I've used Lincs in 7mm, for an exhibition Inglenook, designed for 'hands-on' use.
The controller was at the front and kids were encouraged to have a go at doing
the puzzle (it was named Havatry)
The Lincs were very good, with a couple of comments:-
Firstly, I had some of the steel wires detach, or start to rotate in the solder joint,
I got round this by scraping the wire with the back of a Stanley blade, to create
flats, like an old thrupenny bit.
Secondly, magnetism can be a problem, initially I kept the 3-link couplings, but I
should have converted to brass, eventually they start to interfere with operation.
Also, the actual Lincs need de-magnetising every now and then, otherwise they
don't uncouple properly.
But overall, they are a very good system, discreet, reliable, cheap, easy to fit and
set up, the only downside is the lack of delay, for shunting.
Although I haven't tried them on bogie stock yet.
I have just bought some Lincs AutoCouplers to try out. Currently using Bachmann TLC with the Brian Kirby system, which works well but I wanted something less obtrusive.
What was the actual problem re. the Lincs becoming magnetised and not uncoupling?
In the instructions for the Lincs it recommends that the track magnets should all have the same pole facing upwards, could this have been a factor?
Experimenting with Lin-Cups
in Highland in 2mm
A blog by antyeates1983 in RMweb Blogs
Posted
I have just bought some Lincs AutoCouplers to try out. Currently using Bachmann TLC with the Brian Kirby system, which works well but I wanted something less obtrusive.
What was the actual problem re. the Lincs becoming magnetised and not uncoupling?
In the instructions for the Lincs it recommends that the track magnets should all have the same pole facing upwards, could this have been a factor?