Bluemonkey presents....

Permanent Way Brake before finished. Before; and after 'weathering' and washes applied; 1 Planker done; and the bolster wagons with bolsters added, weight added and the method of attaching the pair chosen. I have decided to use the kit's close coupling as designed. It works well so why redesign the wheel? Oh I did exchange the plastic bolster for metal replacements to ensure they are robust. Love the common paper staple it is so useful. These will now receive a similar weathering dry brush and dirty wash before adding rust to the working part of the bolster.

Thanks @Mikkel, me too should be quite nice to see something completely finished. I am easily distracted onto another project. Chippenham as a layout is ok I have just about enough space but it is in the loft and the access when the ladder is down blocks the main thoroughfare of the hallway and I feel guilty about making this difficult to pass as it is in much use throughout the day. I was hoping to have a loft conversation so the roof space would become a nice place to sit and relax watching the trains run by, or model and even a home office but the men that know better than myself say stairs positioned where this would make all my wishes happen is not possible. So once more the project is on hold whist I try to find another solution or shift my mindset to having a layout not often visited/run. Been a day of transfers! And a little surgery prior. I decided to remove some plate detail that does not appear on western solebars and also makes life a little easier for applying tiny transfers. The permanent way brake, 1 planker and the Mites have been dressed. These are to dry overnight before a wash and dry brush to match the rest. The close ups seem to make some of the number look uneven but whether this is an optical illusion or not to the naked eye they seem fine, so phew.

Thanks Chris. I am sure it will grow on me just not exactly what I had in mind although when put with the Signal opens fits in nicely. Thank you again for the model, I may just have to make another purchase of one for the Swindon Branch, they appear to be getting jealous of all the attention Reading are getting! 😂

The Mite twins received the wood texture effect. This takes a long time but is very easy and offers a decent finish I think. Base colours applied using Ammo Old Wood as the base and then picking out a few planks with Ammo Light Wood and Ammo Faded Sinai Grey. This is followed with a wash of Citadel Agrax Earthsade and a tidy up of the freight grey parts This is followed by a wash of Citadel Nuln Oil and dry brushed with Ammo Faded Sinai Grey and Ammo Gun Metal Finished off with a few more coats and puddles of Citadel Nuln Oil. Takes a few hours as each stage of painting needs to dry quite well before applying the next unless you run the risk of dragging the previous coat, being acrylics. The later stages can be added to as much as you like to get the desired effect. Normally I dry brush a further coat of Faded Sinai Grey and sometimes (as with the Signal Dept opens) add some highlights with various browns and further wash coats applied to blend.

Well the CC7 has received it's final wash. Not sure I am completely happy with what I have done and somehow feel it lets the model down. I was aiming for a very light coat of 'weathered' paint work but seem to have found a grubby tone. Anyway too late now. flat varnish to be applied tomorrow.

Thank you, very pleased with everything. Outstanding job on both the CC2 and CC7 by you both, thank you.

@chuffinghell and @MrWolf I'll blink first. Transfers applied and ready for a light dirty wash and a little dry brush weathering. Gone with the Reading Division to match the open T series. The permanent way brake will also receive this allocation. The breakdown train will be allocated to Swindon Factory and there could be room for an engineering train to! Mean while the Cambrian bolsters are in the making. The intention are to run these as Great western mites. I have replaced the moulded buffers to GWR patterned buffers but that's about it from the kit. Not one for the purists but once fully painted, loaded and in situ probably will not really notice. There is a under slung board and peg type attachment coupling so run as a joined pair, still deciding on using this or to rig it so the load maintains coupling or even to hollow out the block coupling to add magnets. The debate is still raging in my head. This kit went together really nicely, thoroughly enjoyed knocking this one up.

First class and very tempting. The modified version really does stand out against the initial prototype.

Whilst trying to find various things on the interweb I have come across a number of modellers talking about pre-shading using an airbrush. Mainly on military models but I have seen a few on American railway stock. So I though I would have a go whilst I had the tanker in pieces. Here we are; Simple palette; First off a little white/highlight shading for any 'over spill'. It seems you need to be very careful not to use too much colour and trigger control for paint and air is essential. Best to practice off model prior to blasting. Next up is the shading. I chose black rather than a dark green or a grey. Finally another all over coat of the base colour, green. This is very lightly applied to soften the shading colours and to reaffirm the actual tank colour. Once the transfers are applied and the tanker is put back together dry brushing weather to blend the transfers with the tank colour and to soften shading further. Fingers crossed it will turn out alright.

Thanks Ric, I have not yet done mine still have to research these but currently my stock is HMRS transfers and hoping i can find something in there that will work with what ever I find after chain the loads. I have to finish chaining the rectank Bofors guns for starting on those but probably will set to them all in a oner.

Having finally trimmed Billy the pufferfish's teeth/beak and with the imminent arrival of the CC7 transfers set from @railtec-models I thought I better get things finished up and ready. It struck me that the CC2 (from @chuffinghell and @MrWolf 'ChuffingWolf Design and Build Team) had been completely weathered and finished and I had the same planned for the CC7 so the engineering wagons and brakes should also see the same treatment to ensure a little consistency at least. My usual practice is to complete wagons with the planned weathering to take place some time in the future. certain wagons though require this as part of the build. Last night, after closing the door on the bench I had it in the back of my mind I had over done the weathering but refrained to look or do anything more until the morning. I think they are OK. First up, one of the 'single bolster' wagon (the other is still awaiting it's number allocation and may be part of general stock) now a 1 planker, carrying an early number so happy with the beaten well used appearance Next the T Diagram engineer wagons again from the same brass kit range. I could ot find an exact diagram to fit these as they seem to be a mix of the T3, T9 and T10 but the strapping suggest T5, lets just call them the Falcon Engineering Jumble. I altered the brake rigging of one to represent the Thomas Brake pictured in GWR Goods Wagons - Tourret and Co. this is a T3 wagon numbers 14438 and 144328 are from the same source but T9 and T10, respectively. Finally number 14425 is a number chosen from the number range as I could not find another pictorial example at the time. The transfers are from HMRS, these are certainly not as fine or sharp as Railtech transfers and you can see how they subtlety differ in clarity, depending on the print run I guess. these are allocated to Reading as these were the only pictorial examples I could find. I also have read that signal engineering 2 planker wagons had return to reading the text suggesting this was the only allocation, again from Tourret. The CC7 is up next, patiently waiting it's numbering turn. This I kind of progressed a little too far. I forgot about varnishing and have applied the glazing so I have a little faffing to do at a later time. Roof lightly weather and finish, not attached. At least I did not forget that bit. Wagon finished in base awaiting dressing and weather on top. And finally the brakes. First is the ballast plough. This had already been finished but I had not (as normal practice) applied any weathering so thought best max the group especially whilst I have the paints out. And the permanent way brake. Again this is mid finishing process. The roof is not attached but is finished. The wagon body is waiting a set of details to be researched and applied then weathered in the same vain as above. Of course the long awaited sleep wagons still need finishing off my chaining the loads and applying transfers, then I suppose a light whizz with weather.

Tortoise and Hare.

With the CC7 and P Way brake nearing completion and the disappointment of the single bolsters brass kits I could not help myself and grabbed one these is bodge up to a pair of mites using the metal bolsters that were previously destined for the now single plankers. and a return to plastic kit making as well. See if I can get these completed before the next project which is looknig.

You have seen how slow I am modelling so in my case no worries, it is you and Rob that are having to be patient.

Airbrush Wednesday. Finally got brave enough to fight the airbrush again. That green really is not that bright to the naked eye! Here we are base grey for both the AA6 and CC7. Both should be ready for transfers by the weekend. I can finally put all the seperate parts of the AA6 together and the CC7 can now accept it's glazing ready for over washes. This green is closure to the Bachmann Lee Green tanker green than what appears to be a Fungus the Bogie Man green. This is the base colour for the acid tanker. I think transfers first then weathering and aging to follow but want to think about how best to attack it first and be able to visualise how I am going about it and end product. I have photographs of the tanker in Bristol Harbour so will base my though process on this.

I think I have got away with it again. I too am heavy on the paint especially white gloss, we will have to sit in the heavy hand corner together. This why I have started using white primer instead and seems to help (Halfords white pray primer). This is applied on top of the grey primer from the same source. I feel it covers better and has aa better finish than just using straight white primer. Not sure why this would be though.

Having taken the day off to to relax and finish the airbrushing of the CC7, P. brake and Sulphuric Acid tanker I also now had reworking of the roof to do. Well no plan survives first contact and this one didn't even make the initial skirmish. Greenhouses have run wild! These took the morning recycle run for the waste and major prune and clean of the aquaria put pay to the afternoon. How ever this did mean that any attempt to rework the mess I made of the P brake roof would be staggered. In between jobs whilst catching breathe I sanded the paint back to remove all the marking, bubbling and cracking. This also had the benefit of removing the appearance of the ridges and the bump on one of the end rain strips. Primed and tidying up cuttings. First coat of white and off to the recycling centre. Second coat and lunch. Now completely dry (I'm using white primer) I remembered I had not filled to small gaps where the rain strips attached, ! This will be filled tonight and a final (hopefully) coat of white in the morning. I feel this has worked very well to gain a better and smoother finish, so every cloud and all that. the ridges are much less as well now. Will have airbrush attack the wagons in the week. All the paint jobs should be completed, dry and hardened (especially with the weather) ready for for the coming CC7 transfers. Having been so impressed with the detail and outstanding quality of the CC2 and CC7 wagons from @chuffinghell I have asked if a special wagon could be considered and designed for myself. Part of the my on going WWII collection.

They say, "Some people never learn from their mistakes" Here's a prime example! Trying to do too much too quickly. Didn't leave enough time between coats of white and balls it up. Instead of completing the job faster it means I have to sand back and reapply base primer then on with the layers.

Roof ready for priming/painting. Not sure how those etched ribs are going fair when painting, hopefully they will disappear. At it happens the cross foot brace on my kneeling stool is a decent former for the arc of the roof. I have used the rain strips as provided and soldered which have worked quite well, rather than my usual method of glued plastic strip.

Thinking about it, it will still be possible to solder the roof as the ends could be tinned as well as the roof line (internally) just have to be more carefully with the iron tip and the primer. We'll see.

Foolishly I was in too much of a hurry to get the primer on and didn't attach the roof. With the decision made to now have to glue in place clear windows it will be. Honestly some people! 😉

Brake detail is much easier to see now primed. Handrails much better in wire than flat etc. Step boards added and primed, thought I was there but forgot me buffers! I really like this kit and has some lovely details included, such as the lamp irons and rivet detail also included are some GWR works plates. These will be painted separately and then added to the sole bar. What does strike me as odd or even disappointing is the lack of window ledges for the glass windows. The boarded one has this included but I have had to use some 'waste' brass fret to fabricate them and a real faff to solder these on. I would think it would be easy to included the on the etch as a 90 degree bend (much like the lamp irons). A detail probably more noticeable if not on the model than if on but something that surely could have been included with ease. Now for the roof. This has been half etched in order to aid the shaping of the roof. Will have ago with this but expecting to swap out of a flat piece of brass as the etch lines will show underneath and not sure this will appear right. Time to hit the books again.

Only managed the replacement hand rails for the sides last night. Fiddly to get them in position and shaped especially as a single piece of wire but got there in the end. I figured that if I used numerous lengths for each sequence then I would be running the risk of damage when in service. Decided to remove the door hand rails and replace as well as adding the central handrail for the stable door, a job for later on. I note the author of the instructions and provider of the pictures has also replaced these.

I do like using brass and certainly the end result but I can not help the itch to get back to some pre-printed wagons.

Next up the wheel arrangements. The come is effectively in two sections; the wagon body and the W-irons. With the sole-bar shaped and attached to the body the wheel arrangement was the next focus. Now I am building completely as per kit instructions (not knowing any different) but I think if I was to make another (for myself) I would leave some of the brake gearing off. Each unit can be compensated but make sure you know which or both prior to starting on the detailing. As if you attach the sand pipes, as per instructional picture, then you need to ensure the slop in the middle of the units is the correct way around to locate the flats through the body in order to create the lever in the middle. The brake shoes are instructed to be folded and laminated but I found mine to have the detail the wrong way round to fold and expose so end up removing one shoe and soldering it separately. Bit fiddly but the yokes are accepted through the hole in the shoes without drilling out. To achieve this I removed as much of the etch from the fret, allowing for additional lengths if required. I then threaded this through the first brake show that has already been attached to the unit and the single removed shoe. With locking tweezers the shoes are held together and fixed with a small amount of solder. This in turns also attaches and fixes the yoke mechanism without losing any details or gumming up through excessive solder. Brake safety straps are the last to add along with the white metal castings. Once these are cleaned up and painted they will be attached to the body and the brake linked (also included in the kit) will be attached to the two units and the floor. I have the foot board to fold up and attached to those aerial type hangers in picture one (these also need folding prior to attaching the boards) and handrails. Again the kit provides small clamps etched into the vertical strapping to locate the handrail wire, this I think is a brilliant little touch. Then to look at the roof and whether this is to be soldered or glued, replaced or used. The conclusion of this will determine how the windows are to be glazed, either clear or using my dodge.