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sml1983

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Posts posted by sml1983

  1. I've got some colour on Dominion House and fitted the windows in the central section. I think I might need to tweak the colours but without any colour reference photos I'm rather guessing the finished look. The stripes on the columns are correct and hand painted (no masking) but they should pass muster at the back of the layout:

     

    attachicon.gifDSC_5655.JPG

     

    G.

    Where's the amazing button

    • Like 1
  2. regarding the loco picture special effects; I liked the pastel and watercolour.  They'd make nice desktop backgrounds for a pc.  I've done the same with some other chaps pictures of loco's using his test plank.

  3. I think if I enjoyed building structures more than running trains I'd do what you're doing Jeff.  I envisage it as you would only really use one station as a station during the running session and the other would effectively become the fiddle yard.  It's not a two station layout, it's two station layouts.  I think that makes sense :angel: .  Is this how you intend it? If so go for it.  Whatever makes you happy :scratchhead:

    • Like 1
  4. Hi Ray, I have the Gaugemaster Prodigy for the OO Project, the Signa Tax was going to be built in, and dedicated to the O Gauge project to save keep swapping things over.

    Don't know if I missed it, but what's the price for it?

  5. I'm jealous, Jonathan. Haven't been on the S&C for about 6 years and have never done the full stretch.

     

    Derek - "play" at the moment would involve DAS and static grass. Still interested?

     

    I decided to build a 20cm section of fencing using cotton thread and matchsticks. In the past I'd simply wrap the cotton around the posts and hold it in place with a dab of nail varnish. I decided that wasn't good enough, so got the hand drill out, drilled some 0.9mm holes and spent a "while" (it took about an hour) threading the cotton through. It would be much quicker with a fine fishing line, but I had none to hand and I've always liked black cotton line for fences. Whether I'll make some more like this - well, yes - probably the 50cm section on the other side of the underbridge....

     

    The posts are around 20mm tall.

     

    attachicon.gifIMG_4553.JPG

     

    attachicon.gifIMG_4556.JPG

     

    Jeff

    Just an idea. Not sure whether it is meant to be intentional or not.  Would the wires have a little sag between the posts?  If yes have you thought of using some kind of former to add pressure to the thread whilst a coat of varnish or something similar applied to the line goes off, thus leaving prototypical sag?  Or is that considered a little ott?

    • Like 2
  6.  

     

    Superb stuff Tom

     

     

    What's a grimbal? Is it a technical term!!

     

    Jerry

    A gimbal is a pivoted support that allows the rotation of an object about a single axis. A set of three gimbals, one mounted on the other with orthogonal pivot axes, may be used to allow an object mounted on the innermost gimbal to remain independent of the rotation of its support (e.g. vertical in the first animation). For example, on a ship: the gyroscopes, shipboard compasses, stoves, and even drink holders typically use gimbals to keep them upright with respect to the horizon despite the ship's pitching and rolling.

     

    As taken from Wikipedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gimbal)

     

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Gyroscope_operation.gif

  7. 

    The only thing you may wish to consider is any signalling in these stretches may require representations of the wire run 'pulley stakes' (dunno if that's what they're called) if you're inclined to model these.

     These things

    post-17388-0-56268900-1489435133.jpg

     

    Just to make things clear....I am not in anyway suggesting you would want to represent the actual wire as anything you did would be well overscale but the naked eye would likely expect to see the stakes and would then 'fill in the blanks' for the wires

    • Like 1
  8. Evening Jim.

     

    I can get on with some ballasting next week - and I'm looking forward to it. There's a 6-7' section of double track from the tunnel portal into the station and a 3' section of the mainline at the over bridge end. Both these sections are well away from any point rodding, so progress can be made.

     

    I'll have a lot of garden-related work to sort in the next 3 weeks but hopefully may get the brass rodding gear ordered in for mid-April onwards.

     

    Jeff

    The only thing you may wish to consider is any signalling in these stretches may require representations of the wire run 'pulley stakes' (dunno if that's what they're called) if you're inclined to model these.

  9. perhaps you could post a track plan (a scale one would be best), and if you've got one a signal box diagram, and then we'll be able to give you a better idea.  Looking amazing Jeff btw

     

    Steve

    post-17388-0-51221000-1488524925_thumb.jpg

     

    Done the first bit for you.  Now all that's needed is for those clever fellas that know all about signal placement to add them to it :P

    • Like 1
  10. "Sml" - do we have a name?

     

    Anyway, many thanks for your comments. You're not the first to read the threads all the way through but I applaud you managing it. Not sure I could bear to read all of my own thread!

     

    I've been putting regular updates onto a layout thread for over 4 years now. It always seems odd if I go a few days without having anything to post. I also think it's really important to listen to what others have to say, especially the gang on here. It's always fun to think of ways to do things and not get too irritated if what you do doesn't always work.

     

    It's also funny how much time we spend building our layouts compared to the time spent running locos.

     

    Keep enjoying the thread and please post any ideas or suggestions you come up with.

     

    Jeff

    Ironically considering the following posts but I'm also a Steve too.  Although to be pedantic I'm a Stephen

  11. I've just spent almost a week reading this entire thread (sorry had to go to work during the days)  and I must say I am amazed at your layout.  I remember reading about the original KL in its infancy and can't quite work out why I stopped following it.

     

    I think you made the right decision moving to EM as, artistically speaking, it adds a realism to the layout that just couldn't be achieved otherwise.  I like how humble you are pertaining to your own skills and how you are open to 'constructive' criticism to further either your own knowledge and skill base or to improve the layout.  Your logical approach to some of the obstacles you needed to overcome have been illuminating but I must say that had I been reading right from the very beginning I believe I would have suggested the 'fell bridging section' about a month before you mentioned your dislike of that then blank area as I too thought it let down the layout.

     

    Regarding heating in the bunker.  Have you thought about having your radiator set on a timer with a thermostat also wired in as I have found this to be a very efficient way of keeping a near constant temperature.  The reason for an external thermostat (some, possibly most, oil filled radiators have a built in thermostat) is that this can be on the opposite side of your bunker thus being more accurate and ensuring the room is up to the correct temperature you require.  All you do is set the timer and temperature and turn all the little switches and knobs on the radiator to full.  Hey presto toasty room.

     

    Regarding the ratings.  Until getting to the discussion on them, I must say I rarely use them and that in all your 136 pages I haven't left one.  Do not think that this is due to thinking your work is substandard, everyone's humour is sub-par or that I believe you're all cretins :jester:.  It's simply I'm a lazy .  I follow many of your regular contributors layouts and must say how impressive they all are (and there's a lot of them when you think that includes Bodgit).  I only hope when I get round to finally building something 3D that it is even slightly as good as layouts made by the likes of yourself, Andy or Jason.

     

    All in all a great thread and interesting read.  Mark me as a follower.

    • Like 3
  12. just to add a touch more realism and set the location better...you may need to change the sides of the road the people are driving on or does it change 'up north'.  They're mighty strange up there :jester:

  13. That's also the great advantage of multiple layouts.  You can fulfil different criteria with each layout.  Below is another suggestion you could go with to utilize space but also allow easy access to the workbench and offers very different operational interest.  Of course they don't need to represent the same time periods or geography and some parts could utilize set-track whilst others could be hand built.  You can do as you please.  The carpentry doesn't have to be a headache.  You've got good solid walls you can attach to and what is a non-transportable layout if not a long wide shelf along one or more walls :declare:. Do not think of this as your last great project but as chapters in a book.  That noggin has far too much electrickery sparking to be happy with just one layout or project. :mail:

    All the best,

    Steve

    post-17388-0-00934800-1429207054_thumb.jpg

    • Like 3
  14. Glad to hear you've decided on a course of action that will make you happy.  I know I've learnt plenty from you, you've inspired many and entertained all.  I have a suggestion regarding your option 3.

    Could you make two scenic layouts either side that share a fiddle yard.  This would allow each board (scenic, fiddle and 2nd scenic) to be that bit longer.

    Also as another suggestion, have you thought about going modular.  Having lots of small boards that could be pieced together in multiple variations to add versatility and keep attention.  Of course there is always P4 :O Just my 5 pences worth.  These may well have already passed through your train of thought (pun intended). 

    Well done for the article and keep inspiring us all.

    On further thought perhaps you could lose the 4th layout  (box F) as this would possibly make access to the workbench slightly difficult unless of course said bench was moved to centre back instead?

    post-17388-0-95911500-1429163998_thumb.jpg

    • Like 3
  15. What about removable backscenes? You could have half relief buildings either side then a backscene for each side of the board which you would apply respective of where the layout is being displayed. 

     

    The home use backscene could be applied direct to the wall.

  16. Had a thought whilst reading your posts.  Would a simpler way to make the layout be to make 1 1/2 layouts at the same time. Basically make the scenic and fiddle yards as two separate concerns then have two different versions of each end pieces, one for at home and another for exhibition.

    post-17388-0-35167900-1382554159.jpg

    post-17388-0-54801800-1382554160.jpg

    Done this way would mean that you'd have better viewing at home, easier wiring and possibly more reliable running?

     

  17. Thanks Martin. That's pretty neat. Just had a play in templot and now that this has been pointed out to me, can't believe i didn't see this before. So if templot shows the given crossing as a fixed k, when its set to automatic, this means it shall run fine or is this not definate? Obviously it is dependant on build quality.

     

    By the way, i forget my manners. Gordon what an inspiration you are. Your trackwork is amazing and the fact you haven't given up yet even though we're onto mk iv (or is that v or vi? i lose count) is astounding. Thoroughly great post. Read all of it in a day and looking forward to the next post. (After mine that is lol)

    • Like 1
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