philsandy

and it all fits in to the back of a hatchback.

1 hour ago, smokebox said:

The inductors can be replaced by a piece of wire.

Thanks smokebox. I pulled off some wire from the inductor coil, drilled out the solder from the terminal and soldered it back in place. Now runs.

4 minutes ago, NIK said:

Probably. Depends what you mean by sound.

 

The photo shows a circuit board with a DC blanking plate plugged in.

 

So no DCC sound decoder mentioned or shown. Or a DCC non sound decoder.

 

The spring like thing is an inductor in series with the motor and if its come away at one or both ends the motor will not run.

 

Regards

 

Nik

Thanks Nik.

I took the photo from Bachmann 's website, I am using a sound decoder.

I take it the inductors are soldered in place?  Will need to order a replacement PCB from Bachmann.

As the title says, on a Bachmann 3MT 2-6-2.

There are 2 spring like components on the PCB (arrowed on photo) and one of them has come away from the PCB at one end, is this the reason?

Try building Ratio signals and getting them to work!  I did, eventually, but what a struggle.

Point rodding.

Anyone managed to unplug the tender from the loco? I've got the extraction tool, but it wont budge! If I use anymore force something is going to break.

10 hours ago, Steamport Southport said:

 

And how much do you think those Ivatts would cost if they make anymore?

 

Clue. This is the price of the Ivatt 2-6-2T which by your definition is only a small tank engine.

 

https://www.Bachmann.co.uk/product/lms-ivatt-2mt-tank-41227-br-lined-black-(british-railways)/31-443

 

Don't look at how much Bachmann are charging for DMUs and EMUs as you might have a seizure!

 

 

Jason

Just read the review of the Bachmann 4-CEP EMU.  Very nice looking model, you'll get 5p change from £550!

Happy New Year everyone.

Had this loco a few years and it's now started shorting as soon as it's placed on the track.

It's not being caused by the wheels on the sprung axle (4th) contacting the chassis, (common problem apparently) I fixed this when I first got it.

I'm looking for suggestions to start the process of elimination, electrics is not my strong point.

I've tried a few things to try and find the cause ie. uncoupled the tender, unplugged the decoder, placed the loco on the track with front wheels only contacting the rails and then with rear wheels only contacting the rails, and it is still shorting.

Any suggestions please?

9 hours ago, GreatWesternFan220 said:

I, too, am still waiting for my preorder from Hattons to be processed. I noticed other retailers had been receiving their quantities of the model throughout that week as well and have been keeping a close eye on my inbox in anticipation for the "Order Processed" email however I'm not in too much of a rush for it to arrive across the pond; It'll get here when it gets here I suppose (It's going in the trunk anyways). I had just assumed it was the typical holiday rush which caused Hattons to fall behind the other retailers in terms of receiving 78000 and the new batch of A4s (Dublo and Main range) although we are in the last day(s) of 2023 and still no word from them regarding 78000 (and the A4s too). Could be wrong of course but that's just my theory.

Spoke to Hattons yesterday, they are expecting them  in the New Year.

Seems odd that some "smaller" retailers have already received them before one of the biggest retailers in the UK.

Have pre ordered a Class 37, and will need to convert it to EM. I know there are drop in wheel sets available but wondered if the existing wheels can be pulled further off the axles to give 16.5 mm B2B, are the axles long enough and are they 3mm dia.?

Only ever converted one diesel before, a Heljan Class 23 and did this using the existing wheels and axles.

I have pre ordered the unlined green 78000 version from Hattons. This has been available direct from Hornby since the 18th I think, but have not heard anything from Hattons yet.

Anyone have any info re. this?

What's the best way with out cutting into the actual wire? 

This is decoder speaker wire 0.5mm dia. I'm using a scalpel blade to remove the insulation for a soldered joint, but keep cutting into the wire and it's getting shorter and shorter with each attempt.

I'm looking to change the sugar cube speakers in some of my steam locos with something that has more bass. The volume is not the issue, there just seems to be no depth to the sound.

I have several ESU 25 x 16 x 7 mm 4 ohm speakers that came with the ESU V4 micro decoders. Do these have a decent bass sound? or would I be better with something like a Megabass speaker 25 x 25 x 7. or a 27 x 27 x 13?

The locos have tenders with the decoders fitted in the loco body, so will fit the speakers in the tender, using a 2 pin plug/socket from decoder wires to speaker wires.

The advice I've seen, use the "biggest" speaker that will fit the available space, which is best, a speaker that is say, 13mm deep but smaller L x W, than one that is 7mm deep?

Any advice please.

5 hours ago, Nigelcliffe said:

 

You've now showing that Row 10 isn't controlled by F4.  There are other Control inputs (A, B, C, D...), so its possible that Row 10 is used for something else (and likely given that its got a sound slot in it).  

 

 

The V5 is basically the same as the V4.  Just got 72 lines with more stuff on each row, rather than 40 rows.      In the V4 sound producers could move things if they wished.  

 

 

In addition to my guess of row 36 for Sound Slot 11 (above, from the V5 manual),   it is also possible is that a sound producer has taken their V4 arrangements and used them without a lot of changes on a V5.  So, starting from the V4 "ESU factory defaults" may get you to an answer quicker as to which row.   But that's another guess.     
 

 

Without a computer interface,  its a lot of reading of dozens (hundreds?) of CVs to track down which rows when you don't have a definitive CV list (at least for the function map rows) from R&R.   

 

- Nigel

 

Nigel,

Managed to sort it out.

Row 10 did have sound slot 14 in it, controlled by F8.

All the sound slots were from row 4 to row 25, with the F keys in sequence with the rows  ie. F2 (row 4), F3 (row 5) an so on, to F23 (row 25).

I just went along each row noting the values of each CV, took me just over an hour,

Thank you for your help.

Phil.

34 minutes ago, Nigelcliffe said:

 

Have Roads&Rail confirmed which mapping line they are using for F4 controlling sound slot 11?    If not, you've got 72 to choose from.

 

*IF* they are using mapping row 10 for this (without that information, you're guessing), then, the CV-R = 32 you've read means sound slot 14.     

 

Your method written out is fine, but you've got to do it for the other mapping lines until you find sound slot 11 and sound slot 16  (which could be 71 more times).   

And then if it were me, I'd want to check the function keys (Control-B for F4 and Control-E for F14) for the mapping row, to check it is the key I think it is.  

From where you are,  I'd check Control-B for mapping row 10 -  is that F4 ?    If it is, then the information you have from R&R is doesn't make sense.   If its not F4, then move on until you've found the row which applies. 

 

 

For example, R&R may (wild guess!!) be using mapping row 36, because that's where the defaults put sound slot 11.  

 

Which brings me back to "use a computer to read the entire function mapping table".  It will take JMRI an hour (give or take, depends on your DCC system) to read the function map.  

 

 

No, not confirmed the mapping line, just that F4 = sound slot 11, I was just going off the manual, that F4 was on mapping row 10.

I checked Control B for mapping row 10  cv402 and it reads 000, so not F4?

I will investigate further tomorrow.

It's obviously not as straight forward as the V4.

1 hour ago, Nigelcliffe said:

The manual shows the "from factory" settings in a decoder.   The sound project creator can change those to do what they require for their sound project.  

 

In the absence of information from the sound project creator,  the only way to be sure you have the "right row" is to read in everything, and look for which row(s) is(are) controlled by which function key.    That's a lot of reading of CVs if done manually, so a job for either computer interface from DCC system to JMRI, or a LokProgrammer and ESU's software.     Once you've found the rows, you can just change the function key controlling that row.  

 

 

- Nigel

Thanks for your reply Nigel,

I am using the sound slots from the project creator, Roads & Rails, (ie. F4 in sound slot 11) and not the default factory settings.

Is the example I describe the correct method to determine the value of the appropriate CV?

Checked the values of four different CV's to see if I was interpretating the instructions re. sound slots/function buttons correctly (which I'm obviously not).

eg.  F4 (whistle) is in sound slot 11.

Sound slot 11 is in control CV R with a value of 4  (page 82)

F4 is on mapping row 10, so I set CV32 to 8 and read cv408  (page 76)

but the value of cv408 reads 32, not 4?

I need to move a few sounds to different F keys.  Read through the manual a few times but can not understand how to do this. 

I have done this a few times before with a V4, but the V5 seems to be a different set up. 

In the V4 manual the function mapping shows 24 sound slots, with 8 in each of  O , P , Q  and the values required for the control CV. The V5 manual does not have this.

Please can anyone explain how to move, eg. sound slot 16 from F14 to work off F4?  Thanks in advance. 

Interior lights on both cars are flickering.  Done the usual, cleaned all wheels/rails, checked all pick ups. I believe this is a common problem with this model, and it's down to the draw bar which also electrically connects the two cars. I've even tried another draw bar.

If I ran 2 wires from the terminals on the drawbar sockets (shown below in red), and electrically connect the cars with a 2 pin plug/socket would this eliminate the flickering?

Can someone recommend a sound file that would be close enough to a Class 504 EMU. There are files for the 416, would this sound be close to a 504 or not?

Anyone know when the BR 9F is likely to be available?

Edit: Just seen  an earlier post, apparently dropped from Phase 3/4.

Many of my locos rock on the rolling road (DCC Concepts) but run perfect on the track.

1 hour ago, Darwinian said:

I have used a Z bend in the drive to my point tiebars (00 handbuilt track) from Fulgurex point motors. Simply bent into piano wire although I think mine is nearer 0.5mm. I bend it so that the drive in and drive out are opposite one another. Also try to keep the bends to each side equal. So more like two Vs linked together.

They absorb the overthrow of the motors and keep light pressure on the thrown tiebars. No problem with failures so far.

Thanks for your reply.

Drive in and out opposite one another, does this mean the straight lengths of the wire on either side of the Z are in line with each other?

I have built points for a TT120 layout and plan to operate them by wire in tube method using slide switches.

Did a search on here and some advise using a Z bend rather than Omega wire. My question is does the Z bend have to be made from sprung wire or can the Z be made DIY, by bending it into the actuating wire, which will be 0.8mm dia. piano wire.

Also where is the best position for the Z bend, close to to point tie bar or at the slide switch, or does it not make any difference?