GWR_NZ

Osborn's do some dry stone walling in their Arch Laser range (2 and 4mm)

https://www.osbornsmodels.com/archn0200-arch-laser-flexible-cotswold-stone-walling--gate-pack---n-gauge-43315-p.asp

Not tried it - is on the list of things to purchase so have no idea of how good it is (or isn't). Someone else may be able to comment.

Edmund

Years ago I found this US site offering rivets (and other scale model hardware). While aimed at the model car modeller some may be suitable for model railways

https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/small-parts-hardware/rivets

Edmund

20 hours ago, kevinlms said:

I haven't used these for decades, but it sounds like the contacts are dirty or loose. Perhaps these can be unclipped and inspected and adjusted if required?

May try a new PL-26 that I have as the PL-26 I am using is recycled

Thanks.

21 hours ago, Free At Last said:

Are the two outputs of the PL-26 linked?

Yes they are linked.

Thanks

Hi,

I'm wiring a Dapol signal using a Peco PL-26 passing contact  switch but I find it unreliable - it doesn't always change position when the lever is thrown (I've also tried a push button and momentary switch which are more reliable). The PL-26 is recycled so cannot voucher for the condition of the switches internals. Can anyone comment on using the PL-26 with the Dapol signals and what has been their experience. 

Would prefer to use the PL-26 as it looks more prototypical but not if it is unreliable. The PL-26's that I use for switching points seem far more reliable. Is it possibly a dud switch?

Is this the trader ?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234398001509?hash=item369335a965:g:PJQAAOSwUzFhGqH0&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA0PK5jhVrZo35cKTmzgJqBeSsFHXj%2FhD2ysyj%2FAJiHcN8dr10mZFWHUSeu04dNUgKCi%2Bp7qziL0nu9MR7xIRMrUmNZUpNIU0jmxcaTeXpY71%2FoJiVz9Il8ZBQ9tBsc5Bm3%2BigEMDf0Q7zjH0izK33jrxgyGaz9s0BQuWUPIWjkrS9qukwaZum95M08wzTwCd3cYGKgF0vDdh0TErQve378LHIDGbjaqLFDv25n1YsSNrrh4OewL0X%2FYa5kPjokL6p8qzLNbD6T4HQ7dZIYRwCEZY%3D|tkp%3ABFBM9oXf2adh

Hi,

Consider the Bexhill West ballast vacuum system

James has several videos on the system he developed , including a link to a shop where he sells the system.

Usual disclaimer applies,,,,

I have recently had a very similar issue with no tracks volts with my SPROG. Firstly I made an assumption that there was track voltage all the time i now know that is not true. While Goggling for an answer I found this thread. This gave me a hint of what my be causing the fault. I checked preferences / default in Decoder Pro and while is said SPROG I suspect it was actually set to internal. Saved settings. Decoder Pro restarted and track power was restored. Running JMRI 4.22

Just an update to show the completed perspex fences.

After much procrastination and a bit of over engineering the perspex fences have been installed. I learnt that when scoring and bending to break the perspex it is best to clamp the perspex when bending between two solid (in my case a bit of 3"x 1" timber and aluminium L channel) bits of material to get a clean break.

The aluminium L channel needs to be painted to complete.

For my work bench I use one of these

https://daylightcompany.com/slimline-3-table-lamp/

Expensive yes - but very good. Very good light and I can now see what I am doing.

I also considered this model

https://daylightcompany.com/lumi-task-lamp/

Hi,

I have been experimenting bonding / glueing styrene to plywood. I tried using a spray adhesive ADOS Multi-purpose spray adhesive - soaked up by the plywood with no grip at all to the styrene. Second attempt used Selleys Liquid Nails - not sure if this is available in the UK. First attempt - bonded well to the ply but not the styrene. Second attempt roughed up the styrene with 60 grit sandpaper. Much better bond - now bond failure is with the plywood. Third attempt will be rough up both surfaces with 60 grit sandpaper and try again.

The question I have is has anyone used such adhesives and what was the long term bond like (or any better idea's?)

Thanks

Edmund

Hi,

Can someone please suggest a suitable decoder for a Bachmann Hall ( the original prototype version). There are plenty of web pages devoted to advising how to install a decoder and I understand how it should be installed. I've tried a Bachmann 36-553 and a Hattons 8 pin decoder - neither fit very well, if at all. I was looking at a Zimo MX622R.

Can anyone advise if this is a suitable decoder.

Thanks in advance.

Edmund

Thanks for all the comments. I've made a mock-up for the fences in card and also using 20mm by 12mm aluminium L shaped angel. The card is 40mm above the cork and I think is still to high. The aluminium angel looks much better but perhaps a little low. 30mm maybe about right.

Thanks

Edmund

12 hours ago, melmerby said:

Talking about pony trucks.

My Airfix derived Hornby 5154 also won't keep it's pony truck on the track, you can see it bouncing merrily as it crosses pointwork, diamonds etc. and tends to derail quite regularly, could really do with some downward force. I might try a light spring.

 

I trust both the new Hornby Prairie and Dapol's Prairie & 43XX to work better.

Consider using a bit of lead. Had a similar problem with the Bachmann 43xx and the front bogie - added a bit of lead improved performance considerably.

Edmund

Hi,

I'm looking a installing some Perspex fence's on parts of my layout to prevent the unfortunate consequence if a engine should de-rail and then proceed to fall to the floor. Has anyone got experience of how high the fence should be. I've mocked them up in card and 80mm seems to high. Was thinking more of 50mm. If to high there is a risk of snagging  myself or clothing on the corners as they are mainly for around a lift-up bridge section. 

Any thoughts ?

Thanks

Edmund

On 23/03/2019 at 06:41, ejstubbs said:

 

The question was: "why is none of the ballast between the sleepers being sucked up during the vacuuming process?"  To which the answer is: because the strength of the suction is tuned so as to only suck up the ballast above the sleepers.  The question was not: "why does none of the ballast that is sucked up go in to the vacuum?" in response to which reference to the capture jar would have been valid.

 

 

Always assuming that it does reliably pick up the ballast as selectively as the video seems to suggest.  I would have my doubts, but I'd definitely be interested to see your results if you do build one.

I would also like to see the results - I have been considering using this method since I found it on YouTube.

Hi,

I think I had this same issue - please read the posts under my thread - hopefully this is the same issue (with the same fix)

Edmund

I have used single sided copper PCB, packed with styrene so the copper surface is just beneath the rails. The PCB is screwed to the baseboard. The rail is soldered to the PCB with appropriate cuts for electrical connectivity. Admittedly this is on a lift up bridge so cosmetic issues are not the same. Alignment by barrel slide bolt.

Will depend mainly on the framing and most importantly where the baseboards are stored. If in a damp environment would advise against using MDF ( I use 9mm ply). Having said that part of my layout uses 18mm MDF (part of a lift up bridge) and it has been stable with no issues (touch wood).

No specific links or creators - I just search in Shapeways - which can be a bit hit and miss (read you get a lot of irrelevant products)

Shapeways has some bodyline kits depending on the company you wish to model. Never tried them myself (but do covert a few models).

I am getting to the point where I have to look at ballasting my layout. I too am procrastinating. Currently have Auhagen TT ballast as my preferred ballast (I like the idea of adding weathering powders - which shades do you use?).  As for a ballast spreader I'm looking at making a ballast vacuum

I'm hoping this will solve the problem of "stray" ballast on the sleepers. As for painting the track I've purchased Model Master Tie Brown and will paint the track before applying ballast and then weather. Now to stop procrastinating ( I'm currently testing the track to make sure it all works as expected).

Hi,

I have the double tunnel portal from the Hornby Skaledale range in red brick. While the brick colour is good the factory weathering less so.  Has anyone repainted Skaledale tunnel portals or brick wall and it so which products did you use.The main concern is losing the detail in a coat of paint.

Thanks.

Thanks Simon, I've saved that link.

 

Johnster, if I buy the missus a new cheese-grater, believe me - it'll raise a lot more questions than it answers! :-D

Then obviously don't buy a new cheese-grater for the missus, buy it for yourself  .

Thanks for the input from the both of you - you have given me something to think about.