stevel

I tried a dry PTFE spray, but didn't notice any difference, could still hear the twang of the print lifting from the FEP.

14 hours ago, Schooner said:

 

When, sorry? Is this our dinner reservation?!

 

The useful bits from the 1877-8 surveys are here (overview) and here (throat detail). 

 

Any model of mine would be focused on the terminal and the dock network, making use of the real change in elevation (significant) but probably messing with alignment. The 'nice to have's being a scenic run, a nod to Truro as junction, and the 'would like' would be Penryn, which used to have a more interesting kickback layout, if not operation, than nowadays.

 

:)

Penryn is the station I intend to build, with the Brunel viaduct on the approach, once I have the space. 

Stephen 

1 hour ago, MAP66 said:

You are absolutely correct and have not misunderstood, many thanks for pointing this out. This is what happens when I try and think ahead, without engaging my brain first. Since posting, I had worked out that it would be necessary to cut a slot or remove some material from the sand boxes (as you suggested). That's where I'm at now and am working on the best tool for the job. The sand boxes are cast brass and will present a challenge to work on but I think I should be able to work something out 🤪 There's a problem at the rear end as well but I think I can drill through the chassis to allow the buffer pin to move inwards when the buffer is depressed.

Would drilling from the outside work, maybe starting with a smaller size drill and then enlarging the hole.

These little details are the making of a great model. The only way I see to bend the hooks, is to do them oversized and cut the excess off.

Stephen 

So I've made a little more progress on the saddle tank project, managed to score a later version of the Bachmann pannier, for a good price, and it arrived while on vacation.

   Reprinted the body with some modifications to clear the chassis. The chassis needed 2mm removed from the front of the chassis brake carrier, to get the wheels in the right location, relative to the splashers. The front sand boxes needed removing with a fine saw, as they are not needed. Now there are some minor drawing mods to do, including a way to attach the body to the chassis.

There's something special about a model photographed in sunlight. Love the grain effect.

I had  a similar issue, mostly resolved by making sure the Z axis threaded rod, was well greased. 

Stephen 

On 12/02/2024 at 12:45, Mikkel said:

It looks great, I'm impressed with the bunker handrails. It's a favourite class of mine, so am following with much interest.

 

 

Can I ask which of the Bachmann chassis you are aiming for? There have been various variants for the 57xx/8750s over the years, including the older one on the left, and the newer one on the right. I used the latter under my 1854 ST.

 

 

managed to snag the later version on Ebay, and it's just arrived in the post. Now to find time to get the print perfected and mounted on this chassis. Will need to remove the Backhead and replace with a roundtop boiler version.

Stephen

2 hours ago, Philou said:

Oh quelle frustration! Rivets didn't happen as I wanted to give a coating of grey to the bridge girders, as the rivets are white I thought it be easier to see them. That was the start of my frustration. First, clear my 'workbench', then find my compressors. These I found fairly easily. Then locate the airbrushes. I have several - one is a Badger glass bottle type that came with the one compressor and two 'proper' air brushes that I have never yet used - a Hansa and an Iwata. Finally located them in an unmarked box.

 

I didn't want to use the bottle one as it can't be used other that horizontally due to the way the paint is sucked up - and that's when the fun started - despite having many different thread adapters I don't appear to have anything to match the metric threads of the Hansa (surprising as it's German) and the Iwata. And if I use them I need to put in an in-line pressure reducer which I have, but no thread adapter either, as the two compressors deliver too much - so all a bit hey ho.

 

I worked off my frustration by giving a quick wash of colour over the bridge girders with a paintbrush - but it's not the same :/ .

 

I'll try again tomorrow - even if I end up brush painting the sides.

 

Nil desperandum and more tomorrow,

 

Cheers,

 

Philip

 

 

I believe that Badger uses a different connection to all the other brands of airbrushes, threw mine out when I couldn't find adapter's, and bought a new one.

Falmouth 

I would suggest printing upside down at 145 degrees on the long axis, that way the support attachments are inside the wagon body, and along the top edge. This angle allows you to use less supports, and leaves the delicate items below the solebar to form with minimal support needed.

17 hours ago, lezz01 said:

Err vacuuming flock for reuse 101.

First steal a stocking from Mrs Philou, second roll it up so you have around half a foot left unrolled stick this in the vacuum and fix it to the nozzle with an elastic band. Turn on vac and suck up the flock into the stocking. Turn of vac and remove the stocking from the nozzle and empty the stocking into a receptacle ready for reuse. Wash stocking and replace it in the appropriate draw, with luck and a following wind she'll never know.

Simples.

Here endeth the lesson....no charge.

Regards Lez.

Would be easier to buy your own stockings, no one would bat an eye nowadays. 😂

7 hours ago, drduncan said:

A broad gauge ballast spreader to take some of the ballasting pain away following the less than successful use of wood ash.

 

Duncan

Very neat spreader 👍

9 hours ago, brylonscamel said:

"Sunset mistaken for a dawn"

 

A long view of the quayside on the harbour at Braeside ..

 

Love the moody sky.

30 minutes ago, Sasquatch said:

Don'tcha just love crawl spaces. Black widow spiders, rodent droppings and scorpions hiding in every crevice. Ya can't run either, it takes a certain breed or some kind of madness to go down there...! Sometimes ya just gotta man up and get on with the job and it's always something like a blocked sewer pipe of wiring where you have to cut the power and face the job on your back with a dodgy flashlight.

 

  

Fortunately it is 4ft high from the rough floor to the underside of the joists, so you have to do the hunchback of Notre Dame, to get around, and the hwt is down there!!!

58 minutes ago, drduncan said:

The first batches I printed were with Siraya Fast Smokey black resin which when cured was a lot less Smokey than I had wanted - more very light atmospheric pollution rather than a diesel fed fire belching black plumes into the air.

 

Duncan

I had the same issue, made it impossible to see any details until primer was applied.

3 hours ago, Sasquatch said:

Here in Oregon every house seems to have that problem 😄

Same here, I have roots 4" plus in diameter in the crawl space,ready to trip you over, and crack your head on a beam. Tell me how I know 😂.

Wow, just discovered this thread and have enjoyed reading through it. I love the railway in the landscape feeling you have captured. Look forward to seeing the progress.

Stephen 

55 minutes ago, drduncan said:

Yes, I’d been thinking along similar lines. I intend to try printing windows in clear resin too, just to see what the results are like.

D

Look forward to seeing the results of clear prints, the other method I want to try is using microscope glass, making a slot inside to hold it in place.

I believe one other pair of E40's was used on the Falmouth branch, generally with a U29 sandwiched between them. I have a 3d designs started, but need to find time to finish them and get them printed.

8 hours ago, The Fatadder said:

 Question to anyone who's built the slip, what did you do for painting the moulded checkrails?  Not something I have had to do before, so looking to ensure that it doesnt stand out next to the rest of the point in real rail.

I have used AK-Interactive true metal for a good representation of steel, there other metal paints such as copper gunmetal etc, are excellent.

Stephen

52 minutes ago, bradfordbuffer said:

Hi rm web, just bought a second hand anycubic mono x 

It has come with 3 bottles of resin but passed there Best before date by 5 months am I best to dump or give it a try?

2 are sealed one is open.

G

I would give it a try using the open one, the sealed bottles should be okay to use.

8 hours ago, drduncan said:

A mixed result for todays efforts. The first track panel is glued down very successfully, but the ballast not so much…

 

 

Most of the ballast came up when the track was hoovered. So it will be a case of redoing with dry ballast and then adding dilute glue to it 🙁

On the plus side the broad gauge M2/L7 coach negotiated the point without the bogies jamming on the footboard.

Duncan

Duncan

have you tried using artists Matte medium diluted 2 parts water to 1 part, it is an excellent glue which stays flexible flows well and dries very clear and matt.

Stephen

Thanks for all the replies, it works perfectly.

Stephen

Just wondering, is the http://www.gwrcoaches.org.uk/ down at the moment, I get this notification when I try get on,

"Please stand by while configuration is in progress."