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YK 50A

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  1. YK 50A
    Close coupling mixed rakes of coaches will always be a compromise in this house. While I would mostly be happy with fixed sets, my 10 year old son likes to marshall them, so a semi-permanent close coupler such as the Bachmann (dummy pipe) 36-060 is not an option. Also, trying to turn potentially long rakes of coaches from their sides to their wheels isn't practical.
     
    With regard to the Airfix origin Hornby Mk2s, I originally intended to fit a close coupling mechanism manufactured by Keen Systems. However, I want to keep the coaches in near to new condition as they will be sold on and replaced when Bachmann release their new Mk2 air cons. I've already got rid of a good number that were stored.
     
    I've had this set of pictures on my Flickr site for a while and they get more views than most of my photos of real trains. High time I wrote a blog on the subject, so the following is what I have found to be the simplest solution for close coupling various combinations of Bachmann and Airfix/Dapol/Hornby/Mainline coaching stock.
     

    Bachmann Mk1's with factory fitted couplings
    Using factory fitted Bachmann 36-061 tension lock couplings on both coaches. Plenty of room for improvement!
     

    Bachmann Mk1's close coupled
    Using Bachmann 36-027 (short/cranked) tension lock couplings on both coaches.
     

    Bachmann Mk1 and Bachmann Mk2 close coupled
    Alternating Bachmann 36-027 and factory fitted Bachmann 36-061 tension lock couplings. Bachmann 36-027 couplings on both vehicles looks good on the straights, but causes problems when propelled over short radius crossovers.
     

    Bachmann Mk2's close coupled
    Alternating Bachmann 36-027 and factory fitted Bachmann 36-061 tension lock couplings.
     

    Hornby Mk2D's close coupled
    Using modified Bachmann 36-026 tension lock couplings on both coaches (see below).
     

    Modifying a Bachmann 36-026 coupling
    The Hornby Mk2D does not have an NEM pocket, but a Bachmann 36-026 coupling can be modified to fit by clipping off the wings and carefully opening up the screw hole with an over sized screwdriver or drill bit.
     
    The coach bogies will helpfully turn through 90°, so can be worked on without removing them from the underframe. Pop the top off the coupling box with a small screwdriver, make sure the modified coupling sits snugly on the coupling mount, and replace the coupling box top.
     
    The coach can be returned to factory condition and this method will also work with different Airfix, Dapol, Hornby and Mainline (and other manufacturers) products which use the same coupling mount.
     
    Many thanks to Silver Sidlelines Blog for this method.
     

    Bachmann Mk1 and Hornby Mk2D close coupled
    Using Bachmann 36-027 and Hornby R8099 (Hornby's take on the Airfix) tension lock couplings respectively. Still room for improvement, but much closer than out of the box and looks better on the rails than on the workbench. Fitting the modified Bachmann 36-026 coupling to the Hornby coach brings the vehicles too close together to work reliably when propelled over short radius crossovers. I am building our next layout with more generous radii and will be revisiting this - if the Bachmann Mk2Fs don't arrive first.
     

    Bachmann Mk2 and Hornby Mk2D close coupled
    Using Bachmann 36-027 and Hornby R8099 tension lock couplings respectively. Without a close coupling mechanism on the Hornby coach, this is a close as the vehicles will get while maintaining reliability when propelled over short radius crossovers.
     

    Close coupling - the end result!
    I wonder why Hornby made the effort to incorrectly paint Mk2F style gangway ends on their Mk2D coaches.
     

    Close coupling - roof view...
    A real improvement and reliable over short radius crossovers evident in this view, although the train set pictured is now history.
     
    While I've used 4 different couplings, considering vacuum, air or dual braking, steam, ETH or dual heating, the kitchen of a catering car next to 1st class and standard class at the country end, helps make sure that appropriate couplings will end up next to each other. Besides, employing a little prototypical practice adds to the fun when putting rakes together.
     
    I'm not for one moment suggesting that this solution is in anyway better than Kadee Couplers and the like, but it's cheap, cheerful, works for us and nothing irreversible has been done to the stock.
  2. YK 50A

    Laying the trackbed

    By YK 50A,

    I cheated with the baseboards, woodwork is something I'm pretty rubbish at. Having sourced the 9mm ply and softwood with best intentions, a friend built the boards in his workshop.
     

     
    It consists of four 4' x 2' sections in two 4' x 4' halves. I will be building the layout so the baseboard can be split in half without doing too much damage.
     

     
    I made a decision to cover the boards in 3mm cork sheet. On my last layout, there was an appreciable increase in noise after ballasting, presumably because vibrations were carried to the baseboards by the ballast at the sides of the track and underlay. I know this approach could be cost prohibitive for larger layouts, but I sourced the six sheets of 2' x 3' cork I needed for £35 including postage from Footplate of Kidderminster. Not only friendly service, but the sheet arrived quickly.
     
    Some more experienced modellers will no doubt wince at this, but in terms of tools I used a craft knife, a cheap (but true) metal ruler, a pencil, a couple of paint brushes and a wooden breadboard for cutting. I do most of the cooking in this household, so asking permission isn't an issue! I bought a big bottle of PVA from a car boot sale for a quid and I used baby wipes and kitchen roll to keep things tidy.
     

     
    I took a few moments to see how well the cork sheet fitted the baseboards, double checking my rough plans and marking out the edges of the cork sheet onto the boards.
     

     
    I then liberally applied PVA with a brush, making sure the edges of the cork sheet would be glued down from the marking out I did previously. An early lesson here was to stop using a cheap disposable brush as it quickly started losing its hairs. I spent good time making sure the cork was properly in position and flat while it bonded. If and when I do this again, I will have a pile of my heaviest books to hand to hold the cork sheet down.
     

     

     
    It would have been neater to use a single sheet of cork sheet across the join at the middle of the boards, but I measured the remaining uncovered areas and cut the cork sheet into four 2' by approximately 1' pieces to fit. A square set would have been useful here.
     

     
    Not exactly the most taxing or rewarding of tasks, but it's a necessary job completed.
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