons(probably on Suez canal)

2) new kitchen gets fitted ( a side distraction By SWMBO I know)

All the Best

Nige

On 22/03/2021 at 11:12, RAF96 said:

 

Strathpeffer shows two ways of connecting a stay alive to a Hornby decoder, via the diode pads or via more easily accessible pads at the sides of the decoder. See his site for details.

Unfortunately, not for the R8249, just the TTS decoder.

II've just bought two decoders from Lais DCC they have the leads for KA already attached. Will try one with that Warship next week. Will report back.

As a PS to this post I've splashed out on a Sprog programmer and have changed the CV29 values. Might give it another go now.

I wonder if anyone makes a decoder with a negative connection pad to solder to?

Yes Trevora,

Thanks, but I'd need the long 'tie rod' piece also, unless I used some plasticard for that. Hmmm.

I'm currently upgrading two Hornby 57xx Panniers,( the centre drive models). I'm looking for some after market brake gear but can't seem to find any. 

Short of 3d printing some, which may overextend my CAD skills, 

does anybody know a source for these?

This is my effort, worked well on the Mainline Warship till it gave up. Cap is 4700uF, diode 1N4007 and 100r resistor.

Incidentally I was quite chuffed when I managed to replace the traction tyres with heat shrink. Not had chance to try it yet.

I think I'm resigned to either writing the loco off or adding pickups to the other(motor) bogie.(although it should be traction tyred.

Or maybe get a controller that does CV's and try a decoder that's more KA friendly.

The joys of RM eh

1 hour ago, RAF96 said:

If your Select is v1.5 or below (startup screen shows <15-30-03)  you can have it updated by return to works Hornby for £15, then you will be able to write to CVs. Call them for a returns number before sending.

Could be difficult as I've hard wired it with a switch when the power plug went faulty, they probably wouldn't touch it. Good call though.

1 hour ago, RAF96 said:

 

8 hours ago, Izzy said:

Turning off DC running. Not sure whether you can write cv's with a Hornby Select, but if the loco uses a short address just write cv29 with a value of 2, or if it's a long address 34. Full details on cv29 here:  http://www.2mm.org.uk/articles/cv29 calculator.htm

Hi Izzy,

I'm pretty certain you cannot write cv's with a Hornby Select, however there is a section in the manual about 'switching  analogue mode on/off' which might be the same thing?

Also today I noticed a loco on a siding which was there when I set up the KA loco. It's ok after being re-allocated. Can't see that blowing the decoders up though( I retried them today with no joy). 

I loathe to risk any more decoders till I have more information.

Cheers.

Thanks Izzy, 

I've been using a 4700uf cap with a 1N4001 diode and 100ohm resistor.

I don't believe I can turn off DC (I think) as I've only got a Hornby Select.

Ps: I not sure what POM is? What's bugging me is the fact that it initially worked in both cases.

I'm not sure if I can bump the post to the DCC section.

Cheers

Nigel

Hi Folks,

This is my first actual post and is a plea for some knowledge, or maybe a warning to others.

I recently tried to 'improve'   Mainline class 42 by adding a generic home made keep-alive. After finally identifying the negative connection to solder to I gave it a try with a Hornby R8249 decoder. It worked well and I gave it a quick 'body-off' test run, vastly superior to before. Cue cheers and champagne etc.

However when I retried it later the thing was dead. I suspected I may have shorted something when retrieving it from the track. (I tried the decoder after on a test bed..it's knackered).

Trying to be positive this weekend I tried again(more carefully) with another decoder. All was well till I gave it a retry before buttoning it up, dead again. I suspect decoder blown also. This is getting to be expensive. Any clues as to why this is happening anyone?