tanj666

I've done the Terriers, easy peasy really. I cannot do the 14xx or 57xx though. I can't see how to get into the coupling pockets at all. I can remove the bodywork but then the pockets are still hideen by more chassis 'stuff' (technical term, I am qualified to use it). I even wasted my time asking Dapol of they had such useful things as service sheets that explained what goes where and which scresw hold it down. If anyone knows which screws to remove to get at the couplings I'd really appreciate it. Cheers Anthony

And that little line that I almost missed was my greatest help, wish I'd thought of that bending idea when I was doing the wagons too.

I created a jig to 'manufacture' the couplings, but a very (aka idiot) simple variety. Getting the height of things correct hasn't been an issue so far thankfully, I made some more simple measuring gauges with my 3d printer for that. I like the idea of the slope for the height of the dropper though. I also created a simple hole guide/jig on the 3d printer to make sure I manage to put the electromagnets in the centre of the track. Cheers

Well, I'm using hot-melt glue to fix the couplings with no springs so far, easier to remove and replace than superglue or epoxy. Appreciate that mention of just dangling the iron wire instead of putting it at 90 degrees, thats very useful advice indeed. I'd really not though of that, I thought I might have to part ways with the Class 5 without that handy hint. Cheers

PS Oh, I did check the forums first, the best topic was huge and most very old. I found someone blog which was really helpful on the aspects of building the dinghams and making them work, but I thought as I was after advice about locos a new topic was in order.

All, I'm happily taking my time to build an O gauge version of Newhamd Goods Depot (Truro, Cornwall) based on the track plans I found for about 1901. I've compromised a lot on the pointwork due to what I had available, space and what I could buy. It's basically a shunting layout to play on. Nuff on that bit. A few years ago I decided that Dingham sutocouplers would be a good idea so I bought enough for all my wagons (20 of them) and my locos (currently 13 of these). I also bought loads of elctromagnets. Finally, as it's so cold in the loft this winter I have bitten the bullet and started the conversion process. I did the wagons, a mix of Dapol, Skytrex and Minerva (a two kit built). The first ones were tricky but eventually I did them all. Now I'm doing the locos. A mix of RTR's again, mostly Dapol Terriers, other Dapol things (57xx, 14xx, Sentinels), An Ixion Fowler DM and a Heljan Class 5 diesel. Strange mix, but the rolling stock is definately for a Type 1 layout - I'll run what I like). So, the search for advice... I've done the Sentinels (easy, relatively speaking, after the wagon experience). But now I'm looking in dread at the rest of the locos. Does anyone have any sagacious words for fitting Dinghams to the locos before I get stuck in? All my locos are DCC and apart from the Ixion Fowler all have Sound. Cheers Anthony

Hi, A little late to reply on this I suspect, the connectors used by Kato are very similar to mini-Tamiya (sometimes called Airsoft) types, but sadly not identical. What I've always done is to sacrifice a Kato cable where I need to put my own in and put a mini-tamiya on the end then I can use my own cabling all the way until I need to convert back to Kato. One Kato cable can supply both a male and female end for such extensions. This is fine for most of my usage, especially on N Gauge layouts where I use a low power feed on DCC (such a NCE Powercab uses). If you're using a larger amount of power in O or OO gauges there is a possibility they can fail to handle the power and they can fail horribly (never happened to me on a 10 amp DCC system yet, but the possibility does exist). Hope that helps a little.

I went to the peterborough show last weekend and saw BCB. It's an amzingly well built layout. The scenery was wonderful and the muted tones of that background ... Well done to all who made this very special layout. best in show IMHO. Anthony

Hi Cov Guard, Well, we have one of our biggest layouts, Gosford Green, allocated for Diesels/Electrics. Only Trowbridge is GWR steam (but up to BR steam as it's day progresses). The N gauge layout allows a mix of GWR & LMS steam up to modern diesels. Anderby Creek (not based on the real place, but that's a smashing, different and long story). Stuart is still with us as is Kevin Price (our chair person), Sadly in my two years at the club, I've not heard of Steve Jones. You would be welcome to pop in on a club night I'm sure. Tuesday and Thursday, 7.00pm to 10.30pm. Cheers Anthony

HI, Thanks for that info Geoff. Wow, that is one meaty fine connector! It carries a lot more than my simple requirements but it's certainly worth bearing in mind should things grow. Cheers Anthony

Hi, Mini-Tamiya connectors are simple male/female paired connectors that cannot be swapped over when joining things as they only go in one way round (preserves the polarity of the bus), they are just a smaller version of most people will see in radio controlled vehicle battery connectors. Unlike the multi-pin connectors (like 9/25-pin RS232 or 15-pin VGA) type D-Sub, they are designed to be joined/parted multiple times in a day as they use connectors that are about 4x the cross sectional area of the pins in D-Sub. For two bus systems (points and track power) it's a simple job to connect to the right bus them as they are big enough to write something on. I found a wiki entry here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tamiya_connector It shows the big brother version, but the mini is identical in looks. Key points are - strong, safe and high current capacity. If you worry about that strength, which wont part easily when you drop a board a few too many inches trying to join them, simply cut off the tang on the top. Cheers Anthony

Hi, I love this layout (despite it not being my era/scene) so far, might have to go to Peterborough to see it completed and in real life at this rate. Daft question possibly, but as I'm about to build a real multi-board layout myself I'm very interested in how the DCC bus is connected between boards? I was thinking of using a type of connector called a mini-Tamiya type (male/female plugs where the connectors are hidden inside and make safe connections) so as to keep the buses intact (one for track and one for point control on separate circuits). These would simply plug the bus ends together. Any other/better suggestions appreciated of course. Cheers, Anthony

Hi, Just to make sure folks are aware of our existence... Coventry Model Railway Club Unit 3 Coventry Canal Warehouse Leicester Row Coventry CV1 4LH We have a website: http:\\coventrymodelrailwayclub.org.uk We are a small, friendly club who have our own clubroom located just outside the inner ringroad in Coventry, just off Foleshill Road. We are always happy to meet potential new members. We currently have 3 OO gauge layouts and 1 N gauge layout, though a new N gauge is being planned and built, more details can be found on our website of course. Two of our layouts, 1 OO gauge and 1 N gauge are available for exhibitions, details of who to contact are on our website again. Regards Anthony.