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ROSSPOP

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  1. ROSSPOP
    With aging hands and eyesight this will be the last kit build for me as I`ve now got quite a selection of builds to play with, plus it`s time to start playing with them all.
     
    I`ve been wanting to build one of these for quite a while and took the plunge just after Christmas.   £ 400  gets you a complete kit including wheels and a motor/gearbox kit plus all the  detail parts in either lost wax or white metal including seating parts for the passenger saloon. Scorpio supply three instruction booklets, covering  the motor bogie, trailing bogie and body. It is a complex kit.
     
    As ever I kicked off with building  the motorised bogie and vertical boiler unit, starting with the coupling rods.
     

     
    There is a great set of etches in nickel silver for the bogie frames etc.  There is provision for beam compensation but I have opted for a fixed chassis as this is a complex build.
     

     
    Reading the instructions several times is essential for this kit as they flit about rather than flow in sequence.
     
    Nickel silver solders so well and I numbered the parts required at each stage.
     

     
     The etched bearing holes are accurately positioned.
     
     
    But I like to be doubly sure, as this mechanism will be difficult to be dismantled even for painting.
     

     
    I do like to have compensation with loco chassis but this would have added too much complication with the internal white metal detailing.
     

     

     
    The motion parts are very finely etched or lost wax which benefit from fettling before assembly.
     

     
     

     
    Not the simplest of ways to construct slide bars, but they do look the part.
     

     
    But after a bit of a clean up  it all comes together....
     

     
    .......................... more to follow...........................
     
     
     
  2. ROSSPOP

    Dapol`s RTR O Gauge Sentinel.

    By ROSSPOP,


    Dapol `s RTR O Gauge Sentinel
    This excellent Dapol product arrived recently................. so time for a little modelling fun.
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
    She was easy to dismantle as the adhesive used is rather like Evostic  from years ago
     
    I fitted a 21 pin ESU sound decoder with Howes generic sentinel sound file as well as giving her a new identity.
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
     
  3. ROSSPOP
    This project is another part of my lockdown efforts.
     
    Warren Shepard`s small prairie kit was the only kit of this type available at the time of purchase and I`ve needed to replace the heavy whitemetal kit of the 45XX that I constructed back in 2009.
     
     I`ve never made this make of kit before and was encouraged in my research regarding the quality of his  lost wax castings supplied with each kit. I also studied P A D`s 2017 build of this very kit and was made aware of a few of the kit`s short Cummings ( tee! hee!).
     
    The kit has a plethora of guidlines and diagramatical illustrations but no numbered written instructions to follow. Also this is not a tab and slot designed kit. So, if you are shy of soldering and possible anealing  as well as shy of riveting  this kit is probably not for you.
     
    You are required to work a bit  to achieve a good build so I will see how things go.........................
     
    I always start with the coupling rods and for this kit a set of jointed Premier Components are supplied. That saves a few hours work...
     
     

     
    The next job is to fabricate some sprung hornblocks and I chose from my broom cupboard a set  of Slaters old style nylon honblocks as I needed an adjustable axle ride height.
     

     
    Once these had been fettled up I used some metal blackening solution to save time later on together with the preparation and blackening of a set of Slaters wheels.
     

     
    I like to have very smooth backs of the wheel treads to  reduce the braking effect of plunger pickups.
     
     
    Warrens chassis design is made from substantially thick brass etchings so I am using an 80watt bog standard Antex soldering iron with my all time favourite flux Baker`s Fluid which I have been using since the 1960`s.
     
    But before that You will need to mark and drill the brake hanger positions and rear sandbox positions which are not pre etched. I also needed to use some measured scratchings to position the axle ride height as designed for this kit before I cut out the hornblock slots.
     

     
     

     
     

     
    Time spent here will save a lot of tears later on. I also marked and drilled out the plunger pickup positions which are best placed at the axle centreline position so as not to impede the wheel suspension movement.  I also fettled and soldered up the driving wheel springs so as not to melt the nylon hornblocks.
     

     
    Having mentioned the lack of tabs and slots , there are  two chassis stretchers that are so...... but the slots are etched in the wrong places....more on this easily rectified issue later.
     
    Next is to fettle up and prepare all parts needed for the chassis assembly.
     

     
    The two cylinder block stretchers are designed to make the whole cylinder assembly completely removeable to which they are very useful parts  to keep things square during assembly and soldering up.  I needed to cut notches in two of the stretchers to accommodate the hornblock positions. The two stretchers with the incorrect slot positions were sorted out at this stage as they are both required to be the correct height for the two bogie trucks.
     
    The front stretcher I was able to solder to the rear of the chassis block to which it does have corresponding slots and tabs and does not need to be soldered to the chassis sides. Slots have to be cut to accommodate the hornblocks and the brake hanger rod and the plunger pickup positions   to make it all removeable.
     

     
    If you see what I mean.....
     

     
    Eventually you can produce a very substantial solid chassis frame.....
     

     
     
    Here you can see where the original slots are too high in the chassis sides....
     

     
    It was easy to use this datum to match the height of the front stretcher....
     

     
    Once all that was sussed.... everything else was plain sailing....
     

     
    ...with the exception of some crude springs to replace the originals that are far too strong for this application.  My easy method of jigging evrything in place for a trouble free chassis and motion.
     
    And finally a wiz- popping free running basic chassis.....

     
     
    Next a pleasant evening putting together the two identical bogie trucks from Warrens brilliant quality castings...
     
     

     
     
    The back to finishing off the cylinder block mainframe...... requiring some riveting and metal bending....
     

     
    and  a wee bit of finger burning.....
     

     
     

     
     

     
    Knowing that I have a sweet running chassis I ventured on to perhaps the most challenging parts of the kit.
     
    Warren has cunningly produced a printed riveting guide which you cut out and stick to the rear of the loco tank sides, rear, and front footplate and then apply the rivets using these guides.
    Apparently the printed guides don`t match up to the etchings and I could`nt be arsed , so I used them to mark all rivets by hand and then rivet in the usual way.......
     

     
    Job done in one evening.........
     
     
    And now.... the real build begins..........
     
     

     
    I felt the front footplate needed annealing to get that curved bend...... it was a b%$$£r to flatten out aferwards....
     

     
    ...despite a few dents for added realism I just about got away with it.......... this time....
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
  4. ROSSPOP
    it`s been a bit of a while........
    But I`m aiming to get this project built over the next six weeks....
     
    So, with the loco chassis 90% complete and pending the fitting of replacement Slaters drivers I`m pushing on with the bodywork.
     
    Like most modellers I`ve replaced those vulnerable  white metal lampirons and loco whistle with lost wax castings from LGminiatures
     

     
     
    At the same time I drilled all 40 odd holes in the mazak body casting. I used a cordless drill and kept dipping the drill bits in neat washing up liquid and did`nt break a single drill.
     

     
    I thought the cab backhead was a tad too high bearing in mind the cab roof has lots of internal detailing   and there is a lot of pipework at the very top of the cast backhead to be fitted in place so i reduced the height......
     

     
     
     
     
    The most awkward part was folding the thick etched cab and keeping the window frames from buckling...........
     

     
     
    I`ve done about 90% of the chassis now........
     

     
     
     
    ...and quite a bit of fettling with the front bogie pivot and rear axle to get her to negotiate a B7 turnout.......
     
     

     
     
     

     
    as most modellers now know , the original Hatchette drivers are completely useless for turning her into a working model so I have a replacement set of proper Slaters wheels....
  5. ROSSPOP
    It was inevitable that I would also need a stone built Engine Shed to match what has been completed so far......
     
    I should mention that I used the Invertrain  Models Abbotsbury kit as a base model.  The kit as supplied will not make up into the  final assembly described here.
     
    I used the same method to begin by re-engraving the resin moulded stonework into a more pleasing appearance and used some reference material to make a more convincing looking GWR structure from photos of the original shed.  Bearing in mind the original shed was taken out of service not long after it was built and had the roof windows and doors removed. It was therefore a dilapidated shell in the 1930`s and no one knows so far what the roof style looked like back then.
     
    I used Slaters stone moulded plasticard to add some rudimentary detailing on the inside walls and I decided to remake the shed doors, sill and hinges from scratch.
     

     
    Careful attention in squaring up the sides and end mouldings before final assembly was required.  And  I re-sized the overall roof and vent to give a more finer look which was made up into a separate
    stand alone unit to aid painting and interior detailing later on.
     

     
     
    Much thought and use of the trusty Milliput has been essential in changing the stone work to hide the corner joints and making the windows more prototypical.
     

     
     
    The guttering parts of the kit and the external chimney stack were replaced with scratch built parts.  
     

     
     

     
     
    some of the roof vent parts were used but have been suitably re-sized to suit the new roof shape.
     
     
     
     
    A coat of Halford`s Acrylic Primer hides a multitude of sins.......
     

     
     

     
     
    To be continued..............................................................
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
  6. ROSSPOP
    In between a few projects recently so, this weekend, I enjoyed a stress free few hours assembling this ABS Models GWR Shunters truck.
     

     
    Sometimes kits can be a labour of lurve and tribulation and this kit is no exception.
     
    a bit of a struggle from start to finish.
     
    instructions are the equivalent of `jottings in the columns of a comic` and take some fathoming out.
     
    not a lot of image info of the real things.
     

     
    A lot of pre clearing of  flash from parts before assembly.
     
     I opted for a super glue assembly using Gorilla Glue Products with just a smidgin of soldering for the handrails and stancions which are very large split pins.
     
    I even made the sprung buffers using the supplied drawing pins........
     


  7. ROSSPOP

    Getting it all together.

    By ROSSPOP,

    Something has to be done with my languishing Churchill project this year. The trouble is I am going of the idea of having a through station and don`t relish the work to make two fiddle yards at either end.
     

     
    I`m leaning towards changing it all to a GWR country terminus complete with an Engine shed so that I can keep it all in the shed and just play trains whenever I feel like it. And of course start another layout project afterwards.
     

     
    The signal box is based on St Mary`s Crossing
     

     
    The main buildings are based on Portesham in Dorset...
     

     

     
    Do I go for it ?? just the Engine shed and cattle dock to complete. And of course a new platform........
     

  8. ROSSPOP
    Having really faffed around with doing individual panes of glass ( that should be pains of glass !! ) for the rooflight the Goods Shed is now complete.
     

     
    I wanted to make the rooflight more flush with the slates which I hope adds to the realism.
     

     
     
     

    Well to recap... I`ve gone from this........
     

     
     
     
    To this........
     

     

    Next to complete the overall project will be a bit of cheating........
     
    I did`nt make this one. T`was bought of ebay back in 2010 for a very good price
     

     
    She just needs reverting back to 1930`s GWR building colours................
     
    Bye for now..........
  9. ROSSPOP
    I`ve done all I can with reworking the stonework which seems to have been more challenging this time. One of the shed cast end pieces seems to have `soft` cast and my dental burr bit into it and nearly pierced the casting.
     
    I`m sure if I had contacted Chris at Invertrain he would have replaced it.
     
    However I`ve percevered.......
     
    Photos of the original shed are not that common and I`ve wondered whether the shed actually had a skylight.
     
    ...but I found this and something is there.......
     

     
    so... I was hoping to build a removable roof to help with painting later on, but first I wanted to reduce the roofs all round overhang and to use my slitting disc to produce a much finer edge to the roof tiles particularly at the barge board ends. Also, I wanted to position the soffits and fascia boards so that they did`nt encroach on the stone arches front and back.
     
    So, orf` I wented..... donning a face mask I `milled` down the roof edges around the tile moulding and chamfered the top edges after reducing the overall size of the roof to give a better looking profile.
     

     

     
    Then it was an easy task to superglue it all together using the end barge boards to get the roof angle square... so easy infact that I then wasted half an our slowly removing my thumb from the inside surface of the roof... very painfull....
     
    But, mission accomplished.....
     

     

     
    I`ve reworked the stone as far as I can but still need to Milli it up....
     

     
    I`m generally quite pleased with progress today.......
     

     
     
     

  10. ROSSPOP
    Being pleased with the William Clarke style station based on Portesham.....
     
    I`m having a go at his Portesham small goods shed...........................................
     

     
    Invertrain resin kit again but this time no replacement parts, just as it comes but with a lot of reworking.
     
    The stone work casting is in need of some re-doing.
     

     
     
     

     
    I like the all the parts that make up the see through roof but the whole roof needs changing......
     
    ...much work in progress......
  14. ROSSPOP
    Phase one has been to start lightening the stonework and begin to get rid of the satin sheen of the primer coat.
     

     

    I`m using mainly Revell matt enamels and very old stock matt Humbrol.
     

     

    Phase two has been to colour individual stones and then a further overall wash of the main stonework colour.
     

     

    This will now need to dry for 24 hours and then I must concoct a morter probably dark grey colour mixed with plaster of P.
     

     


     


  15. ROSSPOP
    You know how it is, you`re quietly numbing your brain spending endless hours trolling through ebay sites and then you suddenly make an impulsive purchase..........
     

     
    The expected parcel arrives and then, of course, the guilt sets in........
     
    Should I have made such a rash decision? It looked good from the pics on ebay and, to be fair, it looks good now it`s in my possession. I need to upgrade it a bit , and repaint it here and there, but overall it`s a good build.
     
    But I`m not going to show any of you until I`v finished what this parcel has started.
     
    Tucked away in the attic there are a number of railway building kits. One of those is an Invertrain 7mm kit of Portesham Station a resin complete kit in the GWR style of William Clarke.
     

     
    When I bought it back in 2008 I thought it had potential for some improvement, and still do, so spurred on by my mystery ebay purchase I`ve decided recently to assemble the kit and upgrade as I go along using easily availble parts from the O gauge trade.
     
    The first thing I elected to have a go at was remodelling the stonework with a dental burr to correct the `skew-wiff ` appearance of a couple of areas
     

     
    ....and to get rid of the `jelly mould ` look of some of the stonework.
     

     

     

     
    The next episode was to square up the resin slab sides and assemble the parts using Gorrila Gel superglue rather than the long established
    use of Araldite.
     

     
    Then to correct some of the offending stone work with Milliput and then engrave the new levelled off stonework.
     

     
    I also plan to use individual roof slates so I replaced the resin roof with plasticard.
     
    Next up was to completely replace all the canopy parts starting with the canopy support brackets. For these I sent a way for some 3D printed parts from Yorkmodelmaking.
     

     
    ....and then more engaving with the dental burr to bed them in...... I refashione the support timbering to raise the height of the canopy to make a more accurate fit.
     
    The three chimney stacks are plaster mouldings and these needed a lot of work to re- engrave and tidy up.......
     

     
    The it was time to bring it all together with a heavy spray session with Halfords Acrylic Primer....
     

     
    Then last evening I spent a pleasant 5 hours scratch building a new replacement canopy and skylight using Yorkmodelmaking Acrylic glazing sheet.
     


     

     
    Now comes the real work of hand painting the stonework.... this will take a little while me thinks......
  16. ROSSPOP
    Well I don`t mind admitting ....it`s been a bit of a sod to get these coaches this far....
     

     
    And they don`t have the livery finish I was hoping for........
     

     
    I invested in some Fox lining transfers and despite adding a gloss finish to the coach sides I just could`nt get them to fix adequately... I even tried Micro set and sol but Fox transfers don`t like either. So I was forced to use HMRS Pressfix lining which of course if you are a GWR affectionado is wrong........
     

     
    Anyhow I`ll have to live with it as I`m crap at lining with my Bob Moores pen.
     

     
    So just the Droplights/glazing and interior detailing and they will be complete......
  17. ROSSPOP
    Having built all my GWR loco kits and won`t be doing anymore ever, it`s time to move over and build some coaches.
     
    I have got a token RTR GWR auto-coach from the Lionheart stable but my preference has always been to build kits as these will have my own build compromises rather than the manufacturers.
     
    Anyway, I was lucky enough to snap this Cavalier B set on ebay back in 2012 and made an initial assessment of what was needed back then.
     
    Serious construction then started last November so as to be some alternative project during the building of my last two loco kits.
     
    Cavalier kits were the biz back in 1985 and were way too expensive for me back then.
     
    you get quite a bit for your monies......................................
     

     
    Nice pre-formed and VERY thick brass coach sides.....tin plated pre-shaped roof.... fold-up etched truss framework and then all white metal underframe detailing, coach ends and bogie kits plus wheels.
     
    Having very thick gauge brass draws a lot of heat from a soldering iron and I needed every watt from my 80W Antex iron.
     
    The kit represents a GWR 60` Bow-ended B set with recessed door handles and guards door.
     

     
    Folding up the recessed door etches was hard going......
     

     
    The recessed door handles was much easier going........
     

     
    .......and I finished the recessed guards door with Milliput Filler.
     

     
    CPL Models produce some very juicy 7mm coach detailing products and I used their fold up door hinges and door stops to upgrade the kit as I went along.
     

     
    Drilling small holes in the thick coach sides caused a lot of cheap drill casualties !!!
     

     
    The next challenge was to be soldering white metal cast ends in place. For this I used Carrs 100deg low melt solder ( Carrs yellow label flux is essential) which needs no pre-tinning of the brass sides.
     

     
    I don`t possess a temperature controlled iron so in true cheap-skate style I merely switch off my 80watt iron for 1.5mins and she`s then ready for 4mins of whitemetal soldering !!!!!...... but like a full Porta Loo on a camp site you need to be in and out quick !!!!
     
    Then solder on the tin -plate roof and brass rain strip and trim everything up.
     
    The bottom edges of the coach sides have a pre-folded recess to take the pre cut `hard board` flooring. There are also pre-folded brass channel chassis frames and white metal frame ends. This assembly bolts on to the bottom of the coach end castings .
     

     
    The kit has etched thick brass fold up angle irons for the underframe trusses..... impossible to fold without making a `pigs ear` for me anyway, so I replaced with brass angle strips....much easier and better looking in the long run...
     

     
    ....and it`s not a difficult job to complete. I did use the etched centre truss support brackets supplied.
     

     
    The cast whitemetal bogie kits are not compensated and go together very well.... no brake blocks but looks the biz..
     

     
    Next I added further detailing parts from CPL Models plus some scratch handrails of my own to supe rdetail the outer coach ends...
     

     
    The kits have a simple and ingenious way of springing the buffers which are cast lostwax offerings
     
    These kits have a good supply of chassis components which need a minimum of cleaning up ready for assembly....
     

     
    I have completed both coach underframes this week....a couple of evenings work....most satisfying.....
     

    .... note the use of PCB strips for the running boards.....
     

     
    So far .... so good.........
     

     
    This week has seen the final amount of detailing prior to etch priming.........
     

     

     
     
     

  18. ROSSPOP
    Well tis` all done.
     
    She left the paint shop on Friday and just needed the cab details painted up
     

     
    Then Saturday saw the arrival of her etched No and builders plates from Severnmill products.
     
    Not one of my absolute best builds and there were a lot of self inflicted problems along the way.
     
    But she does look the bizz....
     
     
     
    Any how , this month is a ten year anniversary of joining the Gauge O Guild. In 2008 I purhased a brass RTR GWR Pannier Tank from Tower Models.
     
    She looked lovely....at first but I soon fell out of love with her over quite a few issues I could not accept.
     
    So I painted her up in Wartime livery and sold her on.
     

     
    Ten years later I`ve finally replaced her.............................
     

     

     
     
     

     
    She`s a bit of a `rocker` on the rolling road which I think is due to a rogue Slaters driver as the rock is much less noticeable on the track but nevertheless has been there right from the very beginning of the chassis build.
     

     

    Cheers
     
    Johnny Rosspop
  19. ROSSPOP
    I did consider putting a speaker in the bunker, but that should have been planned for earlier in the construction.
     
    So after deliberations I settled for in between the chassis frames. Thankyou to the sugar cube !!!!!
     

     
    I simply made a couple of plasticard platforms......................................
     

     
    As Zimo decoders have protective covers I will disguise things further with black paint.
     

  20. ROSSPOP
    As this is the very last loco chassis I will be painting, I think I will write it all up.
     
    I`v already mentioned to you that I prefer to make everything easy to assemble and unassemble despite the brakeblocks and rodding all soldered into their respective places. I like using Tamiya low tack masking tape to protect the hornblocks before painting
     

     
    I`ve discovered since modelling in 7mm that Closterman etch primer provides a quality finish to the modelled chassis and does not require an additional black top-coat.
     

     

     
    I`ve also discovered a new preference of using sprung plunger pickups as standard on all my locomotive stock.
     
    I happen to like Slaters product and if used and set up properly gives excellent results.
     

     
    There are a couple of modifications I use on them. Firstly, I tweek the springs length so they are the same length as the non-threaded part of the plunger.
     

     
    I used to file the pointed ends of the plungers into a more rounded shape ,but on the last three loco kits I have left them as supplied and they perform just as well.
     
    On the most recent batch the plunger springs have been long enough not to need tweeking longer.
     

     
    The final check is that the plunger is free to move in and out of the plastic plunger, the hole in the plastic housing usually needs opening out. I use a small needle file for this.
    I also cut a flat on the housing lip to enable the assembled plunger to be gently squeezed past the brake blocks into their offset holes.
     
    IT IS ESSENTIAL to use small gauge wire soldered to the connector spades to ensure ultra free movement of the plunger springs. I use the same size flexible wire that is attached to Decoders.
     

     
    After that my next preference is to use chemical blackening to wheels and motion.
     

     
    I prefer the above products finishing off with a coat of Electrofix laquer.
     

     
    Then it`s just a case of the final reassembly of parts..........................................................................
     

     
    A canon motor and ABC multistage gear box provides the power.
     
    Then even the wheel balance weights are given the blackening treatment.
     

  21. ROSSPOP
    My schedule has over run by two weeks , but today completed fabricating the cab work....................................................................................
     

     
    Some of the lost wax parts look overscale to me, however, I was lucky to have some of the GWR castings from my MOK autotank assembly as spares and used these to base the cab work on preserved pannier 7714.
     

     
    I`m happy with the result which will provide a `busy` looking interior.
     
    So, at last, the kit has all been put together and I have built it in three sub units to aid final painting.
     

     
    it is`nt all perfect I`m afraid as I made a few assembly errors due to `old age` and problematic eyesight difficulties
     

     
    But I`m content as a final kit build.............................................................................................
     

     
    Just to set up the painting shed and then start the finished painted assembly, wire up and test and then bring alive with DCC sound...................................
     
    ................................. see you all later.
  22. ROSSPOP
    Spent all of last evening with two fingers and a thumb in a bowl of ice cubes!!!
     
    Never, NEVER pick up a soldering iron by the wrong end...........
     

     
    Told you me eyesight was getting bad........
     
    Current modelling progress delayed.......
     
    John
  23. ROSSPOP
    Making model loco handrails is not one of my favourite builds. It has`nt helped that the handrails supplied were (a) not enough usable examples in total, (b) a few were innacurately drilled through. Luckily I had a few in the spares box.
     
    My method works for me so I make boiler and pannier handrails in two halves.
     

     
    Using an easily bendable wire. The version supplied in the kit seemed to be brass/nickel mix and was easy to work with.
     

     
    Obviously the two halves are joined and soldered at the central handrail knob.
     
    The white metal dome supplied was a tad oval in shape so I had to make do with it.
     

     

    She`s well on the way to completion...............................................................................................
     

  24. ROSSPOP
    I like to build a chassis so that wheels and motor are removable for painting and chemical blackening. Once you know you have a sweet running motion It`s just a case of adding all the brakes and details.
     
    I like a robust brake gear set up and use slightly bigger gauge rods to achieve this aim. The cast springs supplied in the kit are nicely detailed and perhaps slightly over scale if I was to be really pernickety. There are lots of etched brake rod washers supplied in a very heavy gauged nickel silver fret, which are afflicted by `cusps` at the edges through the etching process . I decided not to waste time fettling the cusps away.
     

     
    I started with the brake hanger rods and the firebox.
     
    As my loco will be an early version I fitted the early pattern brake hangers ( the kit also supplies the later pattern). These are the usual etched design, each set needing two halves soldered together.
    The white metal sandboxes needed draw filing to make them look presentable.
     

     
    You need to consider the positioning of the brake operating rods and not make everything too scale closeness or removing the wheels will be impossible.
     
    It all reassembles easily enough...............................................................................................................................
     

     
     
     

     
    I`m pleased with the result and the chassis is virtually ready for the paint shop
  25. ROSSPOP
    I was hoping to have completed construction this week, but there has been a few re-fashioning delays from the kit and some errors on my part .
     
    The buffer faces as supplied have a very noticeable `dome` head `their all domed`!!
     

     
    Easily sorted with the trusty carborundum disc.................................................................
     
    Other modellers have noted that the cast injectors as supplied are cast incorrectly and need a lot of extra work to become prototypical.
     

     
    As can be seen as supplied on the left if not modified cannot be made to look right.
     
    It took a couple of evenings to sort out..................................
     
    .
     
    The cast pannier tank supports in my kit were not square and needed fettling to get right..................................................................
     

     
    Again , not quite perfect but the best I could come up with.
     
    The buffer housings needed re-drilling to make a smooth working buffer shaft
     

     
    But finally on removal of the footplate frame I found very little work was needed to get a smooth trouble free chassis match-up
     

     
     
     
    Decided to do more work on the body but did`nt like the wrong size of the central toolbox which on the finished model will be very prominent.
     

     
    On the real thing the back of it is tight up to the central splasher face and the front is almost flush with the edge of the footplate.
     
    The `iffy` whitemetal versions supplied just don`t fit and are too shallow.................................
     

     
    So, with some scrap white metal sheet from the bits and bobs box I made the toolboxes deeper..................
     

     
    And after cleaning up look better..........................................................
     

     
    And fit better...........................................................................................
     

     
    Happier with that I can now push on.................................................................................
     

     

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