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d00m

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Posts posted by d00m

  1. I'm running quite a few sets of '38 stock (Tenshodo powered not the new efe rail version).

    Since I embarked on this madness I've been puzzling how to remotely join a 4 car set to a 3 car set without the hand of God...

    Success today.  Bit of trouble making sure that the 'whisker' was above juice rail but Dapol N gauge magnetic couplers fitted, tested and working.

    I even powered two units pulling away from each other - couplings are good!

    only down side is they are really small to fit.

  2. Bachmann 2 EPB is quite a nice model IMHO.  But I would like to represent a 4 EPB. Does anyone have any tips on rtr trailers for the unit or suitable coaches to convert to trailers?

    I don't want to start modifying if there is something out there to just drop in.

     

    Thanks

    Dom.

  3. The old Hornby Ringfield motor was very similar to the lima pancakes in performance IMHO. With correct weighting, removal of horrible traction tyres (which involved new wheelsets) and attention to correct back-to-backs, I was able to get a 7 car around the club layout back in the day - but only pulling. Oh and the bogies on the MK3 coaches were heavily modified with brass bearings.

    Any decent modern diesel chassis with a central motor, drive shafts and a flywheels could be used as a doner and would definitely be a better option, especially if you are DCC.

    Good luck. I look forward to your posts!

    • Informative/Useful 1
  4. 42 minutes ago, latestarter said:

    Just another quick question about weathering rails please...Will I need to clean the acrylic paint off areas where I will solder drop wires for the bus wiring?

    Thanks again,

     

    Stephen

    Yes. If you carefully clean the area to be soldered with emery paper, the solder will flow better and quicker (avoiding melting the plastic) and you should get a strong, lasting electrical bond. When done, just touch up the solder joint with paint.

    • Like 1
  5. 2 hours ago, BenNewland said:

    Hi All,

    I have a strange request. Does anyone have a front end of a Hornby/triang 3F "jinty" hanging around that they don't need?

     

    I'm halfway through bashing one into a freelance Johnson looking loco backdated to having a round firebox etc. I tried "gently" warming the loco with an air gun to straighten the footplate. All was going really well, when I did "one last adjustment", and the loco melted.

     

    Really gutted. I do want to attack it again, but I had already spent ages on the new cab, hence why asking for the front end.

     

    You're the only bunch crazy enough to have a front end  (front 1/3rd) of a loco hanging around in a box somewhere.

     

    Of course I would pay postage etc.

     

    Thanks in advance.

    Ben

    If I still Have one, it doesn't have a chimney and probably missing steps and buffers. I can't get to it until Wednesday, but if you want I'll look and PM you.

    Dom

  6. 21 hours ago, DaveF said:

    Two Terriers were sold to the Weston Clevedon and Portishead Railway.  They ended up being owned by the GWR.

     

    David

    I Stand corrected! Do you have any more info?

     

  7. 1161705092_WheelSpring.jpg.bdf5c63b06aee0b0c62ce0bc9b4b7799.jpg

    22 hours ago, Sir TophamHatt said:

    I ordered some 2mm springs, which from the DCC Concepts page, suggests they're good for OO gauge.

    Ordered mine from Coastal DCC - superb service every time!

     

    Not sure what this measurement refers to though.

    That'll be the axle size. Hand winding 0.3mm brass wire on to axles is dead easy and saves having to take insulated wheel off to get springs on. Also, as you are making them yourself, you can leave a longer 'tail' on the spring...

    • Like 1
  8. 15 hours ago, Lord of Narnia said:

    Yes I’ve tried. You need to drill through the axle box from the outside to get the bearings in at the correct angle. Then I’ve had to cut the bogie head stocks to bend the frame enough to get the wheel sets in! Not tried it out on the track yet but generally that is my approach.

     

    Also got some 38ts and 59/62ts bogies 3D printed and they seem to run well.

    Thanks. I'll give it a go on a spare ndm. just need to remove the shoe gear first...

     

  9. That chassis looks amazing! Hadn't thought of using it like that on locos... it may be time for me to look at some troublesome pickups on one of my 14xx.

    I was looking at coach lighting and the springs DCC concepts sell - low friction axle pickups - hand winding onto an axle is remarkably easy and extremely effective, but I will try 0.3mm on the next set.

     

  10. I have a lot of efe '38 stock that I haven't got around to re wheeling. I have almost all the 10.5mm wheelsets I need and have about half the number of metro models bogies I need. Has anyone tried to use the original efe bogies as they are, fitting top hat Barings into them? 

  11. 2 hours ago, kevinlms said:

    That 'model railway' seller on eBay, has almost certainly made the assumption that the supply is going to be a regulated 12 Volts DC and the supplied resistors are likely to be around 1000 ohms or 1k. If that is what's being used, then there will be no issues.

     

    Problems arise when people dig old power supplies/controllers/unmarked equipment out of junk boxes. These voltages could be anything.

    I have two boxes, one is 'unspecified' and has random transformers, both open frame and 'unreadable' sealed units, the other has old chargers and power supplies from long gone equipment.

    Personally I wouldn't dream of using any of them without first testing their output.

    For multiple LED's it is just as important for a supply to deliver enough current (milliamps).

     

  12. 23 hours ago, Engineer said:

    Now found my old notes and various documents.  From these, the Metro-Cammell 1956 Stock train numbering from mid-1960s was:

     

    [A End]  1000-2000-9001-1001+1002-2002-1003  [D End]

    Formation:  DM-T-NDM-DM+DM-T-DM

     

    Worth checking other sources on the detail:  Full autocouplers fitted to the outer A End and D End DMs from mid-1960s for compatibility with 1959 Stock.  Also, 1956 DMs will have a 5-aperture marker light array on the lower offside cab front, modified to incorporate a red stabling light from the 1970s.

     

     

    Thanks for that. I posted this elsewhere and got a comprehensive list from Brian Hardy. Still wading through photos...

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