david65061

The NCB trains on the Lambton system in county Durham worked about five miles along the british Railways  main line from Penshaw to Sunderland to access the staithes so the coal could be loaded into ships. This was allowed because of running rights.

Dear Mike

Thanks for that it will be very helpful.

kind regards

David

Dear Mike

Any chance of a picture which shows how the pipe work and sand box rods are arranged on top of the tanks. I can not find a picture which shows this clearly, and it is preventing me from finishing my A class kit.

kind regards

David

The eight wheeled passenger loco has ten wheels?

If you want to make small rings, you will need to wind some wire around something of the required diameter. So, you end up with the wire spiralling  around your core, much like a spring. Cut a single turn of the end and then solder the ends together to make a ring. It is really quite simple but rather difficult to describe with out diagrams.

I built a couple of chilton iron works locos. They were very good and i wish they were still available today. 

I posted in the topic below on page 4 a long time ago but there is a picture of my kitisons lambton tank from a chilton iron works kit at the bottom of my post. 

David

5 hours ago, doilum said:

Question for the botanists: was ragwort as extensive as it is now?

It used to be removed as soon as it grew as it was poison to horses. When we were in the scouts we would pay for our weeks camping at a farm by removing it from a field and then chucking it in a river  as they did not want it in any of the fields.

please put me down for one in em, thanks.

Came across this picture on Heritage rail.

 https://www.heritagerailway.co.uk/1436/railway-history-and-site-of-an-lner-terminus-and-mpd/

Same loco and LMS wagon. Must be as it heads back to the incline.

kind regards

David

In the book Sentinel Locomotives and Sentinel-Cammell Railcars by the industrial railway society there are some pictures of partially dismantled sentinel locos and the coal bunker is lined with wooden planks. not a huge leap to think they might also have covered the top of the water tank next to the bunker in wooden planks as well.

David 

Dear Mike

you need to put an addvert blocker on to your browser. If you are using chrome you can use Ad blocker. see link below. It will remove most adds from most wed sites.

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/search/ad blocker plus

it goes on as an extensions which you can find in more tools, found from the three dots in the right hand corner.

hope that helps. It can't be that hard as I managed to install it.

kind regards

David

Could I ask do you need to drill a larger hole in the Gibson wheel to fit the markits crank pin, or even cut a thread as well or can you just screw the crank pin in as you would the gibson one? Thanks.

regards

David

Dear Adam

Thanks for the reply. I will try soldering it. I had assumed wrongly that it would not solder.

David

Dear Mike

I am building one of your  North British 0-4-0 kits at present and am enjoying it, it is a nice kit to build but I am a bit stumped with one  point. Please could you tell me how I attach firmly the brass fly cranks to the stainless steel stepped axle? If it is a push fit there would appear to be a fine line too tight and too loose. Or should I use some thing like Loctite to stick them together? thanks.

David

i have some models with a styrene chassis which are twenty years old and they are still as strong as when I made them. My models are not run regularly, some times not at all from year end to year end. so, i can not comment on how well they will perform if regularly used but I have no reason to assume they will not perform acceptably. In fact a lot of three-d printed locos use a plastic chassis. As long as they are well braced with plenty of cross bracing and are built totally square they should be fine. If it turns out that it does not work you will not have spent very much on the styrene so it will not be too much you are throwing away. you will be able to use the bearings and motor in a metal chassis if you have to go that way due to the styrene not working. The same rules apply to using a metal chassis in that the wheel centers must match exactly the coupling rods and it needs to be all square. Good luck with your own build.

I just discovered this topic. I built a gibson E4 with Darlington cab about twenty years ago. The cab side sheets were very thin and I managed to get them with I slight bowed and had to fill them with modelling filler to get a completely flat cab side sheet.

I used the cab front forth raised cab but filed off the raised etch which represents the join between the original cab and the extension. The Darlington cabs had new fronts. I do not remember if i also had to reprofile it. Though the cab roof seems to be the correct size.

The kit builds up into a nice model. This was the driver for my conversion to EM. I built it in 00 but the distance between the front wheels and the front frame looked daft so I rebuilt it in EM.

kind regards

David

Thought I would post a few pictures of my latest loco. A J69 No. 8623. Made from a Gladstone Models kit which I got cheap on Ebay. It must have been from the 1970's and required a fair bit of work to bring it up to modern standards including a scratch built chassis. It was an exile from the flat lands in the east of England which ended up at St. Margarets in Edinburgh. It is fitted with the traditional Scottish shunter's step and hand rail. Separated from the rest of its kind it also avoided being rebuilt with a taller cab and retained its stove pipe chimney which marked it out even more as a Scottish loco.

David

That's fair enough David,

 

After quickly searching for the said loco. Unfortunately the chassis kits are too short at a scale 4'9" and one other type I did at 5'0" so the motor would sit in the shallower loco bodies and the real chassis could be adjusted up to 6 inches to allow for the chains being stretched.

 

Your loco being a CE rather than a BE has a 7'0" wheelbase

Dear Richard

Oh well I will have to make my own. Though I would appreciate you adding the sentinel axle box castings your detailing parts catalogue. Thanks.

kind regards

David

Which version of sentinel was you planning?

 

I'm only asking as all of the 100hp series is available from myself as complete, easy to build kits.

 

Dear Richard

I want to build a model of the derwent valley railway loco. It does not have the difficult grills of the y1 and y3 sentinels. I may build one of your kits sentinel kits in the future. I  know your kits are good to build.. I have a part  completed manning wardle loco which went together very well and I need to finish the detailing. I particularly liked the fact it was nickel silver as this was nicer to solder than brass. As well as building kits though I also like to scratch build as it gives me a different challenge.

kind regards

David

I forgot to mention I will also be offering for sale separately soon the manning wardle chassis etches.

 

Would anyone be interested in chassis kits from the sentinel loco kits?

Robert

I would be interested in a chassis kit for a sentinel, if it had the sentinel axle box castings that would be great. I have been planning a scratch build sentinel but had yet to work out how to do the axle boxes.

kind regards

David

We could think of a much better alternative colour for your loco Paul. Go on, you know you want to.

Derek

The only alternative colour I could think of is black. Perhaps with red lining. Is that what you had in mind?

While I finish off these three J77's, here's a picture of another ex-NER tank locomotive, the A6. This was finished in reasonably clean condition, though starting to exhibit the weather worn appearance of most locomotives in 1950.

 

Can anyone advise me as to whether the boiler bands and valance edge were lined when this livery was first used circa 1949?

 

I have to confess that I do love these large North Eastern tank locos and I really must add the A7 and A8 to the fleet!

 

Cheers

 

Mike

Dear Mike

That is a great looking loco. Reminds me that I have a little engines kit of one nearly finished which I should get around to finishing off. 

There is an undated picture of 69796 in yeadons in the condition of your model with lined valences and boiler bands if that is a help.

regards

David

Dear All

It is a long time since I have updated this thread but it took me a long time to get around to ordering some new transfers from HMRS. I have now numbered the loco. I of course jumped straight in an numbered the right side of the loco with the number in the usual position for a north eastern loco, only to look at a picture of the loco once that side was done to see that 65061 had its numbers higher. So at least the left hand side has the number in the correct but unusual position. Removing the transfers to correct the right side I think may make a mess of the paint work so I have left it. As I was taking the pictures for this thread I noticed that I have still to make the balance weights for the wheels so that is still to do.

regards

David

just ordered myself a copy

Dear All

I did some painting today. After filling some minor blemishes I resprayed with primer this morning and then a coat of halfords matt black this afternoon. It is not the best coat of paint i have ever done. It is slightly textured which is due I think to trying to paint in a cardboard box to reduce drift because it was quite windy. I should perhaps have waited till a calm day then spray with the model sitting on a pile of bricks which is what i normally do. But even worse I managed to drop the model which slightly damaged the paint on the back left of the cab roof and the top of the funnel. I have touched it up with matt black paint but I think I will need something slightly more glossy to match. Anyway it could have been a lot worse. The buffer beams are still in primer and will need painting red. I normally paint the inside of loco cabs body colour but this time I used maskol to mask the top half of the cab inside. I now need to decide what colour to paint it. This is a picture of the cab of preserved 65033 http://s282.photobucket.com/user/RobLangham/media/j21f.jpg.html. It is a horrible brown colour but what colour would it have been in the 1950's. There was some talk on Wordsell-Forevers thread . http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/3252-worsdell-forevers-workbench-north-eastern-green/page-17 

That the inside of North eastern engines cabs should be red. Perhaps some one out there in RMweb land knows.

regards

David